Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

[MT Alex]

Yes, I'm pretty confident, now. My leak tests are getting shorter, and I can see myself getting to the point of "Looks good to me."

[Chicken Patty]

I agree with wile E on the leak testing theory! That's how I do it too!

[Inioch]

Well here's how it turned out. I like how easy it is to make it look tidy. Could use some more room between the motherboard tray and the side panel.
Most of the cables have been hidden inside the hdd bays, so if I add another rad on the bottom at some point, I'll have to get more creative.
One thing that I haven't found yet, is an adapter from 3-pin fan to sata power. The only reason I still have the older molex power cable is to power some fans and the pump.

Here's one without the GTX 460:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100906/IMG_0059_small.jpg

And here's one that's all finished:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100906/IMG_0063_small.jpg

Sadly I couldn't get a push-pull to fit on the top like I planned, but will have to do with this for now.
i5-750 loads @ 50c on stock speed.

[grunt_408]

Looks very good Inioch. Where you worried when you turned it on for the first time? I was a bit worried about mine. But now I am getting ready for phase 2. Fitting an extra 2x120 RAD and a 5970 waterblock haha. I really enjoyed doing mine as it is something completely different.

[Inioch]

I'm always a bit worried when turning it on for the first time. This time especially, since there are no clamps. I trust the tubes to be on tightly enough and check on them every now and then.

I can't wait to see yours.

[grunt_408]

Ok newbie wanting some help. I am waiting on tube for the moment and i may have just scored a waterblock for my motherboard too. And reading through peoples post's I am wondering about the best way to run it all. I am sure I am asking in the right place. Also will my pump strugle with all of this?
I have
2 2x120 mm RAD's
EK-CoolStream RAD XT
MCR220
1 CPU block
Apogee XT
1 5970 waterblock
http://www.lynx-india.com/published/publicdata/KEHSYUHTWEBASYST/attachments/SC/products_pictures/XSPC%20Razor%205970%20Full%20Coverage%20GPU%20Wate rblock_enl.jpeg
1 chipset block
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/medium_thumbnails/EK-FB-GAX58-Acetal.jpg
and a RES/PUMP combo
http://www.pccasegear.com/UserFiles/3831109840016b.jpg

[Easy Rhino]

damn, craig that is an awesome setup! :rockout:

[grunt_408]

Here's a pic of it taken with my webcam so please scuse the quality.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd145/Craigleberry/Picture4.jpg

[MT Alex]

I love those "up skirt" angles. Makes everything look monumental.

I'm not familiar with that pump, but I'm sure it'll be fine. People seem to worry a lot about thier pumps, but I think any old thing will have enough head pressure and flow to make it through a few blocks and rads.

[grunt_408]

I love those "up skirt" angles. Makes everything look monumental.

I'm not familiar with that pump, but I'm sure it'll be fine. People seem to worry a lot about thier pumps, but I think any old thing will have enough head pressure and flow to make it through a few blocks and rads.

My only other concern is the way I tube it up. I do not want certain things affecting temps. I would like to know the best way to run it.
EDIT and the tubing i speak of is black so I can give the whole lot a good flush and be gone with that cacky green dye.
I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.

[Inioch]

Nice looking set there Craig! I had a similiar setup before wit 2x240 rads, cpu+gpu blocks. My pump is dTek DB-1 (http://www.dtekcustoms.com/db-1compact12vpump.aspx) and it had plenty enough for a setup like that.

Also I'm becoming even more convinced that in the long run loop order doesn't matter too much. I like to keep a rad before cpu or gpu, but if some other order makes your tubing shorter and easier, then go for that.

[t_ski]

I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.

Just curious as to how oyu are going to make this happen. I have a Spedo Advanced as well, and I'm not sure how it would fit, especially with the 140mm fan there. However, if your modding skills are any good, you probably can replace the top 220mm fan with a couple 120's and mount the rad up there. I'll see if I can come up with some tube routing ideas. Pump going in the same spot it is now?

[MT Alex]

I have a 230mm pulling over my top mounted rad, with 2 120s pushing, works great. The 230mm almost covers the whole rad.

[ERazer]

hmm shoulda join this club long time ago lol :cool:

im already thinking putting my third rig under h20 :nutkick:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100715/CIMG0251.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/100814/CIMG0381.jpg

[Delta6326]

does http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_WaterCooling_Kit _Hot_Item.html#blank come with tubing? and if i was to get should i flush out the system i have never done water cooling

[DOM]

does http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_WaterCooling_Kit _Hot_Item.html#blank come with tubing? and if i was to get should i flush out the system i have never done water cooling2 Meters of Clear 7/16" Hose, i boil some distilled water and put it in the rad and shake it :p

[t_ski]

My only other concern is the way I tube it up. I do not want certain things affecting temps. I would like to know the best way to run it.
EDIT and the tubing i speak of is black so I can give the whole lot a good flush and be gone with that cacky green dye.
I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.

You might be able to use a similar setup to mine, considering the blocks are very similar:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100302/P1100222a.jpg

[MT Alex]

I'm a sucker for blue tubing. Very nice rigs.

@ERazer - Are those 3 Gentle Typhoons in the first one?

[ERazer]

I'm a sucker for blue tubing. Very nice rigs.

@ERazer - Are those 3 Gentle Typhoons in the first one?

yes sir, best fan i ever bought, got em for 15$ when sidewinders got sale

[Chicken Patty]

Awesome rigs Erazer :respect:

[grunt_408]

Just curious as to how oyu are going to make this happen. I have a Spedo Advanced as well, and I'm not sure how it would fit, especially with the 140mm fan there. However, if your modding skills are any good, you probably can replace the top 220mm fan with a couple 120's and mount the rad up there. I'll see if I can come up with some tube routing ideas. Pump going in the same spot it is now?

Thanks t_ski ,
The Pump/Res is staying where is it now. But the plastic that it is sitting on now is going to be replaced by a steel support custom made by yours truly. It will be made with enough clearence for the RAD to go in between the 140mm fan and the Pump/Res. You know what I mean James Dean?

hmm shoulda join this club long time ago lol :cool:

im already thinking putting my third rig under h20 :nutkick:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100715/CIMG0251.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/100814/CIMG0381.jpg

Nice setups ERazer

[mlee49]

Bump!

http://img.techpowerup.org/101008/102_2465.jpg

[t_ski]

Er, you mean "pump"?

[Chicken Patty]

Er, you mean "pump"?

:roll::roll::roll:

own3d!

[erocker]

I just made a radbox!

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0133.jpg

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0129.jpg

[MT Alex]

That is a whole lot of awesome coming out of one little tackle box.

[grunt_408]

Nice Radbox!! I have been thinking about getting my butt into gear and fitting the 5970 waterblock. Thermal pads check ,MX-3 Check, Spare tube check, Distilled water Check. Hmm I guess that leaves me with no excuse does it? I have all I need.

[Cold Storm]

I just made a radbox!

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0133.jpg

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0129.jpg

Got nothing better to do at work don't you?


great job non the less

:toast:

[Chicken Patty]

That actually came out really good. Love it! :toast:

[angelkiller]

Noob question: Radbox? I've actually never heard/seen of those. What does it help you do?

[erocker]

Noob question: Radbox? I've actually never heard/seen of those. What does it help you do?

It's just a place to mount everything externally in one unit. I'll be adding one or two (depending on space) 120mm rads in there along with my MCP355 w/res. top. Basically, I plan on cutting holes at the top for the tubing and power connections, then cut a hole in the bottom of my Lian Li V1000 case. I'll then just set the case on top of the radbox and feed the tubes right up to the blocks.

[angelkiller]

Gotcha.

[NastyHabits]

I just made a radbox!

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0133.jpg

http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0129.jpg

A very unique solution. Good job.

[t_ski]

Are those hollowed-out 120mm fans for a shroud of sorts? I assume they're not double-stacked working fans...

[Velvet Wafer]

Are those hollowed-out 120mm fans for a shroud of sorts? I assume they're not double-stacked working fans...

I believe in this case it are just empty fan shrouds, as you say, but combining 2 fans would also make perfect sense to me. Have you made any negative experiences with that, or is that just highly uncommon? :)

[[Ion]]

Count me in, I love my H50 :toast:

[t_ski]

I believe in this case it are just empty fan shrouds, as you say, but combining 2 fans would also make perfect sense to me. Have you made any negative experiences with that, or is that just highly uncommon? :)

I could see the fans being slightly different speeds from each other, and that causing them to work against one another. Usually if you have two fans, you would have one on each side of the rad, unless in this case you are using one that is hollowed out to bring another fan up off the rad to eliminate a dead spot.

[Velvet Wafer]

I could see the fans being slightly different speeds from each other, and that causing them to work against one another. Usually if you have two fans, you would have one on each side of the rad, unless in this case you are using one that is hollowed out to bring another fan up off the rad to eliminate a dead spot.
would that also be the case,even if they are exactly the same? (take or give about 100-200 rpm the fan is off from spec)
i know the classic push pull config, but i always asked myself if stacking the same fan may increase the air pressure, and if so, to what percentage compared to a single fan;)

[t_ski]

I think it would be impossible to match the fans, but I could be just talking out may arse. :D

[MT Alex]

This just came in the mail. Hopefully, it will be quieter than my 655b. If so I plan on unloading it.
http://img.techpowerup.org/101019/023.jpg

[Wile E]

The Double Pen 1200?

How much for the 655 if you dump it? I'm debating moving away from my DDC based pumps to the D4/5 series.

[MT Alex]

BALLS!
I damn near PMd you because of this:
http://img.techpowerup.org/101021/Untitled528.jpg


But, I didn't:shadedshu
[FS][US] Swiftech MCP655 Vario (http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=133087)

It was brand new in Feb, the original I bought used was goofy loud.

I'm really liking my Jingway.

[Wile E]

AH shit balls! Oh well. Win some lose some I guess. lol.

[MT Alex]

I had to give up my dreams of the rad box tower, because I have to give up my office to make room for a new baby. Instead, I just mounted my extra res to the back of my tripple rad. Now, for better or worse, am running two reserviors, it was just easier to leave the micro.

http://img.techpowerup.org/101023/001.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/101023/002.jpg

Also, I skipped using the mounting hardware for my new Jingway, and just heaped padding around it. Makes it totally quiet. I was wondering if this would make it run too hot. It does have a 140mm right in front of it, and water moving through it. It feels cool to the touch. Any thoughts?
http://img.techpowerup.org/101023/003.jpg

[brandonwh64]

MT Alex, i have the SAME EXACT PUMP! i love it but im going AIR soon and will be getting rid of all my water cooling

[MT Alex]

I like it too. It's quiet as a mouse and pisses like a race horse.

