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Computer shuts down as soon as it starts (P5N-E SLI)...

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Hello everyone, I suspect this motherboard is faulty but i'm just posting here in case i've missed anything obvious. My friend bought a P5N-E SLI mobo second hand a while back to upgrade his sisters pc but it had the issue whereby it would shut down almost instantaneously after it was started up. This happens with both an E6600 and a celeron d cpu. I thought I would have a look at it again but it's doing the same thing. I've tested it with components that are confirmed working - a stick of corsair DDR2, a corsair HX 520w psu, a 5770 gpu and of course the celeron d cpu.

Any idea's or is it just dead? Not all of the pins look uniform however they all look as if they should make contact with the cpu. I'll try and get a pic of it.

Here are some pics:

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154045.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154056.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154138.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154226.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154335.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u224/synixx/IMG_20120415_154404.jpg
 
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Are there any capacitors that look bad. The ones that look like: http://www.capacitorlab.com/capacitor-types-electrolytic/

It could be lots of things but trying to rule out something visual.

Second to last photo: cap under southbridge (AI Life) ? Image is shaky can't view well.

Pins don't look bad.

Do any of the metal caps look like they are pushing up off the motherboard from the bottom.
 
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Thanks for the post. The caps look fine. There is no visual bulging of the sort, they just look normal.

EDIT: I also got the model number of the board wrong it's a P5N32-SLI Premium.
 
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Hi,

For the time-being, try to clear cmos/bios (see the jumper setting for that in the manual) and detach and/or replace the cmos battery with a new one if needed. Also make sure the cpu cooler is already attached to the motherboard header for the cpu fan; also, some motherboards don't like fan with a low rpm, perhaps try out with a fan with higher rpm to rule out this issue.

By the way, can you go into bios or the motherboard just kinda hangs? And are there any error codes/beeps?
 

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does it start up, shut down, wait 3-5 seconds and start up again? if so its a BIOS 'safety' feature on those boards. seen it a lot, and its thrown a lot of new users out for a loop.
 
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Hi,

For the time-being, try to clear cmos/bios (see the jumper setting for that in the manual) and detach and/or replace the cmos battery with a new one if needed. Also make sure the cpu cooler is already attached to the motherboard header for the cpu fan; also, some motherboards don't like fan with a low rpm, perhaps try out with a fan with higher rpm to rule out this issue.

By the way, can you go into bios or the motherboard just kinda hangs? And are there any error codes/beeps?

Hi, I will try taking the cmos battery from my pc and putting it in this mobo. I was just testing it quickly so I didn't even connect the heatsink as it only starts up for 1 second and then shuts off completely.

No error beeps, the fans just start for 1 sec then it shuts down. There is a green LED on the mobo that lights up when it is hooked up to the PSU though.
 
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does it start up, shut down, wait 3-5 seconds and start up again? if so its a BIOS 'safety' feature on those boards. seen it a lot, and its thrown a lot of new users out for a loop.

Would you please elaborate on how to correct this?
 
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does it start up, shut down, wait 3-5 seconds and start up again? if so its a BIOS 'safety' feature on those boards. seen it a lot, and its thrown a lot of new users out for a loop.

No it just shuts down and stays shut off. Can you explain that in more detail though as that has happened to me with another asus board and a gigabyte board.
 

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Would you please elaborate on how to correct this?

you cant, its literally a feature. it boots at BIOS defaults, then your custom settings so that if the custom fails, it can go into a recovery mode and let you set stable settings.

an overclocking protection feature, as it were, extremely common on DDR2 775 boards from asus and gigabyte.
 
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What fan are you using? The OEM fan that comes with the intel chip? If so, make sure that's properly seated down. Those Intel OEM fan's are crap and if there is any play and not a firm fit it will cause the CPU to shut down from heat, and the board will go into this protected mode where the board won't power up for 3-5 minutes to let the CPU cool down.

Same thing happened to me with my i5 and my Asus Gene III about 6 months back. System would power up, i'd have a black screen for 3 seconds then the PC would power off and I couldn't turn it back on for about 2-3 minutes. I thought I had faulty memory, or fried my CPU. Found that one of the clips wasn't as secure as it should have been. I swapped that fan out, new thermal paste, and it's been running fine ever since.

Pull the fan, re-apply thermal paste, and put it back on. I'd test with an aftermarket fan, something that can clip down versus those twist screw locks.
 
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I was just testing it quickly so I didn't even connect the heatsink as it only starts up for 1 second and then shuts off completely.

I am to assume your referring to the fan on the heat sink? If so, plug that into the CPU fan header on the motherboard. Some of them will not start if it doesn't sense a fan plugged into that header.
 
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Ok i've fitted a new CMOS battery but i've still got the same problem.

