Watercooling Assistance Needed

[dcf-joe]

I have just finished purchasing everything that I need to set up my new watercooling system. This is what I have:

1. Core i7 920
2. Antec 1200
3. Swiftech Apogee GTZ w/ LGA1366 Mounting Kit
4. Swiftech MCP655 Pump
5. Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator
6. Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2
7. (2x) 120mm Scythe 110.31 CFM @ 37 dB Fans
8. 12' Tygon 1/2" ID Tubing
9. Artic Cooling MX-2 TIM
10. Swiftech HydrX Coolant
11. Swiftech MCB-120 Radbox Rev2
12. 10 Hose Clamps

Here are my questions:

1. Is the placement of everything correct?
2. When I do my leak test, and actually apply the setup, do I just put the water in the reservoir and start the pump?
3. How do I "bleed" the air out of the loop?

 

[Cja123]

1. Yeah everything looks alright.
2. Not sure...
3. Bleeding the air out of a loop simply means getting all the bubbles out. You can do so by running your computer on it's side, and you can also rock it back and fourth. This allows all the air bubbles in tight spaces to release. This can be a tedious process but it's worth it because air bubbles cause cooling issues.

 

[dcf-joe]

It would be helpful if I could possibly get an answer to number two, guys.

 

[domy85]

It would be helpful if I could possibly get an answer to number two, guys.

I never tested outside of the case when I had a water cooled setup(but I should have), but yeah it wouldnt hurt using "distilled" water only running through it outside the case for testing leaks. I woudnt use only water with it running to system components cause it will heat up.

 

[Yin]

just fill up the resservior, start it, fill it up again and start it and repeat until you got the liquid through the whole loop

 

[Sasqui]

I just did a leak test with my new setup. I rigged the case, watercooling loop and some case fans without any components other than a cheap PSU.

Filled with distilled water and green food coloring, then ran the rig over the sink for 12 hours (recommended is 24 hours). No leaks!

Leak test kit:

Bare case:

 

[dcf-joe]

Just a little paranoia, but everything I have is for 1/2" ID tubing, so do I just connect everything and let it run? Also, the two fans that I have for the radiator have 4-pin connectors. Do I just plug my 24-pin power cord from the power supply into the motherboard, and then plug the fans into the motherboard and let them run?

 

[EastCoasthandle]

I thought retailers would have different colored tubing by now
source

 

[RevengE]

They do have different colored tubing I have orange uv for mine.

 

[Icewind31]

Just a little paranoia, but everything I have is for 1/2" ID tubing, so do I just connect everything and let it run? Also, the two fans that I have for the radiator have 4-pin connectors. Do I just plug my 24-pin power cord from the power supply into the motherboard, and then plug the fans into the motherboard and let them run?

Here's what you can do to bleed if you intend to bleed it w/ all your hardware mounted:

1. Make sure everything is disconnected from the power supply, except for the pump (you don't need the fans connected either because you're running water only)

2. Make sure the flip switch on the power supply is "off"

3. Using a paper clip, short the green and black wire on the 24 pin connector (after that you can use the back flip switch on the power supply as a hard on/off switch)

4. Fill the reservoir with as much water as you can, and then rotating your case to get as much water through as possible.

5. I found it best using a funnel, have it go into the reservoir

6. Turn the power supply on (which will turn the pump on)

7. As you turn it on, also provide a steady flow of coolant into the resevoir until it is enough to fill your entire loop (self sustaining w/o need to add more)

8. Check for leaks and such, and usually I just let the loop run overnight after a 1hr leak test period and it usually bleeds it out by the morning (a good tip is to wrap connections w/ white tissue paper, it's easier to catch even the slightest drip leak)

9. In the morning, the coolant shouldn't really make any gargoling noises if it's completely bled out, else let it run a little longer (you might have to add a little coolant to make up for the air bubbles that are released throughout the night)

10. Make sure you don't seal the reservoir until your done bleeding the loop it tends to help the loop bleed faster.

11. after you've tested the loop well and bled it out, reattach the power to everything and then fire it up.