[Inioch]

Let's ressurrect this thread with a question. I'm deploying in March and would like to know, should I dismantle my loop or can it stay without use for 3+ months at a time?

I'm going to be on leave 2-3 times in the next 9 months, so the setup would be offline for about 3 months at a time.

[(FIH) The Don]

i would dismantle it, especially if you have dye in the water, it gets soooo nasty when it just sits there for months :eek:

even with regular water i would do it.

[Cold Storm]

Let's ressurrect this thread with a question. I'm deploying in March and would like to know, should I dismantle my loop or can it stay without use for 3+ months at a time?

I'm going to be on leave 2-3 times in the next 9 months, so the setup would be offline for about 3 months at a time.

Personally, I would go to air for the time that your "away"... This way your safe in everything that happens.. No corrosion of the tubes, water leaking, that sort of thing.. Yeah, with the new stuff that has came out, it probably wouldn't happen.. But, still.. I'd rather be safe and not have to spend XXX because I came back from duty and saw my loop bone dry, and nothing working anymore..

just my 2cents

[(FIH) The Don]

will get better shots later
http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0011.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0008.jpg

also.... the water is getting purple'ish, should i change it ? it was just distilled water, and i use those black uv tubes, is that what is coloring my water?

[Velvet Wafer]

will get better shots later
http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0011.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0008.jpg

also.... the water is getting purple'ish, should i change it ? it was just distilled water, and i use those black uv tubes, is that what is coloring my water?

Oh Don,im looking forward to you reworking the loop for more efficiency! :p
If the color of the water is more blue than purple, its probably copper from the rads.
Can also be, that your tubing colors the water, but i dont believe that, most tubing is medical grade, and will not react with the coolant, besides some residue may begin to accumulate on the tubing,dependant on the quality, coolant, and material of the tubing.
What i know is, that most new stuff will not be totally clean of production residues, and can visually alter the coolant. if you drain the coolant again, and refill the whole loop, it shouldnt return anymore... you could have cicumvented that, by flushing all parts before using them, with hot water... but i admit i also dont do that, its not very problematic, as most of the stuff the parts drop in the water, are smear fluids and oils, that the pumps drop, when beeing new... so it wont hurt anything in the loop ;)

[cdawall]

so i am reworking my loop and am going to throw some antifreeze in it wilee was telling me dexcool is not as good as the old school green i am only running it at a 15% mix will it be that bad?

[cdawall]

double post but meh its club forums

http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/2011-01-16_19-10-04_577.jpg

hows that look

[Cold Storm]

Nice, tight and clean. Looks good.

[cdawall]

Nice, tight and clean. Looks good.

that was 90% of the reason behind the rework :toast: thanks

[MT Alex]

Yessiree, I like the side mounted tripple.
You must be the one who had the thread for mounting your PSU on the side? Seems to be a very nice way to gain some room. I looked at doing it to mine, but the mobo would literally rest on the top of the PSU, and it's only a mATX, so no expanding to a larger one. Wish I could find one of those old Rocketfish cases, huge. Although, cabling looks to be a tough go, not much space behind the mobo tray.

[Wile E]

I can't find where it was being discussed, but I was reading a thread somewhere that Dexcool doesn't necessarily have performance issues, but more like reliability issues in cooling loops.

[cdawall]

Yessiree, I like the side mounted tripple.
You must be the one who had the thread for mounting your PSU on the side? Seems to be a very nice way to gain some room. I looked at doing it to mine, but the mobo would literally rest on the top of the PSU, and it's only a mATX, so no expanding to a larger one. Wish I could find one of those old Rocketfish cases, huge. Although, cabling looks to be a tough go, not much space behind the mobo tray.

that was me :)

I can't find where it was being discussed, but I was reading a thread somewhere that Dexcool doesn't necessarily have performance issues, but more like reliability issues in cooling loops.

hmmm what do you mean by reliability like eating parts up or what?

edit after reading about 10 threads on different forums 1 thread listed someone with issues the rest were fine im going for it.

[cdawall]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-19-46_463.jpg

all filled up running ~25% dexcool + ~75% water

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-19-58_411.jpg

laing D4 (corsair labeled) pump 1

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-19-17_595.jpg

3.5" bay res (petras ran out of black so they sent me this one with a huge discount)

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-18-14_551.jpg

fillport

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-18-04_66.jpg

laing D5 vario (swifty 655 vario) pump 2

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-17-56_410.jpg

backside of the res

here is the before its bad....

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-14_21-19-15_779.jpg

[Wile E]

that was me :)



hmmm what do you mean by reliability like eating parts up or what?

edit after reading about 10 threads on different forums 1 thread listed someone with issues the rest were fine im going for it.

1/10 is still not very good odds in reference to reliability. That's lawsuit territory for manufacturers.

[cdawall]

1/10 is still not very good odds in reference to reliability. That's lawsuit territory for manufacturers.

only thing i read about was it hardening up so i will keep an eye out and hope for the best...it is still better than me constantly freezing my loop

[Wile E]

Yeah, but regular coolant doesn't, so why use dexcool?

[cdawall]

Yeah, but regular coolant doesn't, so why use dexcool?

its thinner and was in the garage regular coolant was not :slap: the reports of it hardening up were in cars and only when owners let the coolant level get very low

[Wile E]

I was also a mechanic, and have leftover hate from that as well. It's not all that good.

And come on, regular coolant is less the $5.

[cdawall]

I was also a mechanic, and have leftover hate from that as well. It's not all that good.

And come on, regular coolant is less the $5.

ahh but the trip to go get that coolant is not as easy as just the garage...~40miles round trip is not worth it

[cdawall]

pushing my little sempron that isntalled to around 140w TDP and its temp probe is reading 42C max while runnning wprime 1024


hmmm

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/low temps.png

no frozen lines

[MT Alex]

Can a push/pull setup be used with different fan types? I have 38mm pushers, and would like to add 25mm pulls. I assume they have to be of like speed.

[EastCoasthandle]

Can a push/pull setup be used with different fan types? I have 38mm pushers, and would like to add 25mm pulls. I assume they have to be of like speed.
What you don't want happening is one fan canceling the air pressure from another fan rendering it useless. Even though you can get fans of similar speed it doesn't mean they will perform the same under such conditions.

[MT Alex]

Gotcha.
Would shrouds offer the same amount of gain as going with push/pull?

[cdawall]

question location for a MCR220 stackable...were to put it?

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-17_11-03-57_803.png

i could possibly fit a MCR320 stack in the top but it would cover the ram and make swapping motherboards a PITA

[Cold Storm]

Bottom would work out better..

Swapping boards shouldn't take a person more then 20m.. If it does.. there's something wrong.. That would be one thing.. lol

[cdawall]

Bottom would work out better..

Swapping boards shouldn't take a person more then 20m.. If it does.. there's something wrong.. That would be one thing.. lol

i would have to relocate the lower pump

[MT Alex]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110117/2011-01-16_23-19-46_463.jpg

Based on this pic, either spot should be pretty easy, I always think up top looks sharper. If you mounted your pump in a different spot, wouldn't a trip fit on the bottom, as well?

[cdawall]

Based on this pic, either spot should be pretty easy, I always think up top looks sharper. If you mounted your pump in a different spot, wouldn't a trip fit on the bottom, as well?

it cant fit with the PSU i hit the cables and it doesn't clear

[MT Alex]

Ah so.
What gains did you notice with push/pull as opposed to single side fans?

[cdawall]

Ah so.
What gains did you notice with push/pull as opposed to single side fans?

never ran single fans if i get a chance later i will unplug half of them

[Cold Storm]

i would have to relocate the lower pump

just bolt it to the back wall above the rad..

[EastCoasthandle]

Gotcha.
Would shrouds offer the same amount of gain as going with push/pull?

Shrouds do localize the direction of air flow but having a fan with good air pressure should perform adequately. One thing it does allow is the added space between the fan and the radiator. Which in turn allows the fan to run at it's spec. when that particular fan has issues when butted against grated or finned array. So if the fan is weak in that regard a shroud would help it.

[cdawall]

well i got a MCR220-QP-STACK on its way it is officially shipped now :D had to hunt down a shop on google that had one to get it...even swiftech is out of them.

[cdawall]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110125/2011-01-25_18-38-43_886.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/110125/2011-01-25_18-38-24_519.jpg

mostly installed need to order another 120x38 to swap my 120x25mm fans that are currently installed and a 45 degree fitting. not to bad for about an hour of work putting that stupid rad in


loop now has a combined 120x9 planning on another MCR320QP-stack in the bottom i swear i will squeeze that bastard in

[Velvet Wafer]

looks nice, and the plans sound sweet.... but why the hell do you use that cheap,ugly tubing? :laugh:
surely ruins the looks of an otherwise interesting build ;)
how are the temps with the new rad?

[cdawall]

looks nice, and the plans sound sweet.... but why the hell do you use that cheap,ugly tubing? :laugh:
surely ruins the looks of an otherwise interesting build ;)
how are the temps with the new rad?

its cheap and i have not had a chance to test it yet


here are my plans...

http://img.techpowerup.org/110126/case.png

http://img.techpowerup.org/110126/case2.png

http://img.techpowerup.org/110126/case3.png

very basic 3D cad drawing of it this was kinda thrown together just to get an idea on paper no real dimensions were used

[MT Alex]

mostly installed need to order another 120x38 to swap my 120x25mm fans that are currently installed and a 45 degree fitting. not to bad for about an hour of work putting that stupid rad in

Hell, I have 3 38mm Ultra Kaze 3000s you could have for shipping. They're too damn loud, even on a controller. At low volts they make the little "tick tick tick" common to fans of that nature.

[theyrealllies]

well whaddaya know

[MT Alex]

well whaddaya know

A sack of flour makes a helluva big donut.

[Velvet Wafer]

well whaddaya know

in china, a sack of rice fell over.

[cdawall]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9927/ex-wat-153/Larkooler_Universal_High_Performance_Complete_CPUV GAChipsetMosfet_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_BA2-244_Sockets_LGA_775_1156_1366_754_939_940.html?tl= g30

anyone see this yet?

