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Adding Heatpipes to a Richland Laptop

Kursah

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As an owner of a K55N I don't think that's possible Durvelle...at least with the A8 configuraiton. I haven't seen a report of any K55N's with such an option...
 
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Okay, so the gains are quite impressive(pictures are crummy and pretty blurry, sorry!). I dont know what was happening with the stock heatsink but I was hitting my thermal margins, And the pc would just reboot while gaming. So I decided it was time to finally finish my mod.

Picture 1: The final Product:

  • Had to cut half the fins off the "2nd"/ top heat-pipe (visually to the right of the top most copper heat-pipe)
  • The Artic Silver - Premium Silver Adhesive (ASTA-7G) is a bit messy. But it essentially coats all gaps between the upside down heatpipe and the stock setup. Without any contacting the mirror finish bottom of course.
  • I Also used the Artic Silver to fill gaps between the heatpipes and the fins (I have a feeling this sort of thing is much easier for most laptop users when compared to adding a additional heatpipe.
  • Removed the Top metal "cage" for the fan, I have a 120mm desktop fan that lines up with my laptop fan heatsink, so the more I can improve flow to the fins the better, and in this case it meant removing the highly restrictive top.



Sidenote, If you perform this mod YOU MUST remove any fins that are outside the stock enclosure or else you could expose the motherboard to unsafe temperatures or direct heatsink contact. I will add better pictures of this once I can tare it down again.






Picture 2: Sideview for clearance



Picture 3: Ahhhh fits like a glove

  • cut a large hole (planning to add some wire mesh).
  • Had to grind down some of the "Ribbing" on the interior of the laptop for clearance
  • (not shown) I placed thermal tape below the heat-pipes on the laptop plastic for better thermal protection of the plastic (also all fins are wrapped in heat-sink appropriate thermal tape)



Picture 4: Ugly but functional





Results
Before: Crashing while gaming at ~720mhz gpu
After: *update* Easily attaining 1.2ghz


Conclusion:

This mod is quite a bit of work. But a HUGE improvement for this laptop. Especially with the a10-5750m which seems to run a bit warm. For most laptop users lapping the heatsink and filling gaps between heatpipes and fins is probably much easier and realistic. However pretty cool to be one of the few people out there to pull this off adding a completely new heatpipe :D

I also learned a few tips and tricks about working with heatsinks and heatpipes after all this. So I'll be sure to post them as a follow up.
 
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I would solder it with pipe solder plenty of flux and a propane torch
AS5 is conductive not something you want around the PCB its also very thin and will ozze out and cause a short
 
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its not AS5, its ASTA-7G Artic Silver Premium Silver thermal adhesive (its a 2 part thermal epoxy), it doesnt drip. At all. Its solid as a rock. And conducts insanely well.

Also good luck soldering a heatpipe with a propanetorch, I see this advice everywhere on the internet, yet no one ever does it. I have a feeling the reason why is these heatpipes are ridiculusly fragile, especially the ones for laptops. Its hard enough not to crack them when bending, i can only imagine how sensitive they are to extreme heat like that. I imagine it would collapse within seconds making the heatpipe useless.
 

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its not AS5, its ASTA-7G Artic Silver Premium Silver thermal adhesive (its a 2 part thermal epoxy), it doesnt drip. At all. Its solid as a rock. And conducts insanely well.

Also good luck soldering a heatpipe with a propanetorch, I see this advice everywhere on the internet, yet no one ever does it. I have a feeling the reason why is these heatpipes are ridiculusly fragile, especially the ones for laptops. Its hard enough not to crack them when bending, i can only imagine how sensitive they are to extreme heat like that. I imagine it would collapse within seconds making the heatpipe useless.
I have done it you definitely need to manage the heat properly you also need to use 63/37 solder
its actually not the copper you need to be worried about its the acetone inside acetone auto ignites at about 870F a heatgun with a 375F-400F temp setting is actually what I use ( 63/37 melts at 370F)
 
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Oh wow thats cool! Thanks for the info. I'm sure its certainly the better route (soldering) for the absolute optimum setup. Since I don't have the tools, I figured lapping contact points between the heatsinks + thermal epoxy was my best bet, and seems to have been a success.

I'm starting to think for heatpipe/sink modding is really more about smart design and following the principles rather than solder (SnPb ~ 50W/m-k) vs thermal adhesive/epoxy (7.5 W/m-K ). The numbers don't lie thats for sure, but if 8W/m-k is good enough to give contact from a processor ----> a pressure plate. Than its good enough from pressure plate --> pressure plate for me. I'm sure others maye have different needs/standards though.

