Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

[Dr. Spankenstein]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

[domy85]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

Oh it changed to lead-free, ok makes sense then.

[asb2106]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

Every time I take apart my system, I always just rinse the tubes and blocks under warm/hot water. I use Fesser View addidtive with distilled water, and Ive never had build up or milky water.

[Dr. Spankenstein]

I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round!

Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?

[asb2106]

I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round!

Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?

I use 8 ounces of the additive and fill the rest with distilled. Its just a corrosive blocker and adds color. Next go around I am gonna do the large bottle of blood red. Use only it and no water, only for the color though. The stuff I use is great, it has worked great for me personally and all the systems I have done water in for the last 2 years

[domy85]

How about i use some thermaltake coolant i have left to flush it through a few times and do you just pour it through or how would you force presure through it?

[EastCoasthandle]

What do you guys thing of this finding (http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.techzonept.com%2Fshow thread.php%3Ft%3D262752&langpair=pt%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8) with that Thermochill Radiator?

[Wile E]

What do you guys thing of this finding (http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.techzonept.com%2Fshow thread.php%3Ft%3D262752&langpair=pt%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8) with that Thermochill Radiator?

Doesn't bother me. They still work very well. Besides, that's a really tiny channel. Water chooses the path of least resistance. I somehow think that little channel doesn't receive much in the ways of water flow.

[DanishDevil]

I think the resistance of going through there will be less than looping back and forth through the radiator...

fit says it's gotta be a hoax :D

[Wile E]

Nah, I actually think that little channel would be more restrictive, otherwise the water would never get cooled, as it would just bypass the core of the rad.

[EastCoasthandle]

It's hard for me to make any opinion on it at this time. I would have liked to view more photos from more angles. Also, some concrete proof that the opening does in fact start/stop at the opening. Since it's already cut open mind as well cut the top off to see if there is a bevel that leads from open open neck to the other.

This finding, if true doesn't change the fact that this rad cools better then my "other" rad(s) that I've tried. What I would like to know if in any way that little beveled open can attribute to flow rates.

[asb2106]

I find that funny, I always joked with my friends that they had a tube across the enter/exit, because the flow rates were so much better.

I think this is true, but I doubt I can talk my buddy into cutting up his rad

[intel igent]

so if you closed that tube off imagine how much better it would cool due to ALL of the water passing through the core VS some bypassing the core and going directly to the exit ;)

[EastCoasthandle]

And here I thought that the wider neck with wider barbs with a larger filler was part of the reason for better flow rates. I've always wondered why others like HW Labs and Swiftech didn't widen the openings.

[DaMulta]

Bad bad bad leak night....

First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....

Then after I finally fixed that one my mase4 is leaking like crazy down the video card. I tried some new tubing from Lowe's to see if it was easier to work with than my nylon. Lets just say the stuff they sell at frozen CPU and danger den is different. I got that leak fixed a little faster, but it doesn't stop the fact that my video card is now or was covered in liquid.

Now I am going to let this thing test run till tomorrow after noon, because I had to use tap water to fill in the gap of all the liquid I lost during this whole thing.'


My 8800GT was cleaned with half a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and is now setting in front of a fan. No more red was coming out after pouring it over it so I'm sure that it is all out.'



FUN STUFF

[aspire]

How in the heck did you manage a leak that bad?

[DaMulta]

The motherboard chipset is kind of hard to get to inside of the case.

The mase4 I normaly do not have to use faseners on, so when the leak started it really started.

[intel igent]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

i dont soak my stuff for very long, in the CLR maybe 1/2hr. then i flush with hot water, vinegar (not soak), hot water. i run the hot water through it untill im satisfied its clean.

i dont reccomend soaking in anything other than water for extended periods of time

:toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

Bad bad bad leak night....

First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....

Then after I finally fixed that one my mase4 is leaking like crazy down the video card. I tried some new tubing from Lowe's to see if it was easier to work with than my nylon. Lets just say the stuff they sell at frozen CPU and danger den is different. I got that leak fixed a little faster, but it doesn't stop the fact that my video card is now or was covered in liquid.

Now I am going to let this thing test run till tomorrow after noon, because I had to use tap water to fill in the gap of all the liquid I lost during this whole thing.'


My 8800GT was cleaned with half a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and is now setting in front of a fan. No more red was coming out after pouring it over it so I'm sure that it is all out.'



FUN STUFF

Use your wife's/GF hair dryer and make sure you evaporate any possible water from every corner of the video card and the MB before you turn it on. Water has a tendency to get under caps, mosfets and the ZIFF socket, etc (hmm do they still use the word ZIFF)

[DaMulta]

I sit it in front of a fan for 15 hours or so....The system is back up, just like it was.

[SirKeldon]

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=57315) and mainly here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=57773). I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always :P

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-
- 1/2 liter of Feser Cooling Liquid Blue and 1 liter Acid Green coloured (thinking in test this last one)

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop1.jpg

Loop 2:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop2.jpg

In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

Thank you in advance! :toast:

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now ;)

ps(2): Martin's Flow Estimator recommended me 1.15-1.31GPM with this setup so i think i'm fine ...

[EastCoasthandle]

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=57315) and mainly here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=57773). I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always :P

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop1.jpg

Loop 2:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop2.jpg

In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

Thank you in advance! :toast:

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now ;)

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be. Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal). This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better. If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

[SirKeldon]

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer and creates more fan noise as well as draws more current. Temps only improved by roughly 1C. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

All the hard job i did for just 1º-2ºC? damn it! :laugh: anyway, for now i'm just cooling the CPU but i'm thinking in increase the loop within a few months, also the pump, i'm not worried about noises or current, i tested the airflow and it's good to each rad ... i'm decided to use the GTS120, just for a question of proudness you know, it's my very first mod ... but as i told in another posts, if the performance it's decreased cause the flow (1ºC better it's still increase and should be better on long load time periods) i'll remove the GTS120, but till that moment, that rad it's gonna be included.

Ty anyway mate! :toast:

ps: also it would be SOOOOO hard to me to stick a 120.3 rad on my mid-tower case :laugh:

[asb2106]

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be. Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal). This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better. If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?

I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.

[EastCoasthandle]

well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?

I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.

Serial loop or Parallel loop? Do you have a pic you can share?

[asb2106]

Serial or Parallel?

one continous loop,

Starts at the pump, then to the 320, then the 220, then the 2 video cards, then the proc, then the rez.

Im thinking of re-doing it with a better layout and adding another pump to the mix and breaking apart the radz. Im not to happy with the temps on my proc, dont get me wrong, they are not horrible, just not ideal.

33 idle, 48 load. Sometimes the cores can get into the 60s with a full load on the GPUs also.

Its time I break apart the system anyways, my videocards are voltmodded now and dumping more heat in the mix than before. So its time to re-do the water. Ive been thinkin of adding TEC for the proc.

[EastCoasthandle]

one continous loop,

Starts at the pump, then to the 320, then the 220, then the 2 video cards, then the proc, then the rez.

Im thinking of re-doing it with a better layout and adding another pump to the mix and breaking apart the radz. Im not to happy with the temps on my proc, dont get me wrong, they are not horrible, just not ideal.

33 idle, 48 load. Sometimes the cores can get into the 60s with a full load on the GPUs also.

Its time I break apart the system anyways, my videocards are voltmodded now and dumping more heat in the mix than before. So its time to re-do the water. Ive been thinkin of adding TEC for the proc.

I would add another pump for 2 rads of those sizes thus creating 2 loops. You should notice reduced temps by doing so. Most 2/3 fan rads setups need their own pump from what I've seen so far.

[asb2106]

I would add another pump for 2 rads of those sizes thus creating 2 loops. You should notice reduced temps by doing so. Most 2/3 fan rads setups need their own pump from what I've seen so far.

Thanks for the tip!

my pump is a mcp355 with a petra top, the thing has some crazy head! It has been very good to me, however, I still plan to add a pump and make 2 seperate loops

[EastCoasthandle]

Thanks for the tip!

my pump is a mcp355 with a petra top, the thing has some crazy head! It has been very good to me, however, I still plan to add a pump and make 2 seperate loops

No problem just use the 220 for the CPU and the 320 for the 2 video cards and you should be good to go. Post your results when you finally get it done!

[SirKeldon]

After talking with fitseries3 a bit more, he's telling to me (as the shop guy did) that it's best to have the bigger flow on my block ... so the 1st loop will be the best yet, running rad back to back.

Do you agree with my first intuition, fit's and shop guy recommendation?

I don't want to be draining and filling testing and/or searching my best setup now, since both tasks are a pain in the ass ... i prefer just to be sure with your advice and mount it and leave it for a few months.

[Fitseries3]

Pump > Cpu > Rad > Rad > Res > V
^--------------------------------

[EastCoasthandle]

After talking with fitseries3 a bit more, he's telling to me (as the shop guy did) that it's best to have the bigger flow on my block ... so the 1st loop will be the best yet, running rad back to back.

Do you agree with my first intuition, fit's and shop guy recommendation?

What is bigger flow on my block? In any case I stand by what I posted earlier. Per my own experience I found better results with a single PA 120.3 then I did with a 2 fan and single fan rad.

