• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

How did my 980x's default speed change into just 2.66ghz instead of 3.33ghz?

Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
pull out the PSU, short the green (power on signal) and black wire (ground) of the ATX 20/24pin connector to see if it can turn on.
it's just a basick check though, you'll need multimeter to check if the voltages are okay....

i don't know if you already done this, but if i were you, the next thing i'd do would be to pull out the motherboard from the casing, plug it with minimal component (cpu, 1 stick of memory), plug the psu and short the power on jumper on the motherboard.

anyway, i have a corsair & seasonic psu, not the best but i think they are still performing decently. PM me if you want to borrow them for testing. i'm in jakarta, btw.

Woah, yay! finally a fellow countrymen, just sent you a PM, thanks a lot for swinging by my thread :D

Make sure when using the microfiber cloths, that no cotton fibers are left on the object. If needed, blow it off with some compressed air (canned air).

Last time I checked, there seemed to be none, it was clean and shiny, but still I feel like I had not inspected it enough and thoroughly /:

Sparking? Electric shock discharge when touching PC?
If you rule out static discharge.. you may have a grounding or bonding problem. And, you may need to have an electrician (friend preferably) check your dwellings electrical wiring.
Yeah fire sparks and sorta low electrical shocks. I already had the electrical checking scheduled this week but sadly it won't be performed by a friend, but rather some paid professional, I just got no such friends:(

thank you everyone.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
Woah, yay! finally a fellow countrymen, just sent you a PM, thanks a lot for swinging by my thread :D


Yeah fire sparks and sorta low electrical shocks. I already had the electrical checking scheduled this week but sadly it won't be performed by a friend, but rather some paid professional, I just got no such friends:(

thank you everyone.

These electrical problems are common throughout S.E. Asia, I think it's called a floating neutral where the neutral wire is grounded too far away from the home.

I don't think there's anything you can do apart from to ground your house, and even then, you can't buy 3-prong plugs to use with your equipment.

My house supply has a floating neutral + static ground, I'm not sure if this arrangement is safe so would be interested to know. However, I don't experience shocks when touching my electrical equipment any more.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
6,880 (1.02/day)
Location
USA
System Name Computer of Theseus
Processor Intel i9-12900KS: 50x Pcore multi @ 1.18Vcore (target 1.275V -100mv offset)
Motherboard EVGA Z690 Classified
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S, 2xThermalRight TY-143, 4xNoctua NF-A12x25,3xNF-A12x15, 2xAquacomputer Splitty9Active
Memory G-Skill Trident Z5 (32GB) DDR5-6000 C36 F5-6000J3636F16GX2-TZ5RK
Video Card(s) EVGA Geforce 3060 XC Black Gaming 12GB
Storage 1x Samsung 970 Pro 512GB NVMe (OS), 2x Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB (data 1 and 2), ASUS BW-16D1HT
Display(s) Dell S3220DGF 32" 2560x1440 165Hz Primary, Dell P2017H 19.5" 1600x900 Secondary, Ergotron LX arms.
Case Lian Li O11 Air Mini
Audio Device(s) Audiotechnica ATR2100X-USB, El Gato Wave XLR Mic Preamp, ATH M50X Headphones, Behringer 302USB Mixer
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex Platinum SE 1000W 80+ Platinum White
Mouse Zowie EC3-C
Keyboard Vortex Multix 87 Winter TKL (Gateron G Pro Yellow)
Software Win 10 LTSC 21H2
Could you ground to a pipe or sink a large metal rod and then ground to it?
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
These electrical problems are common throughout S.E. Asia, I think it's called a floating neutral where the neutral wire is grounded too far away from the home.

I don't think there's anything you can do apart from to ground your house, and even then, you can't buy 3-prong plugs to use with your equipment.

Just what I thought, some friends claimed to have their house well grounded but when I visited some of them at their home I found out that their metal electronics tickled still but that was a lot better than at my home, here the shocks feel more like a bite and it hurts. thanks for confirming.

Could you ground to a pipe or sink a large metal rod and then ground to it?

