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how would i put a sound system in my car?

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first of this forum has no special bit for sound, as im on about a sound system and this is advice of building system i thought it would be best here but if not feel free to move this thread.

Now ive heard allot of you guys talking about your cars and the sound systems youve fited to them. And i wish to do the same to mine. Ive recently passed my test, well six months ago, and i dont care about looks speed or sound of the car. All i want is a nice decent sound system. Now i have no idea what im doing here so this is where i need your guidance. Im asking for help for everything. From which equipment to buy, how to fit it all and how to wire it all up. I understand im asking for a lot here so feel free just to answer the bit you no or non at all if you dnt have to time to spend helping out. So please guys help me out with this. thanks.
 
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I'll be following that... I visited some tuning forums, but they don't help much. I don't understand a word. Its like I'm a blondie and they are scientints at CERN.
 
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I'll be following that... I visited some tuning forums, but they don't help much. I don't understand a word. Its like I'm a blondie and they are scientints at CERN.

haha i feel exactly the same i no nothing of what equipment to buy how to hook it up anything an its like on other sights ive seen when googling this they expect you to already have knowlege of how to wire these things up
 
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All I can say is don't buy cheap sets. Like we preach with hardware: Quality matters.
 
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aye i no but thats the problem. I dont what is bad and what isn't. I dont wanna be like every other bloke forcing the whole of blackpool to hear their music i just want bass. i NEEEEEED bass :p
 
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aye i no but thats the problem. I dont what is bad and what isn't. I dont wanna be like every other bloke forcing the whole of blackpool to hear their music i just want bass. i NEEEEEED bass :p

Like the Jackhammer they put in a car on Pimp my Ride once? The one with, how many... 13000 Watts? What I picked up from various forums is, that the RMS is important, not the Wattage they tell you. A 1000W woofer does not have 1000W RMS, there are cheap ones that put out 100 or less or so. Thats not nice then.
 
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this is my point what the hell is RMS?
 

EastCoasthandle

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Exactly, by a reputable quality system that has a history of longevity. Don't just look at the watts, added features alone. Furthermore, you have to know something about your car. Can you actually replace your stereo without disabling some other feature? Some cars actually have other features built into the radio so you will need to research it. Does the radio crank enough watts without the need for an amp? This is something you have to research (very important thing to find out)? Lastly, I suggest that you take your car to a shop were they can professionally install your setup. I know those shops are not as abundant as it was in the early part of 2000 but do your homework.

Installing a sound system in your car isn't the same as building your PC. Here are a few pointers:
-Does the radio actually fit? The last thing you want to do is start cutting up the dashboard or inner portion of the dashboard of your car.
-Does the radio/system come with a wiring kit that allows you to attach your connector from the wiring of your car to the radio without splicing wires? Usually this is something that a professional stereo shop would have. This is very important because if you get another radio or just change your mind all you need is a new wiring harness kit. You don't have to figure out how to reattach pins that you cut off the wires.

-Have an understanding of the electrical aspect of your car. Does your radio run off the battery or the alternator or something else?
-Is the alternator/battery in your car enough to power your system without it sacrificing other aspects of your car? Like power to your spark plugs, windows, door locks, etc?
-Will you need a "cap" (or other accessories) in order to properly regulate your new system?
-Will you need to install a more beefier battery that still fits inside the battery tray of your car or swappable beefier alternator?
-Do you need to consider buying a second battery and do you have a place to install it? For example a Optima Deep Cycling type of battery?
-Do you believe you need to invest in an amp?

There is a lot involved here and there is a lot of things you have to consider. This isn't something you want to go experimenting with unless you have a well thought out plan.
 
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YinYang.ERROR

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I'll be following that... I visited some tuning forums, but they don't help much. I don't understand a word. Its like I'm a blondie and they are scientints at CERN.

LOL

I felt like that when I first came to this forum, I must say I have learned a lot.
 