[Cold Storm]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9927/ex-wat-153/Larkooler_Universal_High_Performance_Complete_CPUV GAChipsetMosfet_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_BA2-244_Sockets_LGA_775_1156_1366_754_939_940.html?tl= g30

anyone see this yet?

it's great for the price. Nice for some noob... But, I still like Ek's cooling kit (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12367/ex-wat-163/Ek_H30_Supreme_HF_240_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_ EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_HF_240.html)

[cdawall]

it's great for the price. Nice for some noob... But, I still like Ek's cooling kit (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12367/ex-wat-163/Ek_H30_Supreme_HF_240_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_ EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_HF_240.html)

way more expensive but a wayyyyyy better kit :toast:

[Cold Storm]

way more expensive but a wayyyyyy better kit :toast:

Yeah, the price can scare some.. but, I just relooked at the Larkooler.. It has Mosfet cooling.. Wonder how well it does.. I like it all but the fans :p

& VGA...

But, I don't know about the CPU cooler.. it seems kinda "small" for what they picture..

[cdawall]

Yeah, the price can scare some.. but, I just relooked at the Larkooler.. It has Mosfet cooling.. Wonder how well it does.. I like it all but the fans :p

& VGA...

But, I don't know about the CPU cooler.. it seems kinda "small" for what they picture..

its probably similar to the old thermaltakes to be honest...you know i looked at the prices and then went through how much my rig cost lol pumps alone retail close to the larkooler cost

[Cold Storm]

its probably similar to the old thermaltakes to be honest...you know i looked at the prices and then went through how much my rig cost lol pumps alone retail close to the larkooler cost

It could very well be a new "therm" build.

I'm thinking of grabbing a the new Koolance D5 Duel res (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/kordu5reforo.html). I think it would be nice in the Pedestal. Right in the middle of the side panel.

[cdawall]

It could very well be a new "therm" build.

I'm thinking of grabbing a the new Koolance D5 Duel res (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/kordu5reforo.html). I think it would be nice in the Pedestal. Right in the middle of the side panel.

god $130 is a bit of a kick in the teeth though!


hey does anyone know were i can find some old 3870X2 blocks i am trying to build some water for my brothers rig

[Cold Storm]

god $130 is a bit of a kick in the teeth though!

Yeah, it is... Thinking of a bay type res now.. Or, doing two loops, and grabbing one (two) of this (these) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2191/ex-res-41/Innovatek_Fass-O-Matic_Barrel_Header_Tank_-_Aluminum_Color_500509.html?tl=g30c97) and playing with the front..

My first build had FrozenQ's res in it.. But, that think leaked all over via the bottom.. Thank god I didn't have it hooked in the case..

[MT Alex]

Well, I noticed a white line of waxy, soap scum feeling jazz on the sides of my 60mm res tube that I just replaced with a 100mm tube, so I want to give my loop a good flushing. I'm thinking it's from the tubing, or from the collodial silver I added to my distilled water.

Should I add some white vinigar to the loop, run it for a while, then flush it out with more distilled water? I've never done it, and was hoping not to have to remove any components from my case.

[t_ski]

IIRC, it was supposed to be a 50/50 mix, but I'll let the others chime in.

[sneekypeet]

either way, straight or 50/50. The mix is easier to clean after, less rinsing, full strength will take more rinsing;)

[MT Alex]

Got it all flushed out, added 3 more GTs (making 7 total), and swapped the 60mm tube on my EK res with a 100mm one for more capacity. It's now whisper quiet. The only thing left is to swap my PSU with a new Seasonic, and probably 3 more GTs on the back of the tripple.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110205/048.jpg

[whitrzac]

my oooold koolance PC2 case....

I need to pick up a few new fans for the radiator, other than that I love it...
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj182/whitrzac/IMG_0813.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj182/whitrzac/IMG_0812.jpg

[cdawall]

new fans :p

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_16-24-53_636.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_16-25-08_753.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_16-25-20_901.jpg

4x delta tfc1212de and 6x VA450DC i think both sets are 220CFM

[MT Alex]

Holy hurricanes, cdawall!!

[cdawall]

Holy hurricanes, cdawall!!

couple of front views

here are some front views

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_17-37-21_672.jpg

nidec on the left delta on the right

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_17-37-29_101.jpg

nidec

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_17-37-33_944.jpg

delta

http://img.techpowerup.org/110207/2011-02-07_17-37-41_296.jpg

all of the fans are 4 pin PWM don't know what the hell can control them but still cool :p

[MT Alex]

Well, I'm pretty damn sure my tripple rad has a slow leak. I dropped the hell out of it while I was flushing my system, right on its top corner. I've filled my res almost 3 times since I posted my last pic on Saturday. I don't think there was that much air to bleed out. No leaks anywhere. Nothing but undistubed dust in the case and around the fittings. I took the fans off last night, nothing I could notice, except the faintest pinhole of shinier metal that may have been wet. Put it all back together, and have had to fill it a bit today.

I'm guessing it is a leak that is slow enough that the fans evaporate the water, so there is no evidence. Sound reasonable? Anyone ever seen this before?

[cdawall]

put some JB weld on it

[Velvet Wafer]

Well, I'm pretty damn sure my tripple rad has a slow leak. I dropped the hell out of it while I was flushing my system, right on its top corner. I've filled my res almost 3 times since I posted my last pic on Saturday. I don't think there was that much air to bleed out. No leaks anywhere. Nothing but undistubed dust in the case and around the fittings. I took the fans off last night, nothing I could notice, except the faintest pinhole of shinier metal that may have been wet. Put it all back together, and have had to fill it a bit today.

I'm guessing it is a leak that is slow enough that the fans evaporate the water, so there is no evidence. Sound reasonable? Anyone ever seen this before?

if the leak is that slow, it will take a few weeks for the water to evaporate in that big amounts... youre sure you just dont missed a lot of air? your setup looks like its not the easiest to bleed! ;)

[MT Alex]

I hope you're right. It's never been so persnickity, and it's going through quite a bit of water. I just went over it again with a flashlight, nothing visible. I'm wondering if the flushing didn't loosen up some junk that plugged a part of one of my rads, so it's taking longer? Anyhow, I'll keep an eye on it and let you know.

[Velvet Wafer]

I hope you're right. It's never been so persnickity, and it's going through quite a bit of water. I just went over it again with a flashlight, nothing visible. I'm wondering if the flushing didn't loosen up some junk that plugged a part of one of my rads, so it's taking longer? Anyhow, I'll keep an eye on it and let you know.

the way your rads are mounted, the backside rad probably traps air bubbles in its top, and needs longer to bleed therefore... the top rad is fine, and shouldnt pose a problem.
Also, if you want to be sure everything is leak free, make the finger test... touch each fitting with index finger and thumb, and feel if everything is dry.... if there is wetness, you probably found your leak ;)

[IndigoGoose]

Brillant thanks i've always wanted to watercool now i understand it a lot more
I will go for it :)

[MT Alex]

Problem solved!! :shadedshu

http://img.techpowerup.org/110209/015.jpg


Like I thought, the fans were mitigating the situation, so I got out an extra PSU and just powered the pump. Took only a few minutes to find the leak. Lucky that it wasn't fast enough to drip on my video card. The vinigar flush must have been a little to harsh for the old timer.

Got it spliced together, at the moment. Looks like I now have an excuse to uprade from the Swifty wafer thin to an XSPC.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110209/020.jpg

[cdawall]

i like my MCR's :) i will take your old rad if you dont want it tho

[MT Alex]

Ha! I actually thought you might while I was pulling it. I'll let you know:)

My idle temps aren't that much different. I'll have to check after some BC2. I don't think it was doing me much good. Looks like some nasty stuff coming out, as well. The guy I bought it from used coolant.

[cdawall]

Ha! I actually thought you might while I was pulling it. I'll let you know:)

My idle temps aren't that much different. I'll have to check after some BC2. I don't think it was doing me much good. Looks like some nasty stuff coming out, as well. The guy I bought it from used coolant.

i use dexcool but thats car coolant. considering how many watts your loop puts out i am surprised the single 320 holds the temps...

look into this one as well or a coolgate

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrx2xrare2.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12483/ex-rad-204/Coolgate_Dual_120mm_Ultimate_Heat_Exchanger_Radiat or_CG240.html?tl=g30c95s160

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12369/ex-rad-198/EK_CoolStream_240_XT_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Radiato r_EK-CoolStream_RAD_XT_240.html?tl=g30c95s160

that being said i do have a MCR220 (but its the stackable 4 barb model)

[Velvet Wafer]

Problem solved!! :shadedshu

http://img.techpowerup.org/110209/015.jpg


Like I thought, the fans were mitigating the situation, so I got out an extra PSU and just powered the pump. Took only a few minutes to find the leak. Lucky that it wasn't fast enough to drip on my video card. The vinigar flush must have been a little to harsh for the old timer.

Got it spliced together, at the moment. Looks like I now have an excuse to uprade from the Swifty wafer thin to an XSPC.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110209/020.jpg

Hefty Stuff there MT!
i guess i was terribly wrong :(
I would have never thought that the performance of the GTs would be big enough to continously dry the leak, and i wouldnt have thought that vinegar could damage a rad that bad... it must have been the vinegar, as there is nothing that would damage the fins otherwise, except maybe physical damage during the cleanup.
How long would you guess did it took, till the first drop formed, without the fans?

[jellyrole]

Hell, I have 3 38mm Ultra Kaze 3000s you could have for shipping. They're too damn loud, even on a controller. At low volts they make the little "tick tick tick" common to fans of that nature.

Did he take you up on that offer?:p

http://i56.tinypic.com/287fxud.jpg

[MT Alex]

look into this one as well or a coolgate

Thanks for the leg work. I went with the XSPC from Sidewinder. The EK looked tempting, especially the price, but was 10mm narrower. For some reason, I have always gotten my jazz from PPC, mostly for the selection, but I have heard good things about the owner, Gary, around these parts.

How long would you guess did it took, till the first drop formed, without the fans?

Just long enough to take the four screws out of my rad box, tip my back tripple rad on its back and shake it around to see if there was anymore air, and put it back on. five minutes, tops. Then I grabbed my flashlight and noticed a drop hanging from a blade of the GT, and a drip on the back of my 5870:eek:. I was damn surprised. No screw punctures from being too long mounting the fans, just a failure right in the middle.

Did he take you up on that offer?:p

Yup:)

I like the black and white. Nice looking rig.