[Fitseries3]

he's only cooling the CPU for now.

[EastCoasthandle]

Doesn't matter...besides it's counterintuitive to use 2 separate rads for just 1 cpu.

[SirKeldon]

I wanted to mean the highest pressured flow point, which it's just the pump discharge to something, since i'm just w/c my cpu, the "bigger flow" it's suposed to be on pump->cpu to sure the good circulation through the block ... and i repeat, there's simply no room for a 120.3 rad, i have to "resign" with the stuff i have, ty all! :toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

I wanted to mean the highest pressured flow point, which it's just the pump discharge to something, since i'm just w/c my cpu, the "bigger flow" it's suposed to be on pump->cpu to sure the good circulation through the block ... and i repeat, there's simply no room for a 120.3 rad, i have to "resign" with the stuff i have, ty all! :toast:

OK, I see thanks for the additional information and good luck with your project, the decision is ultimately yours :toast:

[SirKeldon]

OK, I see thanks for the additional information and good luck with your project, the decision is ultimately yours :toast:

NP dude, i know i should mount the rad vertical to achieve better temps and also that i'd need a better pump to sure good flow around the loop, but actually can't be done, no more budget at the moment.

Fitseries3 told me also in first instance to use just the MCR-220 rad cause the GTS120 hadn't enough room to blow all the hot air outta the case, after the modding now it has ... so it should work at maybe 50%-75% of efficiency as a exchanger ... the only thing i'm affraid (but also i think it's almost impossible) it's to get worse temps with MCR-220 + GTS120 back-to-back than just with MCR-220 alone just for a flow question cause the GTS120 it's not that big to bleed ... even it's a 1º-2ºC win with both, i think it's the best chance i can take right now since i'm just watercooling my cpu.

And if i'm wrong please tell me why ... i mean, i want to understand this as a thermodynamics thing, benefits or drawbacks of using the two rads back to back, how it's the flow stopped or how it affects to the total results of the CPU cooling.

I'll be very appreciated, ty :toast:

[SirKeldon]

BUMP, any more ideas? i'm gonna mount the loop tomorrow and i'll be happy with a lil more of advice =)

[EastCoasthandle]

Sorry about that, I didn't get your posts/PM until today.

[SirKeldon]

Well, past friday at least i installed all the stuff, finally the loop it's designed as my first idea: res->pump->block->MCR-220->GTS-120->res

In all the webs i read, switching from a simple 120 radiator to a "normal" dual one (not GTX240 or TC PA 120.2) you should notice a 4-5ºC win in full tasks, but that's all ... in my case connecting the radiators back to back ... with a increase of 5ºC on ambient temp (past week we were at 19ºC, now my room it's at 24ºC) ... i still win 7-9ºC at full tasks (sometimes 10) in comparison to my previous setup (i did temp tests along the week, not just one ;)) so ... in my case, connecting radiators back to back has worked flawlessly, not a gain of just 1ºC as EastCoasthandle experience, i'm winning 3-5ºC constantly ... so i'm really happy finally

Hope this helps to anyone too :) :toast:

ps: the idle temps are almost the same (maybe 1ºC better) than previous setup ... but since my ambient temp has upraised 5ºC in the last week i think it's pretty normal ... i'll gotta wait till next fall-winter to see my low 20's in idle =)

[EastCoasthandle]

Please post your before and after idle and load screen shot temps. Also provide your ambient temps during the observation. Your post is a bit vague.

[SirKeldon]

Unfortunately i don't have screenshots of the temps on the new setup but i'll tell you my results:

GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 10 hours Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 19-20ºC -> MB Temp: 25ºC -> max temps on core's 56/46ºC

MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 21-22ºC -> MB Temp: 27ºC -> max temps on core's 46/37ºC

MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 24-25ºC -> MB Temp: 30-31ºC -> max temps on core's 48/39ºC

[EastCoasthandle]

Unfortunately i don't have screenshots of the temps on the new setup but i'll tell you my results:

GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 10 hours Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 19-20ºC -> MB Temp: 25ºC -> max temps on core's 56/46ºC

MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 23-24ºC -> MB Temp: 29-30ºC -> max temps on core's 47/39ºC

What a shame, it would have been nice to have. From the look of things, you went from a single fan rad to a dual fan + single fan rads. My test was from a 3 fan rad to a 3 fan + single fan rad setup. Thanks for sharing...:toast:

[DaMulta]

East my buddy is getting the DD water box (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=252&cat=94&page=1),D5 pump
(http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=175&cat=4&page=1)TDX CPU block (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=294&cat=92&page=1), 2xMAZE5GPU (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=169&cat=67&page=1)(I tell him he needs 3 because he has three cards but he took the 3ed one out)Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=53&cat=27&page=1) and 2 GTX240 rads (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=256&cat=90&page=1)..


I told him that he might need another pump, but how should he start his run. I'm thinking res, pump, CPU, rad, video cards, rad, and back to res. I think he might need to add another pump before the video cards for one loop.

[SirKeldon]

What a shame, it would have been nice to have. From the look of things, you went from a single fan rad to a dual fan + single fan rads. My test was from a 3 fan rad to a 3 fan + single fan rad setup. Thanks for sharing...:toast:

Now i understand your lil win better, yes, my past setup was just the GTS120 ... now it's MCR-220 + GTS120, and as i see the things and reviews, it's running nearly as good as a "normal" triple 120 radiator (not GTX or PA 120.3) ... anyway, within a months i'll improve my pump too since the flow and pressure are clearly being affected.

And talking of pumps, clearly the D5 is your favourite choice, but i think it adds too much heat to the fluid with its 24W (in my setup the block it's the first element right after the pump) ... and watching the custom LC tank CyberDruid was building i saw the AlphaCool AP1510 (http://www.alphacool.com/shop/Pumps/AP1510-centrifugal-pump-12Volts--3317.html) which delivers till 6m of head pressure (19 feet) and 1500LPH (~396GPH) with a tiny power consumption of 17W ... so ... which one to choose? i'm looking for 1200LPH or more with a considerable head pressure and not too much heat added ... help me to decide ;)

:toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

East my buddy is getting the DD water box (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=252&cat=94&page=1),D5 pump
(http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=175&cat=4&page=1)TDX CPU block (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=294&cat=92&page=1), 2xMAZE5GPU (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=169&cat=67&page=1)(I tell him he needs 3 because he has three cards but he took the 3ed one out)Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=53&cat=27&page=1) and 2 GTX240 rads (http://dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=256&cat=90&page=1)..


I told him that he might need another pump, but how should he start his run. I'm thinking res, pump, CPU, rad, video cards, rad, and back to res. I think he might need to add another pump before the video cards for one loop.

I would go with a 2nd pump to be honest. From what you posted that orientation sound good if he's only using one pump.




Now i understand your lil win better, yes, my past setup was just the GTS120 ... now it's MCR-220 + GTS120, and as i see the things and reviews, it's running nearly as good as a "normal" triple 120 radiator (not GTX or PA 120.3) ... anyway, within a months i'll improve my pump too since the flow and pressure are clearly being affected.

And talking of pumps, clearly the D5 is your favourite choice, but i think it adds too much heat to the fluid with its 24W (in my setup the block it's the first element right after the pump) ... and watching the custom LC tank CyberDruid was building i saw the AlphaCool AP1510 (http://www.alphacool.com/shop/Pumps/AP1510-centrifugal-pump-12Volts--3317.html) which delivers till 6m of head pressure (19 feet) and 1500LPH (~396GPH) with a tiny power consumption of 17W ... so ... which one to choose? i'm looking for 1200LPH or more with a considerable head pressure and not too much heat added ... help me to decide ;)

:toast:

Your post is a little hard to read/understand so for the first part I cannot address. As for your pump comment, all water pumps add heat at varying degrees. As far as the AP1510 goes I read that it requires a lot more then 17 voltage to get 6m head and it's noisy. However, I have not found any reviews of this pump yet.

[SirKeldon]

I was trying to say that now i understand better your little win of 1ºC connecting rads back to back ... i just changed the order on the "better" (spanish legacy) ... and as i always say, english it's not my primary language, not even my secondary, it's the third one and i don't have any official title, i just learned it at school and then music, series and more things ... so excuse my typos ;)

I suppose those 17W are produced under 12V, as the 24W of D5, sure are measured under 12V too ... and yes, i saw about the noise level but i didn't see the levels of D5 anywhere, do you have the dbA specs?

ps: my temp's post was wrong so i'm gonna edit it, i just noticed, the ambient temp of 24-25ºC as well as the 30ºC-31ºC on the MB was today ... i just confused data, gonna fix it.

[EastCoasthandle]

Do you use core temps (http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/) or Real Temps (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2809778&postcount=1) to monitor your temps? I Know core temps should work but I am not sure about Real temps.

[SirKeldon]

RealTemp works better in new Intel's, specially Wolfdales and Yorkfields as far as i read (on XS and also in TPU) ... i always used Core Temp and since this february i'm also using CPUID Hardware Monitor which reports the same temps on cores as Core Temp does :)

[Grings]

The new fuzion is available at some uk retailers now, has anybody seen any tests yet?

