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Bad Boys of Case Modding Clubhouse..

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ok so i did some digging and apparantly you can dye acrylic, but its a pretty complicated process involving heating the dye mixture to 70C and adding acetol...

Then you have to leave the acrylic there for as long as possible, maintaining the water temperature at 70C (otherwise it will be uneven)...

Oh and the dye is a powerful mutagen, which means its highly toxic and breaks down DNA... hrm... i might put this on hold or get some limo tint or something.
 
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stinger608

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Sounds like a person would have to be in a toxic suit to attempt that one Phanbuey!!! LOL
 

p_o_s_pc

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MK that red case looks like what i'm working on :roll: is that powder coat or paint?
 

stinger608

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MK that red case looks like what i'm working on :roll: is that powder coat or paint?

That is Cardinal Powder coating, the color is transparent red.
 

CyberDruid

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Cold Storm

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I was on my celly watching that video at dinner... That is some beautiful stuff CD! I can't wait for it all to be used in a build of yours!!
 

CyberDruid

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the Casting Couch

Just ordered some supplies from TAP Plastics to do clear polyurethane casting. I've got this crazy mod in my head that needs to come out...in 3 dimensions.

Ordered a quart of Latex and some plasticene modelling clay. I'm thinking about making some Iconic glowing badges/labels and some even weirder stuff (like a face pressing through the window Matrix style or a hand emerging from the case Terminator 3 style (liquid metal). So Latex or Plaster will be safer than RTV-Silicone or Catalyzed Urethane molds.

Might just put my ugly mug right into the mod this time :D
 
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And make the face with that weird effect so it looks like it's sticking out but actualy concave....
 

KH0UJ

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Water Cooling Rad

Hi guys, Im planning to try setting up a water cooling on my rig, its my first time to try WC:laugh: im looking on this copper heater core since i have a lot of this on my work, can this rad work for a WC set-up? i have really no idea on this:laugh: if cannot, how about this aluminum rad? sorry for asking too many questions, im really a noob on this one:laugh:


 

CyberDruid

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That would work very well indeed.

I suggest finding the largest fan you can and making some sort of shroud.

I've seen a dual fan from Walmart (120 VAC and cheap) that a guy used to shroud and blow air through a similar core.
 

KH0UJ

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That would work very well indeed.

I suggest finding the largest fan you can and making some sort of shroud.

I've seen a dual fan from Walmart (120 VAC and cheap) that a guy used to shroud and blow air through a similar core.

really?:D now my second question is what type of water pump should I use? does the water cooling pump also has FLA? (full load amperage) never seen or touched one before sir:eek: i only read the specifications on the net:eek: i only know from the specs that its a 12V DC supply and brushless:laugh:
 

MKmods

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sorry for asking too many questions, im really a noob on this one:laugh:

This is a good place to ask.. Like CD said its a good rad to use.
(the alum one you show in your picture looks like an air conditioner condenser(designed to transport more of a gas) and wont be as efficient as the first one designed for water)

As to if alum is ok or not sometimes I use alum rads and sometimes not. The possible problem is using different parts (copper,brass,alum) and connecting them with water its possible to create a small electrical charge in the system that eats through the softer material (usually alum)
So if possible use an all alum system or dont use alum blocks or rads with copper parts.

As to pumps, anything that dosent have too much pressure but good flow. Experiment with whats available to you.

As an example this is a VERY good pump (especially with an aftermarket top)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108063

They draw up to 18watts and flow around 440liters per hour.
 
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CyberDruid

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Either the DDC linked by MK or the Swiftech MCP655 are pretty much the favorites among waterheads.

The MCP has cast 1/2" OD barbs the DDC 3/8" OD barbs. Problem with either is you'll need an aftermarket top to use a lot of the more common PC type fittings (all threaded BSPP-1/4). But if you are happy with 3/8 or 1/2 right from get go either will do the job.

You'll need to adapt from the core tubes to something a little smaller IMO.
 

KH0UJ

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This is a good place to ask.. Like CD said its a good rad to use.

As to if alum is ok or not sometimes I use alum rads and sometimes not. The possible problem is using different parts (copper,brass,alum) and connecting them with water its possible to create a small electrical charge in the system that eats through the softer material (usually alum)
So if possible use an all alum system or dont use alum blocks or rads with copper parts.

As to pumps, anything that dosent have too much pressure but good flow. Experiment with whats available to you.

thanks for the info sir:eek: the only available water pump here on island is the water fountain pump which is 120VAC 10 watts and submerssible on ACE hardware:( but im afraid it might short and electricuting my entire PC to death:cry:
 

MKmods

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LOL, if its submersible dont worry (make sure its grounded).

Also make sure it isant high pressure, if you could post a link to it it would be cool.

I have used 120V pumps as well, and some water cooling kits come with submersible pumps mounted inside their own reservoirs.

I used to use Eheim pumps (submersible)
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/15914/product.web
They just were way too much $$ for what they did..
 

KH0UJ

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MKmods

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just a pump a rad and the blocks connected by hose (careful to check for leaks) is all you need.

If you want to be fancy you can add a reservoir but to me the extra connections just add more hose and chance for leaks.
 

KH0UJ

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just a pump a rad and the blocks connected by hose (careful to check for leaks) is all you need.

If you want to be fancy you can add a reservoir but to me the extra connections just add more hose and chance for leaks.

Alright then, thanks for the really informative suggestions sir:respect: I better start planning and cutting the excess pipes on this copper rad:rolleyes: its saturday today and i have nothing to do:laugh: thanks guys:rockout: ill be right back:toast:
 
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Just a quickie.

Setting up my Rad over the next few days (Don't worry, the DeskMod will be pictures :D). It's a PA120.3, i'm using 6x 120mm LianLi fans that i got for cheap. Now, i've put converters on all the 3pins to make them Molex, then i've fitted the back ones together on one line, and the front on another. Then i have them connected on two of the three molex's i can have out of my SilverStone 750w.

Just wanting to know if they'll run at max like this, or will i need to attach the other Molex modular cable to my Silverstone?

This is the PSU Cable


This is my setup

 

MKmods

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as long as the fans red wires are getting 12V and the blacks are ground they will run at full speed.
(careful the yellow wires from the PS are 12V and the red ones are 5V, the fan wiring is different (black=ground, red +12V, and yellow is rpm sensor)

The PS and fan companies should get together on the same page...
(thats a lot of adapters, next tool get a soldering iron)
 

MKmods

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careful to check all the adapters...I just built a comp for a guy and fried 2 Hdds before I realized the yellow wire and the red one on the PS were reversed.

if the fans were .15A (usually listed a sticker on each fan) each you could run almost 100 on a single line from the PS
 

MKmods

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just make sure all the yellow wires from the PS connect with red ones from the fans.
(It may sound silly but it never hurts to be careful)
 
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Ah ok.

Just checked and they do.

Thanks alot man, really saved my bacon :D

Can't wait for parts now! Damn weekend!
 
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