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Do I need a second Radiator?

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No, don't worry.

It's going to be fine, I've seen pumps being placed worse and running for years without issues.

The only thing that can ruin a pump badly is running without water for extended period of times.
 
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Got everything up and running, thanks guys :) Here is a picture, not as clean as I would have liked but I had no where else to put the pump and it is my first build anyway ( The messiness around the pump is hidden by the side window anyway :p) a - http://imgur.com/9k8T7Li

One other question I had is whether or not I really need a kill coil or if it is better to use those biocide drops. (I havn't bought either yet)

EDIT: I have actually straightened up the pump using some wire so that it isn't as messy :p
 
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I personally use Aquacomputer's premixed, the DP ultra clear, it's given me the best results as it inhibits copper reactions inside the loop.

They are there even if you use an all copper/brass loop, it's not like mixing aluminium and copper of course but it'll be worth it in the long time to maintain your components.

It's a bit expensive but I've been running the same radiators for a while and the water is still clean after a year and that's enough to get me spending a bit more over distilled :)
 
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I personally use Aquacomputer's premixed, the DP ultra clear, it's given me the best results as it inhibits copper reactions inside the loop.

They are there even if you use an all copper/brass loop, it's not like mixing aluminium and copper of course but it'll be worth it in the long time to maintain your components.

It's a bit expensive but I've been running the same radiators for a while and the water is still clean after a year and that's enough to get me spending a bit more over distilled :)

I will definitely take a look at it :) What speed should the pump be on? From 1 to 5?
 
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Pick a balanced settings, one that doesn't bother you noise wise and that it keeps the water flowing enough to not make temperatures go high.

I don't know D5s pumps that much, should ask the54thvoid about that, I'm more of a DDC guy :)

You should notice anyway that after a certain flow speed temperatures do not get better or noticeably better, that's where you want to keep your pump running at.
 
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Durvelle27

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Definitely add an additional rad bud. One 360 is cutting it very close.

I'm using 3x 240mm with a D5 pump + Swiftech Helix Fans and there great
 
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ek wb has a reservoir+2 pumps for 250 euro that is very cool and as big as a dvd-reader
i use one : http://postimg.org/gallery/54hlnneu/
card is a sabertooth x79 with a 3820 .

do not connect cpu to vga , always insert a radiator between them . all you have will generate a lot of heat when gaming .
you could try to find 3 x 120 = 360 , that has 4 or 6 g1/4
like this one :

you plug cpu in one side and connect the 2 vga directly with the other side , with Y you connect the out of vga to the 360 radiator , then pump , then cpu
 
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I haven't seen from this thread - what are your temps with that setup? I mean that is basically a 120 rad for the chip, and one for each card. None of those devices run really that hot... not at that OC anyways... adding a rad into a loop can be a mixed bag - it will definitely help, but a push pull setup on the fans, or a better rad location (as an intake) of the rad that you have now may give you what you are looking for.

I would agree with the above regarding connecting GPU to the CPU loop - usually single loops for each are better with less rad involved.
 
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So my first EK Laing D5 Vario pump seemed to be defective. After I took it literally straight out of it's box and put it in my loop, it started leaking from the back. So I took it back and got a replacement. The new one I got worked well, I had it in my loop for about a day until I decided to re-arrange the tubing and I moved it to a new spot. Everything seemed fine but after running a leak test for a couple of hours with the new arrangement, this pump started leaking aswell? From the exact same spot; at the back of the pump. I do not understand why this is happening, I am being very very careful with everything and was especially cautious after the first pump started leaking. So..... I don't know, maybe they are just very fragile? Anyway, I bought a different pump; an EK DDC 3.25 12v DC pump.
 
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you should have take : http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs.../ek-bay-res-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-serial-pump.html
the flow is very powerful and there is no leak at all
i always use koolance tubes and fittings :

with some others connectors from bitspower and that never leaks

i use keys like that

to finish tightening the bolts

and with connectors i also use this tool :


there is no need to do as HULK but that helps to be sure to do it well , with plastics it is "dangerous" . i usually add a quarter to a half turn in addition to the clamping with fingers .

with your pump , you forgot to use a clamp



at this position [in the red circle] and with the pump base of blue tube too


you can get from : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_953_954_1231
 
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you should have take : http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs.../ek-bay-res-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-serial-pump.html
the flow is very powerful and there is no leak at all
i always use koolance tubes and fittings :

with some others connectors from bitspower and that never leaks

i use keys like that

to finish tightening the bolts

and with connectors i also use this tool :


there is no need to do as HULK but that helps to be sure to do it well , with plastics it is "dangerous" . i usually add a quarter to a half turn in addition to the clamping with fingers .

with your pump , you forgot to use a clamp



at this position [in the red circle] and with the pump base of blue tube too


you can get from : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_953_954_1231

Thanks for the info man :D I had actually bought some tube clamps but turned out they were the wrong size. Instead I am just using some of those industrial standard cable ties used in plumbing.
 