[DanishDevil]

It's available at PetrasTechShop. We've got a few links over @ TechFuzion about it. There's one to a guy @ XS doing a comparison.

[SirKeldon]

DD finally ... welcome to the club! :D

[Wile E]

Little update on my setup. Still have the Fuzion, MCP-350 w/bitspower res top, and 1st gen BIX 360 on the cpu, but I added a second loop. Maze5, MCP-350, Microres, and an MCR120 on my 8800GT. Workin great so far. Loads to 39C on stock volts. Had it up to 45C on 1.42V under load.

[intel igent]

got some pix Wile E?

:toast:

[Wile E]

got some pix Wile E?

:toast:
lol. No. It's not in a case anyway. It's running on a tabletop. The mobo is attached to my Stacker 830's mobo tray tho. lol.

I'll dig up the camera and take pics if you really want. lol.

[intel igent]

i love pix of naked PC's! :laugh:

[SirKeldon]

i love pix of naked PC's! :laugh:

Pervert :laugh:

[intel igent]

Pervert :laugh:

who me? :o

[Wile E]

OK, as requested, naked pics. lol.

As you can see, the mobo tray from the Stacker actually makes a decent tech station. lol.

http://img.techpowerup.org/080511/WileESetup.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080511/WileESetup2.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080511/WileESetup3.jpg

[intel igent]

hi Wile E :)

thnx for pix!

what you doinin with the G5 case?

:toast:

[Wile E]

hi Wile E :)

thnx for pix!

what you doinin with the G5 case?

:toast:

Running my Mac G5 in it. :p lol

[EastCoasthandle]

OT: Wilie E what ever happened to that show (that pic on your desktop). What was the name of it again?

[intel igent]

Running my Mac G5 in it. :p lol

it runs? :eek: :p

be a nice case to mod.........

:toast:

[Wile E]

OT: Wilie E what ever happened to that show (that pic on your desktop). What was the name of it again?

Neon Genesis Evangelion. The original ended, but now there's a new series of movies coming out for it.

@Intel igent- Yep still runs. Got it for free, so I'll use it until the new versions of OS X won't run on it, then I'll probably throw Linux on it and use it as a server of some sort. I thought about modding it, but I have a Stacker to do that with.

[tigger]

That g5 case dont half look like a lian li v1000 apart from the bit at te front/top,i guess lian li kinda stole the design.

Nice setup tho' wile E.

[intel igent]

drip drip drip

wheres everyone?

what do you guys think about if we had a W/C case gallery?

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=796174#post796174

:toast:

[asb2106]

drip drip drip

wheres everyone?

what do you guys think about if we had a W/C case gallery?

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=796174#post796174

:toast:

I think thats a great idea!

I finally got some time to spend on my computer over the weekend, did some cable management and cleaned it up some - looking good!!

[intel igent]

guess you and me are the only ones asb :confused: i'd like to se some pix of the newly revamped rig ;)

:toast:

[SirKeldon]

D-Tek Fuzion on the way, my Enzotech top cracked at the outlet part, it's still running cause i solved it partially with teflon tape but it's not too safe, no big leak though ... just a drop every several hours or less ... but it's like a car solved with tape ... can leave you stuck in the middle of the road ... so i ordered the fuzion.

The good news is i noticed the leak one day or maybe two (i saw the res level too low) after starting and nothing failed ... cause when i checked the top of the video card was full of green but not liquid at all ... just the oily thing, also part of the block as well as the NB cooler. Luckily all my hardware is running flawless with no problems, definitely, Feser Cooling Fluid it's non-conductive cause it mixed with dust too ... and nothing happened, 10/10 for this liquid! :)

And Intel_igent, you were right, Enzotech blocks are great performers but just too weak at the top part, less than 3 months old and cracked ... it's unacceptable, but well, the Fuzion will do the work and even better cause won't restrict the pressure that much ... besides that a DFI X38-2TR + Intel C2D E8400 are also on the way, say hi to huge clocking!

I'll keep all of you informed

:toast:

[DanishDevil]

I don't wanna take my loop apart and go back to air :cry:

[SirKeldon]

Do what you want my friend, but i'll be pleased to receive both things at same time ... anyway, it's up to you, i don't want to force you =)

:toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

Here is a review of Black Ice GTX vs Feaser TFC X-Changer (http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/05/23/radiator-shootout-1/3)
My only concern for this review:
-Mounting...Was the WB for the GTX remounted to make sure that the disparity in results weren't skewed
-Pump...Would a better pump effect results
-Q6600 should have been OC to at least 3.6GHz. At 2.4GHz you are not really testing the full capabilities of the radiator. Big mistake IMO.

[DanishDevil]

Thanks for the link. I might bite the bullet and grab a triple feser rad. I'd really love to be able to review one, though.

[EastCoasthandle]

I also like their test of the Fuzion 2 (http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/05/18/dtek-fuzion-2-waterblock/3) as they add a GPU block into the test which results in a more realistic result for those of use who also use a GPU block.

[EastCoasthandle]

D-Tek Fuzion on the way, my Enzotech top cracked at the outlet part, it's still running cause i solved it partially with teflon tape but it's not too safe, no big leak though ... just a drop every several hours or less ... but it's like a car solved with tape ... can leave you stuck in the middle of the road ... so i ordered the fuzion.

The good news is i noticed the leak one day or maybe two (i saw the res level too low) after starting and nothing failed ... cause when i checked the top of the video card was full of green but not liquid at all ... just the oily thing, also part of the block as well as the NB cooler. Luckily all my hardware is running flawless with no problems, definitely, Feser Cooling Fluid it's non-conductive cause it mixed with dust too ... and nothing happened, 10/10 for this liquid! :)

And Intel_igent, you were right, Enzotech blocks are great performers but just too weak at the top part, less than 3 months old and cracked ... it's unacceptable, but well, the Fuzion will do the work and even better cause won't restrict the pressure that much ... besides that a DFI X38-2TR + Intel C2D E8400 are also on the way, say hi to huge clocking!

I'll keep all of you informed

:toast:

Wow, sorry to read about that. You should take it back for a replacement and either sell it here or on ebay.

[SirKeldon]

Yeah, i'll try to do that, it's suposed to be under warranty so i should get a replacement, i'll see what i can do. Thank you for the support.

Btw, thanks for the link of the review, really impressive the new Feser radiators, almost as good as TC. Interesting =)

[intel igent]

another enzo bites the dust :shadedshu

glad to hear your hardware didn't get damaged SirKeldon

did you get it sorted out or are you still waiting?

[Cold Storm]

All right, got a question.... Waterblock for a 9800gx2???

[Wile E]

DangerDen has one.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=336&cat=48&page=1

[DOM]

All right, got a question.... Waterblock for a 9800gx2???

http://www.evga.com/articles/406.asp

[Wile E]

http://www.evga.com/articles/406.asp

From what I have heard, the EVGA block is made by DangerDen.

[SirKeldon]

another enzo bites the dust :shadedshu

glad to hear your hardware didn't get damaged SirKeldon

did you get it sorted out or are you still waiting?

intel_igent, i'm still waiting for my new D-Tek Fuzion (DanishDevil sold it to me cause he's getting the v2, thanks zack!) ... should be here tomorrow or thursday, at least, the teflon tape it's doing a good job, i just lost about 2-3mm of liquid (microres) in almost five days on 24/7. And still all hardware is 100% functional though i'm running it with some paper towels.

When the Fuzion arrives, i'll took apart the Enzotech and i'll go to the store, these last days they seem so lazy even for picking up the phone, i call but nobody answers ... grrrrr ... and i don't know what i'll do cause for getting my money back time is over ... and i won't risk again with this specific model of Enzotech ... and neither i'd sell it, i don't want to fuck another circuits neither ... so i don't know if i'll ask for a new Enzo cause really i don't want it.

Any suggestions? Maybe as a decorative object? :laugh:

Thanks for the support! :toast:

[Cold Storm]

Thanks Wile E. and Dom.. Now I just have to see if I want to keep this Max board, or go back to the Striker II board... I know I'm keeping the 9800gx2!

[DOM]

From what I have heard, the EVGA block is made by DangerDen.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html

they dont look to much the same but 200-250 :wtf: kind of hurts

[Cold Storm]

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html

they dont look to much the same but 200-250 :wtf: kind of hurts

Oh yeah it does! but, I guess its because I spent $650 on the card it self! The 3870x2's where around $150, I believe.... So I can see it being that much... Grr the price for water these days!

[Wile E]

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html

they dont look to much the same but 200-250 :wtf: kind of hurts

I have no way of confirming. it's just something I saw mentioned on OCN. Don't actually know if it's anywhere near true or not.

And nice find, I forgot about EK for a minute. That's the one I would go for, personally.

[Cold Storm]

I can see the pricing being that much... But, I am for the EK...I just have to start buying it piece by piece...

