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Computer will not reboot after being shut down

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I checked the internet to the best of my ability and found a few more with this problem but couldn't find an answer, so here I am. I haven't been here in a while

Here's the problem. It's the system in my specs. I normally use hibernate unless I'm overclocking, and one day it wouldn't wake up from hibernate. when I wiggled the mouse to wake it up the fans started to spin for a half second then quit. then nothing would happen at all even when I pressed power button unless i either switched the PSU off and on or hit the clear CMOS button on back of the board, then when i hit the power button it would boot up fine and resume hibernate. It did that a couple of times in the last months but I didn't worry about it. Then recently I had it powered off for a couple weeks, and when I went to start it, it did the fan spin for a half second thing, and so I hit the clear CMOS button, and hit the power button again and it did the fan thing again but no power up. Took like 15 tries CMOS button, power button etc. before it would boot. It's getting to be rather inconvenient...it wont wake up from sleep, or hibernate or boot up after being shut down unless i clear CMOS button multiple times.

I've tried the things I could think of, taking memory out, graphics out, unplugging unimportant things...unplugging important things...all with the exact same results. fans spins for a half second then goes off again. I'm kindof not sure what to do. It runs perfect once its running, no stability issues whatsoever.

Any help is very much appreciated
 
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How old is this board?

Could it be the CMOS battery?

Do you have settings in bios to wake up on usb?
 
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Do you have an extra PSU laying around that you can try out?

Another possibility could be the CMOS battery, or some conflicting BIOS setting/possible corrupt OS file.
 
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The board isn't terribly old, less than a year I think. I'll try a different battery in it

I'm not sure about wake up on USB settings; it had been working perfect till just recently with nothing changed in bios.

I do have a 600 in another PC I could test out. I hope its not the psu
 
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have you tried to unplug the 24 pins power cable leave it for 10 minutes then re-plug it and test it back
 
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If none of the things we listed fix it, you might want to check for a MB BIOS update, or reseating the CPU. I'd go with reseating the CPU as the absolute last thing to try though.
 

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As strange as this may sound i had very similar issues recently caused by a 7 volt fan adaptor i'd used for years - i added a second fan onto it and it was overloading the 5VSB rail when the PC was sleeping/hibernating, so it would have issues waking up. Never really noticed it until i went win8, which by default was sleeping.


The point of that story which i forgot to actually write, was to do an isolation test. remove things you dont need - extra hard drives, fans, optical drives, disconnect USB ports (unplug your case ports) and so on. see if anything changes.
 
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@micropage7 I have not. I'll do that now
i have experience with shitty board that sometimes it refuses to boot and the only way is pull the 24 power cables and leave it about 10 minutes then it works fine

maybe you could try it
 
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I agree with the general consensus above - most likely a power issue. What exact kind, I cannot rightly say without some testing first.

As has been suggested, you should probably test with another PSU. In addition, look for some short circuit faults - maybe a damaged USB port (some of the pins on the port touching the outer shielding or other pins), solder side of the motherboard touching the case MoBo tray, perhaps some wire bridging some IC pins on the component side, etc. Another possibility would be what @Mussels is suggesting: the PSU acting as a current sink, which it shouldn't be, perhaps some cross-wired fans or undervoltage adapters or maybe fan(s) connected between 5V and 12V outputs (to get 7V effective on the fan), etc.

The clear CMOS button on the back actually disconnects the PSU from the motherboard and the battery from the BIOS chip long enough for it to "forget" stored settings. It's probably this PSU disconnection that enables a successful boot. Most likely a "soft short" is temporarily removed by this. You might wanna try starting up with the bare minimum (one stick of RAM, GPU and nothing else, MoBo out of the case), this'll help troubleshoot any external shorts.
 
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Thanks for all the replies.

I disconnected everything, no change. Updated bios, Still no change; I tried most of the things, tomorrow I'll swap my other PSU in and take the board out and see what there is to see
 

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I know it's a pain in the ass, but if changing PSU's doesn't work, you might want to pull the motherboard and set up all the minimal equipment on cardboard, just to eliminate the possibility of a short with the back of the motherboard tempirarily contacting the back of the case.
 
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Few additional questions: do you have a system speaker connect to the front panel header?

If so : does it give any beep code?
If not: See if you can find one and connect that to check for any beep codes.

I did own that board but forgot about exact details, but does it have a debugg code lcd on the motherboard?

Other option is to use the ROG connect cable plus it in an other system, load the ROG connect plus software and use that to boot, it should give a debug code during pre post.

The beep code and debug code hold valuable clues to the cause.