Basics (am I missing anything here?)
1) each pipe needs to be soldered to fins(check)
2) each pipe needs to be connected to the stock pressure plate. (check)
3) minimize distances for all contact points, and maximize surface area. (check)
4) Lapping / Polishing contact Surfaces (check)
5) just adding ramsinks randomly wont do much lol.
6) Fill All Voids between pipes and fins you possibly can. (check)

But I've very happy with my gains with thermal epoxy, Since I can max out my chips overclock a better bond wouldn't have done much for me, maybe slightly lower temps, but who knows how many heatpipes I would have killed in the process. lol
 
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if you wanted to go up a level and didn't care about portability you could go full water cooling
heres how
cut the heat pipes off the existing plate
get some 1/8 copper tubing a lay it down in a spiral on the plate solder it all up and then run the tubing to a pump/rad
PROFFIT
 
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good to know but wayyyyy overkill. I definitely need to keep my portability. Once I add the wire mesh to that gaping hole in the bottom, its about as good as back to stock.

I've always thought laptop + water cooling seems sorta silly, the same way that watercooling a game console is sort of silly. Not much extra HP to squeeze out, with added maintenance lol.
 

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Finally someone did it! Tell me about temperature difference. Stock vs Mod, how is it?
 
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It's really difficult in some ways to get consistent temp readings with these chips IMO, because of the "Turbo Feature"

I tend to use this chip in 2 ways.

  • When working I'm typically doing CPU intensive Tasks, Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop (with OpenCL more GPU now though), Many Many Google Chrome Windows, Solidworks, 3D Printing Softwares.
    • I leave Turbo on and the chip maxes itself out at 1.2 Volts and bounces between 3.2 and 3.5 ghz on all cores, with a thermal margin of about 15-20C.
  • When I occasionally Game on PC, I switch Turbo Off. Which Locks all cores to 2.5Ghz, and I can take the GPU up to the hardware max of 1.2Ghz (higher than that doesnt actually change the clockspeed anymore).
Previously when i tried to overclock the gpu even 80-150mhz and all cores locked at 2.5ghz the pc would hit the margins and reboot on me. Now Well 1.2Ghz Rock solid speaks for itself.

Something I do want to try is leaving turbo on and seeing how far I can overclock it stable without the performance significantly dipping on the cpu. But the issue is since its an APU when run turbo mode, and its putting 1.2 volts into the CPU it creates more heat that affects both the gpu/cpu because they are physically IMMEDIATELY next to each other inside the chip. However I feel if I do a few more mods, i might be able to achieve a solid OC + turbo mode without the cpu throttling itself down.

As far as the temps.

Turbo Mode: Idles ~45C load can get up to 55C while maxing: GPu Sort of moves with the CPU temps staying usually 4-5C cooler
Standard No GPU OC: CPU Idles ~42C load can get to ~52C GPU about the same.
Standard + GPU OC: (I'll have to collect some temp readings on this).



Also I Don't know if I'm 100% Done yet.

  • Part of me is considering adding a small heatpipe or copper bracket to better connect the 2 seperate heatsinks on the Fin side of things. To ensure that the second set of fins is really getting good heat transfer both on the pressure plate and the fin side of things.
  • I also want to fill a huge void in the stock heatsink where the heatpipe connects to the fins. I have a feeling by "injecting" the epoxy into that location I may see better heat transfer.
  • Lastly I also want to "seal" the fan enclosure better to make sure the flow is getting sent to the fins. I reused the stock thermal tape in the install, and it was fairly loose fitting.
  • Also it gives me a better opportunity to take good pictures for you all too :D
  • I would be much more comfortable if I can get the chip down into 30's C something you dont often see with these apu's in laptops. But it's definitely the perfect temp range once your in the 30's.
  • I need to add in my wire mesh and clean up the hole cut in the bottom, so it looks like shoddy.
  • I also would like to cut a few slots in the bottom side of the laptop over the cpu pressure plate to possibly get some more breath-ability in that portion of the laptop.
  • adding a copper shim / making a pressure plate for the chipset for better contact to heatpipe
  • adding some foam to the top of the open bottom fan to better seal the airflow into the laptop



some other modding canidates are,


Diagram explaining both:

 
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zac_drake

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Can I ask how did you run your cpu full throttle? Btw, have u ever heard about coollaboratory liquid pro? it's a thermal paste 100% liquid metal alloy and it offers 82 W/(m·K) which is pretty high... the problem is the heatsink that may be a bottleneck of thermal conductivity, not sure if I'm right...
 
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By default the APU runs in Turbo Mode. But can be disabled in AMD Overdrive.

Coolaboratory liquid pro is interesting, althought im not sure how comfortable I am using a liquid metal alloy on an exposed chip like within a laptop. Especially if it takes 48 hours to harden/set. but its something I'll have to consider/do more research on.
 