The location of my PC is way to far from my garden but I will definitely look into it

Thanks everyone!
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
Wait till you hear what the electrician says. There could be more serious issues behind what is going on.

If you want to ground, the PC, the safest way is to ground your house circuit. Having multiple floating grounds can also be dangerous, I think.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
40,435 (6.58/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
393 (0.08/day)
System Name potato
Processor Ryzen 9 5950X
Motherboard MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk
Cooling Custom WC Loop
Memory 2x16GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600
Video Card(s) RTX3090
Storage 512GB, 2TB NVMe + 2TB SATA || 32TB spinning rust
Display(s) XIAOMI Curved 34" 144Hz UWQHD
Case be quiet dark base pro 900
Audio Device(s) Edifier R1800T, Logitech G733
Power Supply Corsair HX1000
Mouse Logitech G Pro
Keyboard Logitech G913
Software win 11 amd64
Woah, yay! finally a fellow countrymen, just sent you a PM, thanks a lot for swinging by my thread :D
check your inbox bro :cool:

These electrical problems are common throughout S.E. Asia, I think it's called a floating neutral where the neutral wire is grounded too far away from the home.

I don't think there's anything you can do apart from to ground your house, and even then, you can't buy 3-prong plugs to use with your equipment.

My house supply has a floating neutral + static ground, I'm not sure if this arrangement is safe so would be interested to know. However, I don't experience shocks when touching my electrical equipment any more.

it's a TT system in the distribution network, pretty much like in japan.
neutral is grounded at the distribution transformer, and at the service entrance (power meter) there should be local grounding/earthing.
the problem is, local grounding/earthing is usually neglected here, when people building their homes/buildings. my guess is, either the OP don't have a local grounding, or the socket outlet is not connected to the local grounding (contractors trying to save some money and cuts a corner).
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
check your inbox bro :cool:



it's a TT system in the distribution network, pretty much like in japan.
neutral is grounded at the distribution transformer, and at the service entrance (power meter) there should be local grounding/earthing.
the problem is, local grounding/earthing is usually neglected here, when people building their homes/buildings. my guess is, either the OP don't have a local grounding, or the socket outlet is not connected to the local grounding (contractors trying to save some money and cuts a corner).

That sounds right. My apartment has TT earthing with an 30 mA RCM on the outlets and water heaters. However 3 prong plugs are impossible to find here, so nothing is grounded. The neutral's ground reference is far from the local ground leading to shocks. The shocks can get quite big, but not above 30 mA (if they were, the RCB would trip)
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
I learnt a lot about electricty from you guys, damn just now I found electricity to be a very interesting thing to learn. I hope it's not too late, thanks to you, guys!

As for the progress, there is nothing new but rather a regress, the distributor of my PSU turned out to be out of business which means...

F**k my life...

anyway, I won't give up and will try hard to get back with an update, a positive one.

Thanks everyone.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
I learnt a lot about electricty from you guys, damn just now I found electricity to be a very interesting thing to learn. I hope it's not too late, thanks to you, guys!

As for the progress, there is nothing new but rather a regress, the distributor of my PSU turned out to be out of business which means...

F**k my life...

anyway, I won't give up and will try hard to get back with an update, a positive one.

Thanks everyone.

Contact the manufacturer. They'll help - USA support is usually the best.
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
Contact the manufacturer. They'll help - USA support is usually the best.

No response from either thermaltake USA and Asia yet, how terrible life is.
 

Aquinus

Resident Wat-man
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
13,147 (2.94/day)
Location
Concord, NH, USA
System Name Apollo
Processor Intel Core i9 9880H
Motherboard Some proprietary Apple thing.
Memory 64GB DDR4-2667
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon Pro 5600M, 8GB HBM2
Storage 1TB Apple NVMe, 4TB External
Display(s) Laptop @ 3072x1920 + 2x LG 5k Ultrafine TB3 displays
Case MacBook Pro (16", 2019)
Audio Device(s) AirPods Pro, Sennheiser HD 380s w/ FIIO Alpen 2, or Logitech 2.1 Speakers
Power Supply 96w Power Adapter
Mouse Logitech MX Master 3
Keyboard Logitech G915, GL Clicky
Software MacOS 12.1
sadly it is now completely dead, a sudden brownout last night put it out of its misery :(

it can no longer power on, will see if my PSU is still under its warranty period oh and let alone the chain effects and such damn this suchan ordeal.

thank you everyone.