Note: if coolant leaks onto any hardware... just turn off the power supply and wipe it clean w/ alcohol (it shouldn't be a problem because they shouldn't be powered in the first place. other than the pump and power supply)

 

[Icewind31]

Also if you have any fans w/ 4pin connectors they usually attach to the power supply and not the motherboard unless they're pwm fans (it'll be obvious when you look at the size of the connector where stuff fit)

 

[Sasqui]

Just a little paranoia, but everything I have is for 1/2" ID tubing, so do I just connect everything and let it run? Also, the two fans that I have for the radiator have 4-pin connectors. Do I just plug my 24-pin power cord from the power supply into the motherboard, and then plug the fans into the motherboard and let them run?

You can turn the PSU on by shorting pins 4 & 6 on a 20pin connector - see the red circle.

I used a crappy old PSU for that test (my real PSU is in use)

 

[Icewind31]

You can turn the PSU on by shorting pins 4 & 6 on a 20pin connector - see the red circle.

http://img.techpowerup.org/090320/20pin.jpg

I used a crappy old PSU for that test (my real PSU is in use)

Yes, look at Sas's pic for what I meant in step 3.

 

[dcf-joe]

Do I really have to short any pins, because my P6T-Deluxe has onboard power and reset buttons, built into the motherboard?

 

[Sasqui]

Do I really have to short any pins, because my P6T-Deluxe has onboard power and reset buttons, built into the motherboard?

That suggestion is only if you want to do a leak test before installing the motherboard. As for shorting pins, they are slightly different between 20 and 24 pin ATX, just a word of caution. I have some pin diagrams if you go that route.

 

[Icewind31]

Do I really have to short any pins, because my P6T-Deluxe has onboard power and reset buttons, built into the motherboard?

I don't think you want to test for leaks... then find a leak... with the motherboard on... but it's basically the 4th wire in (green wire) on the ATX power connector shorted w/ a black (ground wire)

 

[dcf-joe]

I am doing the test with an old power supply and an old motherboard. I am just going to connect the power supply to the motherboard, and then connect the case's power button wire into the motherboard, so I can use the power button on the case to turn everything on.

However, I have another question:

1. I just bought some Swiftech HydrX Coolant. The sticker on the front says, "2 fl oz. - 0.5 L." However, the instructions on Swiftech's website says to use the entire bottle. I am confused by these two different instructions. What should I do?

 

[dcf-joe]

Bump

 

[Binge]

Here are my questions:

1. Is the placement of everything correct?
2. When I do my leak test, and actually apply the setup, do I just put the water in the reservoir and start the pump?
3. How do I "bleed" the air out of the loop?

1. It is if your flow is from right to left.
2. You must make sure water is ready to flow from the inlet side of your pump.
3. Bleeding is a pretty complicated thing that some people do by luck, and other people have a method. Easiest way is to make sure your res is the highest point in the loop or that you run the pump at a lower speed so the air in your loop rises to the top of your res without being sucked back into the loop again.

 

[Icewind31]

I am doing the test with an old power supply and an old motherboard. I am just going to connect the power supply to the motherboard, and then connect the case's power button wire into the motherboard, so I can use the power button on the case to turn everything on.

However, I have another question:

1. I just bought some Swiftech HydrX Coolant. The sticker on the front says, "2 fl oz. - 0.5 L." However, the instructions on Swiftech's website says to use the entire bottle. I am confused by these two different instructions. What should I do?

roughly in a mixture of 9 parts Distilled water to 1 part coolant (the label is pretty much that ratio at 2oz/0.5L) Usually too much is counterproductive to temps.

Make sure you get distilled water (you can get it from a pharmacy, sometimes supermarkets have them)

I really don't recommend turning on a motherboard on while testing unless you are dead certain you don't give a crap about the board. Just be careful and to wrap each connection w/ a tissue, and should help mitigate problems if you go that route.

 

[dcf-joe]

Thanks for all of your help guys. I have finally put together all of the watercooling parts. I leak tested it for about seven hours last night, turned it off until about 3:30 in the afternoon today, and turned it back on. Guess what, NO LEAKS!!!

Here is a picture. I will be posting up my completed build sometime tonight, after I have everything built.

http://img.techpowerup.org/090323/DSC03208.jpg

 

[Icewind31]

Thanks for all of your help guys. I have finally put together all of the watercooling parts. I leak tested it for about seven hours last night, turned it off until about 3:30 in the afternoon today, and turned it back on. Guess what, NO LEAKS!!!

Here is a picture. I will be posting up my completed build sometime tonight, after I have everything built.

http://img.techpowerup.org/090323/DSC03208.jpg

Glad everything is working out! put pics up when everything is put together