[intel igent]

@ SirKeldon : they should at LEAST give you a replacement block which you can then sell to re-coup your money ;)

IIRC EK, DangerDen, EvGA, Aquacomputer?? and Koolance have blox for the GX2's

:toast:

[DOM]

Im thinking of geting a Swiftech MCR320-QP and Swiftech MCR220-QP and a 2nd Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump

for my loop im not happy with my cpu temps :p

so would it be better to have two loops or just run them in one loop

CPU, GPU, NB, SB are the things im cooling

so should I just use the MCR320 for the CPU and MCR220 to cool the GPU, NB & SB ?

I would get ThermoChill but its $160 more over the Swiftech :(

Cuz right now im running one loop with a PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360 :o

SO will it be an upgrade ?

[intel igent]

i'd go two loops

CPU on the 220, GPU/NB/SB on the 320

[DOM]

:confused: why the 220 on the CPU ?

GPU only tops 45c on fur and CPU on prime on small fft

Im looking at lowering the CPU load temps also for beching ;)

thats why I wanted to use the 320 for the CPU cuz im thinking of taking out the SB off of water I just run it lowest volts setting lol

but the NB is at 1.9v for benching and should be getting a new card to play with going to volt mod it but still waitting :(

So it might just be CPU NB GPU to Cool and Im trying to get more out of the CPU cuz 480FSB is the most I can get out of it :( idk if its cuz of temps or what cuz NB was 1.65v but after volt mod most is 1.9v and only got 40 more MHZ :cry:

[intel igent]

difference between 220/320 for CPU only would be minimal, both temp + OC

220 will handle CPU easily

320 for the "hot" parts ;)

[DOM]

the cpu is the hot one :P the CPU Temp gets to 51c at 75F room temp at 70F CPU at 48-50 :confused:

while the GPU droped 5C on load so do you think I should use the 320 on the GPU still :p

[intel igent]

GPU/NB/SB will give off more heat than CPU only IIRC

[DOM]

well for the NB temp idk whats it at :p but then SB might just go back to air cuz even uping the volts It doesnt help the OC :(

plus im thinking about it might just geting the 220 and keep the PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360

[Cold Storm]

Throw up the PC Probe on the Asus board and you'll be all set on where your temps are right!

[DOM]

Throw up the PC Probe on the Asus board and you'll be all set on where your temps are right!

it only reads the CPU temp and mobo temp what ever that is :p

and it doesnt work any more mobo is unknow idk what happened but it still works lol

[Cold Storm]

Do you have the latest drivers for the board? Have device manager find it and fix it for ya.. PC Probe, even if its not II, should still have the NB readings... I know RM's does and he's working on a 965 chipset

[DOM]

Asus P5W DH Deluxe is 975

[Cold Storm]

oops.. my mistake..So, your is older... but here is the most recent update (http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us) for you... I hope its the right motherboard... to many P5b's! lol

[DOM]

its newer but it doesnt have NB temps and none of the asus pc or ai suite work any more :ohwell:

[intel igent]

have you tried everest?

[Cold Storm]

its newer but it doesnt have NB temps and none of the asus pc or ai suite work any more :ohwell:


that is some strange stuff! and Everest should allow you to check also.. Even the free version.

[DOM]

lol it doesnt have a NB sensor only CPU and MB and I use Everest it doent have NB temps

[EastCoasthandle]

Interesting results when the PA120 challenges the 480GTX (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=190732)

[EastCoasthandle]

Here is a full review of the D-Tek Fuzion V1 vs V2 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=187744)

[Wile E]

Interesting results when the PA120 challenges the 480GTX (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=190732)

It doesn't seem to be challenging it to me. It dissipates almost twice as much heat with Ultra High speed fans. It's ahead of the PA with fan speeds 1350rpm and up. Considering they're both around the same price, I know which one I would choose unless space was a serious concern.

[tigger]

I should be in the club (not that one silly billys,i'm a man :p) soon,with this setup.

D5 vario pump
Thermochill 120.2 rad
swiftech apogee gt cpu block
tygon 1/2" tube
T/line fill system

I will be adding an ek full cover block for my gpu too asap.

[EastCoasthandle]

It doesn't seem to be challenging it to me. It dissipates almost twice as much heat with Ultra High speed fans. It's ahead of the PA with fan speeds 1350rpm and up. Considering they're both around the same price, I know which one I would choose unless space was a serious concern.

I don't think a plastic rad kit is suitable on the 480 and space (even for me) is a concern. If there were some sort of metal bracket set that would allow for fan hole mounting it would be easier. Granted it's a great rad to have but you have to have a place to put it.


Edit:
Some 90 degree brackets from home depot just might work though. But who's ready for the Black Ice GTX 560 (http://forum.ncix.com/forums/index.php?mode=showthread&forum=116&threadid=1710752&pagenumber=1&subpage=1)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Radiators.png
Someone draw this I think so I am not sure how accurate it is. However it gives you an idea...

[EastCoasthandle]

I should be in the club (not that one silly billys,i'm a man :p) soon,with this setup.

D5 vario pump
Thermochill 120.2 rad
swiftech apogee gt cpu block
tygon 1/2" tube
T/line fill system

I will be adding an ek full cover block for my gpu too asap.

:toast: (sorry for the late reply :o)
Welcome to the club let us know when you are up and running. And don't be afraid to ask questions.

[EastCoasthandle]

Ok, I have to ask if anyone out there tried any of the fatboy barbs? DD finally has them for thermochill radiators (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=352&cat=34&page=1).

[intel igent]

got some fat boy's/bitspower barb's on my maze5, they work mint :D

[EastCoasthandle]

got some fat boy's/bitspower barb's on my maze5, they work mint :D

Was it easier to bleed when you refilled your loop? Any other noticeable differences?

[Wile E]

I don't think a plastic rad kit is suitable on the 480 and space (even for me) is a concern. If there were some sort of metal bracket set that would allow for fan hole mounting it would be easier. Granted it's a great rad to have but you have to have a place to put it.
If space is a concern, then yeah, the PA120.3 is probably the better idea. But if you're anything like me, and run on an open bench, then I think the GTX480 is probably the better idea.

[intel igent]

Was it easier to bleed when you refilled your loop? Any other noticeable differences?

barb's did not affect my refill time, still had to twist + tilt and lay the case to get all the air out :o

they're slightly larger than regular barb's, due to their design they grip tubing really well

best method i've found to bleed TOP mount RAD

GTX480 with some high power fan's will definately beat out a PA120.3 ;)

:toast:

[oily_17]

Ok I will be starting to set up my water system on the Maximus later this week.Here are the parts that are going in.

SwiftTech Micro Res
DDC 3.2
PA120.3
D-Tek CPU block
EK blocks for the NB,SB and VRegs
Masterkleer 7/16" Tubing
Will add GPU cooler later(when money allows:))

I have a small question -as I will be cooling the CPU,NB,SB and VRegs,what would be the best way to run my loop? ie-
RES >> PUMP >> RAD >> CPU >> NB >> VREGS >> SB >> RES

Or as I will be adding a GPU cooler later would there be any advantage/disadvantage of adding a Y connector after the RAD and have the CPU,NB and VRegs on one part and the GPU and SB on the other and then both back to RAD.
With the Y connector it might also help with routing tubing round the case as it will be a tight squeeze cooling everything.
Any other ideas on routing the tubes let me know.

Ok, I have to ask if anyone out there tried any of the fatboy barbs? DD finally has them for thermochill radiators (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=352&cat=34&page=1).

Will be using some on my pump and PA120.3, only they are the G1/4 thread with the adaptor for the Thermochill thread.


EDIT:This is the first time I have used this pump.Is it up to the job or would I be safer sticking with my SwiftTech MCP655

[intel igent]

a Y will split your flow/pressure in half

loop order does not really matter it is best to have the shortest straightes run's possible

[EastCoasthandle]

Here are some photos of the Thermochill barbs which are G 3/8 thread
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/L_RegTC_R_Fatboy_5.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/L_RegTC_R_Fatboy_2.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/L_RegTC_R_Fatboy_1.jpg
On the left is the regular barb for the Thermochill rad. On the right is the fatboy barb.





Here are some photos of a regular barb which uses a G 1/4 thread.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/L_Fatboy_R_Regbarb_3.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/L_Regbarb_R_Fatboy_3.jpg
On the left is the regular barb. On the right is the fatboy barb.

[Wile E]

I have the fatboys on my Bitspower pump top. Love those things. they seal so easily. I eventually want to replace all of my barbs with them.

[DaMulta]

You might of just killed my plan east.....I was going to get a 480 rad but now I see the 560


I was going to use these fans on the 480
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7023/fan-411/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_Programmable_LED_Fan _EF4-12.html?tl=g36c15s518

So It could say o.c.L .I. T
I thought it would be cool at a lan event.......







So for my 9800GTX Tri setup do you guys think I need to buy these?
http://www.dangerden.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=330
http://www.dangerden.com/store/files/images/fittings/micro/trisli-1-600w.jpg
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=330&cat=34&page=1#tabs

[Wile E]

You might of just killed my plan east.....I was going to get a 480 rad but now I see the 560


I was going to use these fans on the 480
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7023/fan-411/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_Programmable_LED_Fan _EF4-12.html?tl=g36c15s518

So It could say o.c.L .I. T
I thought it would be cool at a lan event.......

