Finally!! Going to Water, But need some Help Picking the Parts :D

[DOM]

According to hardwareluxx printed, the updated MagiCools have a better flowrate then the new Black Ices. But it is still DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E choise which radiator he want. Black Ice sure is a known/good brand, but i'm sure this MagiCool stuff isn't that bad..

My watertemps are always < 26°C, with an ambient of about 18-21°C. If he want to save some money, imho the radiator is a good choise. Time to quote you again.

My head hurts why cant everything just be good and all the same

but 18-21°C that a cool room there, Im from Texas but it still snowed 2 days ago

 

[DOM]

The Black Ice series feature two models: the GTS series and the GTX series. The GTS series are the basic radiators which are 29.6mm thick(triple 120mm radiator dimensions: 133x397x29.60 mm width/height/thickness) while the GTX series are the "extreme"(better) version with 55.7mm thickness. It's easy to see that the GTX series are the better radiators. Meanwhile the X-Flow is based on the same design but it is a single pass radiator, while the GTS and the GTX series are dual pass radiators. These days everybody uses dual pass rads in watercooling loops. Next in terms of performance after the GTX comes the Thermochill PA series...as I mentioned earlier.

no, I meant which is the next lowest to the GTX sorry if I didnt make myself cear, but the GTS's are not that thick so that PrimoChill might be good cuz its 46mm

 

[DOM]

@ funkflix that Rad. is it a dual pass? PrimoChill

 

[funkflix]

@ funkflix that Rad. is it a dual pass? PrimoChill

Imho yes.

but 18-21°C that a cool room there, Im from Texas but it still snowed 2 days ago

Spring is finally coming here, no need to heat the rooms anymore.

 

[Wile E]

In my opinion dom, you should stick with the original reservoir that you picked. I much prefer urethane over acrylic for a res. Much less likely to crack. Oh, and it's cheap.

I would still opt for the DD cpu block, if it were me. The petra performs better, but is more expensive. I would use the extra money elsewhere, as the DD cpu block will suit your needs just fine. It's still a damn good block.

The regcooler also looks like it could be a potential bottleneck. Are there any reviews of it floating around? I'm just curious how big the internal passages are on it, and how well it flows.

I like the petra pump, especially since you added reg cooling to the list. The extra head will come in handy.

And again, if it were my system, I'd go with the plain ol' Black Ice GTS rad, and save myself some loot. The GTS is more than capable of cooling your system, and even any parts you're likely to throw at it in the next couple of years. Keep the extra money to use for a DX10 upgrade when you're ready. If you're absolutely not comfortable with the GTS rad, then the PrimoChill would be my second choice.

 

[t_ski]

I know I might be coming to this thread a little late, but here's my $.02.

First of all, skip the chipset block(s). They usually have no real effect on performance, and you can find passive or quiet ones for less money. They also tend to add restriction and heat to the loop, which makes the whole performance of the loop suffer.

Second, same for the Mosfet Heattrap, unless it's absolutely neccessary. But I seriously doubt it.

Third, skip the reservoir and use a T-line instead. If you want the extra coolant in the loop that you could get from a res, buy a Danger Den Fillport Res. It attaches to the fillport and goes down to the T-line, allowing bubles to escape up the T and coolant to flow down the T as needed.

Forth, if this is your first watercooling experience, you should try your best to keep this as simple as possible. It looks like you've got a decent list of parts (although I would recommend a DD or Swiftech block from my own experiences with them), just don't make it too complicated if it doesn't need to be. After you put it all together, if you find you need something else then add it. Don't waste your time and $$ on things you don't need.

 

[DOM]

In my opinion dom, you should stick with the original reservoir that you picked. I much prefer urethane over acrylic for a res. Much less likely to crack. Oh, and it's cheap.