My first thought (already mentioned) : replace the battery
 
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OP have you made any progress?
 
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@Henkenator68NL It's got a debug led, it wasn't much help tho, it didn't throw any codes.

Well I found the problem. I swapped out the PSU and it's working perfect. Sad day. I also think I found what may have caused it to fail. I had been noticing my case was shocking me so I checked with my meter and it was at 60v AC, which shouldn't be possible. So I checked the ground in the outlet and it read like 80v AC, which is super weird. Idk why it's like that but I just decided to plug the computer into an outlet on the other side of the room that read like it's supposed to. and the case doesn't shock me anymore, lol. I'm wondering if maybe it was straining the PSU or something and wore out a cap, idk. Regardless, now I know what the problem is. No warranty on the PSU tho, got it cheap from a reviewer and then I custom sleeved it; i've had it a year and a half maybe. I guess I'm in the market for a decent PSU now, i'm afraid to game or fold on 600 watts haha.


Thanks guys for all your input
 
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@Henkenator68NL It's got a debug led, it wasn't much help tho, it didn't throw any codes.

Well I found the problem. I swapped out the PSU and it's working perfect. Sad day. I also think I found what may have caused it to fail. I had been noticing my case was shocking me so I checked with my meter and it was at 60v AC, which shouldn't be possible. So I checked the ground in the outlet and it read like 80v AC, which is super weird. Idk why it's like that but I just decided to plug the computer into an outlet on the other side of the room that read like it's supposed to. and the case doesn't shock me anymore, lol. I'm wondering if maybe it was straining the PSU or something and wore out a cap, idk. Regardless, now I know what the problem is. No warranty on the PSU tho, got it cheap from a reviewer and then I custom sleeved it; i've had it a year and a half maybe. I guess I'm in the market for a decent PSU now, i'm afraid to game or fold on 600 watts haha.


Thanks guys for all your input

With that system you should be fine on a 600watt PSU in the meantime.
You should check out the EVGA supernova G2 850watt, it's got a small price tag and really nice.
 
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Ooh that is a good deal. 109 after rebate from the egg.

I also just found this seasonic 850 for same price after rebate plus a $20 coupon; full modular too. I think I might get it.
 
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Ooh that is a good deal. 109 after rebate from the egg.

I also just found this seasonic 850 for same price after rebate plus a $20 coupon; full modular too. I think I might get it.

Looks like a nice deal, I honestly can't give you my opinion on that PSU though since I haven't had the chance to use it.
But from what I've gathered, most of the good PSUs recently are using Seasonic components, so I'd imagine it's a safe bet if you don't go with the EVGA Supernova G2
 
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I went with the EVGA. It matches my GPU; lol
 
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The bad grounding didn't hurt the PSU. I've been seeing quite a few reports of issues with Seasonic's KM³ and XP/XP² platforms (i.e. SS-***XM and SS-***XP, and CM V700, V850 and V1000) regarding "false positive" protections IC trip. Meaning the PSU's housekeeping/protections IC wrongly detected a short where there wasn't one. To this day I haven't figured out what exactly causes the erroneous fault state. You might wanna talk to a Seasonic rep, perhaps their engineers would be interested in taking the unit in for some troubleshooting, with this being far from an isolated incident...

Oh, and the EVGA unit is a fantastic choice, SuperFlower have really outdone themselves with the Leadex platform :)
 
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Thanks, I didn't know that


Edit: I opened up the PSU to see if there was anything obviously wrong, and the wire that goes to pin 20 on the 24 pin connector is not connected to anything inside; iI looked up a pinout and it's supposed to be -5v. I can't find where it use to connect inside tho...how strange.
 
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Ooh that is a good deal. 109 after rebate from the egg.

I also just found this seasonic 850 for same price after rebate plus a $20 coupon; full modular too. I think I might get it.

That is a very fine PSU! Got it hooked up for a year in one of our PC's here. I also got it on a deal, so you can't pass it up if you get another chance!
 
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Ooh that is a good deal. 109 after rebate from the egg.

I also just found this seasonic 850 for same price after rebate plus a $20 coupon; full modular too. I think I might get it.
Beat me to it !!!!
AWESOME ! They had the Corsair HX850 for $90 based on same platform
rt ^^^^ spotted that too !!
 
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Thanks, I didn't know that


Edit: I opened up the PSU to see if there was anything obviously wrong, and the wire that goes to pin 20 on the 24 pin connector is not connected to anything inside; iI looked up a pinout and it's supposed to be -5v. I can't find where it use to connect inside tho...how strange.

:twitch:
 
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