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this is my point what the hell is RMS?

root mean square, that`s the base data for the actual power of an amplifier:)
some manufacturers highlighted PMPO (peak music peak output) watts to catch consumers` attention, clever sales talk:laugh:


aye i no but thats the problem. I dont what is bad and what isn't. I dont wanna be like every other bloke forcing the whole of blackpool to hear their music i just want bass. i NEEEEEED bass :p

what are your plans for it, what are your music trips? is it rock & roll:rockout: or hip-hop style:ohwell:

I hope the moderators will consider this:laugh: its not a PC related topic anymore:(

PC audio system yes im willing to help you, but i dont want to risk getting an infraction bro:(, my hard earned 5 stars:rockout: will be replaced with BANNED:banghead: word:laugh: so request first on the moderators...
 
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I always thought RMS stood for Required Measurement of Sound since basically a RMS read on a amp or speaker is it's constant signal read. Most people get screwed say at Walmart cause they see a AMP that is 1000Watts...that's peak. NEVER READ PEAK. My rule of thumb is when buying any speaker is to make sure the AMP can ALWAYS supply the RMS and buy quality over quantity(watts I mean).
These are some of the decks I've used and enjoyed:
Kenwood(I've used the Excelon series for years and keep going back for more:D)
Alpine
Clarion
Pioneer(Not sure if they make their Premiere series anymore but I have alot friends that like them)

Speakers and Subs:
Boston Acoustic
Phoenix Gold
Kicker
Kenwood Excelon(I've never liked their basic Kenwood speakers...puke)
Alpine Type R and Type X Series(Type S are OK but there is so much better)

Amps:
Pretty much what the Speakers list is including:
Audiobahn
Memphis Car Audio(http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/amplifiers/)

Hopefully that helps out a little.
 

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Just tell them that you are using your laptop to play some music then you install an FM transmitter and using your Car Audio System for an amplifier:laugh: how about that allibi:roll:


just kidding guys:laugh:
 

Tau

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You need to identify a few things first.

Speaker setup wanted. (coaxials/components)
Number of such speakers required.
Headunit Features wanted (headunit is the deck)
Quality of sound or Loudness?
Price Point.


Honestly the sky is the limit with audio related products, so best bet is to pick a price point then match parts to that price point. though you can also build the setup in sections, instead of all at once as well.

Once you pickup your pricerange, then look at headunits, you will want to find a headunit that will fit your needs, as well as a feature list that you need, since you will be working with the headunit all the time. Personally i like the Premier line from Pioneer (its their pro line with extra warranty, better features, etc.) i would expect to spend ~250-400 on a GOOD headunit. I have worked with a couple Clarions, their not to bad, a little butotn heavy, though they also feel a bit cheap to me. Alpine is basically the other major headunit to consider... they make a great product, though their menus are garbage...

Once you have picked that out, then start looking at speakers... no depending on budget you might get away with driving the speakers off your headunit, or if you need an amp for them.

Then you need to also pickout a woofer(s) and a matching amp for it/them. Again all depending on budget.

Then you need to decide on the box you will be putting the sub(s) in, determine if you want a ported/sealed box... etc.

Dont fill your budget up with just those parts, figure on ~15-25% of the cost of the parts in cabling for it.

Also completly ignore "Peak wattage" all you need to do is pay attention to RMS wattage wich is the "real" rating. Depending on the parts you will also want amps that can supply MORE than what the speakers are rated for... then tune accordingly...

Anymore questions feel free to ask, I did custom car stereos for a local place for a few years :)

On a side note if you are interested in a KILLER system i will be getting rid of mine for ALOT less than retail, will come with speakers, amps, and all the cable too. competition winning grade.
 

dna1x

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A cherry setup would be a $200 or greater Alpine head unit with MB Quarts all around.

You can add an amp and sub to your taste.

I don't need to be heard bass thumping and rattling ten miles away and I don't want my sounds to be worth more than my ride like some of my friends but that's just me.
 
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