Yeah I might cuz looks dont really matter to me cuz there the same style and thats an extra $19

I would still opt for the DD cpu block, if it were me. The petra performs better, but is more expensive. I would use the extra money elsewhere, as the DD cpu block will suit your needs just fine. It's still a damn good block.

Well just $12 for a better block its not to much

The regcooler also looks like it could be a potential bottleneck. Are there any reviews of it floating around? I'm just curious how big the internal passages are on it, and how well it flows.

Well funkflix said its the one he has in his setup and IDK anything about it

I like the petra pump, especially since you added reg cooling to the list. The extra head will come in handy.

Yea did you see the Review on post #16 for the pump
Regcooler I got it cuz I plan on have it Oced more for 24/7 use cuz im not spending all this $$ just to have it at 3.2 or 3.6GHz cuz I can get it with the BT cuz at 3.2GHz I dont even break 50C on ORTHOS

And again, if it were my system, I'd go with the plain ol' Black Ice GTS rad, and save myself some loot. The GTS is more than capable of cooling your system, and even any parts you're likely to throw at it in the next couple of years. Keep the extra money to use for a DX10 upgrade when you're ready. If you're absolutely not comfortable with the GTS rad, then the PrimoChill would be my second choice.

PrimoChill is what funkflix has but I need to find out if its Dual Pass for sure, cuz the GTS is only Width 133mm/Height 397mm/Thickness 29.60mm and the PrimoChill is Width 135mm/Height 415mm/Thickness 46mm
but for its price its not bad if it has Dual Pass.

And DX10 im not untill I really need to but Thanks for your concern
all this stuff going on a card with 0% for 12 months

 

[DOM]

I know I might be coming to this thread a little late, but here's my $.02.

Its okay have'nt oder anything yet

First of all, skip the chipset block(s). They usually have no real effect on performance, and you can find passive or quiet ones for less money. They also tend to add restriction and heat to the loop, which makes the whole performance of the loop suffer.

Well im going 1/2 on the tube and as I told Wile E im planning on pushing it more then 3.6GHz for everyday use. and the NB,SB are going to be set higher or at max so thats why I want them

Second, same for the Mosfet Heattrap, unless it's absolutely neccessary. But I seriously doubt it.

well just for insurance if they get to hot as they do get a lil hot

Third, skip the reservoir and use a T-line instead. If you want the extra coolant in the loop that you could get from a res, buy a Danger Den Fillport Res. It attaches to the fillport and goes down to the T-line, allowing bubles to escape up the T and coolant to flow down the T as needed.

That sounds good but Im going to need to add more coolant more often as it doesnt hold that much.

Forth, if this is your first watercooling experience, you should try your best to keep this as simple as possible. It looks like you've got a decent list of parts (although I would recommend a DD or Swiftech block from my own experiences with them), just don't make it too complicated if it doesn't need to be. After you put it all together, if you find you need something else then add it. Don't waste your time and $$ on things you don't need.

You make a good point but my rig was my 1st and wheres the fun if its simple but money comes and goes, I might die in a day,week,year,etc..you know what I trying to say, the whole Rig I didnt need but I got it
but Thanks for your concern

 

[t_ski]

Well im going 1/2 on the tube and as I told Wile E im planning on pushing it more then 3.6GHz for everyday use. and the NB,SB are going to be set higher or at max so thats why I want them

OK, then, just check with other users of your board and see if they needed to use water cooling to get better clocks. From all other boards I've seen (none 775 though) there has been no real benefit, other than adding a bit to your e-penis.

well just for insurance if they get to hot as they do get a lil hot

Same as that part above.

That sounds good but Im going to need to add more coolant more often as it doesnt hold that much.

If your system has no leaks, and you are using quality tubing (not vinyl tubing), you will not need to add more coolant after the initial bleed and fill. If you use vinyl tubing there is a slight bit of loss, but the Fillport res will hold a lot more than you would need. Besides, if you had it running that long that you would need to fill it some more, it's probably time to tear it down and clean it out anyway.