Those fans don't push enough air for the GTX rads. You need high flow fans.

[DaMulta]

Those would just be on the front:) high on the back
BUT
The 480 I bet already does a lot of damage even with low fan speeds ......I bet.

[DaMulta]

They are not that bad tho
48.8 CFM

Which is about what I run on the 240 because 74CFM is LOUD

[Wile E]

Those would just be on the front:) high on the back
BUT
The 480 I bet already does a lot of damage even with low fan speeds ......I bet.

The PA120.3 beats it with low speed fans. Read the link Eastcoast posted above.

[DaMulta]

LOL by one degree, and then smokes it the rest of the time.


1 degree does not turn me away:)

[intel igent]

CFM is pretty much useless, pressure is where it's at ;)

[Wile E]

CFM is pretty much useless, pressure is where it's at ;)

Regardless, those fans won't be very good for rad use.

And D, you have to realize that test was with a dual core. The differences will be much greater with a higher heat load.

[DaMulta]

Says Quad
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/img/HWlabs480GTXThermalGraph3.png

My CPU is under deep freeze tho, the rad would just be for video cards.




Wile do you think I need those fittings? I think I do.....

[Wile E]

Says Quad
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/img/HWlabs480GTXThermalGraph3.png

My CPU is under deep freeze tho, the rad would just be for video cards.




Wile do you think I need those fittings? I think I do.....

Hmmm, must've been thinking of another review.

Anyway, yeah you should get something to connect the blocks together to make it easier. Koolance has some nice ones.

[DaMulta]

will they fit?

I don't know about threadng.

[Wile E]

I dunno. Haven't really looked into it yet.

[MKmods]

will they fit?

I don't know about threadng.
yes they fit
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=400

the prob is the ID of it.. if you are using the fat boys these are quite a bit smaller ID. Also Koolance uses very few threads so if there is a bevel on the video card coolers there wont be enough threads to grab.

(Koolance uses G 1/4" threads, lol just fewer of them)

[cdawall]

subscribing building my 1st H2O setup :D

[EastCoasthandle]

subscribing building my 1st H2O setup :D

Welcome to the thread. Let us know how things go! :toast:

[cdawall]

Welcome to the thread. Let us know how things go! :toast:
i figure this would be the place to ask i think i fit to BIX 240 in the front of my case would fans-rad-fans-rad-fans work?

[Wile E]

i figure this would be the place to ask i think i fit to BIX 240 in the front of my case would fans-rad-fans-rad-fans work?

You'd lose some efficiency. The air will pick up some heat from the first rad, and blow thru the second rad.

[cdawall]

You'd lose some efficiency. The air will pick up some heat from the first rad, and blow thru the second rad.

so if i did do that it would be better to run the loop through the 2nd rad 1st?

[DaMulta]

I would not tie them together in either case, but I see what you are saying just heat up one rad two times with the last one should be the coldest and then though the system.

It could work, you would just have to try and see.





What do you guys think of my idea lol

pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.

[DOM]

What do you guys think of my idea lol

pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.
:confused: im planning on going res.>pump>rad>blocks>pump>res. or res.>pump>blocks>pump>rad>res.

[MKmods]

pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.
My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.

[SirKeldon]

Since one month and a half my loop is like this: res->pump->block->double rad->single rad->res

In my case it was far better than one single rad, i won more than 8-10ºC with both together (back-to-back) in front to the usual 4-6ºC you're used to see when you change from a single to a double rad, and maybe i could run a cpu + gpu block's when i improve my pump.

Here's how i planned the loop:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop1.jpg

The result with the new P45 mobo (i have to clean it all a lil bit as well as manage better the cables but this mobo is not the best for that, at least the "Pro" version):

http://img.techpowerup.org/080629/P5QPro_E8400.jpg

:toast:

[Wile E]

My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.

My thoughts exactly. Not only that, but 17V could possibly cause a bit of heat dump, negating any benefit of the higher pressure and flow.

[EastCoasthandle]

Since one month and a half my loop is like this: res->pump->block->double rad->single rad->res

In my case it was far better than one single rad, i won more than 8-10ºC with both together (back-to-back) in front to the usual 4-6ºC you're used to see when you change from a single to a double rad, and maybe i could run a cpu + gpu block's when i improve my pump.

Here's how i planned the loop:

http://img.techpowerup.org/080416/loop1.jpg

The result with the new P45 mobo (i have to clean it all a lil bit as well as manage better the cables but this mobo is not the best for that, at least the "Pro" version):

http://img.techpowerup.org/080629/P5QPro_E8400.jpg

:toast:

Nice :toast:

[Cold Storm]

All right guys.. what are your thoughts on this matter?

http://img.techpowerup.org/080706/water116.jpg

[intel igent]

My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.

IIRC D5 are rated 12-24v

My thoughts exactly. Not only that, but 17V could possibly cause a bit of heat dump, negating any benefit of the higher pressure and flow.

IMO the added heat dump will be negligible in his situation due to the 480 RAD

@ sirkeldon : looking good man! nice and tidy ;)

@ coldstorm : look's like a good list, only thing's i'd change are the RAD (swiftech mcr-320) and the fitting's (DD/bitspower fatboy's). good choice of tubing it's pliabillity will make it easy to slide over 1/2" barb's ;)

not shure if that fan controller will work with those fan's....

[cdawall]

my new parts list please critique

cpu block: maze 4
pump: MCP655 variable (already have)
rad: hopefully dual BIX 240s (already have one)
res: Swiftech mini-res
barbs: Bitspower G1/4" 1/2" barbs all around
tubing: Tygon R3400 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD (its the black kind)

i was also wondering is there anyway to water cool my mosfets?

[DaMulta]

My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.

It is a 12v but they show graphs on what the pump will do at 24v. So I think that it can take the extra v to them.

[MKmods]

Does the extra flow lower the temps (because dosent increasing the Volts/speed also increase the heat dump of the pump)

One other thing I am trying to figure is the faster water flows the more surface friction there is.

[DaMulta]

Does the extra flow lower the temps (because dosent increasing the Volts/speed also increase the heat dump of the pump)

One other thing I am trying to figure is the faster water flows the more surface friction there is.

It all depends on how big your run is. On smaller runs 17v could hurt you, but longer runs it could help you. If you rad is slowing the flow way down, running it faster can help temps as well.

It's something that needs to be played with to find out IMO.

[MKmods]

thanks for the info

[intel igent]

must take into consideration all of the variable's that affect temp (# of block's, size of RAD, amount of tubing, pressure drop, fan's, etc...)

you should be fine with your setup there DaMulta

[cdawall]

hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it

http://img.techpowerup.org/080707/untitled.png

[DOM]

hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it

http://img.techpowerup.org/080707/untitled.png

so are you going with a t-line ?

so your going to use two just for the cpu ?

[cdawall]

so are you going with a t-line ?

so your going to use two just for the cpu ?

i plan on a mini res i just dont know were to mount it and yes for now the rads will be just for the cpu but when i get some real vga's (on a 6200 now)

[DOM]

what about next to the ram area by the mobo tray if theres space

or at the back like how I did (http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1406/__6.jpg)

[sneekypeet]

Well here I come with a question. I have recently changed from using PC ICE to distilled water with an additive. My pump has since went from a low hum to a loud grind. I have tried, all for not, to get this thing quieted down.

So on to the question:

I need a new 110V pump. I'm currently using a Hydor Seltz and wouldn't mind using it again, but I assume there is better these days in the pump world. Please shoot out recommendations or tips/experiences!

[DOM]

Distilled Water + Pentosin G11 + PT_Nuke is what I using going to Feser One soon but also used MCT-40

I dont know about all the pumps but how long have you had yours did it start right after you changed ?

[sneekypeet]

Distilled Water + Pentosin G11 + PT_Nuke is what I using going to Feser One soon but also used MCT-40

I dont know about all the pumps but how long have you had yours did it start right after you changed ?

the minute I turned it back on. I have also torn it apart , cleaned and reseated the impeller like 4 times too. I got the pupm used , and its been running 24/7 for me for around a year.

[DOM]

well it might of worn out then 24/7 for a yr lol thats a long time :p

cuz your do you want a DC or stay with AC Pump ?

Do you know whats the Pump output gal/hour

[sneekypeet]

http://www.overclockers.com/articles672/

I use the 110V pump as it was in a trade, but my loop is set up outside the case. Personally I dont care which. Its about performance and being quiet!

Also I pump about 15" straigt up, then its all downhill from there!

[DOM]

so whats the price range ?

[sneekypeet]

Well I can get the direct replacement for this Hydor at crazyPC's for $50 + Shipping. Im not against paying more if the performance/sound level is worth the extra money!