It's hard to say for sure, since I had a slow leak, but I think my old Panflos at around 1200rpm performed better than my new GTs at 1850rpm, and were pretty damn quiet.

[erocker]

I bought some Koolance quick disconnects today.. Man they're expensive. 60 bucks for male and female for two hoses. It's going to make taking things apart sooo much easier though.

Male: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28308

Female: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28307

[MT Alex]

It will probably make the tacklebox rad even more handy. I've thought about getting some and stashing my rads in my crawl space. Maybe someday.

[Velvet Wafer]

Just long enough to take the four screws out of my rad box, tip my back tripple rad on its back and shake it around to see if there was anymore air, and put it back on. five minutes, tops. Then I grabbed my flashlight and noticed a drop hanging from a blade of the GT, and a drip on the back of my 5870:eek:. I was damn surprised. No screw punctures from being too long mounting the fans, just a failure right in the middle.

sounds like its a miniature leak, more like a crack in the copper, than a fullgrown hole.The vinegar probably gave it the rest. Im glad tho, you found your problem, would have sucked to loose hundred of $ for nothing ;)

[20mmrain]

new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now )

But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump???? If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.

BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it :)

[erocker]

new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now )

But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump???? If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.

BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it :)

I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.

[20mmrain]

I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.

Thanx for the quick response Erocker. Yeah I did that....with the fan upgrade already. Well let me bounce a couple of ideas off you remember still new to water cooling more or less.

1. The other radiator I have sitting around now because I upgraded it......If I added it to the current loop would that lower temps even more? Or would that be over kill or would it cause even more problems. Like worse temps. For example my setup goes.... Pump>CPU Block>Rad>Res ... If I did something like this would it help??? Pump>Rad>Block>Rad>Res

2. So you think a higher flow might help? For example right now I am pushing 750ml if I got like a 900Ml pump would it have a higher flow of water meaning moving the heated liquid away quicker?

3. Right now I am at a low middle end block. Do the higher end blocks produce that much better results that they are priced that high? Or are they just over priced.

4. Last question.... would there be any difference switching tube from 7/16 to 1/2. Or would there be very little like I suspect?

BTW
Hell Yeah Go Green Bay Packers!!!

[MT Alex]

1. Loop order really doesn't matter, because after awhile your water will reach and equilibrium temperature. More radiator surface area is always good, although it may mean you just keep similar temperatures for even longer before the water is saturated with heat. You are always constricted by ambient temperatures. It would, however, allow you to add your gpu to the loop, which usually is more drastic of a reduction in temps than the cpu.
2. There are two schools of thought. One says squirt the water as fast as you can, the other says moderate speed lets the water stay in the rads for longer to leach out more heat. Not sure which, I always adjust my pump to the quietest setting.
3. Not much difference between ultra fancy and mid range blocks, within a handfull of degrees.
4. As far as I have heard, ID has little effect on overall performance. A lot of people think the smaller tubing looks nicer.


EDIT: My temps haven't altered all that much since losing my top rad, even though I just shelled out $70 for a new one. Makes me wonder how much good the old one was doing, I'm hoping for marked improvment from the XSPC. These are my temps after about 35 minutes of BC2. Used to max around 44, although it's pretty cool in the room now at 75 degrees. Usually around 80ish in the winter, due to the wood stove. I'm sure they would get higher with longer play time.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110210/Untitled.jpg

[Velvet Wafer]

new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now )

But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump???? If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.

BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it :)
I guess if you want lower temps, there are things that can be done... question is, what a few C are worth to you. for me, they are very important, for example... so i guess i make 2 options you now have, in my opinion:
1. The efficient, cheaper way, probably the most realistic one for you too:
Change the Pump, add both Rads you have to the loop
(more surface will never hurt, i guess my huge ass rad proves that.;))
and change the fans to something beefier, 1700-2000rpm+ push fans
(Magmas, Silverstone 1202, Scythe GT and anything that is similar to a San Ace/Delta fan, on a controller or undervolted)
and 1200-1500rpm pull fans should produce a nice result, tempwise, and also shouldnt be too loud. The Temp drop should be also relatively significant, even if not yaw dropping, in comparance from the jump from mediocre air to good water.

2. Go full bore,eventually WC the board and the GPU, get yourself a HK 3.0 CU or LT,
1 or 2 Pumps with about Laing strenght, a MORA-3 9x120, and full Delta/San Ace/EBM-Papst Push/Pull... should give minimum 10c better load temps on an averagely hot Phenom 2,maybe even more like 15,dependant on the proc, and probably much, much more on an i7.
:D

for me, there was also a third option, i got an old, used, but besides small damages relatively good shaped heatercore, from a 25 year old Renault Espace (Still 100% copper, besides the Steel framing).....4cm thick, 6x3 120mm Fans tall and wide, and about 9-10kilos of copper and about 1 kilo of steel frame. i just had to pay a few € to buy some glasfiber-resin, to fix the crack in the inlet.
I also got me a Laing and a EK Res used in the forums from a very nice UK lad, for a deadly good price...sometimes it happens;) Because it was a modern, blue impellered Laing DDC
(with a clear square OClabs top tho)
I popped it open, bridged the solder pad, so it became a Laing DDC+
(same electronic and parts, blue Laing DDC are in fact just artificially crippled, by not making the last solder step in the production)
the Heatkiller 4870x2 LT, i got as open box from Aquatuning.com, for 50€, it had fingermarks and discolorations all over it,and a few nuts were missing but after a good scrub with Ketchup and Vinegar-essence, and a few minutes of search in my nut and screwbox, the block was as good as new ;)
The 18 EBM Papst 24v industrial grade Fans, a Friend gifted me, even tho i admit, that was just very big luck and never intended.One Day i woke up, due to the weight of 12 Fans my Buddy threw at me,in a sack, smiling and laughing.:laugh:

I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.
i agree with 2 of your 3 statements:
that better fans and a better pump would help.
but in my opinion, dependant on the budget and enthusiasm of 20MM rain, there are still a bunch of degress left, till (nearly) room temperature is reached.
Also,Ventilation, in my opinion, is 50% of your cooling, from the Experience with my big rad in my badly ventilated room.
If your room is ventilated well, your rigs will be much cooler, logically;)

[20mmrain]

I guess if you want lower temps, there are things that can be done... question is, what a few C are worth to you. for me, they are very important, for example... so i guess i make 2 options you now have, in my opinion:
1. The efficient, cheaper way, probably the most realistic one for you too:
Change the Pump, add both Rads you have to the loop
(more surface will never hurt, i guess my huge ass rad proves that.;))
and change the fans to something beefier, 1700-2000rpm+ push fans
(Magmas, Silverstone 1202, Scythe GT and anything that is similar to a San Ace/Delta fan, on a controller or undervolted)
and 1200-1500rpm pull fans should produce a nice result, tempwise, and also shouldnt be too loud. The Temp drop should be also relatively significant, even if not yaw dropping, in comparance from the jump from mediocre air to good water.

2. Go full bore,eventually WC the board and the GPU, get yourself a HK 3.0 CU or LT,
1 or 2 Pumps with about Laing strenght, a MORA-3 9x120, and full Delta/San Ace/EBM-Papst Push/Pull... should give minimum 10c better load temps on an averagely hot Phenom 2,maybe even more like 15,dependant on the proc, and probably much, much more on an i7.
:D

for me, there was also a third option, i got an old, used, but besides small damages relatively good shaped heatercore, from a 25 year old Renault Espace (Still 100% copper, besides the Steel framing).....4cm thick, 6x3 120mm Fans tall and wide, and about 9-10kilos of copper and about 1 kilo of steel frame. i just had to pay a few € to buy some glasfiber-resin, to fix the crack in the inlet.
I also got me a Laing and a EK Res used in the forums from a very nice UK lad, for a deadly good price...sometimes it happens;) Because it was a modern, blue impellered Laing DDC
(with a clear square OClabs top tho)
I popped it open, bridged the solder pad, so it became a Laing DDC+
(same electronic and parts, blue Laing DDC are in fact just artificially crippled, by not making the last solder step in the production)
the Heatkiller 4870x2 LT, i got as open box from Aquatuning.com, for 50€, it had fingermarks and discolorations all over it,and a few nuts were missing but after a good scrub with Ketchup and Vinegar-essence, and a few minutes of search in my nut and screwbox, the block was as good as new ;)
The 18 EBM Papst 24v industrial grade Fans, a Friend gifted me, even tho i admit, that was just very big luck and never intended.One Day i woke up, due to the weight of 12 Fans my Buddy threw at me,in a sack, smiling and laughing.:laugh:


i agree with 2 of your 3 statements:
that better fans and a better pump would help.
but in my opinion, dependant on the budget and enthusiasm of 20MM rain, there are still a bunch of degress left, till (nearly) room temperature is reached.
Also,Ventilation, in my opinion, is 50% of your cooling, from the Experience with my big rad in my badly ventilated room.
If your room is ventilated well, your rigs will be much cooler, logically;)

1. Loop order really doesn't matter, because after awhile your water will reach and equilibrium temperature. More radiator surface area is always good, although it may mean you just keep similar temperatures for even longer before the water is saturated with heat. You are always constricted by ambient temperatures. It would, however, allow you to add your gpu to the loop, which usually is more drastic of a reduction in temps than the cpu.
2. There are two schools of thought. One says squirt the water as fast as you can, the other says moderate speed lets the water stay in the rads for longer to leach out more heat. Not sure which, I always adjust my pump to the quietest setting.
3. Not much difference between ultra fancy and mid range blocks, within a handfull of degrees.
4. As far as I have heard, ID has little effect on overall performance. A lot of people think the smaller tubing looks nicer.


EDIT: My temps haven't altered all that much since losing my top rad, even though I just shelled out $70 for a new one. Makes me wonder how much good the old one was doing, I'm hoping for marked improvment from the XSPC. These are my temps after about 35 minutes of BC2. Used to max around 44, although it's pretty cool in the room now at 75 degrees. Usually around 80ish in the winter, due to the wood stove. I'm sure they would get higher with longer play time.


__________________

You guys both have given me some really great information and I really appreciate it. I guess I have just a couple more questions.

Velvet Wafer 1. You mentioned 2000+ RPM Push fans.... which I have. But my question lies in the way you said it. "Push fans" have you found it better to just push the air through the Rad apposed to a Push/Pull config?

Next question for anyone 2.... Static pressure.... is there a minimum I should be looking for in a fan?