Are brownouts common in your area? If your machine wasn't protected in the first place is it possible that dirty power is what messed it up in the first place? In which case, before you do anything, you should purchase a half-decent UPS to protect you from such events.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
The PSU will usually compensate for brownouts, i think they can operate from 100 V ~ 280 V. I've had a couple that have died from the power spikes when the electricity resumes, however. I think it's the over-volting of components that leads to wear.

To the OP, send another e-mail and also look if they have a tech-support number, Skype credit is fairly cheap.
 

Aquinus

Resident Wat-man
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
13,147 (2.94/day)
Location
Concord, NH, USA
System Name Apollo
Processor Intel Core i9 9880H
Motherboard Some proprietary Apple thing.
Memory 64GB DDR4-2667
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon Pro 5600M, 8GB HBM2
Storage 1TB Apple NVMe, 4TB External
Display(s) Laptop @ 3072x1920 + 2x LG 5k Ultrafine TB3 displays
Case MacBook Pro (16", 2019)
Audio Device(s) AirPods Pro, Sennheiser HD 380s w/ FIIO Alpen 2, or Logitech 2.1 Speakers
Power Supply 96w Power Adapter
Mouse Logitech MX Master 3
Keyboard Logitech G915, GL Clicky
Software MacOS 12.1
The PSU will usually compensate for brownouts, i think they can operate from 100 V ~ 280 V. I've had a couple that have died from the power spikes when the electricity resumes, however. I think it's the over-volting of components that leads to wear.

To the OP, send another e-mail and also look if they have a tech-support number, Skype credit is fairly cheap.

You're under exaggerating the issues that can be caused by brownouts.

SuperUser has a great explanation that none of us have to recreate:

SuperUser Post said:
A brownout is an undervoltage condition, when the AC supply drops below the nominal value by about 10% (Nominal meaning 110-120 or 220-240 in most places). So in the US a brownout might be defined as the AC voltage dropping below 99V. The Intel specification for ATX power supplies specifies that voltages between 90 and 135, and 180 and 265 should allow correct power supply operation (section 3.1), so the power supply will still run normally even when a noticeable brownout occurs.

Some people also include very brief power dropouts (under 30mS, or about 2 AC cycles) as brownouts, as incandescent bulbs will briefly, but visibly, dim during that time similar to a real undervoltage condition.

In either case, Intel defines them as undervoltage conditions, and discusses what requirements an ATX power supply has to follow under such conditions in section 3.1.3 of Intel's ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide

The power supply shall contain protection circuitry such that the application of an input voltage below the minimum specified in Section 3.1, Table 1, shall not cause damage to the power supply.

Typically power supplies have an input section composed of a bunch of interesting circuitry that, at the end of the day, provides about 308 VAC to a transformer, which then powers the regulation and conditioning circuitry. This circuitry actually forms the major basis of the regulation circuitry, and if you are using less than the full wattage of the power supply may be able to manage with significant undervoltage conditions without falling out of regulation on the output side.

When a brownout occurs, the powersupply will attempt to deliver the rated current for as long as it can (based on the incoming voltage and current) and if it cannot maintain regulation it'll deassert the Power Good signal going to the motherboard. The motherboard is responsible for deasserting the power on signal going to the supply, and if it does so in time, then the supply will drop all its output and turn off.

If the motherboard fails to do this, the powersupply should drop its rails when it falls too far out of regulation, but that is not guaranteed, and with low quality power supplies you may find your components and motherboard receiving undervoltage conditions as well.