You make a good point but my rig was my 1st and wheres the fun if its simple but money comes and goes, I might die in a day,week,year,etc..you know what I trying to say, the whole Rig I didnt need but I got it
but Thanks for your concern

Well, there is a bit of a learning curve to it. Plus there's not harm in doing it right. If you go through and do 50 things, it makes more places to look (and possibly miss) when you have something go wrong. If you start small and get the basics, you can tear it apart in a week and add more if and when you need it.

 

[DOM]

OK, then, just check with other users of your board and see if they needed to use water cooling to get better clocks. From all other boards I've seen (none 775 though) there has been no real benefit, other than adding a bit to your e-penis.

:shadedshu for better temps at higher clocks cuz I know it can clock higher then 3.6GHz but its to hot thats why ppl go to water and e-penis just cuz im going to get water setup

Same as that part above.

You should know that to much heat is bad for anything electronic cuz its life span is shorter with extra heat

If your system has no leaks, and you are using quality tubing (not vinyl tubing), you will not need to add more coolant after the initial bleed and fill. If you use vinyl tubing there is a slight bit of loss, but the Fillport res will hold a lot more than you would need. Besides, if you had it running that long that you would need to fill it some more, it's probably time to tear it down and clean it out anyway.

well my case is not that big, cuz where does that thing supposed to go any ways ?? cuz I have an extra slot for that other Res. Is Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD quality tubing ?

Well, there is a bit of a learning curve to it. Plus there's not harm in doing it right. If you go through and do 50 things, it makes more places to look (and possibly miss) when you have something go wrong. If you start small and get the basics, you can tear it apart in a week and add more if and when you need it.

I know what your saying but I just want to get everything and not have to take it apart then be putting it back together just want to have the cuts I need then hook everything up leak test it and dont have to worry if I should of got that and this and I work 5-6days a week and nights and do like waiting for parts and im lazy just want to get it done and only worry about cleaning and make sure it has enough coolant

but I dont think the SB needs a block maybe just a aftermarket air cooler right ?

 

[t_ski]

:shadedshu for better temps at higher clocks cuz I know it can clock higher then 3.6GHz but its to hot thats why ppl go to water and e-penis just cuz im going to get water setup

No, I wasn't saying you'd be expanding your e-penis just for going to watercooling. From my experience, and from others I have come in contact with, watercooling the NB/SB on most boards will not get you any extra performance/OC over a decent air cooler. Those who watercool their chipsets for the heck of it do it mostly for bragging rights. In that circumstance, bragging rights = bigger e-penis. That's why I suggested you do some research and find out if others with your same board really need it. I know it sounds appealing to go in and do it all in one blow, but until you've fiddled around with running tubing you won't understand how difficult it can be to get it in there IN THE RIGHT WAY. Sure you can slap it in, but you may end up with tubes every which way. You said you're case isn't that big in the first place, and you want to run five blocks, a res, and a pump in there? Unless you have a huge case it can be hard to make it look nice and be able to work in it. I can tell you that it's sometimes very difficult to have the tubing run a proper way to avoid kinks, etc and have the case still workable. Look at my review for the Tyee here and you can see how I ran the tubing for the CPU and the GPU blocks. In order to swap out the CPU or the video card I need to remove both the vid card and the CPU waterblock.

If you have all the tubing and blocks you're suggesting, I think it will be very difficult to manage, especially for a first-time watercooler.

You should know that to much heat is bad for anything electronic cuz its life span is shorter with extra heat

Yep, I know that. I also know that watercooling your CPU can have a great affect on the components around the socket. Since the CPU is so much cooler, the surrounding area and the surrounding components are, too.

well my case is not that big, cuz where does that thing supposed to go any ways ?? cuz I have an extra slot for that other Res. Is Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD quality tubing ?