Last 3. With my Rad on the back I have the air flow as follows.....

http://forums.techpowerup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40586&stc=1&d=1297359575

The reason I did the rad this way was to deflect the hot air coming from the video cards. The rad does not sit exactly above the video card exhausts but close enough that i don't know how it would effect the temps.

So my question is.... which way for airflow.... the way I have it or do you think I might benefit from switching it around???

[Velvet Wafer]

1. You mentioned 2000+ RPM Push fans.... which I have. But my question lies in the way you said it. "Push fans" have you found it better to just push the air through the Rad apposed to a Push/Pull config?

Next question for anyone 2.... Static pressure.... is there a minimum I should be looking for in a fan?

Last 3. With my Rad on the back I have the air flow as follows.....

The reason I did the rad this way was to deflect the hot air coming from the video cards. The rad does not sit exactly above the video card exhausts but close enough that i don't know how it would effect the temps.

So my question is.... which way for airflow.... the way I have it or do you think I might benefit from switching it around???
No, Push/Pull is definetly the preferred option, but not certainly necessary, if your push fans are very strong...would be for price efficieny, not for maximum performance in that case ;)

I wouldnt trust the most ratings for static pressure on fans, often they are way off, very overestimated. I have a good bunch of Fans here, and those that have high pressure at low RPM nearly always have exotic, often upwards tilted blade designs.
Enermax Magma,white Silverstone 1202, EBM Papst... probably also Noctua, San Ace, Delta and the like, even tho i didnt owned one of them till now (Designs are often similar, so is the Performance)
Generally you could say, the fewer the blades,the more RPM and the more agressive the upwards angle of them, the higher the pressure the Fan should produce ;)

In my opinion, good push fans are the Enermax Magmas for sub-2000 RPM, any 2000 RPM+ fan that fits your purse, and if you want to invest in something durable and variable, a few Delta-like fans, preferably under 4000 RPM, 3500 would be fine in my opinion.

I guess you could turn the Fans around to pull air from the direction of the case, if you would install a small selfmade duct, that would ensure, that all the hot air from the VGAs gets directed to the ground, and not upwards :)

[MT Alex]

As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans. Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.

[Velvet Wafer]

As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans. Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.

True!
and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard:)

[cdawall]

True!
and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard:)

Cough nidec cough

[20mmrain]

No, Push/Pull is definetly the preferred option, but not certainly necessary, if your push fans are very strong...would be for price efficieny, not for maximum performance in that case ;)

I wouldnt trust the most ratings for static pressure on fans, often they are way off, very overestimated. I have a good bunch of Fans here, and those that have high pressure at low RPM nearly always have exotic, often upwards tilted blade designs.
Enermax Magma,white Silverstone 1202, EBM Papst... probably also Noctua, San Ace, Delta and the like, even tho i didnt owned one of them till now (Designs are often similar, so is the Performance)
Generally you could say, the fewer the blades,the more RPM and the more agressive the upwards angle of them, the higher the pressure the Fan should produce ;)

In my opinion, good push fans are the Enermax Magmas for sub-2000 RPM, any 2000 RPM+ fan that fits your purse, and if you want to invest in something durable and variable, a few Delta-like fans, preferably under 4000 RPM, 3500 would be fine in my opinion.

I guess you could turn the Fans around to pull air from the direction of the case, if you would install a small selfmade duct, that would ensure, that all the hot air from the VGAs gets directed to the ground, and not upwards :)

As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans. Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.

Thanks for your responses guys. I appreciate all of your answers and I believe everything you gave me will assist in my next expensive and inexpensive upgrades to my Loop... and soon in the future loops.

My Next short term upgrade will be a better block and low Noise but high pressure fan. My longer term upgrade will be another loop to cool my cards for all around better temps in my case and just in general. As far as long term upgrade to my Current CPU loop.... I will upgrade the Pump and Rad but since what I have right now is not bad that will be my longer term goal with my current loop.

So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get? I have some Delta fans already but the noise from those bad boys are horrible. One of the reasons I went to water cooling was besides better performance.... less noise. When your equipment is starting to creat so much heat and the only way to control it is to have fans that are as loud as a jet that is a problem. So any suggestions on what you would buy if you had to buy a fan with these qualifications today???

Thanks again! :toast:

[MT Alex]

True!
and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard:)

Cough nidec cough

You both are right. Those are also some damn nice fans. I left out Delta and Nidec because they sound like vacuum cleaners:laugh:

So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get?

Well, I have bought 7 Gentle Typhoons this month:D The 1450rpms are almost totally silent, and the 1850s are pretty damn quiet as well. The GT 1450s are in push/pull, I don't think they would do as well with just two.


That being said, I still love the Panflo L1s I just swapped out with the GTs. They actually performed the same at about 12-1300rpms and were about the same noise level. Nice thing about those was that if something got hot, I could crank them to 1700rpm and things would cool off quickly.

If I were buying just two fans, to work in all situations, I think I'd go with the Panflo L1s. If I were buying 4 for push/pull, I'd go with the GT 1850s and a fan controller. I do anything I can to avoid noise.

EDIT: Hell, I forgot I have a Youtube vid of the noise from the Panflos. I took it for ERazer who, incidentally, uses GTs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-_3_4AIVBk

[20mmrain]

You both are right. Those are also some damn nice fans. I left out Delta and Nidec because they sound like vacuum cleaners:laugh:



Well, I have bought 7 Gentle Typhoons this month:D The 1450rpms are almost totally silent, and the 1850s are pretty damn quiet as well. The GT 1450s are in push/pull, I don't think they would do as well with just two.


That being said, I still love the Panflo L1s I just swapped out with the GTs. They actually performed the same at about 12-1300rpms and were about the same noise level. Nice thing about those was that if something got hot, I could crank them to 1700rpm and things would cool off quickly.

If I were buying just two fans, to work in all situations, I think I'd go with the Panflo L1s. If I were buying 4 for push/pull, I'd go with the GT 1850s and a fan controller. I do anything I can to avoid noise.

EDIT: Hell, I forgot I have a Youtube vid of the noise from the Panflos. I took it for ERazer who, incidentally, uses GTs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-_3_4AIVBk

Hey thanks man nice and informative!!! I will definitely look those up when I get a chance tomorrow! Nice video too!

Thos fans weren't bad at all even at top speed! Mega thanx again!! :toast:

After thought.....

I was looking through my spare fans and I came across these. They were given to me for free and I know nothing about them. The brand name is.... Sunon. According to on store online they run @ 3100RPM but only have a Noise level of 41DBA would you believe it??? Here they are...

http://www.aerocooler.com/shop.cart?action=ITEM&prod_id=FANSU1238

That seems too quiet for that speed. Or is it because they are 120mm x 38mm would that have a effect on their sound??? I can hook them and find out myself but i just thought yo might know off the top of your head.

[Velvet Wafer]

Cough nidec cough

They are performant, but sadly i dont like the looks of them. could be a cheap alternative for noise resistant Enthusiasts tho ;)



So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get? I have some Delta fans already but the noise from those bad boys are horrible. One of the reasons I went to water cooling was besides better performance.... less noise. When your equipment is starting to creat so much heat and the only way to control it is to have fans that are as loud as a jet that is a problem. So any suggestions on what you would buy if you had to buy a fan with these qualifications today???

Thanks again! :toast:
I would never buy me anything High Performant again, except EBM-Papst fans.
They simply impressed me with their power and quality, even tho, that quality has a price. compared to them, even a delta is cheap.
There are a lot of similar performing fans, but most of them click at low RPM. These wont. ;)
Also, the Blade Design is FAR more superior than any kind of blade design i have seen on 38mm fans before. The Blade has up and downwards protruding Winglets, and between the blade and the fan casing, there are probably less than 2mm space, the fan is VERY tightx


I was looking through my spare fans and I came across these. They were given to me for free and I know nothing about them. The brand name is.... Sunon. According to on store online they run @ 3100RPM but only have a Noise level of 41DBA would you believe it???

That seems too quiet for that speed. Or is it because they are 120mm x 38mm would that have a effect on their sound??? I can hook them and find out myself but i just thought yo might know off the top of your head.
Sounds like you found a good Rad fan, they should be a bit noisy tho, from my knowledge.
Try them at 5, 7 and 12v, and find the speed/noise level you like... if they dont annoy you, they should be fine, and that would save you money :)

[whitrzac]

does anyone have a recommendation on a few(3) 80mm fans for a koolance PC2 radiator? the ones I have now are old, loud, and move _____ for air....

[MT Alex]

I'm not sure there is such a thing as a "quiet" 80mm fan. Look for one with double ball bearings or fluid dynamic bearings for lower noise and higher quality. A lot of people like Scythe S-Flex fans for rads in the 120mm flavor, I notice they have an 80mm version, also: Scythe S-FLEX SFF80D 80mm Case Fan (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185127). These also look nice: Zaward ZG2-080B 80mm P.W.M. Case Fan (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835427003). Sorry, I don't know much about 80mm fans.

[MT Alex]

A pleasant surprise, my new rad showed up today. Gary at Sidewinder got it off early on Thursday, so I am really happy I decided to order from him. Good shopkeeper. Anyhow, had to come up with some mounting ideas, since it is so much thicker than the old one. Turned out pretty good, although I'm going to have to mod the top. Maybe. XSPC markets the RX as a two fan rad, and I guess they are right. Makes a funny windtunnel noise in push/pull. Still a lot of air in the loop, but surprisingly, as well as disappointedly, temps are damn near exactly what they were with just the tripple!?! I'm hopefull that when it's all bled I will see some gains.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110213/015.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/110213/017.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/110213/023.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/110213/024.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/110213/026.jpg

[zhadlp]

Here are some old pics of my humble rig, hopefully you won't get angry if you find it ugly :)

I'm actually waiting for my new casing (lian-li pc-a04) and I'll be modding that one to fit a 2x120mm and 1x120mm rad, and I'll also change to white xspc 3/8id 5/8od tubings since I find the 7/16 to large for that matx case :)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/2.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/1.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/5.jpg

[Cold Storm]

MT Alex, yeah, he's a great guy.