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Sorry, but the whole "always put a radiator between blocks" thing is a(n admittedly hard to kill) misconception. Myself, and a few other members at OCN, have tested this quite thoroughly, and none of us have seen more than a 1*C variation in Delta-T temps regardless of radiator placement. This is with some pretty extensive temp measuring equipment, and measuring the in/out water temps of each block and rad in each of our loops (that's >10 temp sensors for my loop, some had more, others less). Couple that with thermal probes and quality IR thermometers (Fluke units for me), and I am comfortable saying that the testing was quite thorough.

THE ONLY RULES for loop layout are as follows:
1) ALWAYS place the pump below the reservoir, and the reservoir feeding directly into the pump without anything in-between
2) Route the tubing whichever way requires the least amount, has NO sharp bends/kinks, is most convenient, and most aesthetically pleasing

That's it, that's all the rules there are. Everything else is subjective/opinion, or based on misinformation.


Also, if you're going dual DDC pumps, to this day the Swiftech MCP35x2 top (as in, the stock/original top) is the best performing dual DDC top out there. No reason to spend more, for less.
However, keep in mind that there is no benefit outside of redundancy (in case one pump fails, the other still works), to having multiple pumps if you're already around the 1GPM mark. Increasing flow beyond this does not reduce temperatures "an automatic 3-7 degrees" or anything like that; in fact, with the D5, you can actually end up negating the temperature benefit due to the fact that, unlike the DDC pumps, D5's are cooled directly by the water they are pumping. The result is that while DDC's (being primarily air cooled) only put about 5-10% of their heat into the water (maximum), D5's put 90-95% or more of the 30W+ heat into the water. Now, that doesn't matter much at all when you're running 4x Monsta 560's and a few more rads, but when you're running a low rad space to component ratio loop, 30+ watts is a significant amount.



As to whether or not you would benefit from more radiator space? Absolutely!

I have personally found 140mm-fan based radiators to be a fairly significant improvement over 120mm fan based rads, especially now that 140mm quality fans aren't difficult to find at all. Just to give you an example of the benefits.... A 3x140mm radiator (420) has MORE surface area than a 4x120mm rad (480) just by pure measurements. However, consider that the 420 requires 3 fans, while the 480 requires 4; this might not seem like much, but remember each fan has a dead spot in the center, so a 480 has a full 33% increase in "dead spots" over a 420. Also, the "swept area" to "dead area" of a 140 fan is usually quite a bit better (that is, area covered by spinning fan blades vs area covered/blocked by fan hub and frame).
All told, using equivalent fans on the same model radiators with the only difference being 120 vs 140, I consistently record about a 15-20% performance benefit for the 420 vs the 480. (this is with both UT60 420 vs 480 and Monsta 420 vs 480, using fans with 3.5mmH2O static pressure and 88-93cfm).


As for fans, static pressure is the most important thing for a radiator fan, bar none. Noise is subjective, so while I don't mind the noise from my insanely awesome Koolance fans (5.4mmH2O, 106cfm) due to the performance, other people would (although many people have been quite surprised at just how quiet they are).

Out of the fans on your list, despite my dislike for the company itself, the Corsair SP120PE are undoubtedly the best performer. Noctua are DECENT with MODERATE/ACCEPTABLE performance, they're just really quiet; they are NOT the way to go if you're limited on rad space and want great temps!



If you want a quiet rig, you need to increase the amount of radiator space (and my suggestion is to utilize push-pull fans, regardless, as you can run lower speeds while the temps still benefit) or accept poor temperature performance.

For your system, if it were my setup, I'd be running a MINIMUM of something like a UT60 420 + 240/280, so in your case, already having a 360 rad (I really like the XSPC EX rads myself), a 420 UT60 would be perfect in terms of allowing you to run quietly with good performance, or increase fan speed for GREAT temps!
 
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your system is not a killer , i mean except the cpu , the rest is not so HOT . and you seem to use two radiators...
the big one should be after the cpu and the second one after your vga no ?
by the way , having a radiator between each block or like i did with a monster 360 connecting 2 blocks in and 2 blocks out [ 3 x gtx 570 + 1 x 560ti ]
can only lower the temp
while a 150 w cpu plus 2 x gtx 780 in a row can only be a very dangerous loop with bad perfs
may be the article about the apogee hd will help you to understand what i mean : http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx#tab1
 
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I don't believe it does matter. Listen about the second radiator it also depends the positioning it might sound good but hard to do in your case it ain't bad but an AX and RX are pretty similar and with my RX360 my system(i7 2700K at 4.5Ghz and + 670 )run's perfect with just push with my noctuas at 8volts i do have push pull but if i am not gaming i turn the others of, when i am gaming i just turn the other fans(phobya) at 7 volts my Gpu doesn't go over 35 Celsius with room temp at 17 and mind that my D5 is at stage 3 of 5. If you want to see a good water cooling site go to martinsliquidlab.org .
 
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What case is that?
 
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