replacing the metal socket thingy on the psu mainboard connector

[Easy Rhino]

i was assembling one of my rigs the other day and went to turn on the power and the rig would not boot so i unhooked the psu from the mainboard and noticed that one of the 24 pin connectors was actually missing the metal socket piece that fits inside it. low and behold, i believe when i pulled that psu from another mainboard it stuck to that one causing problems with it too so i am a moron for two reasons now. is there an easy way to replace the metal socket thingy that fits into the mainboard power connector?

 

[Cold Storm]

i was assembling one of my rigs the other day and went to turn on the power and the rig would not boot so i unhooked the psu from the mainboard and noticed that one of the 24 pin connectors was actually missing the metal socket piece that fits inside it. low and behold, i believe when i pulled that psu from another mainboard it stuck to that one causing problems with it too so i am a moron for two reasons now. is there an easy way to replace the metal socket thingy that fits into the mainboard power connector?

You can just buy a new 24 pin connector from somewhere like frozencpu and just unhook all the connections and connecting the new top.. Or, just take it off, get some metal of the same "size" and place it back in.


Edit: like this one

 

[Mussels]

if you look at modding stores online, they often sell replacements for that kind of thing so that you can snip the wires and replace the plug with colored/sleeved ones.

 

[micropage7]

yep but if you wanna do you can take from your molex
plug in that and done

 

[Easy Rhino]

yep but if you wanna do you can take from your molex
plug in that and done

ok, i guess i will try this one first. but before i try will the molex plug stick back into the psu connector easily?

 

[nINJAkECIL]

Do you have any broken psu?
I'd take the missing plug from a broken psu, coz if you look closely, the molex (4pin) connector doesn't fit into the 24pin mobo (molex has a round connector, while 24pin psu/mobo has a square connector)
Just rip the connector from your broken psu, take the cable with missing connector, solder it and put it back in.

 

[Derek12]

I would replace from another PSU connector like said, but very careful to solder properly to avoid voltage drops, and localized heat in the joints.

 

[m4gicfour]

You can either scavenge the contact from another connector, or if you can find the (proper) name for it, you can usually order the piece, and the correct tool to remove/insert the pins from somewhere like

DigiKey
Newark
Mouser

etc etc.

Actually replacing the pin is fairly easy, so long as it wasn't damaged taking it out. You just attach the pin to the wire, and then insert the pin from the back side of the plastic connector. They just have little metal tabs (flaps, really) that hold them in the plastic connector, and usually a crimp section for holding to the wire. This also means that the plastic connector needs to be undamaged (the section that the metal tabs hook to inside the pin socket) You can also solder them to the wire, if you are very careful. There's various theories as to whether soldering or crimping is "better". AFAIK Mil-Spec aircraft cabling uses all machine-crimped connectors because machine-crimped is more reliable than hand-soldered or hand-crimped. IDK which is better between hand methods, for that particular style connector.

FYI - if the connector pin stuck inside the socket on the other mainboard, it could be a sign that you were over-drawing on that rail (too much current). Powering the PC on and off can cause cycles of heat expansion in any wire that's being over-currented and over time will cause crimps to loosen, or solder joints to weaken. Not much you can do about that except make sure the connector is properly seated and that you're using all the available power inputs on your motherboard.

 

[oily_17]

If you haven't another PSU to use, you can buy replacement pins for the connector.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...PCI_EPS_Connector_Pins_-_Female_-_4_Pack.html

 

[95Viper]

@Easy Rhino> You are talking about a pin other than pin 20... the reason is, pin 20 is not used and contains no pin on most connectors.
It was done away with (optionally) in ATX version 1.3, it was or could be -5V (white wire).

If you are speaking of another pin, sorry, just ignore my post.

 

[Easy Rhino]

@Easy Rhino> You are talking about a pin other than pin 20... the reason is, pin 20 is not used and contains no pin on most connectors.
It was done away with (optionally) in ATX version 1.3, it was or could be -5V (white wire).

http://thingsfinder.com/files/img/1/31/G_70.jpg


If you are speaking of another pin, sorry, just ignore my post.

i figured that out this morning anyway, i was able to get the problem rig working and all is good now. thanks guys.

 

[Derek12]

i figured that out this morning anyway, i was able to get the problem rig working and all is good now. thanks guys.

An what was the problem? just curious
BTW I initially though that was another besides the pin 20, because the cable (white) from that pin generally is missing too .

 

[dr emulator (madmax)]

An what was the problem? just curious
BTW I initially though that was another besides the pin 20, because the cable (white) from that pin generally is missing too .

same here

please post pics in future Easy Rhino, as it makes it easy to see what your talking about