So am I the only one, who still spreads thermal paste with a credit card?

[TheMailMan78]

I used the "grain of rice" method. Of course I apply thermal paste once every 2 years MAYBE. I personally have never had an issue.

 

[rtwjunkie]

I also put a couple dabs, and then spread with CC method, altho i normally use the flat edge of a small cardboard piece, like the flaps to a medicine bottle box.

 

[Vario]

I once thermal-pasted a videocard and had very good temperatures but unstable when put under load (3dmark11), when I removed the heatsink the paste wasn't consistent because I hadn't used a large enough amount. So it was probably making good contact with one part of the die where the temperature was being monitored but not on other parts.

 

[Liquid Cool]

Back in the days of 939 socket(and before), I used matchbooks or business cards because I liked the flexibility in the material they both offered. IF it's a GPU I still use the same....but with a CPU...any more, I just put a dollop in the center and slap the cpu cooler on. I'm usually to busy to be concerned about doing anything else.

LC

 

[newtekie1]

I pulled off the cooler and notice the corners are not even touched, just a spot in the middle. Then I reapplied it, using the credit card method of old. Even just looking at the CPU before I set the cooler on it, I say to myself. "Now that's how it's supposed to look. Not one drop in the middle, leaving the outer corners of the processor completely dry. Not some X with goops of extra TIM. A perfectly spread out, extremely thin layer, with perfect heat dissipation through all cores.

Getting TIM to the corners is pointless. You just have to cover the center of the metal top because the actual CPU core is only in the center of that. In fact, if you take the IHS off, the TIM underneath is only touching the center too.

See here:

Notice how the TIM is only in the center of the metal plate? So spreading the thermal past to the edge on top of the plate is just wasting TIM. Not to mention it also gives a very high chance of air bubbles.

Of course this greatly depends on the TIM you are using. AS5 for example is very thick, so it spreads very poorly. So you almost have to spread it out with a CC. But then again no one should be using AS5 anymore, there are way better pastes out there...

 

[Solaris17]

Possibly but given enough time with a bad thermal job thermal saturation of the IHS copper can prove difficult too cool if your over clocking.

 

[Bo$$]

Pea method saves time, 1 degree isn't exactly worth remounting several times

 

[newtekie1]

Possibly but given enough time with a bad thermal job thermal saturation of the IHS copper can prove difficult too cool if your over clocking.

That is true, but if your paste job is that bad, you have other issues.

 

[D007]

Some people seem to have not read, what I said about the variance in temps, even after trying several application methods, like a pea sized drop and a small X.
I'm sticking with a credit card. I get better results.
I had a 15 degree variance in temps, not ONE degree.
Now I have a one degree variance with the credit card method.

The TIM I am using is very runny, so air bubbles aren't even a concern.
I press down firmly with the credit card, to get the absolute minimum amount of tim I need.
The idea is to fill in tiny scratches, not visible to the eye.
Not to globbeldy gloop it up.

 

[Solaris17]

Some people seem to have not read, what I said about the variance in temps, even after trying several application methods, like a pea sized drop and a small X.
I'm sticking with a credit card. I get better results.
I had a 15 degree variance in temps, not ONE degree.
Now I have a one degree variance with the credit card method.

The TIM I am using is very runny, so air bubbles aren't even a concern.

maybe your just bad at applying TIM did you read anyone elses post or did you think we were all just going to agree with you?

 

[D007]

Generally speaking, you're doing it right with the CC method. Although, some pastes suggest "tinting" the heatsink first, and then using a pea-sized dot, others say X-method.

I've never herd of "tinting" before..
I'll have to look into that. Thanks.

maybe your just bad at applying TIM did you read anyone elses post or did you think we were all just going to agree with you?

I just don't care when people seem to have a chip on their shoulder, about something as silly as TIM applications.
Not the time or tolerance for it.
If you want to argue with people, get a myspace account.

Its not that big of deal. Just put it on. The CC method is messy. But how could you possibly think is even with a CC?

Because I have eyes with which to see? lol..
I can tell when it's even and when it has no bubbles and I make sure it is ultra thin.

 

[Solaris17]

I've never herd of "tinting" before..
I'll have to look into that. Thanks.



I just don't care when people seem to have a chip on their shoulder, about something as silly as TIM applications.
Not the time or tolerance for it.
If you want to argue with people, get a myspace account.

No one is arguing your original question was

Am I crazy, just bad at applying it using the dot or other methods, or is this just the best way to go?

and everyone was just voicing how they do it. So you could answer your own question. at the end of the day the proper manufacturer specific method is given in both forms in product manuals. You seem to be the only one getting hostile I literally cannot find any evidence of anyone calling anyone out what so ever. Though to be honest im not sure anyone cares about your personal degree of variance because any kind of variance that small not in a controlled environment is up to scrutiny and cannot be trusted or taken as fact.