I personally do not have a res in my setup. The only res I've used is the Swiftech MCRes Micro. I thought it was easier to fill the system initially, but after that I thought it did more to slow down the flow of coolant (restriction) than anything else. The more 90 or 180 degree bends you have, the more restriction you get. Restriction is very bad for an inpingment block like the one I have, so I am commenting on that (I am not familiar with the one you suggested).

If you use a T-line, the tubing itself can act a bit of a reservoir, holding coolant until you need it. And yes, that Tygon should be able to hold in the coolant and prevent the evaporation that comes with generic vinyl stuff. After the initial bleed, you should not need to add coolant unless there is a leak in the system.

I know what your saying but I just want to get everything and not have to take it apart then be putting it back together just want to have the cuts I need then hook everything up leak test it and dont have to worry if I should of got that and this and I work 5-6days a week and nights and do like waiting for parts and im lazy just want to get it done and only worry about cleaning and make sure it has enough coolant

but I dont think the SB needs a block maybe just a aftermarket air cooler right ?

It is against my better judgement to suggest anyone spend well over $100 for parts that will probably do no better than something else they can get for ~$20. Obviously, this is your decision and you are free to do as you choose with your hard earned money. If it were me, I would rather save the $100+ and upgrade the CPU or vid card with it.

Like I said, do the research and find out if it's necessary. If it is, then by all means go for it. If not, save the money for a DX10 upgrade.

 

[Wile E]

Yep, I know that. I also know that watercooling your CPU can have a great affect on the components around the socket. Since the CPU is so much cooler, the surrounding area and the surrounding components are, too.

That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.

 

[malware]

....PrimoChill is what funkflix has but I need to find out if its Dual Pass for sure, cuz the GTS is only Width 133mm/Height 397mm/Thickness 29.60mm and the PrimoChill is Width 135mm/Height 415mm/Thickness 46mm
but for its price its not bad if it has Dual Pass.

Let me explain it to you the easy way.

Dual Pass Radiator:



Single Pass Radiator:



Now you'll easily recognise dual pass radiators from the single ones. PrimoChill is definitely a dual pass radiator.

 

[DOM]

That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.

Thanks, but do you think I should put blocks on the NB and SB ? I think just the NB cuz it does get hot when I up the volts never really checked the SB do. Cuz the NB,SB are like kind of like a GPU right ? If there to hot they get unstable when OCed ???

Let me explain it to you the easy way.

Dual Pass Radiator:



Single Pass Radiator:



Now you'll easily recognise dual pass radiators from the single ones. PrimoChill is definitely a dual pass radiator.

Thanks, Ive learned something new
Im going with my choice in the list cuz its a bigger Rad.

 

[t_ski]

That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.

Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling. I thought everyone else had the saem results. I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:

link

 

[DOM]

Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling. I thought everyone else had the saem results. I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:

link

yeah mine came with one but you seen how the NB has a heatpipe to the Vregs cuz Ive touched the NB base before and its get hot. So why would they run a pipe to the Vregs. And the fan does'nt push that much air the, fan is kind of small

 

[Wile E]

Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling. I thought everyone else had the saem results. I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:

link

If your case has really good airflow, then I can see getting a temp reduction when going water on your cpu.

Thanks, but do you think I should put blocks on the NB and SB ? I think just the NB cuz it does get hot when I up the volts never really checked the SB do. Cuz the NB,SB are like kind of like a GPU right ? If there to hot they get unstable when OCed ???

It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.

 

[DOM]

It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.

Im not trying to get any WR's but to cool the temps down like your saying, and thats what I dont want to happen to get some active coolers then wanting to get the blocks then im going to waste more so im just going to get them fuck it you only live once and like I said money comes and goes if I dont spend it on this its going to be spent on something else

whats PITA?

 

[Wile E]

Pain In The Ass

Upon thinking about it further, I would probably just go ahead and buy the chipset blocks myself. Just for the stability and added component life.