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CLP (screw typing that every time) is designed to be permanent, not removed and replaced - also it utterly eats aluminium like it was candy, so its not what i'd recommend for use like this.
 
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Lol @ CLP. Thanks Mussels your always awesome as usual!

Also I just looked in my box of heatsink parts, and I have 2 perfectly good k55n heatsinks still, so I'm thinking insted of adding a tiny 4" heatpipe to bind the 2 seperate sets of fins, maybe I can bind the fins and add another heatpipe to the pressure plate. I might just have to sand down the extra / overflow epoxy, but that shouldn't be much work.

So instead of adding 1 heatpipe, I think I may go for adding another. Maybe the first ever laptop to go from 1 --> 3 heatpipes ???? With a proper install.
 
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Might consider doing this on my MSi GT60, but I still need to fix the crummy VRM on the GPU and get a proper BIOS for OCing the CPU.
 
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Heck yeah!

All you need is a dremel, some ebay heatsinks(I suggest ~2 spare stock heatsinks depending on how many pipes your looking to add. And possibly an odd sized heatsink if your planning to add a "layer" fins within the fan area like i did.
But just that the AS permanent thermal epoxy, and a bit of time and planning. Really the worst part is just disassembling the laptop every time to work on it, i think I had to remove something like ~30 screws to get to the heatsink lol.

I really wish I could get some unlocked bios for my k55n to fix my VRAM allocation as well, I have 16gb of ram, and it seems like the default set in the bios is 512mb (and its not adjustable Grrrrrr @ ASUS) and then it seems to overflow to the "shared memory", wheras I've seen with other laptops you can dedicate a slice of up to 2gb in the bios.

Anyone know of any Asus Laptop bios modding pros or services? Also I imagine I need to dump the bios to have them modded properly.
 
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I was going to see if I could just get a few plain heatpipes to screw around with in the workshop at school. Heating, bending, soldering, etc. Then again I might not even bother, as this laptop has me up to the neck already, and just get a desktop.

The nice thing about the GT60 is that it is relatively easy to work on, just pop open the hatch, and you already have full access to the heatsinks.

IDK Seems like a whole big fuss to me, mainly the software side, the laptop comes with the stupidest BIOS I've ever seen, and it's such a pain in the arse to flash. I am just not in the mood to go around fixing other peoples screw ups, I just want to get down to my own business. I might just get one of those EVGA add on VRMs and run the GPU off that , It's insanely annoying how much Vdroop the card has (900mV-25-37.5mV droop under furmark at max clocks). But, in that case I might as well just get a good laptop with an actual BIOS, or just do away with the whole laptop thing like i mentioned before.

Otherwise I guess I can just screw around with desktop parts, making strange cooling systems and the such...
 
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Cool! I can't wait to build a desktop again. Although its a little ways away for me right now, since this thing is doing decent enough in terms of performance to get me by. I'm planning on getting myself another 24-27" monitor, a newer tv since I'm still rocking a 40" 2006 Samsung 720p LCD in my living room, but the Mini ITX box is my third tech acquisition out down the road :D.

I almost feel like the sleek & sexiness of a very small PC, outdoes having a monster tower these days. And I Especially since I use a standing desk. This laptop is great and everything, but I've really started to hit some performance walls working in CAD + Illustrator especially if I'm working on really large files it struggles a bit because the AMD APU's are still a bit weak on the CPU side of things. And I'm thinking I'll probably want to run a core-i5 + Nvidia card to get gpu acceleration for illustrator.
 
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its actually not the copper you need to be worried about its the acetone inside acetone auto ignites at about 870F a heatgun with a 375F-400F temp setting is actually what I use ( 63/37 melts at 370F)

I don't understand how it could ignite; isn't the inside of the pipe an oxygen-free atmosphere? I would think all that can happen is the heat can cause the pressure to build up so much that the pipe would explode. Something you want to avoid of course, but something not related to the autoignition temperature.
 
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System Name Indis the Fair (cursed edition)
Processor 11900k 5.1/4.9 undervolted.
Motherboard MSI Z590 Unify-X
Cooling Heatkiller VI Pro, VPP755 V.3, XSPC TX360 slim radiator, 3xA12x25, 4x Arctic P14 case fans
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 4000 16-19-19 (b-die@3600 14-14-14 1.45v)
Video Card(s) EVGA 2080 Super Hybrid (T30-120 fan)
Storage 970EVO 1TB, 660p 1TB, WD Blue 3D 1TB, Sandisk Ultra 3D 2TB
Display(s) BenQ XL2546K, Dell P2417H
Case FD Define 7
Audio Device(s) DT770 Pro, Topping A50, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, Røde VXLR+, Modmic 5
Power Supply Seasonic 860w Platinum
Mouse Razer Viper Mini, Odin Infinity mousepad
Keyboard GMMK Fullsize v2 (Boba U4Ts)
Software Win10 x64/Win7 x64/Ubuntu
Cool! I can't wait to build a desktop again. Although its a little ways away for me right now, since this thing is doing decent enough in terms of performance to get me by. I'm planning on getting myself another 24-27" monitor, a newer tv since I'm still rocking a 40" 2006 Samsung 720p LCD in my living room, but the Mini ITX box is my third tech acquisition out down the road :D.