 

[D007]

maybe your just bad at applying TIM did you read anyone elses post or did you think we were all just going to agree with you?

I think you took my statement personal when it was really only in response to one statement.
This one:

Pea method saves time, 1 degree isn't exactly worth remounting several times

Clearly didn't read the OP..lol
I had 15 degrees, not 1.

Thanks for the insight though.
I have some things to look into about this "tinting" thingamajig now.

 

[Solaris17]

I think you took my statement personal when it was really only in response to one statement.
This one:


Clearly didn't read the OP..lol

Ah That was my fault I didnt understand the context though too be fair personally I wouldnt re mount a bunch for 1C either considering the thermal probes arent even technically specced to be that accurate. IIRC I think most are +/-2ºC

Though 1ºC I suppose is also personal after all I'm not the one remounting right?

 

[D007]

Ah That was my fault I didnt understand the context though too be fair personally I wouldnt re mount a bunch for 1C either considering the thermal probes arent even technically specced to be that accurate. IIRC I think most are +/-2ºC

Though 1ºC I suppose is also personal after all I'm not the one remounting right?

Lol I couldn't agree more. I wish I had a one degree variance.
I'd of been plenty happy with that.
I was pretty wide eyed and flaberghasted when I saw a 15 degree variance, even after trying two different methods.
Then perfection on the credit card method..
Maybe I'm just better using a credit card..
I unno.

I would never remount for one degree though.
That would be kind of lols..

 

[cadaveca]

W1zz turned me on to ArtiClean...that stuff works, and works well. Some thermal pastes have a waxy base that can hamper thermal transfer, but Articlean is good at removing even that hard pink bubble-gum crap, and can restore temps to the way you'd expect on a well-used cooler.

That's a big part, too, proper paste clean-up.

 

[Peter1986C]

^ +10000000000000000000

 

[newtekie1]

Also, if you are getting a 15° difference in cores with ANY method, you're doing it wrong, I guarantee it. You're either using too much paste or too little, using a paste that is too thick, or not using enough mounting pressure.

W1zz turned me on to ArtiClean...that stuff works, and works well. Some thermal pastes have a waxy base that can hamper thermal transfer, but Articlean is good at removing even that hard pink bubble-gum crap, and can restore temps to the way you'd expect on a well-used cooler.

That's a big part, too, proper paste clean-up.

I used ArtiClean for the longest time until I ran out of one of the bottles. Now I use Goof-Off and 99% Isopropyl alcohol. Does just as good of a job for a lot cheaper.

 

[THE_EGG]

Here's some interesting info when spreading IC Diamond.

http://www.innovationcooling.com/application.html

Wow their spread application looks awful. It looks like they have used too much too. That being said they are trying to say one particular method is better than the others I guess they are trying to prove a point.

When I spread mine I use quite a bit of force to flatten the paste. I just tried the spread and also the pea method with some nth1 on my work pc with a noctua u9b se2 cooler and discovered that I had about a 3-4C improvement using the pea method over the spread method. Whereas I've generally seen better temps when using the spread method with AS5 even when using the same Noctua cooler if that matters.

 

[Shambles1980]

i like to make a cross not sure why so many dont
but those stupid direct touch heat pipe coolers i think its better to make 2 parallel lines.

heres a vid on youface.
dosent 100% agree with me but kind of points out stuff

 

[Ebo]

Ive used a lot of different pastes during the last 15 years. To me it seems like the paste determens which method is the best. If you use a thick paste i go for CC type, if more liquied a rice size in middle. Now I use the IC7 Diamond paste, since its the best execpt from the pure metal ones and it dosent react on aluminium which makes it idle to use on a GPU also.
Ive just put new paste on my CPU a few days ago, and i used the rice size in middle and squeezed it out before tighten the cooler, and my CPU shows same temps on all 8 cores from 1-8(29 cencius) which to me shows it has been done the right way.

 

[Guitar]

I use a couple drops usually and spread it around with the tip sometimes. Then usually just put the heatsink on..I guess I rotate it out of habit maybe sometimes.

 

[Lopez0101]

I like using Articlean more than isopropyl alcohol. It usually takes 3-4 drops from each bottle to clean one CPU/GPU. The bottles are going to last a very long time.

 

[micropage7]

I think you took my statement personal when it was really only in response to one statement.
This one:


Clearly didn't read the OP..lol
I had 15 degrees, not 1.

Thanks for the insight though.
I have some things to look into about this "tinting" thingamajig now.

if you have difference about 15 degrees, theres something err
not just about the thermal paste, could be from the contact between the heatsink and the processor

 

[64K]

I use about a pea size blob on the center of the CPU and mount the cooler. I have seen some people say that spreading it with a credit card can cause air pockets between the cooler and the CPU. I don't know from experience though if that is true. I have never tried the credit card method.