[DOM]

well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
10 ft and 50 PSI vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30

unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2139/ex-pmp-45/Hydor_SELTZ_L_45_II_Water_Pump_950_GPH.html)

[MKmods]

well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
10 ft and 50 PSI vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30

unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2139/ex-pmp-45/Hydor_SELTZ_L_45_II_Water_Pump_950_GPH.html)

are you sure about 50psi? (If its 50psi I think its at 90V with a good tailwind) The 2 I got from DD were at best just ok, water barely came out so Ive been Liang DDC ever since

Seen these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6660/ex-pmp-59/Innovatek_Eheim_HPPS_i_High_Power_12V_Water_Pump_5 01280.html?tl=g30c107s155#blank

[sneekypeet]

well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
10 ft and 50 PSI vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30

unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2139/ex-pmp-45/Hydor_SELTZ_L_45_II_Water_Pump_950_GPH.html)

there is an L40 in the middle and I see a L45 with 925 GPH. So in your opinion those are best bang for the buck?

Edit: reading reviews and realizing they are right on 9 out of 10 things, I may as well try the Swiftech.

Any other ideas b4 I take the plunge?

[SirKeldon]

If money is not a problem i'll go with a Laing D5 instead of the Hydor L40, even i'm pretty satisfied after 5 months of my Hydor L20 ... the Laing seems more reliable besides the perfect sealed fittings not as the Hydor that pumps a lil bit of air everytime you disconnect it.

:toast:

[sneekypeet]

Laing D5 over the Swifty? sorry for my noob moment...a bit of googling tells me the D5 and the swifty are the same pump!?!?

[DOM]

are you sure about 50psi? (If its 50psi I think its at 90V with a good tailwind) The 2 I got from DD were at best just ok, water barely came out so Ive been Liang DDC ever since

Seen these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6660/ex-pmp-59/Innovatek_Eheim_HPPS_i_High_Power_12V_Water_Pump_5 01280.html?tl=g30c107s155#blank

lol thats what it says on the specs show Maximum pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR) ??

there is an L40 in the middle and I see a L45 with 925 GPH. So in your opinion those are best bang for the buck?

Edit: reading reviews and realizing they are right on 9 out of 10 things, I may as well try the Swiftech.

Any other ideas b4 I take the plunge?well that Hydor SELTZ pumps are aquariums pumps idk about the MCP655 but its the same as the Laing D5 ;)

[sneekypeet]

Everything I read says the Swifties are whisper quite with minimal vibration. Seems to be two things I couldnt say for my Hydor.

Well Im off in search of the cheapest reputable 665.

Thanks for all the help! (thanks are comming now)

@ MK I actuall saw a 1200GPH pump in my local pet smart....must of been cast Iron,,,it weighed a ton. But alas they wanted over $200 for it!

[cdawall]

Everything I read says the Swifties are whisper quite with minimal vibration. Seems to be two things I couldnt say for my Hydor.

Well Im off in search of the cheapest reputable 665.

Thanks for all the help! (thanks are comming now)

@ MK I actuall saw a 1200GPH pump in my local pet smart....must of been cast Iron,,,it weighed a ton. But alas they wanted over $200 for it!

i have one but you cant have it

[SirKeldon]

Yeah, i said Laing D5 cause you can purchase the same pump on different brands, such as Swiftech or DangerDen, even the original one, Laing.

Really the Hydor pumps are good, they're quiet (at least mine) and high reliable for the price they cost ... but normally they're not reliable and good such as a D5 (in the long time i mean) ... but of course if your purpose is price/performance some Hydor or Eheim will do the trick pretty well.

[sneekypeet]

Yeah, i said Laing D5 cause you can purchase the same pump on different brands, such as Swiftech or DangerDen, even the original one, Laing.

Really the Hydor pumps are good, they're quiet (at least mine) and high reliable for the price they cost ... but normally they're not reliable and good such as a D5 (in the long time i mean) ... but of course if your purpose is price/performance some Hydor or Eheim will do the trick pretty well.

Its quite ok, I just got caught asking a silly question b4 I googled it for myself.

Now whats the deal with the -b and the pumps with or without the switch(665's)? They all show the same specs, so am I to assume theyall do the same thing, just some have options?

[DOM]

this where I got my Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html) think its the cheapest $82.95

Also theres the Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Pump w/Tach Sensor it doesnt have the 1-5 nob it says on DD there locked at 5 but I saw on XS it was like 4 on the pump above

edit found it for less thats where I got it from :D

[SirKeldon]

The B is a limited version of the original Swiftech MCP-655, runs pretty well but it's oriented to give you just a position (in speed, flow, head) while the non-B version has a tachmeter to regulate the speed for yourself depending on the elements you're gonna cool. As it's limited, the B version won't offer you the performance of the original MCP-655 on level's 4-5 (average)

As fitseries3 told me once, NEVER GO WITH THE B! i'd trust him :laugh:

:toast:

edit: i just saw DOM's post, sorry dude :)

[MKmods]

lol thats what it says on the specs show Maximum pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR) ??
thats listed as MAX pressure, the real pressure is a LOT lower. Its kind of like PS companies and cheap car stereo amplifiers that list inflated specs.

I would recommend the Liang DDC pump. Add the petras top and its even better
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcabpuco.html

[sneekypeet]

this where I got my Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html) think its the cheapest $82.95

Also theres the Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Pump w/Tach Sensor it doesnt have the 1-5 nob it says on DD there locked at 5 but I saw on XS it was like 4 on the pump above

Thats the exact one Im planning on, but I had run across all the varients on it in google. Just had to satisfy my curiosity.

@ SirKeldon....this is why I asked here...Thanks for the heads up!

[DOM]

Thats the exact one Im planning on, but I had run across all the varients on it in google. Just had to satisfy my curiosity.

@ SirKeldon....this is why I asked here...Thanks for the heads up!

http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html

edit the link thats was the lowest ;)

[sneekypeet]

http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html

edit the link thats was the lowest ;)

So basically its $5 for a variable speed switch?

[DOM]

So basically its $5 for a variable speed switch?

dont you mean $10 DD cost lil bit more idk why there the same pumps ;)

[DanishDevil]

Get the variable speed. I found it extremely helpful when filling and bleeding my loop. It's usually an extra $30 for it. For $5 more, you'd have to be a thought-provoked monkey to say no...erm...hmm...

[DanishDevil]

hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it

http://img.techpowerup.org/080707/untitled.png

You need to fill your blocks bottom to top. Gravity will keep air bubbles from forming in your block.

And put your res in front of your pump (not location in the case, but in the loop). Same with the rads if they're Crossflow.

[Wile E]

I prefer the DDC pumps myself. I use the DDC-1 with the Bitspower Reservoir replacement top. Helps simplify the loop a lot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6967/ex-pmp-61/Bitspower_Mini_DDC_Water_Tank_Pump_Top_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355.html

[sneekypeet]

Get the variable speed. I found it extremely helpful when filling and bleeding my loop. It's usually an extra $30 for it. For $5 more, you'd have to be a thought-provoked monkey to say no...erm...hmm...

Ummm.right speed switch....I dont really see a need to be honest, but I may get it just to be sure its running full out...lol.

@ Wile_e...Ever used another pump to compare to. Im not trying to kill you opinion, just asking?

[DanishDevil]

Well it's rumored that the non-vario pumps run at speed 4/5 while the vario can go from 1-5. The Laing D5 doesn't have numbers, just a fluid twisty-speed-thingy-ma-bobber.

[Wile E]

Ummm.right speed switch....I dont really see a need to be honest, but I may get it just to be sure its running full out...lol.

@ Wile_e...Ever used another pump to compare to. Im not trying to kill you opinion, just asking?

Tried out a D5 for a while. I like the DDC better. There wasn't really a performance difference in my simple loop, so I'd be the wrong person to ask. I prefer the DDC for their versatility when you consider all the tops available for them.

[sneekypeet]

Tried out a D5 for a while. I like the DDC better. There wasn't really a performance difference in my simple loop, so I'd be the wrong person to ask. I prefer the DDC for their versatility when you consider all the tops available for them.

You both seem to mention "if" I get a new top its better. I just need the pump and my loop is only the CPU(simple). So with no ambition to actially get a different res, I think Im still going swifty.

Thanks all the same to you and MK for the option tho!


and....Ordered. Swity 665 Variable speed, on its way, hopefully by Friday!:toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_5.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_4.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_3.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/GFX_base.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_2.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_1.jpg


I haven't found any reviews on it yet. However, its very interesting GPU WB none the less.

[EastCoasthandle]

It also appears that iandh (http://www.overclock.net/4159726-post11.html), the creator of creator of the IC/vreg heat sinks (http://www.petrastechshop.com/cu88cokitbyi.html) will also have vreg heat sinks for the 4850 and 4870 in about 2 weeks or so. So keep an eye out for places like petra, sidewinder, etc by next month or so.

[MKmods]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_5.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_4.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_3.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/GFX_base.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_2.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/Dtek_GPU2_1.jpg


I haven't found any reviews on it yet. However, its very interesting GPU WB none the less.

Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago and temps were very nice (their top is a lot prettier than mine though)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture098.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture100.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture070.jpg

works better with the pins separated a little more. And the D-shape or round helps flow and eliminates more of the hot spots.

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

What all would I need If I just wanted to cool my CPU and maybe video card? And how would the loop look?

