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Toothless

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Still getting updates for Windows. My GTX660OC will show up soon. Though I need tips on OC'ing that CPU using a stock cooler. I've noticed that on idle, it'll drop to 1.4ghz and under load, it'll go to 3.5ghz. I turned off Turbo Boost because I get annoyed with it.

ALSO, my RAM is said to run at CAS 9 and I'm not seeing that.
 
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ALSO, my RAM is said to run at CAS 9 and I'm not seeing that.

Gotta set it in the BIOS, with any luck there are existing profiles.

Though I need tips on OC'ing that CPU using a stock cooler

Uhhh, maybe just stick with changing the multi to whatever your turbo clock is and see if that runs on stock voltage. Not sure I'd be happy about OC'ing on a stock cooler.
 

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You're annoyed with lowering your power bill? :laugh: (these days power saving features are pretty damned good, in the olden days it was almost a point to turning such things off, but not now)
 

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You're annoyed with lowering your power bill? :laugh: (these days power saving features are pretty damned good, in the olden days it was almost a point to turning such things off, but not now)
I put my desktop to sleep pretty much every night. A big change from when I ran it 24/7.

Gotta set it in the BIOS, with any luck there are existing profiles.



Uhhh, maybe just stick with changing the multi to whatever your turbo clock is and see if that runs on stock voltage. Not sure I'd be happy about OC'ing on a stock cooler.

I'll set the clocks to 3.5 and see how it runs from where. Any idea on the voltage?
 
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I put my desktop to sleep pretty much every night. A big change from when I ran it 24/7.



I'll set the clocks to 3.5 and see how it runs from where. Any idea on the voltage?

Check to see what you can get away with on stock voltages first!
 

Toothless

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Check to see what you can get away with on stock voltages first!
Okay, I'll try it once these updates get done. Gotta love new OS installation updates.
 
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Okay, I'll try it once these updates get done. Gotta love new OS installation updates.

Your PC will be faster than it ever will be in future for the next 24 hours. Then when all your updates and software is installed, prepare to be sad again :laugh:
 

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Your PC will be faster than it ever will be in future for the next 24 hours. Then when all your updates and software is installed, prepare to be sad again :laugh:
I know the feels. I'm thinking about getting a 128GB SSD for the OS and a 256GB SSD for games, leaving my 1TB HDD as storage. That's all for later down the road.
 

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So, I know this has been mentioned before, but what CPU cooler should I get? Max budget is $100
 
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Toothless

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OKAY, NEWBIE QUESTION. How to OC using UEFI bios?

EDIT- Nevermind, found it.
 

Toothless

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Sitting at 4ghz @1.33v. Everything is going smoothly.

UPDATE: So Speedfan won't show my CPU. Getting more Windows updates.
 
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My intel box cooler can handle my 4770k at 4.1Ghz, if you don't mind it hovering around 92C, lol.
 

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Okay so I did a quick run in Warframe. Maxed settings and multithread on. 46-51c temps.

UPDATE: Clocked to 3.8. Will test.

UPDATE 2: Programs randomly crashing and not responding. Happens when there is a load.
 
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Toothless

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Final update for the night. (Apologies for so many posts)

Downclocked more. Here is my current setup. Any changes to be made?




 
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You know, you can usually leave cool n' quiet and Intel's speedstep on. I've got my system overclocked, but it down clocks when it's idling with no issues.
 
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I guess overclocking on a stock cooler with a FX-6300 is a terribad idea, as the cooler doesn't even have copper tubes or copper heat plate, its just an aluminium blob with a fan on it.
 
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Final update for the night. (Apologies for so many posts)

Downclocked more. Here is my current setup. Any changes to be made?




You should run a user set voltage value not auto.
 
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Thats a strange power supply he has there, it says on the website that it supports SLI, but theres now word about it having at least 80+ rating.
 
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Thats a strange power supply he has there, it says on the website that it supports SLI, but theres now word about it having at least 80+ rating.
as soon as it can supply enough power for both cards it isnt mendatory to have 80+ sertification. headache will come at the end of the month when electric bill shows off
 
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I've noticed that on idle, it'll drop to 1.4ghz and under load, it'll go to 3.5ghz. I turned off Turbo Boost because I get annoyed with it.
It has nothing to do with TurboCore that you've turned off. You just limited your peak performance by doing that, because now your CPU won't work at increased clock speed (3900 MHz) during the serious loads. Congratulations, and don't forget to turn it on next time you decide to run your CPU at stock clock (it should be turned off if you're overclocking, but isn't necessary).
What you meant to do is to turn off the lower power states mechanism, which is stupid and even harmful in a lot of ways. You will decrease the lifespan of your motherboard components and CPU itself, get higher power bills and produce extra heat, which is bad for the rest of your PC parts. Next time you get "annoyed" by something, please have a time to educate yourself on the topic and only after doing that, start changing your factory UEFI settings.
No offense, just trying to point out that your spontaneous choices may lead to serious problems (most of the times, not just extra 25 bucks on your monthly payment for electricity).
 
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"1280x1024@1Hz"

1Hz, doesn't that hurt your eyes? :roll:
 
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So, I know this has been mentioned before, but what CPU cooler should I get? Max budget is $100
PHTC14-DE or NH-D14 or SilverArrow take your pick.
 

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Thats a strange power supply he has there, it says on the website that it supports SLI, but theres now word about it having at least 80+ rating.
Xfire, not SLI.

It has nothing to do with TurboCore that you've turned off. You just limited your peak performance by doing that, because now your CPU won't work at increased clock speed (3900 MHz) during the serious loads. Congratulations, and don't forget to turn it on next time you decide to run your CPU at stock clock (it should be turned off if you're overclocking, but isn't necessary).
What you meant to do is to turn off the lower power states mechanism, which is stupid and even harmful in a lot of ways. You will decrease the lifespan of your motherboard components and CPU itself, get higher power bills and produce extra heat, which is bad for the rest of your PC parts. Next time you get "annoyed" by something, please have a time to educate yourself on the topic and only after doing that, start changing your factory UEFI settings.
No offense, just trying to point out that your spontaneous choices may lead to serious problems (most of the times, not just extra 25 bucks on your monthly payment for electricity).
I'll probably reset it back to stock/turbo boost. The reason I disabled it was because I played around with my laptop. (1.5 stock but 2.4 turbo, pretty much turning it into a nuclear reactor every three seconds.)

"1280x1024@1Hz"

1Hz, doesn't that hurt your eyes? :roll:

My eyes hurt all night anyway.
 
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