Nice case Zhadlp

[20mmrain]

Here are some old pics of my humble rig, hopefully you won't get angry if you find it ugly :)

I'm actually waiting for my new casing (lian-li pc-a04) and I'll be modding that one to fit a 2x120mm and 1x120mm rad, and I'll also change to white xspc 3/8id 5/8od tubings since I find the 7/16 to large for that matx case :)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/2.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/1.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/zhadlp/5.jpg

Nice case.... I just went Lian li myself although I went with PC-V1020

[zhadlp]

There's only 1 local supplier in the country though, and stocks won't arrive until feb 25, so it's gonna take a while before I get what I paid for :(...

I just received the bezel, replacement case feets, and some powdercoated mesh the other day for the mods I have in mind though, so I can't wait to get my hands on the case itself, hehehe :D

[cdawall]

@MT with my top mounted rads i had to flip the case on its back and top to fill it

[IndigoGoose]

Bump!!

[MT Alex]

Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient. Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above. Does this suggest that I need a better block? Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX. Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.

Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop? I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump. I ditched my 655 vario for it.

[Velvet Wafer]

Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient. Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above. Does this suggest that I need a better block? Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX. Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.

Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop? I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump. I ditched my 655 vario for it.

the tdx is a nice block... but it was originally designed in socket 939 days (i also have one which cools my delidded 3800+ 939 fairly good)
i guess you need a high performance block, with modern jet impingement design, like a Heatkiller 3.0, and EK Supreme, Koolance 360 or so, and it also can be that your pump limits you... i can tell from experience ordinary laings are a good choice, as you can mod each standard laing with blue impeller, to a laing ultra, which is fairly quiet also, but packs more punch than your pump i think:)

[t_ski]

you can mod each standard laing with blue impeller, to a laing ultra, which is fairly quiet also, but packs more punch than your pump i think:)

Mod the Laing D5?

[MT Alex]

I'm pretty sure he is referring to the solder mod that will change some 350s to 18v 355s.

[cdawall]

Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient. Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above. Does this suggest that I need a better block? Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX. Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.

Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop? I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump. I ditched my 655 vario for it.

it is more than likely the waterblock i ran an old maze 4 for a while and the dtek fuzion v1 i have is a good upgrade with a jet in it it gets better temps too.

[MT Alex]

Heck, I have an old v1, with all of the nozzles. I upgraged, or so I thought, to the DD. To be clear, it is the newer MC (mulit-core) TDX with all the pins, not the old standard TDX. Gee whiz. It's always something. I thought I was finally going to have my loop just the way I wanted:ohwell:

http://img.techpowerup.org/110220/mc-tdx-AM2-top-600w.jpg

[cdawall]

The fuzion lookls like its got a bigged chamber in itt...

[MT Alex]

Which nozzle is best in the v1, the one with the single stripe in the middle? I might dig mine out.

[cdawall]

Nope that's the quad core insert the 2nd smallest insert is what was recommended to me

[SonDa5]

My first custom loop that I built myself.


Loopy Silverstone Raven.

http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/LoopyRavenP45JR.jpg

[sneekypeet]

I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.;)

[Velvet Wafer]

I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.;)

angled barbs FTW! :toast:

[sneekypeet]

yes a couple 45* fittings would make his life much easier.

[t_ski]

Tubing is one place where kinky is bad :pimp:

[Cold Storm]

Sonda, looks good besides that one little thing..

after seeing that.. I can't wait for my raven build to be finished.

:toast:

[Velvet Wafer]

Tubing is one place where kinky is bad :pimp:

flexibility is wanted in both tho:p

[SonDa5]

I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.;)



It's not kinked. I put a coil of solid 12AWG insulated wire around the tubing for the bend to keep the tubing open.

I don't think flow is a problem with the number of bends on the tubing as much as I think the flow would be hindered by radiators and blocks. Overall though the flow seems very good to me.

[SonDa5]

Sonda, looks good besides that one little thing..

after seeing that.. I can't wait for my raven build to be finished.

:toast:



Thanks. I had originally planned to run the block with a DFI X58JR but I had to send the MB in for RMA because it had a problem with C1 error after sticking some new ram in it. Once the X58 comes back I will have a little mor clearance between the MB block and the CPU block and the 12 gauge solid wire coil will come off.

For now I'm running my DFI P45 JR mb. Flow seems to be very good.

[SonDa5]

yes a couple 45* fittings would make his life much easier.



I thought about getting a few of them but decided to stick with straight in barbs and let the tubing do the bending.

How do you tighten the 45* barbs and set it tightly right where you want it?

[sneekypeet]

the bitspower 45 degree rotary fittings i have have a knurled collar that tightens to the threads, then the 45* bend moves independently.
http://www.crazypc.com/images/coolers/watercooling/accessories/bitspowerbarbs/bitspower45full.jpg

[SonDa5]

the bitspower 45 degree rotary fittings i have have a knurled collar that tightens to the threads, then the 45* bend moves independently.
http://www.crazypc.com/images/coolers/watercooling/accessories/bitspowerbarbs/bitspower45full.jpg


Thanks. I may end up getting some if needed.

[Wile E]

MEh. I just use zip ties to kill kinks. Way cheaper than bitpower rotary fittings. lol.

[sneekypeet]

yes but you also hold your pump to the chassis with duct tape;) :roll:

He is right though, they do work well and if one isn't enough, more always helps.

[Wile E]

yes but you also hold your pump to the chassis with duct tape;) :roll:

He is right though, they do work well and if one isn't enough, more always helps.

What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.

At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.

[sneekypeet]

What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.

At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.

I wasn't hating;) If I wasn't so OCD I could save a lot of loot with some "engineering":roll:

[Velvet Wafer]

What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.

At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.

Did you just critisized yourself, Wile?
Seems like Eastern and Christmas fell on the same day this year! :laugh:
i admit tho, i also tend to just make it work... not look beautiful... but i wasnt raised by Rednecks, as they are a local phenomenon of the US :D

[IndigoGoose]

My first custom loop that I built myself.

Woow your loop looks amazing almost like you've had years of experience nice one mate :toast:

[SonDa5]

Woow your loop looks amazing almost like you've had years of experience nice one mate :toast:



I thought about this loop for a long time and got alot of ideas from those who have been doing it for years. Thanks for the compliment. I'm a newbie at custom water cooling. :)

[Cold Storm]

Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...

This is where I'm at on my raven.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb119/Coldstorm84/_3254319.jpg

There is enough space I can move that 120 to the right, and not have a problem with hiding cables/tubing on the left of it.

Also, Going to pop the back panel off, and swap it around so the psu is at the bottom. Along with cutting the bottom for a psu.

[Velvet Wafer]

Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...

This is where I'm at on my raven.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb119/Coldstorm84/_3254319.jpg

There is enough space I can move that 120 to the right, and not have a problem with hiding cables/tubing on the left of it.

Also, Going to pop the back panel off, and swap it around so the psu is at the bottom. Along with cutting the bottom for a psu.

may i ask, whats that thing above the PSU? i kept puzzling since 2 days, but i cant seem to find a plausible answer.. may you enlighten me? :)

[Cold Storm]

may i ask, whats that thing above the PSU? i kept puzzling since 2 days, but i cant seem to find a plausible answer.. may you enlighten me? :)

Danger Den Monsoon Bay Res.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb119/Coldstorm84/_3254316.jpg


I am going to make a plate for the top, since I got so much aluminum 5052 right now.. That way, when I need to fill, it'll be easy to pull down and fill..

[Velvet Wafer]

Danger Den Monsoon Bay Res.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb119/Coldstorm84/_3254316.jpg


I am going to make a plate for the top, since I got so much aluminum 5052 right now.. That way, when I need to fill, it'll be easy to pull down and fill..

is the pump integrated? from the looks, i would say that is a Laing D5 mounted to that,right?:)

[Cold Storm]

is the pump integrated? from the looks, i would say that is a Laing D5 mounted to that,right?:)

Yeah, it's a D5.. The only thing I hate about it... I had to cut my sleeving job to use it. You have to have one cord go from one side, and another cord come out of the other side of it..


Meaning:

Separating the power cords from each other... I'll rewire the cable, and it'll be all good. But, I just hate having to do that.. I've all ready shortened the cable..

[20mmrain]

Up date On my WC Project.... (Sorry for the crummy Pics.) But I installed almost all new Hardware Plus Now added Cards too Loop.

Things still to add.....
Front 2x140mm Rad
5.25 Bay Res (Instead of the Micro Res or remount the micro Res Else were)
Full Card Blocks (If they ever release for the 6950 1gb)
45 Degree/90 Degree Fittings.
Add in the second pump I have sitting here
Maybe split the loop in to two

Any suggestions from some water cooling guru's like your selves would be helpful!!!

But as it is Getting really great temps on a single loop....
i7 2600k @ 4.5 Ghz 53c 100% LinX Load
41c On 6950's 100% Furmark Load
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41365&stc=1&d=1301315533
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41366&stc=1&d=1301315611
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41367&stc=1&d=1301315663

[gumpty]

Full Card Blocks (If they ever release for the 6950 1gb)

Have you tried asking EK if their 6970 V2 blocks (http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-6xx0-series/ek-fc6970-v2-acetal-nickel.html) will fit? Their V1 blocks were for reference cards and fitted both 6970 & 6950, so it's possible it might work.

[SonDa5]

Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...



Both rad's are Hardware labs black ice GT Gen 2 stealths.

Top is 1x120mm and bottom is 3x120mm. Fans are 120mmx38mm Scythe Kaze. I have a front bay controller for the fans. The fans are all set up to pull. I left the stock air filter system in place in the bottom and removed the stock 180mm fans. I have yet to see how my temps are. Testing for leaks over the last 2 days. Going to get it up and running today and play with it.

[Cold Storm]

Thanks Son. I was thinking about just getting stealths, but I'll stick with my quad and I am just in debate on what "other rad" to grab..

I removed it all.. I'll cut area for the rad on the bottom, and add a covering for what area "I don't use".

[20mmrain]

Have you tried asking EK if their 6970 V2 blocks (http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-6xx0-series/ek-fc6970-v2-acetal-nickel.html) will fit? Their V1 blocks were for reference cards and fitted both 6970 & 6950, so it's possible it might work.

No I have not asked yet.... But from what I under stand aren't the Vregs on the other side??? But I will give it a shot.

[SonDa5]

Up and running. :cool:

http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/P45JRLOOPYRAVENSYSTEMGO.jpg

[SonDa5]

A few more angles.



http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/LoopRavenBigPictureLoopsmall.jpg




http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/RavenLoopPumpLocationlowerfrontviewsmall.jpg


http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/LoopRavenFrontBayViewPumpsmall.jpg

[Cold Storm]

Looking good Son.