Edit: Should also add that they both would be overclocked as high as i could get them.

[EastCoasthandle]

Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago and temps were very nice (their top is a lot prettier than mine though)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture098.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture100.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture070.jpg

works better with the pins separated a little more. And the D-shape or round helps flow and eliminates more of the hot spots.

Very interesting indeed. Thanks for sharing this information. Do you think that design is a bit more restrictive then Maze4/5? Do you believe it will perform better then a Maze4/5?

[EastCoasthandle]

What all would I need If I just wanted to cool my CPU and maybe video card? And how would the loop look?

Edit: Should also add that they both would be overclocked as high as i could get them.

Welcome to the thread :toast: (forgive me if you posted before).
What you will need in general are:
GPU WB: jury is out on the Dtek GFX2
CPU WB: IMHO the Dtek Fuzion is a good option
Tubing: you have to decide on what size you want to go with and pick your barbs accordingly. One idea is 7/16" ID which can fit 1/2" barbs
Radiator: There are a few to choose from be it Thermochill, Swiftech, Feaser (haven't seen reviews on this yet unless I forgot, lol) and HW Labs to name a few. I would suggest a 3 fan radiator. You want a radiator that can dispense heat at a min RPM.
Thermalright LGA775 RM Retension Bracket: This will prevent you from bowing your motherboard as you tighten down on the screws of your WB.
Fans: You want a reliable, durable fan that can push a good amount of air at a low RPM. Without it choking do to the restriction of the radiators fins. There are a few options, IMHO Scythe SFF21E and Yate Loons medium fans are a good start.
Tube Clamps: I would get the plastic ones.
Finally, you will have to decide if you want to go with a reservoir or a T-line. T-Lines can reduce the amount of tubing and allow your case to have a more tidy look. However, the Tee itself can be restrictive (I wouldn't get a 1/2" Tee but the next size larger from your Hardware store). Also, compared to a reservoir takes longer to bleed the loop of airpockets/bubbles. Either way, the choice is yours which way you want to go.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a154/eastcoasthandle/WATER%20COOLING/biggerT_pt3.jpg

[MKmods]

Very interesting indeed. Thanks for sharing this information. Do you think that design is a bit more restrictive then Maze4/5? Do you believe it will perform better then a Maze4/5?

Better less restriction. The curve facilitates flow, the Mazes have slots which are easier to stamp out but the pins when spaced a bit apart allow heat to be transfered 360deg. Also the Maze blocks have that divider built into the top.(adds too much turbulence)

When the pins are too close together it places a restriction on flow (adds more surface) but remember its not that easy to compress water so expecting it to flow freely through tiny close together pins is asking a bit much.

I used the enzotech blocks (saved me a ton of time making then, and have you seen the cost of proper forging machinery :laugh:) Also the Enzotech blocks are Forged (MUCH better thermal efficiency than cast)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/encnonfocoso.html

LOL after I made those Enzotech came out with the round one, it would saved me a TON of time not having to grind the square blocks round:laugh:

(I ran the Maze 4s on my 8800GTSs and mine were 3 to 5C less)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Rosewill%20Mod/Extreme/Picture036.jpg
I cant believe I found that pict...

I bet you EastCoastHandle $.25 the GX2 is better than the maze4/5..(dont forget to remind me when the reviews start showing up, (remember Im old and will probably forget I made this bet))

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

What size tubing would you recommend?

[EastCoasthandle]

MKmods,
Thanks for the additional information. What would you recommend for GPU WB? Or should I keep the Maze4 for now?

Edit:
Maybe you could shot an email to Dtek letting them know about the pin formation. Hopefully, we will see a revision before end of year (wishful thinking).

[EastCoasthandle]

What size tubing would you recommend?

7/16" ID 11/16" OD tubing. But this is a personal preference.

[cdawall]

What size tubing would you recommend?

7/16 if you go with 1/2 barbs

[MKmods]

MKmods,
Thanks for the additional information. What would you recommend for GPU WB? Or should I keep the Maze4 for now?

Edit:
Maybe you could shot an email to Dtek letting them know about the pin formation. Hopefully, we will see a revision before end of year (wishful thinking).


If the Maze4s fit I think they are a good deal (good value for the $$) No point in spending $$ till you see for sure.

By the way ECH (Im getting way too lazy to type ur whole name now) That pict of a Tee is an excellent one to use, their ID is plenty big. Thank goodness for Homedepots.:toast:

I use 1/2 free flow fittings with 3/8 hose and no clamps.

[intel igent]

@ Mk : got more pix of the inside of your top?

i've got two of those T's and two elbow's in my loop, they are great!

turbulence help's to promote heat transfer

[DaMulta]

What size tubing would you recommend?

3/8s will fit through a pci slot hole on your case. So if you wanted to run your loop without cutting holes that may be the way you want to go.

If you set the whole thing in the case I would say 1/2 because you have more volume of coolant to heat up.

Me and wile have talked about this, he says that there is no gain going from 3/8 to 1/2 when I think there is.

A 240GTX radiator will work like wonders. A 120GTX radiator will work on a CPU and Video card you will just have to run the fan at a very high speed for it to keep up. The bigger the radiator, the slower you can run the fans.

I prefer the DDC pumps myself. I use the DDC-1 with the Bitspower Reservoir replacement top. Helps simplify the loop a lot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6967/ex-pmp-61/Bitspower_Mini_DDC_Water_Tank_Pump_Top_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355.html


That is badass

[MKmods]

@ Mk : got more pix of the inside of your top?

i've got two of those T's and two elbow's in my loop, they are great!

turbulence help's to promote heat transfer
sorry, no.
My business guys keep telling me to stop sharing stuff, so I can only show what is already online.

Turbulence also reduces flow and adds to aeration.

[[I.R.A]_FBi]

What are your opinions on the pertras kits?

[MKmods]

Petra FTW! its a very good company and deserves everyones support.
(Alex please send me more pens, Im out ;))

(Big companies Like Newegg/WalMart are ok but its the little ones that make all the cool stuff)

[intel igent]

sorry, no.
My business guys keep telling me to stop sharing stuff, so I can only show what is already online.

i'm just curious cuz you said :

Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago.

to me it just look's like the top has offset barb's (one higher than the other) vs having directional channel's in the top a la Dtek GFX

bussiness guy's hehehe :respect:

[twicksisted]

hey this is a bit of a silly question... but why is watercooling "naturally aspired"? surely air is more natural to a cpu than water...

I understand natural aspiration in car engines (air vs turbo / supercharger)... just wondering why its called natural aspiration for watercooling a cpu.

[EastCoasthandle]

If the Maze4s fit I think they are a good deal (good value for the $$) No point in spending $$ till you see for sure.

By the way ECH (Im getting way too lazy to type ur whole name now) That pict of a Tee is an excellent one to use, their ID is plenty big. Thank goodness for Homedepots.:toast:

I use 1/2 free flow fittings with 3/8 hose and no clamps.

Yeah they do come in handy for your water cooled PC sometimes.

[intel igent]

Turbulence also reduces flow and adds to aeration.

it does but it increases thermal transfer, it's why we have impingement style block's ;)

http://www.efunda.com/formulae/heat_transfer/home/overview.cfm

^^ a good read for those interested

:toast:

[MKmods]

it does but it increases thermal transfer, it's why we have impingement style block's ;)

http://www.efunda.com/formulae/heat_transfer/home/overview.cfm
^^ a good read for those interested
:toast:
The problem with impingement style blocks is they need more pressure and place a LARGE restriction on flow.

And with the advent with Single,dual and quad cores and the growth of the GPU as well pointing a high speed stream at the center of the block dosent work as well as before when the storm was king, not to mention with so many different types of cores and each one needing its own restricter it is just too complicated for the companies to make 1 block that works well on all stuff.

[intel igent]

The problem with impingement style blocks is they need more pressure and place a LARGE restriction on flow.

And with the advent with Single,dual and quad cores and the growth of the GPU as well pointing a high speed stream at the center of the block dosent work as well as before when the storm was king, not to mention with so many different types of cores and each one needing its own restricter it is just too complicated for the companies to make 1 block that works well on all stuff.

funny cuz these method's seem to be doing quite well for Dtek + EK (to name a few)

i'd still like to see another pick of your top to see if it has directional channel's or merely just offset barb's

:toast:

[MKmods]

How about you posting some of your blocks so we can see what you have contributed:laugh:
(instead of just bugging me)

[intel igent]

How about you posting some of your blocks so we can see what you have contributed:rolleyes:

why you gettin' your panties in a bunch?

all i asked for is another pik of the top to see the inside! you're talkin' like Dtek swiped the idea from you so i wanna see if you were the originator or not.

i don't need to post anything to validate myself, my REAL penis is big enough.

edit : bugging YOU! LOL you're hillarious

[cdawall]

hows this look?

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/untitled.jpg

and i'm looking at 6-8 of these beasts and some kind of godly card to control them 3A per fan lol

http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/18097

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

3/8s will fit through a pci slot hole on your case. So if you wanted to run your loop without cutting holes that may be the way you want to go.

