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4770k wont boot with IHS removed, works fine when when its back on

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Title sums it up. I managed to delid my 4770k and it works perfectly when i repaste and put IHS back on, but temps are not that good. I tried it without IHS, removed socket retention mechanism. PC wont post. I tried both noctua cooler and H60 with bolts and springs. CPU makes good contact with cooler. The PCB of processor bends easy without IHS, could this be the issue?
 
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works perfectly when i repaste and put IHS back on, but temps are not that good

What are the temps? What paste are you using between the IHS?
 

btarunr

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Without the lid, there's nothing between the LGA support brace and the package. So there's improper contact between the package and the LGA pins. The lid has a pair of support points. Follow tutorial videos on YT on how to install de-lidded processors.

 
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4GHZ 1.136v max temp is about 70c in prime95 smallFFT, paste is mx4. my cpu is really crappy 4.5ghz is pretty impossible
 
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Without the lid, there's nothing between the LGA support brace and the package. So there's improper contact between the package and the LGA pins. The lid has a pair of support points. Follow tutorial videos on YT on how to install de-lidded processors.

Only video i found, the guy just removed retention bracked and installed water block. I did the same.
 
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Don't feel too bad. My 4770K won't run stable below 1.200v in BIOS, CPU-Z reports 1.224v. Runs about 80C~ under F@H.
 
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Don't feel too bad. My 4770K won't run stable below 1.200v in BIOS, CPU-Z reports 1.224v. Runs about 80C~ under F@H.
Those haswells are really bad for desktop, they work great in notebooks...
 
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MSI is using that with new 9 series boards, but I cant find it anywhere else

I wouldn't mount an air cooler to a bare die cpu, it's pretty heavy and could crack your die. H60 shouldn't be so bad, then again as Bta said, you're processor is not making contact with all the pins in your socket, so you need something to spread the pressure of the edge area of the pcb. Most people just use lightweight custom water blocks for bare die delids, not sure if you really want to do that with a H60.
 

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I wouldn't mount an air cooler to a bare die cpu, it's pretty heavy and could crack your die. H60 shouldn't be so bad, then again as Bta said, you're processor is not making contact with all the pins in your socket, so you need something to spread the pressure of the edge area of the pcb. Most people just use lightweight custom water blocks for bare die delids, not sure if you really want to do that with a H60.
THX for the advice. I abandoned custom loop when i got 3770k as it didnt work any better that air cooler. I was just wandering where was the problem.
 
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btarunr

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If anyone is interested I got it working.
The problem was that the cooler wasnt touching the cpu. I had to remove noctua's plastic spacers and replace them with something shorter (about -2mm is needed). I used some rubber washer, m3 nut and metal washers. I also used 4 layers of paper masking tape on each side of die to make support brace, works perfectly. Tepms are better but no game-changer. Max voltage that can be cooled with CM nepton 280l cooler is about 1.45v
 
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If anyone is interested I got it working.
The problem was that the cooler wasnt touching the cpu. I had to remove noctua's plastic spacers and replace them with something shorter (about -2mm is needed). I used some rubber washer, m3 nut and metal washers. I also used 4 layers of paper masking tape on each side of die to make support brace, works perfectly. Tepms are better but no game-changer. Max voltage that can be cooled with CM nepton 280l cooler is about 1.45v
What is your paste method? What paste brand?
 
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What is your paste method? What paste brand?
noctua nt-h1 thin layer spread with card, the die is so small that the cooler presses almost all of the paste outside.
One guy tested this and he even used entire tube in one try and it didn't matter that much - small die and high mounting pressure makes spreading method irrelevant.
 
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i would probably use kapton tape not masking tape if i had to use tape at all.
But you could use some of that thermal double/single sided tape which comes in a multitude of thicknesses. Even though its not going to be used for heat transfer its not going to cause any issues and can better distribute the load by changing its contours to better fit where it needs to be..
 
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Kapton is the way to go! ;)
 
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by thermal tape i mean stuff like this, it comes in all sorts of thikness 0.5mm to like 6mm i think and most sizes in between. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THERMAL-T...mponents_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3ccbf2a804

the benefits i see to using that compared to rigid things like washers taped down with kapton is that you have less of a risk of being slightly to high with one of your spacers leading to poor contact in some areas. or un even pressure on the pins.(because it will be thicker when it needs to be and thinner when it dosent due to being a foam like substance)
What thickness you would need for it to work under compression is something you would need to experiment with though. although 2.5-3mm would seem like a logical thickness.

this would be put on the cpu and would act like the retention for the chip in the socket. and if you placed it properly as a load distributor arround the die. and hopfully mean if your spacers on the heat sink are now to short that the cpu wont suffer as much.
 
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I am disassembling and selling this rig so i can post pictures how I did it.

Noctua uses springs so there is no issue with length of spacers.

There is probablz no need for the masking tape as the cpu die is hard enough, it was just a precaution. As I said, pictures later :)
 
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IMG_3938 copy.jpg
IMG_3932.JPG

With original plastic spacers the cooler was sitting on the mounting bracket
 
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