About jumper placement, my ECS KA3-MVP had terrible jumper placement. If I had my audio card installed, I had to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to get to it. Wish I would've thought of this back then.

wow, this makes my biostar feel very good :D

this deserves an award, its about time you can buy these as i have broke 2 i made.

:toast:

Very good idea! I more than likely will be investing in one of those. :)

panchomani mean sure, sometimes my board doesn't recover from somethings that like atrociously horrible, but seriously, for most people, how long does it take to open their case panels with thumb screws and move a jumper?

thats why i was saying, this thing makes it sound like people have to reset the cmos 10 times a day..

oh and btw, move the jumper, it does a better job then taking out the battery.

Depends on where the jumper is at and how much crap is in the way. Id rather flip a switch on the back of my computer than dig inside my case 300+ times while going OC crazy.

Pity so many boards these days have a simple 2 pin CMOS clear....

oh well, a handy tool nonetheless :)

www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g4/c153/s318/list/p1/Electronics-Switches-Military_Switches-Page1.html

Use one of these two throw switches and wire it up yourself.... very easy and looks a hell of a lot better. Maybe it's just me but I'd rather try to build most of my shit myself.

Someone shouldve thought about this several years ago..

MusselsPity so many boards these days have a simple 2 pin CMOS clear....

oh well, a handy tool nonetheless :)

It works in those too. Center pin is always connected it just switches the side one. So the connected side is hanging in the air while the other 2 are connected to the clear CMOS.

edit: doh, it's already designed for 2 pin use too :D Might just be that you have to connect the white and yellow wires and not the red/white part if you want the normal to be normal and not clear position. (or just change the wire positions, very easy)


In fact this would be more useful to those 2pin mobos like mine, as there is no jumper to begin with and shorting it with something metal is ghetto :) Although I didn't have any use for clearing CMOS is my previous motherboard and this one knows how to start after unsuccessful OC too. And for bios update load optimized defaults works fine.

OMG! I can belive howsimple is this artifact, the ugly Clear C-MOS had been there like forever, why no boy ever came with this idea!

I want one, and stop droping the jumper when y try to put it back so i wont be shacking my case upside down to bring it down.

Wile EYou do not have to have more exhaust power than intake power. Both methods have their pros and cons.

Assuming the other method is having more intake or equal amounts of both, you are wrong.
There is no pro to having more air coming into the case, heating up and having no place to go. There is also no pro to having just as much air coming into the case as getting out, because cold air will get sucked into the case from any tiny spec of a hole.
Thus, the only method worthy is to have more exhaust than intake. Hopefully now you understand ;)

WeerThus, the only method worthy is to have more exhaust than intake. Hopefully now you understand ;)

That method causes excessive dust build up, and ruins airFLOW.

A properly setup case with airflow, does not suffer dust problems and gets the air in and out, passing over the needed areas and leaving.

Your method could well suck air in from the sides, ruin the flow and have it totally bypass hot components in the case.

WeerAssuming the other method is having more intake or equal amounts of both, you are wrong.
There is no pro to having more air coming into the case, heating up and having no place to go. There is also no pro to having just as much air coming into the case as getting out, because cold air will get sucked into the case from any tiny spec of a hole.
Thus, the only method worthy is to have more exhaust than intake. Hopefully now you understand ;)

lol. I find it amusing that you think you have the answer to this locked up. Then tell me, why, in my Stacker 830, did having more intake air coming in than leaving, did I get better temps on my chipsets and gfx cards (to the order of 2-3C under load), all at the same ambient temperature?

All those little holes that can let air enter in a negative pressure case, can also let air exit in a positive pressure case. ;)

Using negative pressure is by no means the best for everyone in all situations. Both have pros and cons, and both methods vary depending upon your case setup. There have been many threads about this around here comparing both methods. Neither is better in all situations.

Seriously, start doing research on things before you come into threads trying to state claims as fact.

WeerAssuming the other method is having more intake or equal amounts of both, you are wrong.
There is no pro to having more air coming into the case, heating up and having no place to go. There is also no pro to having just as much air coming into the case as getting out, because cold air will get sucked into the case from any tiny spec of a hole.
Thus, the only method worthy is to have more exhaust than intake. Hopefully now you understand ;)

i beg to differ. you get bad airflow because the exhaust fans have to create a crappy vaccumm, and the fans in the back of your case have to suck in air from the front of your case.. this causes dust buildup and horrible horrible airflow. its better to have a balanced flow, where the case is plentiful of air from the intake fans, which throw cool air on the hot components, and the exhaust fans blow out the hot air. if you must pick one, pick intake, because atleast you'll have cool air thats filling the case and cooling the components, the hot air will escape through the vents automatically.

probably fabricate one for way less.

just to put my 2p, into the exhaust/intake discussion. On my last case, I had 2x120mm intakes and 1x120mm exhaust. I got loads of dust was damn annoying. On this case, I have 2x120mm intake on 6v, and one 140mm intake on 12v, then 2x140mm exhausts on 12v, and a 120mm exhaust on 12v. (from what I worked out, I have more air pulling out than in), and I get virtually no dust now! :D
I think, case design, fan design, fan location, hardware location plays an important role, but probably the best method is to experiment, and see whats best for you.
Oh yeah, and with my gfx card in my new case and fan setup, gave me a 5-10*C drop in GPU temps :rockout:

it is cool , but almost new mobo's now have reset switch

hayder.masterit is cool , but almost new mobo's now have reset switch

Just the top of the spec ones. Not in any mainstream or cheap boards.

OnBoardJust the top of the spec ones. Not in any mainstream or cheap boards.

And its still on the motherboard where you have to take the side panel off anyway. This switch makes it so that you dont have to do that.