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CPU temps too high?

unclewebb

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Have a good look at your CPU. On the right hand side there is zero contact between your heatsink and CPU. I would pull your CPU out and check it with a straight edge ruler from corner to corner and from side to side. Hold it up to a window and check for daylight. It looks like to me that the heat spreader over top of the CPU cores is not square. You can go and buy another heatsink but that is probably not going to fix the problem if it is the heat spreader. Your CPU looks like it is a good candidate for some lapping to square it up.

BTW, your sensors are fine. When RealTemp shows LOG in the Thermal Status area, that means the CPU has started thermal throttling because it exceeded the maximum safe operating temperature. Prime95 which uses the AVX and AVX 2 instructions is a beast. Everything has to be perfect or your temps will go through the roof.
 

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Darn, unclewebb bet me to posting... oh well, here is mine.

Just adding my 2 cents... those pics sort of look like the cooler was not sitting level on the CPU and you are losing approx. 15% coverage give or take some.
It looks to be raised on the side where the memory is.
You may wanna check that the base and top plates mounted correctly and not resting on anything... same with the cooler/fans.
Does that top plate clear those caps?

Side note: I had a cooler whose pipes rested on the caps one time, making it sit uneven; and, it gave me good idle temps; but, poor (high) temps at max. testing.
 

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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835856002
his heatsink moutingl ooks fine the paste is like that because he twisted it taking it off there is no way its gonna hit anything because the mount plate sits above that
its a thin 140MM cooler made for silent operation not performance
http://www.overclockers.com/thermalright-true-spirit-140-heatsink-review/
op has a chip that runs a little hot and a cooler that`s not quiet up to the task
if price is a issue check the buy/sell/forsale threads here on tpu
 
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Bad paste, bad mount, and slightly undersized heatsink for 1.3volts. Try new paste first, then if that doesn't work, new heatsink. 1.3v is the point where modern Intels start getting really hot.
 
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I would have recommended an NH-U14s.

After seeing how bad the spread is at the lower right of the IHS, I definitely agree that you should check how square the top of the heat spreader is. The other thing that could cause that is insufficient mounting pressure, but seeing how consistent the thickness of the paste is on the left side, I doubt that it is that off center.
 
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Bad paste, bad mount, and slightly undersized heatsink for 1.3volts. Try new paste first, then if that doesn't work, new heatsink. 1.3v is the point where modern Intels start getting really hot.

it's hot as shit even at 1.2V if I run Prime! I'm gonna see if I can send it up to Scan and get money back and look into a better cooler. Anything by Be Quiet or Noctua. If not then I'll just have to live with it and run it at only 4.5ghz
 

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1.296v for the DC chip is waaay to much... I run mine at 1.185 @ 4.6 and even 1.30 for 4.9ghz.

Something isnt right for sure. If you clear the cmos and dont touch anything and load optimized settings and then boot straight into the bios what is the cpu voltage reading beside the auto setting?
 
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1.296v for the DC chip is waaay to much... I run mine at 1.185 @ 4.6 and even 1.30 for 4.9ghz.

Something isnt right for sure. If you clear the cmos and dont touch anything and load optimized settings and then boot straight into the bios what is the cpu voltage reading beside the auto setting?

removed the CMOS battery and hit F5 and the default voltage is 1.2. I've left everything at auto and reduced my voltage to 1.18 :)

edit: it just BSOD'd at 1.184V/stock clocks cos I'm running WCG in the background. It's not as good a chip as yours it seems! lol
 
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high temps under prime are NORMAL even under a H105 water cooler 80C is gonna happen
 
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either way if you wanna take the cooler out of the equation without spending any money throw the stock cooler back on it and see what happens
every benchmark on the spirt 140 tells me its way under powered for the job it gets upwards of ~70C with overclocked i7 950 and those run cooler then your particular chip does ..
 
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Hmmm. I've seen a couple of guys running not so great 4790ks on OCN at 4.6GHz 1.3v with hyper 212 EVOs... I really don't think that 1.2v is particularly high, since many water cooled rigs are running at 1.35+

Guys at OCN have been telling me 22nm runs fine on air at 1.3v and 1.4ish on water... Guess his cooler is not up to the job...

Definitely +1 the XTU suggestion though.
 

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1.2 to 1.3 isn't "extremely high"
I don't think fullinfustion understands that the difference between 1.2v and 1.18v is 0.02v :roll: especially on a "gold" chip such as his
most chips need 1.20-1.30 or more for 4.5 to 4.8Ghz
 
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either way if you wanna take the cooler out of the equation without spending any money throw the stock cooler back on it and see what happens
every benchmark on the spirt 140 tells me its way under powered for the job it gets upwards of ~70C with a stock i7 950 and those run cooler then your particular chip does ..
@El_Mayo holy shit 1.20v is extremely high. Mine is either 1.040 ... I'd swap it if you are still in the exchange window tbh man.

Download that intel XTU program and run the stress test. It'll show you a bar graph if the CPU it throttling and if so how much.