:toast:

[EastCoasthandle]

ThermalFins (http://hw-lab.com/thermalfins-a-new-contribution-to-watercooling.html)

[Velvet Wafer]

ThermalFins (http://hw-lab.com/thermalfins-a-new-contribution-to-watercooling.html)
Nice work again, from my fellow Countrymen!
Finally something different in the Rad sector, cant wait for performance tests with one of these babies! :D

[Ross211]

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/rmartin311/PC%20Hardware%20Photos/Cooler%20Master%20HAF%20932/S6301438.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/rmartin311/PC%20Hardware%20Photos/Cooler%20Master%20HAF%20932/S6301398.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/rmartin311/PC%20Hardware%20Photos/Cooler%20Master%20HAF%20932/S6301388-1.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/rmartin311/PC%20Hardware%20Photos/Cooler%20Master%20HAF%20932/S6301385-1.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t215/rmartin311/PC%20Hardware%20Photos/Cooler%20Master%20HAF%20932/S6301383.jpg

[MT Alex]

I really like that fillport. The other jazz looks great, too:)

Is that a gardening hose Y?

[Ross211]

I really like that fillport. The other jazz looks great, too:)

Is that a gardening hose Y?

Ha nope it's a Bitspower Silver shining Y-Block (http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-Silver-shining-Y-Block-with-three-IG-1-4-BP-YB-pr-4393.html)

It's the only "bling" I have in my loop :pimp:

[watercooled]

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/xx279/watercooled2/SNC15578.jpg

[grunt_408]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110514/IMGP3935.jpg

[t_ski]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110514/IMGP3935.jpg

Fixt

[grunt_408]

Its a little dirty. That for the WC gear that I have is the best config. believe me I have tried everything possible :P

[Yukikaze]

A few more angles.
http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/LoopRavenBigPictureLoopsmall.jpg


*Jaw drops*

That's just beautiful SonDa5!

Here's my 975's new loop:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020859.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020854.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020853.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020863.jpg

[whitrzac]

speaking of garden hose... someone NEEDS to do that:roll:

[Velvet Wafer]

speaking of garden hose... someone NEEDS to do that:roll:
you have to go quite a few pages back, but CDAwall has done it before to a 754 rig, if im not wrong;)

[mlee49]

Everyone with their internal loops, some day I'll build a loop justifiable to the God's of WC.

A 9x140 Mora 3 pushed with 18 140 mm Noiseblockers and dual Iwaki's. 4 GTX 680 blocks, Full board block, Supreme Nickle plated with custom carbon fiber wrap(thanks CS), EK ram block; Carbon wrapped tubes, multiple separate power supplies(all custom sleeving), ....


Too much to think of now, I'll be back when I have 5 grand.

[MT Alex]

http://img.techpowerup.org/110514/IMGP3935.jpg

Nice!

Did the board blocks you bought and had to clean the hell out of end up to be junk?

[Velvet Wafer]

Everyone with their internal loops, some day I'll build a loop justifiable to the God's of WC.

A 9x140 Mora 3 pushed with 18 140 mm Noiseblockers and dual Iwaki's. 4 GTX 680 blocks, Full board block, Supreme Nickle plated with custom carbon fiber wrap(thanks CS), EK ram block; Carbon wrapped tubes, multiple separate power supplies(all custom sleeving), ....


Too much to think of now, I'll be back when I have 5 grand.

you also want to join the 18 fans up club? :p

[MRCL]

you also want to join the 18 fans up club? :p

Which automatically enlarges your e-peen 18 times?
By the way good to see you're still alive, Velvet :p

[Velvet Wafer]

Which automatically enlarges your e-peen 18 times?
By the way good to see you're still alive, Velvet :p

Depends on what Fan you use.... Kismet meant it good with me regarding that, luckily.:D
A friend gifted me an EBM Papst Fan Array, which is more expensive than my whole loop is.... :laugh:
i would have never been able to actually pay that;)
Good to see you alive too! Im mostly to be found inside the Phenoms OC thread atm,if you wonder where i reside on TPU;)

[MT Alex]

I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room. So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on. Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/008.jpg

I also got a new beasty pump since my last shots, a 35x that I snagged from mlee. It squirts so damn hard I had to put a series of screw clamps on my tubing to add enough restriction, so that I could keep agitation out of my res - and air out of my lines. Doesn't look too swell, but works wonders. Something else: I asked the guy at Swiftech if the pump being at the bottom of my case was creating my enormous flow rate and he told me pump location makes no difference in a closed loop, that there would be the same pressure if the pump were at the top. Interesting. Any thoughts?

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/017.jpg

Also, here is a quick clip of flow before the clamps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSCmTy6lJvk

[grunt_408]

Nice!

Did the board blocks you bought and had to clean the hell out of end up to be junk?

I have not put them back together yet. Next loop change I was thinking of adding them in.

[Wile E]

I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room. So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on. Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/008.jpg

I also got a new beasty pump since my last shots, a 35x that I snagged from mlee. It squirts so damn hard I had to put a series of screw clamps on my tubing to add enough restriction, so that I could keep agitation out of my res - and air out of my lines. Doesn't look too swell, but works wonders. Something else: I asked the guy at Swiftech if the pump being at the bottom of my case was creating my enormous flow rate and he told me pump location makes no difference in a closed loop, that there would be the same pressure if the pump were at the top. Interesting. Any thoughts?

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/017.jpg

Also, here is a quick clip of flow before the clamps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSCmTy6lJvk

Pressure is the same no matter where. Instead of clamping the tubes, you can put it on a fan controller.

[MT Alex]

It's a PWM pump, and it doesn't operate below 9V, so there is a very fine line between perfect noise and speed and not running at all. I had it conk off at least 3 times, so I gave up on the fan controller. The crux of the problem is that my board doesn't seem to work well PWM wise with the pump, and won't run below 3300 rpm no matter how low I set my temp curve. It should go down to 1500. Anyhow, now I have no more shutoff worries, and it's still pretty quiet at 3300.

[Wile E]

Ahhh, fair enough. Didn't know you already attempted a controller.

You can also use something like this to help reduce turbulence in the res, as long as the outlet feeding the pump is also threaded inside the res. Helped tremendously on my Alphacool res top.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablanadbp.html

[Velvet Wafer]

I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room. So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on. Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/008.jpg

I also got a new beasty pump since my last shots, a 35x that I snagged from mlee. It squirts so damn hard I had to put a series of screw clamps on my tubing to add enough restriction, so that I could keep agitation out of my res - and air out of my lines. Doesn't look too swell, but works wonders. Something else: I asked the guy at Swiftech if the pump being at the bottom of my case was creating my enormous flow rate and he told me pump location makes no difference in a closed loop, that there would be the same pressure if the pump were at the top. Interesting. Any thoughts?

http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/017.jpg

Also, here is a quick clip of flow before the clamps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSCmTy6lJvk

its due to the top of the pump... all of these Restops, have severe problems with the formation of cyclones in the water.... EK sells anti cyclone inserts for their Res, i bet one of these would help you very much with your problem;)

[Wile E]

lol. I linked him the Bitspower anti-cyclone fitting. It does work quite well.

[Velvet Wafer]

lol. I linked him the Bitspower anti-cyclone fitting. It does work quite well.

didnt read your post,before posting myself... but it seems great minds think alike! :p

[MT Alex]

It's a travesty that this thread has slipped by unnoticed for this long. Heck, I had to check the box under Old Thread Warning just to post this scathing diatribe. For shame, Gents, for shame!!

[t_ski]

That's true. Anybody got anything new? I should be adding some GPU blocks soon (I know - I said I wouldn't do it...).

[sneekypeet]

not exactly "new" but I thought we needed a picture to go with all this talk of revival;)

http://img.techpowerup.org/110917/41.jpg

[MT Alex]

That is sweet. Add a few quick disconnects and you would be in removable motherboard heaven.

[t_ski]

I agree. It's very clean, sneeky. Do you have pics of it in the system? And with the double-stacked fans, were you using those for extra static pressure or was one hollowed out for a fan shroud to reduce noise, etc?

[sneekypeet]

hollowed for spacing. If I only used one fan the rad would hit the rear I/O and expansion card raised sections.


http://img.techpowerup.org/110918/44.jpg

[Chicken Patty]

^That's beautiful, you and your amazing builds/cases. :respect:

[t_ski]

How about this?

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/2179/newblocks.jpg

Gotta keep this thread alive!

[MT Alex]

Damn, I love the double tubing between the video cards. Does that improve flow, or just make it look super special bad ass?

[sneekypeet]

I read it doesn't hurt flow;) Even if it helps a little, who cares, I'm banking on looking bad ass is the main reason its in his rig:roll:

[HammerON]

Are you using a spare Bitspower tube to brace your second video card? Nice idea:)
Great build by the way!!!

[t_ski]

Damn, I love the double tubing between the video cards. Does that improve flow, or just make it look super special bad ass?

I read it doesn't hurt flow;) Even if it helps a little, who cares, I'm banking on looking bad ass is the main reason its in his rig:roll:

For me it has two purposes:

1. Since these are a little smaller ID than the 1/2" ID tubing I ude, two pipes means that these won't restrict the flow any.

2. If you look at the exit fitting on the bottom block, you'll see by using the dual tubes I was able to exit on the right, which means it's closer to where the tubing runs out toward the rad in the bottom. If I used a single tube between the blocks, it would have had to ecit on the left.

Are you using a spare Bitspower tube to brace your second video card? Nice idea:)
Great build by the way!!!

You caught that one, eh? I noticed the cards were sagging under the weight a little, and I stuck that in there as a temporary fix. Works great until I can find something better.

[Grnfinger]

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff267/Grnfinger/IMG_0856.jpg

HK 3.0 Nickle Plated
MCW30
Koolance VID 5970
PA120.3
MCR 120
AlphaCool Single Bay res
D5

[t_ski]

Where's the PA120.3? In the top or in the front?

[the54thvoid]

Hi all, I'm hoping to step into the watercooling arena to keep the life of my i7 920 going. I've recently had to downclock it to 3.4 from 3.6 as it caused a blue screen due to temps. I also just want to play with water as I like to fiddle and w/c is the best damn fiddling i figure i can do.

Problem is I run a Silverstone Fortress FT02 and for the life of me I can't figure out the best way to go. No matter which way i look there seems to be major hurdles to leap.