What happens at that point depends on how robust those components are, but it's generally not a good thing as the components attempt to operate at the lower voltage. Keep in mind that the power supply always supplies an undervoltage on power down for a brief time (dropping the outputs to 0 is not instantaneous) so very brief undervoltage periods are fine. The problem only occurs if the power supply remains in an undervoltage state for a long period of time, which can only occur if both the power supply and motherboard fail to realize the problem, and continue to attempt to operate.

Keep in mind that the Intel specification is not much more than an industry guideline, and there are no certifying bodies. Even good power supplies are not bound by any agreement to follow its recommendations. My favorite section is 3.1.5. I've seen many power supplies, both expensive and cheap, fail to keep those recommendations!

The specific effects differ depending on the component being discussed, which is really a separate discussion.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
I'm not sure if that information talks about automatically switching power supplies though. That is the ATX standard, most branded PSUs exceed this by quite a lot. You've have to check the spec sheet for that particular PSU.

I believe most modern ones are switching and there is crossover between the highest voltage when running at 110 V and lowest at 220 V. In effect, there is a large operativg voltage range when running a switching power supply, you don't have to worry about the 110 or 220 +/- 10% it's actually 110 to 220 V +/- 10%

Edit - the TT unit the op has specifies this: Input Voltage100 VAC- 240 VAC.

From what I've read, going too far below 100 V is a no-no, but otherwise, damage is unlikely. Maybe someone with more knowledge could chime in.

Edit 2: I found the link you got that from, and the second explanation on there is much more detailed.

http://superuser.com/questions/113113/why-are-brownouts-so-harmful

Edit 3 - Your advice is spot on though, a UPS will protect against dirty power.
 
Last edited:

Aquinus

Resident Wat-man
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
13,147 (2.94/day)
Location
Concord, NH, USA
System Name Apollo
Processor Intel Core i9 9880H
Motherboard Some proprietary Apple thing.
Memory 64GB DDR4-2667
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon Pro 5600M, 8GB HBM2
Storage 1TB Apple NVMe, 4TB External
Display(s) Laptop @ 3072x1920 + 2x LG 5k Ultrafine TB3 displays
Case MacBook Pro (16", 2019)
Audio Device(s) AirPods Pro, Sennheiser HD 380s w/ FIIO Alpen 2, or Logitech 2.1 Speakers
Power Supply 96w Power Adapter
Mouse Logitech MX Master 3
Keyboard Logitech G915, GL Clicky
Software MacOS 12.1
I'm not sure if that information talks about automatically switching power supplies though. That is the ATX standard, most branded PSUs exceed this by quite a lot. You've have to check the spec sheet for that particular PSU.

I believe most modern ones are switching and there is crossover between the highest voltage when running at 110 V and lowest at 220 V. In effect, there is a large operativg voltage range when running a switching power supply, you don't have to worry about the 110 or 220 +/- 10% it's actually 110 to 220 V +/- 10%

Edit - the TT unit the op has specifies this: Input Voltage100 VAC- 240 VAC.

From what I've read, going too far below 100 V is a no-no, but otherwise, damage is unlikely. Maybe someone with more knowledge could chime in.

Edit 2: I found the link you got that from, and the second explanation on there is much more detailed.

http://superuser.com/questions/113113/why-are-brownouts-so-harmful

Edit 3 - Your advice is spot on though, a UPS will protect against dirty power.

RIght, but as I understand it, it is up to the motherboard is deassert Power On when the PSU deasserts power good. If the motherboard doesn't do that, the PSU will stay on regardless of input voltage and might deliver lower voltages if it drops below 100v. That's what I was getting at. It could be a great PSU, but if the motherboard keeps the PSU on when power good goes low, then it's just in a bad state. It's not the PSU that gets damaged, it's the components that get supplied the lower voltage.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
No the PSU should power down if the voltage dips below nominal for too long this is related to the protection element that stop the DC voltage dipping too low on the output end. The motherboard doesn't send the off signal. Basically, the PSU will continue to try to output 12 VDC until it can no longer do so and it then shuts down.

