pestisnart
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I registered in order to say thank you.
This is in response to an outdated thread:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1682495#post1682495
The issue is a D-Link DGS-1008D gigabit switch which fails with a row of eternal flashing lights.
I would have thrown it away if not for this forum and the cited thread.
I replaced the 1000uf 16v capacitor in the power supply for the switch and it works fine again. Yes, the 1A P/S reads 11.5V in open-circuit - but mine reads 8.25V under load.
Incidentally, when I tested the (4) 50V 2A RL201 rectifier diodes, they failed a continuity test. However, they read 18 Ohms forward. This is aparently within spec - and the P/S works fine. I am posting this via my working DGS-1008D.
Thank you again for the helpful discussion.
--pestisnart
[keywords: D-Link Dlink gigabit switch DGS-1008D DGS1008D DGS 1008 1008D flashing ]
This is in response to an outdated thread:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1682495#post1682495
The issue is a D-Link DGS-1008D gigabit switch which fails with a row of eternal flashing lights.
I would have thrown it away if not for this forum and the cited thread.
I replaced the 1000uf 16v capacitor in the power supply for the switch and it works fine again. Yes, the 1A P/S reads 11.5V in open-circuit - but mine reads 8.25V under load.
Incidentally, when I tested the (4) 50V 2A RL201 rectifier diodes, they failed a continuity test. However, they read 18 Ohms forward. This is aparently within spec - and the P/S works fine. I am posting this via my working DGS-1008D.
Thank you again for the helpful discussion.
--pestisnart
[keywords: D-Link Dlink gigabit switch DGS-1008D DGS1008D DGS 1008 1008D flashing ]
Just wanted to say thanks to @ddcruz and @freetvuser! I ran into exactly the same problem today - all of the sudden my DGS-1008D Rev. C4, which had been operating flawlessly 24/7/365 for three years, stopped working and blinked the LEDs in exactly the same way as you described here. I searched for "d-link dgs1008d led error codes" and that led me right to this thread.
I followed @freetvuser's suggestion and replaced the bad capacitor in the power supply and now my DGS-1008D is up and running again!
Some additions:
1. To open the power supply, you can use a thin saw to saw in the crack on one of the long sides. Once you're through, put a big screwdriver in the sawed crack and twist it to crack the other three sides open. This method allowed me to keep the casing mostly intact and tape it together after replacing the capacitor.
2. After replacing the capacitor, I measured the output voltage again, and found it was still close to 12 volts (nominal output is 7.5V 1A DC) - yet now the switch is happily initializing and working...
3. The power supply is as simple as it gets: Transformer, 4 diodes, capacitor. You can't build a DC power supply cheaper than that. The upside is that the parts are so standard that you can easily replace them.
Again, thanks for this thread, guys - it helped me fix a broken switch today!