If you set the whole thing in the case I would say 1/2 because you have more volume of coolant to heat up.

Me and wile have talked about this, he says that there is no gain going from 3/8 to 1/2 when I think there is.

A 240GTX radiator will work like wonders. A 120GTX radiator will work on a CPU and Video card you will just have to run the fan at a very high speed for it to keep up. The bigger the radiator, the slower you can run the fans.

I do have a Thermaltake Armor case and I do believe it has two holes in the back of the case to run tubes out of. I dont have any rubber things to put over the holes though to keep it from puncturing the tubes.

Since I have a 9800GTX and want to keep costs minimal but still with the best performance, what would you recommend for the GTX? If I went with a small waterblock, I would need ramsinks correct?

For some reason watercooling confuses the hell out of me. Any way you guys can compile lists on my water cooling thread here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=65029)?

[EastCoasthandle]

hows this look?

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/untitled.jpg

and i'm looking at 6-8 of these beasts and some kind of godly card to control them 3A per fan lol

http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/18097

Could you label this? I am not sure what I am looking at, thanks!

[cdawall]

Could you label this? I am not sure what I am looking at, thanks!

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/untitled175.jpg

[DaMulta]

I do have a Thermaltake Armor case and I do believe it has two holes in the back of the case to run tubes out of. I dont have any rubber things to put over the holes though to keep it from puncturing the tubes.

Since I have a 9800GTX and want to keep costs minimal but still with the best performance, what would you recommend for the GTX? If I went with a small waterblock, I would need ramsinks correct?

For some reason watercooling confuses the hell out of me. Any way you guys can compile lists on my water cooling thread here (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=65029)?

Keep cost down?

Ok here is a list then

DD - 9800GTX $124.95 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=339&cat=48&page=1) 1/2
Black Ice GTX120 $53.95 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/cart.php?product_added=255) 1/2
Copper TDX Block for Intel 775 Processors $52.95 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=21) 1/2
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing $76.95 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=274&cat=23&page=1)
Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir $31.95 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=53&cat=27&page=1)

Subtotal: $340.75
Then you could use their tubing or the cheap stuff at lowes. You can also make your own water mix to save another 40 dollars.


cpu/video card

[EastCoasthandle]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/untitled175.jpg

I honestly don't see a problem with this setup. However, I wouldn't put 1 rad behind another inside the PC Case. You will pull warm air from the 1st rad into the 2nd rad. Post some pics when you get things up and running :toast:

[DaMulta]

I can't wait to see how the two rads run tied together like that.

[cdawall]

I can't wait to see how the two rads run tied together like that.

your not the only one bunch of folks on XS are saying the same thing

[DOM]

I dont think it would change much my temps just went up like 2-3c load from room temps of 70f to 82f right now idle did go up by say 3-5c :ohwell:

[sneekypeet]

your not the only one bunch of folks on XS are saying the same thing

I smell a FAIL when it comes to hooking the rads up to water in your configuration unless one of the rads is rotated 90*. The fans inbetween will not allow enough room to get the hoses in and connected!

Just a heads up b4 you finalize the plan!

[MKmods]

I smell a FAIL when it comes to hooking the rads up to water in your configuration unless one of the rads is rotated 90*. The fans inbetween will not allow enough room to get the hoses in and connected!

Just a heads up b4 you finalize the plan!
Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html

so would these
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=680

and if you rotated 1 rad 180 deg fron the other (1 with hoses on the top and one with hoses on the bottom it should work)

[sneekypeet]

Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html

I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!

[cdawall]

Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html

so would these
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=680

anybody have those in copper?

[cdawall]

anybody have those in copper?

nvm you changed your post lol

[MKmods]

I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!
do you mean in a cross pattern?

[cdawall]

I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!

mine have a fitting at the top and bottom so i could run it with elbows just fine

do you mean in a cross pattern?

not happening case isn't big enough

[sneekypeet]

Something like this if you were to look top down at the sandwich....

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/cdawallrad.jpg

[cdawall]

mine arent set up like that though

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=199

[sneekypeet]

Oh well you are screwed without 90* fittings then. You will see when you try to connect the hoses straight on with a fan and a header from another rad they you wont have the room to attach it!

Even with this rad....http://www.jab-tech.com/xcart/product_images/detailed/d_2527.jpg

Unless one rad is 90* from the other you have to use 90*'s...not the best plan IMHO!

Edit: The link you posted it to a 2X120 rad...you are laying 2 of those in your case?

[cdawall]

Oh well you are screwed without 90* fittings then. You will see when you try to connect the hoses straight on with a fan and a header from another rad they you wont have the room to attach it!

Even with this rad....http://www.jab-tech.com/xcart/product_images/detailed/d_2527.jpg

Unless one rad is 90* from the other you have to use 90*'s...not the best plan IMHO!

Edit: The link you posted it to a 2X120 rad...you are laying 2 of those in your case?

yep here is my DD cart right now

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/Capture066-20080709.png

[cdawall]

wait no im doing this tubing

http://www.jab-tech.com/Tygon-R-3400-7-16-ID-9-16-OD-UV-Resistant-black-Tubing-AAE00032-pr-3958.html

[sneekypeet]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/cdawallrad2.jpg

^^^ does that seem more relevant now?

[cdawall]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080709/cdawallrad2.jpg

^^^ does that seem more relevant now?

it should work fine like i have it with 90 degree fittings

[sneekypeet]

it should work fine like i have it with 90 degree fittings

Im just saying the way I have it flow would have to be better. It is you party tho....play it how you want to!

[cdawall]

Im just saying the way I have it flow would have to be better. It is you party tho....play it how you want to!

lol maybe ill try this and if all else fails ill try something else i mean shit idc whats in the loop its a MCP655 :p i tihnk she can pump enough to keep my safe

[MKmods]

I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
(and the masterclear is not very flexible)

[cdawall]

I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
(and the masterclear is not very flexible)

that would work so i only needed 2 90s and those would be on the front rad short of punching the tubing out the front i cant get around it

swapped for some tygon R-3400

[sneekypeet]

I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
(and the masterclear is not very flexible)

If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.


EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?

[cdawall]

If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.


im thinking take my original image and face the front rad so the fittings faced the other rad. on the front rad put a 90 degree fitting to the side of the case and run the inside most rads top fitting to it and on the bottom fitting a 90 again but point it out to the side and run it towards the mobo tray and run it up to my cpu block :D

EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?

i think thats what he meant but it wont fit in the front of my case

[SirKeldon]

Get the Tygon R-3603 ... is a pleasure to bend it and see that no crushes appear :D

[sneekypeet]

Get the Tygon R-3603 ... is a pleasure to bend it and see that no crushes appear :D

IDK i payed through my teeth ($3.50 a foot) for Tygon...6 months later its cloudy. Also I agree it wont kink, but I have tried to make a couple of turns ion SLI that it flattened right out on.

Not all that impressed for the money to be honest...Going with red tubing next, something new!

[cdawall]

i was looking at the R-3400 mainly because its black

how much comes for that $1 or whatever?

[sneekypeet]

i was looking at the R-3400 mainly because its black

how much comes for that $1 or whatever?

its priced by the foot cd!

[cdawall]

its priced by the foot cd!

good cause i wasn't paying attention and didnt want to go oh shit when it showed up

[SirKeldon]

IDK i payed through my teeth ($3.50 a foot) for Tygon...6 months later its cloudy. Also I agree it wont kink, but I have tried to make a couple of turns ion SLI that it flattened right out on.

Not all that impressed for the money to be honest...Going with red tubing next, something new!

Sad to hear that, i have two hard bends together on the last rad->res plug and no one kinked never, i can only say good things about Tygon though i never tested a SLI/X-Fire plug, i'll tell you :)

:toast:

[sneekypeet]

good cause i wasn't paying attention and didnt want to go oh shit when it showed up

Well on further examination , your "Quantity: 2" will leave that oh shit in place upon arrival. I say around 10ft is usually good. get 15 if you think you may change things up a bit after the initial setup!

@ SirKeldon...if not for the clouding , for my CPU it works great. I love that it stays soft, I have used a lot of tubing before for fishtanks/pumps. It always got rockhard in 6 months. It may have had something to do with the PC ICE coolant I was using as well. Who knows?

[MKmods]

If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.
EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?

Oh yee of little faith
(sorry for the sucky pict)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/mkmods/Picture003.jpg

The end with the nozzles sticks out further than the end without

I have used primochill hose and its cool
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7685/ex-tub-318/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38ID_58_OD_wit h_18_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s171
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=257
now in nice colors too

[tigger]

Is this radiator any good?

http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?WebProductId=798997

It is pretty cheap.

[sneekypeet]

Oh yee of little faith
(sorry for the sucky pict)

The end with the nozzles sticks out further than the end without

I have used primochill hose and its cool
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7685/ex-tub-318/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38ID_58_OD_wit h_18_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s171
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=257
now in nice colors too

That was my first assumption, but you missed the part where he links to his type of rads. They have a barb in opposite corners, no like ours!

Also on the links to the tubing...I am looking to nab the red varient on my next major buy(offsets shipping a bit)!