I almost feel like the sleek & sexiness of a very small PC, outdoes having a monster tower these days. And I Especially since I use a standing desk. This laptop is great and everything, but I've really started to hit some performance walls working in CAD + Illustrator especially if I'm working on really large files it struggles a bit because the AMD APU's are still a bit weak on the CPU side of things. And I'm thinking I'll probably want to run a core-i5 + Nvidia card to get gpu acceleration for illustrator.
I was thinking a custom water cooled Silverstone RVZ01
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Messages
854 (0.17/day)
A8-4550m to a a10-5750m

I hate to resurrect an old thread but I also have a K55N laptop and I bought a A10-5750M to replace my A8-4500M but it will not work. The laptop powers on and the fan spins up but the laptop will not post, the screen stays black and I get nothing. Did you have any issues upgrading the APU?
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2005
Messages
797 (0.12/day)
System Name Current
Processor Core i5 2500k
Motherboard Z77MA-G45
Cooling Cooler Master Tx3
Memory 8gb DDR3 1600Mhz
Video Card(s) Evga GTX 960 4GB GDDR5
Storage (1) SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB
Display(s) ASUS PB278Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 IPS
Case Fractal Core 1000
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply 430 Watt Corsair
Mouse Logitech g602
Keyboard K70 LUX Mech LB, Red LED, Cherry MX Brown
Software Windows 10 + Hackintosh
No worries at all.

Good news, bad news. Good news is I ran into the same exact issue when I first upgraded with the default bios and I was able to get the a10 apu to work marvelously. The problem is with a particular bios setting, that somehow interrupts the a10 apu from working it's magic. What I had to do to get display to change the bios was the not so much fun task of removing the apu and swap back the original, then adjusting the bios settings. Bad news is I can't remember the exact setting and the laptop is currently disassembled. I want to say it was something like csm, secure boot, or some other setting possibly powerstate related, but I can't recall which exact one. If you are able to swap back and get to bios take some pictures of bios settings and upload them here, I'd be more than happy to assist in any way I can.
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Messages
854 (0.17/day)
No worries at all.

Good news, bad news. Good news is I ran into the same exact issue when I first upgraded with the default bios and I was able to get the a10 apu to work marvelously. The problem is with a particular bios setting, that somehow interrupts the a10 apu from working it's magic. What I had to do to get display to change the bios was the not so much fun task of removing the apu and swap back the original, then adjusting the bios settings. Bad news is I can't remember the exact setting and the laptop is currently disassembled. I want to say it was something like csm, secure boot, or some other setting possibly powerstate related, but I can't recall which exact one. If you are able to swap back and get to bios take some pictures of bios settings and upload them here, I'd be more than happy to assist in any way I can.


That would be great. There's no problem swapping since I already have the A8 put back in. :p The BIOS is very lackluster, I am pretty sure I changed everything already but I'll get some pics up as soon as I can for sure, I would really love to get this A10 working.
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2005
Messages
797 (0.12/day)
System Name Current
Processor Core i5 2500k
Motherboard Z77MA-G45
Cooling Cooler Master Tx3
Memory 8gb DDR3 1600Mhz
Video Card(s) Evga GTX 960 4GB GDDR5
Storage (1) SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB
Display(s) ASUS PB278Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 IPS
Case Fractal Core 1000
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply 430 Watt Corsair
Mouse Logitech g602
Keyboard K70 LUX Mech LB, Red LED, Cherry MX Brown
Software Windows 10 + Hackintosh
I feel like theirs a secure boot option lurking somewhere in there. You may need to disable UEFI because of apu swap , but I'm not seeing any clear bios settings to do so. I may have to break out my laptop and reassemble it to see what I had running.


Whats under "USB Interface Secuirty?", Also Any other sub panels you didnt share? Like anything inside of boot settings on a per drive basis? It looks like you posted all of them but I'm feeling a bit stumped.

Also it may be worth trying to disable "Power Off Energy Saving", may be worth a shot disabling pxe as well via the network stack options. I don't feel like I'm seeing the problematic setting though, those are just some ideas.
 
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