 

[DOM]

Pain In The Ass

Upon thinking about it further, I would probably just go ahead and buy the chipset blocks myself. Just for the stability and added component life.

thats why we work to buy are self things and pay bills cuz my wife wants things too and shes getting something to cuz she lets me buy my things but she wants things that are more expensive just for two purses $1000+ ones 600 something but thats for her B-Day

 

[Wile E]

thats why we work to buy are self things and pay bills cuz my wife wants things too and shes getting something to cuz she lets me buy my things but she wants things that are more expensive just for two purses $1000+ ones 600 something but thats for her B-Day

HOLY SH*T! $600!! Thankfully my wife to be likes computer, electronic, and car related stuff. lol

 

[t_ski]

yeah mine came with one but you seen how the NB has a heatpipe to the Vregs cuz Ive touched the NB base before and its get hot. So why would they run a pipe to the Vregs. And the fan does'nt push that much air the, fan is kind of small

Vregs do get hot, and I have seen boards that either had heatsinks on them or needed to have them on them. The fan in the kit probably works just by adding some airflow. There are those out there that want a totally quiet PC and remove as many fans as possible, and sometimes that can hurt their temps more than they think. There is this buildup of hot air that they can't get rid of because they don't have the airflow there. A small amount is probably all that is needed for your board since the temps aren't extremely bad.

One thing I forgot to add to my post yesterday: If you look around at the shops you can find lots and lots of different blocks, for anything from CPU's to GPU's to chipsets to HDD's, Vreg's and Memory. Just because they have them available doesn't always mean they're totally needed. If you put all these blocks in a loop each one will remove some heat, which will have to go into the loop. That heat will increase the overall water temperature. Since the loop has a higher temp, the rad will not be able to cool the water as much. This means that the vital components, like the CPU and GPU, will have a higher temperature because the temperature delta (change) is not as high. And on a side note, I used to have an Alphacool GPX and a separate Vreg block for my X1800XT. I never put them in because I couldn't figure out a decent way to manage all that extra tubing. There can be an issue with running tubing from a CPU block to a GPU block - if the tubing is too long it makes the side panel hard to get on & it pushes on the card, too short of tubing can cause kinks. I too didn't have enough time to really mess with it and get things right. I still don't. I've got projects in the works that take months to complete because my priorities go elsewhere. I have a quick and dirty OC on my rig that I don't have time to tweak or push farther. And in the past I have spent a whole day devoted just to getting everything put in, and that's just with a CPU and GPU block. Imagine what kind of time I'd need to do five blocks.

It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.

Thanks for the backup Edit: Aw, you went soft on me. NO BEER FOR YOU!!!

And a PITA is a "pain in the @$$"

 

[DOM]

HOLY SH*T! $600!! Thankfully my wife to be likes computer, electronic, and car related stuff. lol

well I gave her my dell but she like cars cuz she wants a BMW but thats after we pay off are truck cuz to put up with me for 7yrs. she got to have some nice things but damn just for a purse :shadedshu girls and there damn love for dumb things but thats what she says about me

@t_ski, lol wheres your back-up now and im not saying the Vregs gets hot the NB does and it has that heatpipe going to them making them hotter due to the NB, and I think they do get warm, but have you seen funkflix comp here if you have'nt http://www.funkflix.de/pcseite/pc.htm thats what im going to do but he got those nice connectors but im sure I can do it

 

[Wile E]

Thanks for the backup Edit: Aw, you went soft on me. NO BEER FOR YOU!!!

Hey, you have to consider the almighty e-penis as well.

 

[t_ski]

Thanks for the link. It helps some to have a visual reference. One thing I think you will run into is the video card block. If you go with the Maze5 GPU block the barbs will point out toward the side panel, and not be as neat of a run as what he has in the pic.

And did you notice the run is from the video card to the northbridge? That's the kind of trouble I was talking about earlier when I said I'd need to remove multiple parts from the system to get access to one component. Something to think about...