What fan are you using? The OEM fan that comes with the intel chip? If so, make sure that's properly seated down. Those Intel OEM fan's are crap and if there is any play and not a firm fit it will cause the CPU to shut down from heat, and the board will go into this protected mode where the board won't power up for 3-5 minutes to let the CPU cool down.

Same thing happened to me with my i5 and my Asus Gene III about 6 months back. System would power up, i'd have a black screen for 3 seconds then the PC would power off and I couldn't turn it back on for about 2-3 minutes. I thought I had faulty memory, or fried my CPU. Found that one of the clips wasn't as secure as it should have been. I swapped that fan out, new thermal paste, and it's been running fine ever since.

Pull the fan, re-apply thermal paste, and put it back on. I'd test with an aftermarket fan, something that can clip down versus those twist screw locks.

To be honest I haven't even fitted the heatsink because the pc only powers up for literally one second before shutting down and I doubt that's enough time for the cpu to overheat. Do you think that fitting the heatsink will be of any benefit at all? The cpu is still cold to touch after it shuts down.

I know its completely obvious, but you did this step, right?

Yes :laugh:

I am to assume your referring to the fan on the heat sink? If so, plug that into the CPU fan header on the motherboard. Some of them will not start if it doesn't sense a fan plugged into that header.

I've just done that there and unfortunately it doesn;t make a difference :(
 
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Oh I should also mention that there was a backplate on the board which prevented the stock heatsink being fitted so my friend took it to the local pc shop to get it removed. They used a heat gun to soften the glue. These guys were professionals so I doubt they fucked it up but is there a chance that they could have damaged the cpu socket?
 
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To be honest I haven't even fitted the heatsink because the pc only powers up for literally one second before shutting down and I doubt that's enough time for the cpu to overheat. Do you think that fitting the heatsink will be of any benefit at all? The cpu is still cold to touch after it shuts down.

I would just to eliminate that factor.
 

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Oh I should also mention that there was a backplate on the board which prevented the stock heatsink being fitted so my friend took it to the local pc shop to get it removed. They used a heat gun to soften the glue. These guys were professionals so I doubt they fucked it up but is there a chance that they could have damaged the cpu socket?

they might have ruined the PCB traces >_>
also the cooler is not just there to keep the cpu cool its `weight` to help ensure the cpu PADS make good contact
 
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If clearing the cmos doesn't at least allow it to boot, I think there is a serious hardware problem on the line somewhere. And since everything else works in other machines it sounds like the motherboard is indeed at fault. Assuming everything is plugged in correctly (I'm looking at You, PSU - seems to be a popular culprit), anyway.
 
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the first photo shows six or more bad pins. I thnk the board is toast and you should not put any good cpu in that.

You posted great photo's, so you already new the harm dun. It just sucks when it happens to you.
 
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the first photo shows six or more bad pins. I thnk the board is toast and you should not put any good cpu in that.

You posted great photo's, so you already new the harm dun. It just sucks when it happens to you.

I thought it looked like there were several bent or bad pins as well.
 
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the first photo shows six or more bad pins. I thnk the board is toast and you should not put any good cpu in that.

You posted great photo's, so you already new the harm dun. It just sucks when it happens to you.

When you say the CPU pins are bad, what indicated this to you? Is it because they are slightly bent or something else? I've tried aligning the pins to the best of my ability, they didn't seem very severely offset.
 
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Check if you put in the cooler well.
That happened to a friends of mine pc long time ago
 
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When you say the CPU pins are bad, what indicated this to you? Is it because they are slightly bent or something else? I've tried aligning the pins to the best of my ability, they didn't seem very severely offset.

They look cooked to me. The pin will stay in good form from time to time but the traces will be bad. Don't know the pin map for that socket but it looks like mem volts.
 

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the one 2 rows down from the bottem of the socket and 3 over from the corner in the first pick would be the one thats in the worst shape the rest of them don't look good but they should be functional
 

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VR HMD ;_;
Software Windows 10 Professional x3
Benchmark Scores There are no marks on my bench
i think the PSU may be getting old nad the 5850 is getting too much to handle. i mean its 520W right?
 

OneMoar

There is Always Moar
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
8,746 (1.71/day)
Location
Rochester area
System Name RPC MK2.5
Processor Ryzen 5800x
Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Pro V2
Cooling Enermax ETX-T50RGB
Memory CL16 BL2K16G36C16U4RL 3600 1:1 micron e-die
Video Card(s) GIGABYTE RTX 3070 Ti GAMING OC
Storage ADATA SX8200PRO NVME 512GB, Intel 545s 500GBSSD, ADATA SU800 SSD, 3TB Spinner
Display(s) LG Ultra Gear 32 1440p 165hz Dell 1440p 75hz
Case Phanteks P300 /w 300A front panel conversion
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply SeaSonic Focus+ Platinum 750W
Mouse Kone burst Pro
Keyboard EVGA Z15
Software Windows 11 +startisallback
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