I could simply remove my bottom case fans (60cm depth right away) but it's made worse by my 580 lightning at 12" long (makes bottom clearance 60cm bang on - with fans out.)

Is it worth my while taking out one 18cm fan and putting a 120.1 rad in there bottom mounted? or would it be any better than my megahalem (on push and pull)?

Other alternative is to mount the rad outside the case (I'd figured out a front mounted method but the tubing would be quite long and would it be noisier with a triple rad on the outside?)

I would buy an obsidian in a flash but I love my fortress case.

Just looking for sound advice - I know you guys know your stuff.

Cheers.

[MT Alex]

I found this thread at another site that is devoted to FT02 an RV02s and watercooling. The fellow in post #79 fit a MCR320 XP, which is the thinner rad, below his 580 Matrix Plat. Some nice looking cases, here.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?258624-Fortress-FT02-amp-Raven-RV02-Liquid-Cooled-Club

[Cold Storm]

Also, another thing to look at, if you want. Tower Pedestal (http://www.mountainmods.com/tower-pedestal-24-p-566.html) that can be placed under the case.. you can place a 120 quad raid in there, pump, even house the psu if wanted..

Me, I just took out the fans and placed a rad.. Black Ice Stealth (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5069/ex-rad-93/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_360_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161) would be the best bet for a rad and fans under even the longest video card. Thin and workable rad. I've had two and Loved them..

[Grnfinger]

Where's the PA120.3? In the top or in the front?

in the roof.. it was a buggger but I got it without to much dremel work.

here is a better shot
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff267/Grnfinger/DSC00137.jpg

[the54thvoid]

Well, used three different e-tailers and have the following coming my way (most from specialtech).

Hardware Labs Black Ice® GT Stealth 360mm Triple Radiator : GTS360
Bitspower 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir : BP-WT525P-BK
XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel 1366 (Chrome)
D5 Vario Pump & EK D5 X-Top V2 Value Combo
+ 7/16 tuning for 1/2 inch fittings.
+ some plugs and a handful (8) of basic 1/4 inch barbs.

Should arrive tomorrow so by tomorrow evening, my pc should be completely broken :laugh:

[sneekypeet]

Well, used three different e-tailers and have the following coming my way (most from specialtech).

Hardware Labs Black Ice® GT Stealth 360mm Triple Radiator : GTS360
Bitspower 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir : BP-WT525P-BK
XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel 1366 (Chrome)
D5 Vario Pump & EK D5 X-Top V2 Value Combo
+ 7/16 tuning for 1/2 inch fittings.
+ some plugs and a handful (8) of basic 1/4 inch barbs.

Should arrive tomorrow so by tomorrow evening, my pc should be completely broken :laugh:

That's a pretty dense radiator, high FPI count. What Fans are you planning to use?

[the54thvoid]

It needed to be a narrow radiator to fit in the bottom of the case with 25mm fans. I've got a few options, from some noctua's and either try my akasa apache or viper. The akasa fans are PWM and drop as low as 700-900 rpm and the viper will hit 1800 rpm i think. I have two Apaches, and two Noctua's (NF p12). And one viper.

I think higher fins per inch = higher air flow fans are better but therefore noisier but the sales chuff did say quiet operation...

The Black Ice® GT Stealth 360 is the first true next generation triple fan PC radiator designed for uncompromising performance and stealth silent operation

I'll sue if it's noisy :laugh:

I just read a good article (old mind) http://www.coolingtechnique.com/martinsliquidlab/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
I'll probably test the fans and the radiator before installing to get an idea for noise.

What's your advice?

[PopcornMachine]

Should arrive tomorrow so by tomorrow evening, my pc should be completely broken :laugh:

:laugh:

[Cold Storm]

Your going to need something nice in CFM's. It's a good rad when you "need the space" but you gotta tie it up with the right fans. Or at lease a fan controller to "silent" the crazy fans.

I'd go with BitFenix Spectre if you can find them in your "shipping"..


Link me the "vipers" I forget which ones those are...

The Noc's do push a good amount of air... they would be my best bet for what you have now.. If you don't want to spend the money for the Bitfenix... There really isn't tooo much of a difference between the Noc's and the Bits...

[the54thvoid]

Viper:

Fan speed 600 -1900 RPM
Max airflow 83.63 CFM
Max static air pressure 2.98 mm H2O
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN059

Apache:
Fan speed 600 -1300 RPM
Max airflow 57.53 CFM
Max static air pressure 2.64 mm H2O
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN058

And read this for the Noctua:
We principally recommend the NF-P12 for the following applications:
CPU coolers with tight fin-spacing
Water-cooling radiators with tight fin-spacing

[Cold Storm]

I'm going with the Nocs since they were developed for the rads that you just got. The more static pressure you want, is when the fins are like the Sr1's or anything with "less" fins in the raid.

I suggest just grabbing another noc and calling it a day..

[the54thvoid]

Fans under rad, pushing air through or above rad, pulling air through (best cooling for cpu)

or:

As above but push /pull air out of bottom of case? (The 580 lightning vents it's heat into the case but it is quite an airy case.

[sneekypeet]

Viper Fans due to more static pressure;)

[the54thvoid]

Well, I went ahead and installed. I leak tested for a couple of hours using the psu bridge so no mobo power. I'm running it live now but it's under surveillance. Not a drop of water though. Thing took a while to bleed!

I've got two apache's and a viper on pull and it's already cooler and quieter than my megalem on push pull with apache/viper.

I'll tart her up soon enough but for now, this is ugly cooling but it is water cooling :D

That D5 vario pump is awesome - keep having to check it's working!!!

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43829&stc=1&d=1317751863

[Cold Storm]

Well, I went ahead and installed. I leak tested for a couple of hours using the psu bridge so no mobo power. I'm running it live now but it's under surveillance. Not a drop of water though. Thing took a while to bleed!

I've got two apache's and a viper on pull and it's already cooler and quieter than my megalem on push pull with apache/viper.

I'll tart her up soon enough but for now, this is ugly cooling but it is water cooling :D

That D5 vario pump is awesome - keep having to check it's working!!!

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43829&stc=1&d=1317751863

Looks good! I would of drilled into the case and made less tubing.. but, that's me..

Can we get a "close up" of the rad and gpu?

[Sinzia]

I need some 45 degree and some 90 degree rotary fittings before I can post some pics, but its an epic build.

Stay posted. ;)

[the54thvoid]

Here's that gap...

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43832&stc=1&d=1317762037

It's about 6-7mm. To be fair, to get a 30cm gfx card in a case aligned like the fortress FT02 and get a triple rad and fans isn't too bad.

Slightly prettier but I'm not a modder....

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43833&stc=1&d=1317762092

I'll get a UV tube as i'm pretty sure the tubing is UV. Didn't want to bother with dye - I've heard it can be a factor with sludge in the long run?

And 6 hours gone - no signs of water - at all (except where it's meant to be!). I'll keep checking but im thinking it's safe.....

[sneekypeet]

From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes;) I think you made the right call.

[Cold Storm]

From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes;) I think you made the right call.

Yep. I'm with ya.. I tried the "dyes" and It didn't do nothing but "gunk" up the system.. Cleaning it more often then I want, and changing the tubing afterwards..

[Sinzia]

From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes;) I think you made the right call.

agreed, I've seen many a horror video posted and stuff where the dye was all gunked up on the microfins and such.

[the54thvoid]

I've just run Prime 95 for over an hour with i7 920 at 3.6Ghz and 1.34v (HT off). Given I have a C0 stepping model, not the fabled D0 are these temps okay?

Core 1 only bumped about over 60 degrees and the remaining cores stayed under 60. At no time would i consider the system loud - Even kept the D5 pump at setting 2. It's about a 20 degree delta from idle.

Would i get a better cooling effect putting the fans under the rad and blowing through them, as opposed to the set up i've got (pulling air)?

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43842&stc=1&d=1317803468

[Cold Storm]

I've just run Prime 95 for over an hour with i7 920 at 3.6Ghz and 1.34v (HT off). Given I have a C0 stepping model, not the fabled D0 are these temps okay?

Core 1 only bumped about over 60 degrees and the remaining cores stayed under 60. At no time would i consider the system loud - Even kept the D5 pump at setting 2. It's about a 20 degree delta from idle.

Would i get a better cooling effect putting the fans under the rad and blowing through them, as opposed to the set up i've got (pulling air)?

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43842&stc=1&d=1317803468

That's not bad temps at all. Pretty good if the pump is at setting 2 instead of full force 5..

:toast:

[MT Alex]

It seemed like the sweet spot in my old vario was in between 3 and 4, but either I am more sensitive to noise or I got a loud pump. Mine wasn't what I would call silent.

[the54thvoid]

I'd have to say the pump is definitely in audible at position 2. Even more so as it sits inside the gutted hard drive rack.

On a side note, I've flipped the rad and fans so the fans are under the radiator sucking on cold air and blowing it through. I thought it might make a bit more noise as the fin density is quite high but the noise is the same and temps are down 1-2 degrees (with less fan rpm).

Moved up to 3.7Ghz and had same if not fractionally lower temps with this radiator set up. I'll stick at that I think.

Thanks guys.

[the54thvoid]

Well after much playing about finally seem to have a fairly stable setting. Ran at 3.8GHz with HT on, 1.34 Vcore. Ran Prime 95 for 1 1/2 hours, max temp 66 degrees. Ran Very high Stress (4096MB) Intel Burn Test 5 runs without error - max temp 68 degrees.

Happy with my first foray into water cooling.

Popped it back down to 3.6 with Turbo on (jumps up to 3.78GHz) for extra stability and silence unless gaming.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44014&stc=1&d=1319120632

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44015&stc=1&d=1319120647

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44016&stc=1&d=1319120654

[MT Alex]

Great pictures. I have a hell of a time getting good interior shots, even with a tripod.

[the54thvoid]

Great pictures. I have a hell of a time getting good interior shots, even with a tripod.

Used a Canon Powershot SX230 and a mini gorilla pod stand. It has good manual programming settings for ISO, Aperture settings etc.

[Cold Storm]

Glad to see that Stealth rad did a good job for ya.


:toast:

[Animalpak]

Im coming back to watercooling silently but better than my old systems ... HA HA look what i did today...

http://img.techpowerup.org/111020/DSC00113.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/111020/DSC00117.jpg

And this is my clearence...

http://img.techpowerup.org/111020/DSC00109.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/111020/DSC00110.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/111020/DSC00118.jpg