Edit grab it here..
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=24075&lang=eng&wapkw=xtu

Really? I'll find out if my RMA number is still valid and try for a swap haha
Hmmm. I've seen a couple of guys running not so great 4790ks on OCN at 4.6GHz 1.3v with hyper 212 EVOs... I really don't think that 1.2v is particularly high, since many water cooled rigs are running at 1.35+

Guys at OCN have been telling me 22nm runs fine on air at 1.3v and 1.4ish on water... Guess his cooler is not up to the job...

Definitely +1 the XTU suggestion though.

ran it briefly (5 minutes), didn't see any throttling at any point. I've emailed Scan about returning the heatsink and they suggested RMAing the chip first, which I will try to do because tbh this chip couldn't stay stable at 4.6Ghz and 1.3V running WCG. If it can't hack that I don't think it'd pass prime anyway and is a shitty chip. If I get a new chip and it's still as hot then I'll return the heatsink
 

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fullinfusion

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@OneMoar I believe you believe I don't know the difference between the voltages and trust me when I say this, I've been shown and taught from one of the great masters and I could blow smoke up your ass and most wouldn't know the difference. After a reset of the BIOS and load optimized then reboot straight into the bios and read the CPU , aio/dio cache ect voltages will tell you what kind of chip you have. 1.20v is a BAD chip in heat and voltage for just being stock.. The BIOS reads the chip and sets the volts according to the CPU..

I don't have a golden chip, I have a chip that has some degradation and I tell you its not from heat. Its the volts that kill these chips. 1.30v is borderline and 1.32 is the top limit if you want a chip that's going to last for some time. I was running 4.9 @ 1.36- 1.3750 volts and it ran great for a few weeks but sudden bsod's was telling me wohaa I can't handle those volts. I can run 5ghz for a quick cinibench run and pass and hit mid 80's so your saying I don't know voltage difference?

And @ the guy talking about OCN and there voltages, well let's see how many start to die suddenly.. I've seen a number of them in other posts killing them selves and with not much more then 1.35v

I'm not sure what chip your running @OneMoar but I assure you these DC chips are different in power then the 4770k. Just look at the aio and dio voltage difference and how the ring bus on a DC reacts to voltage and how it scales. I've spent many nights testing g and giving my info to Dave to help in his hasswell oc guide part 2 so stay tuned and there's going to be a lot of info that's going to blow your hair back guys n gals ;)
 
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1.2v@4.4GHz is hardly unheard of on haswell... Remember that the 4790ks are hardly better binned than the 4770ks, the only difference is in the IVR and TIM

Those guys were running 1.3v for months on a 4670k since a month or so after the chips were hitting the market. Heck, there are guys running IB chips at 1.35+v with water loops and they are still going fine...
 

fullinfusion

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Your totally missing the point.. The bios reads the chip ok, then the board sets a minimum working voltage. If you ppl read my post about clearing the CMOS and when in the bios where it says exit and save changes there is an option to load optimized settings. Click that and when the board restarts go directly into the bios and read the CPU volts beside auto and that shows the voltage number.. Lower is better ok.. And I had ivy and ran 4.6 24/7 at 1.3750 volts for well over a year. Ivy and hasswell are 2 totally different chips. Ivy has voltages tied to other parts of the chip where hasswell have there voltages totally independent of one n other ;)
 
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Someone's post about your CPU cooler's review was intriguing to me, so I went and read it. I don't like that they have the base of the heatsink warped on purpose. (see pic below)



I would buy another cooler with a dual fan setup. (push/pull airflow is the best) I like the looks of the Cooler-Master Vapor Chamber coolers. (you can add a second fan for push/pull and get the performance you need)

BENT.JPG
Yeah the cooler is doing an okay job, it just can't hack the Prime95 load. It seems. Part of me doesn't mind as my gaming load is tolerable, it's just annoying that I can't fully test stability!

reseated the heatsink just now, here's what it looked like.





wiped it all off an reseated with this amount of paste this time








forgot to answer, yeah I wipe it all of every time
 
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fullinfusion

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Someone's post about your CPU cooler's review was intriguing to me, so I went and read it. I don't like that they have the base of the heatsink warped on purpose. (see pic below)



I would buy another cooler with a dual fan setup. (push/pull airflow is the best) I like the looks of the Cooler-Master Vapor Chamber coolers. (you can add a second fan for push/pull and get the performance you need)

View attachment 59701
Yeah I agree, I lapp alot of my cooling and all the convex does is press the center of the cpu down in the center. What if someone had it to tight, then snap goes the silicon lol.
 
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You would have to tighten the crap out of it to get that much warp out of it.
I have an Enermax ETS T40 around here that was always a great air cooler. It's base is flat, like it should be.
The only reason that I quit using it was to try out an AIO cooler on the i7 system it was in.
 
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Intel agreed to swap the chip so if its still the same then it's just a disappointing cooler! haha
 

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the way i see this thread....

 
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