One of the reasons that brownouts can be so dangerous (for the PSU) when they dip below 90 V is that the PSU will continue to try outputting 12 VDC. The power usage goes up as does the heat, and the efficiency goes out the window.

In the US, you do have to worry about brownouts and have generally lower efficiency. Outside of the US, you get better efficiency, but spikes are an issue and household electricity is more dangerous.

Brownouts can happen elsewhere in the world, but they are typically short lived and don't last much longer than would happen when power-cycling your PC. Spikes happen all the time where I live, I notice them more often now when the lights flash briefly and my UPS beeps.
 
Last edited:

Aquinus

Resident Wat-man
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
13,147 (2.94/day)
Location
Concord, NH, USA
System Name Apollo
Processor Intel Core i9 9880H
Motherboard Some proprietary Apple thing.
Memory 64GB DDR4-2667
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon Pro 5600M, 8GB HBM2
Storage 1TB Apple NVMe, 4TB External
Display(s) Laptop @ 3072x1920 + 2x LG 5k Ultrafine TB3 displays
Case MacBook Pro (16", 2019)
Audio Device(s) AirPods Pro, Sennheiser HD 380s w/ FIIO Alpen 2, or Logitech 2.1 Speakers
Power Supply 96w Power Adapter
Mouse Logitech MX Master 3
Keyboard Logitech G915, GL Clicky
Software MacOS 12.1
Over the last year, my UPS has had 5 events that have required it to switch to battery. That's not too bad, but it's also 5 events that didn't impact my tower either. :)
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
I'll sure be damned and crazy if other components would turn out affected as well. I do use a UPS but that time I forgot to plug the PC back in the UPS and yes brownouts and brief electronic flickerings are very often in here. When I play graphic intensive games like skyrim, crysis, etc, my UPS always fail to keep my PC running lately, but not when I play lower graphic games like minecraft, team fortress, dota, etc. Also I've had my UPS maintained couple months ago. I'm even useing two surge protectors for both protections and extra slots. I will check TT's phone number, thank you everyone.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
4,213 (0.75/day)
Location
Vietnam
System Name Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory 16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s) Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage 750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s) LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s) On Board Realtek
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard Wooting Two / K400+
Software Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758
I'll sure be damned and crazy if other components would turn out affected as well. I do use a UPS but that time I forgot to plug the PC back in the UPS and yes brownouts and brief electronic flickerings are very often in here. When I play graphic intensive games like skyrim, crysis, etc, my UPS always fail to keep my PC running lately, but not when I play lower graphic games like minecraft, team fortress, dota, etc. Also I've had my UPS maintained couple months ago. I'm even useing two surge protectors for both protections and extra slots. I will check TT's phone number, thank you everyone.

UPS maintained? AFAIK you usually have to thrown them away unless they are higher end models with replaceable batteries.

I've actually seen lots of arguments against using UPS to protect from spikes and brownouts, the approximated waveform can be damaging in of itself apparently. I wouldn't go without one though, it has saved my work countless times, and mechanical hard-disks die quite quickly with sudden power loss.

I have a few events each week where my UPS has to kick in, that's how crappy the grid is here.
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
202 (0.04/day)
Location
lol
System Name BrighTaloN
Processor 980X
Motherboard DX58SO2
Cooling Corsair H100 dual cougar 12cm pwm fans
Memory CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G
Case Haf X
Power Supply Toughpower Grand 750
Software 7 Proff 64-bit
Benchmark Scores never did atm
UPS maintained? AFAIK you usually have to thrown them away unless they are higher end models with replaceable batteries.

I've actually seen lots of arguments against using UPS to protect from spikes and brownouts, the approximated waveform can be damaging in of itself apparently. I wouldn't go without one though, it has saved my work countless times, and mechanical hard-disks die quite quickly with sudden power loss.

I have a few events each week where my UPS has to kick in, that's how crappy the grid is here.
Yeah, had it serviced few months ago including battery replacement and yes the battery is replaceable and it is a sinewave line interactive(offline) so it should be PFC PSU friendly.

I can only hope things will be beautiful with all of us eventually. Thank you everyone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xvi
Top