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Motherboard shutting down shortly after power up

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I am finding it difficult to visualize just how vigorously you would have to rub your chip before damage would occur if you left it in its' socket which after all is designed to grip it tight
Honestly, I can't visualize it either. But I've witnessed pins losing contact with lands through no purposeful manipulation at all. I can only hypothesize that this was due to the case being jarred hard enough to cause the weight of HSF to apply enough force to cause it. So about that vigorously, I presume.

IOW, not a guess. Based on real world experience. As usual.:toast:
 

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in my real world experience something very heavy fell on this when it was attached to the cpu. The cpu and mobo still worked



documented here
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/ghetto-mods.55387/page-74
 
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I advise against removing the CPU to clean or to re-TIM!

Once properly seated and clamped in, it would take considerable force to move it around and bend anything. The heatsink clamping mechanism puts a lot more force on the CPU than you need to carefully clean it. Most old TIM will come off with a cotton swap dabbed on 91-93% isopropyl alcohol and careful rubbing. It may take a few minutes but if you are in that big of a hurry, you need to go away and come back when you can take the necessary time.

Any hard to remove residue will come clean with careful scraping with your fingernail, then finish again with the cotton swap.

There is a MUCH GREATER RISK of damaging the CPU through mishandling, dropping, or most likely ESD if you remove it from its socket, where the contacts are now exposed and the CPU is no longer grounded to the chassis.

With it firmly clamped in its socket, the CPU is grounded to the chassis and once you touch bare metal of the case, you are then "at the same potential" as the CPU and no destructive electro-static discharge can occur.

With it firmly clamped in its socket, CPU and socket pins and conductor pads are not exposed to damage or excess TIM or skin oils. Plus you have both your hands free to deal with the TIM.

@MrGenius - if you witness this damage through such excessive force then I contend those are the exceptions to the rule and exceptions don't make the rule.

So I say leave the CPU clamped in place where it is grounded and the socket and CPU contacts are protected. Then carefully clean it there where cannot fall out of your hands and bounce off the floor, or get zapped by static in your body.
 
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I was just advising another poster on another forum who is moving to remove the heatsink assembly before transporting, unless he can be certain the PC can lay on its side so the motherboard is horizontal with the CPU (and monster HSF assembly) sitting on top. Shipping a computer in the tower position with a monster HSF like that (or even the OEM coolers) can really put undue stress on the socket and create micro-fractures in the motherboard. Not good. In some case, the HSF assembly can even break loose then bang around inside the case the rest of the trip. Really not good.
 
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All good counter points. I have no really strong arguments against them. I might even change my method if I ever end of up killing anything with an ESD. But frankly, that's not something I've ever taken precautions against(much less witnessed first hand). I consider the odds of it happening on par with getting struck by lightning. Which does happen. So I can't rule it out(and I'm not ignorant enough to deny the science behind it). However, I can't imagine doing a thorough enough job of TIM removal without removing the CPU from the socket first. Not as easily at least. And factoring in that during removal it can easily get pushed around into places that it would be otherwise impossible to remove from without opening the socket(and/or removing the CPU), I'd just as soon not have that possibly happen to begin with. And, actually, if I'm the one working on it, I'm not concerned in the slightest about the pins being disturbed/damaged. But I'm not you, or him/her, or whomever. So I don't know how gently/carefully anyone else is capable of doing it. I tend to stick to the "assume the best, expect the worst" philosophy.

Man, here we go again. My apologies to the OP. We needn't discuss such conjectural matters in your thread. For all we know they are of no relevance whatsoever to it. And I'm pretty sure I started it this time. My bad. :ohwell:
 

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View attachment 66214

CLRTC is the CMOS clear jumper on your ASUS X99 mobo. Turn off the PC, move the plastic jumper to the right one pin, then move it back into its original position and try turning the PC on again.

If you don't have any luck then, textbook hardware troubleshooting enters the scene.

Leave only the power supply cables to the mobo & video card, the video card itself, CPU/CPU cooler and RAM plugged in. Try to power it on.
If no life, re-seat the power supply cables and try again. Make sure the plastic clips are clipped on all the way.
If no life, re-seat the RAM and try again. Make sure the mounting tabs are clipped in all the way.
If no life, re-seat the CPU and cooler and try again.

If still no life, things start to get a little more troublesome. My bet would be on either the motherboard or power supply at that point.
No, there should be a push button reset button for the BIOS. You want to reset the CMOS not the real time clock.
clearcmos.PNG


Start here, then we can continue. Otherwise everything is speculation.
 

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I'm wondering, before going into all the suggestions in here, all of which are good and valid, if the OP ever removed the motherboard from the case and tried to start it up on cardboard as @Bill_Bright suggested earlier? This would help eliminate a short between the case and the back of the board as a culprit.
 
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A) Breadboard it (That's been mentioned)
B) 1st thing I would do it loosen all the block-mounting nuts until they're barely loose then barely snug each one down in a crosshatch pattern.
C) Pop your RAM out then in again,making sure it snaps in.
 
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No, there should be a push button reset button for the BIOS. You want to reset the CMOS not the real time clock.
View attachment 66225

Start here, then we can continue. Otherwise everything is speculation.
CLRTC is clr cmos.

The bottom buttons are for power-on and power-reset. ;)

Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver. :)
 
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CLRTC is clr cmos.

The bottom buttons are for power-on and power-reset. ;)

Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver. :)

Yes indeed! I looked up the OP's specific motherboard manual and inserted the motherboard graphic directly from it, so the CLRTC jumper is the one he should be looking for. No BIOS reset button on that model. :<
 

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CLRTC is clr cmos.

The bottom buttons are for power-on and power-reset. ;)

Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver. :)
No, I stand corrected. I thought the OP had a X99-Deluxe not a X99-A. The X99-a doesn't have a button, just the jumper. The deluxe has a button much like my P9X79 deluxe. Simple mistake.

Either way, the OP still should clear his CMOS. :)

Clearly, this guy (me) is ready for a long weekend.
 
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Defective powet button, conductive thermal paste, loose connectors. If loose connector just insert tiny screwdriver in connector to push back the pins in timy squares.
 
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I cleared the CMOS, got the motherboard out of the case , and it still does shutdown. However when not plugging in the 12v cable it stays powered on. I tried with and without the ram, graphics card and every other component. Can we for sure say that the problem comes from the PSU ?
 
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But frankly, that's not something I've ever taken precautions against(much less witnessed first hand). I consider the odds of it happening on par with getting struck by lightning.
That's actually the problem. ESD can result in a static discharge that can easily torch a Grand Canyon sized gorge (microscopically speaking) through 1000s of transistor gates in an ESD sensitive device (high-density ICs like a CPU, GPU, memory modules) without us humans even being aware a discharge occurred! That is, an ESD can be massively destructive, yet still be so tiny, we humans can neither see, hear, or feel the "spark". All we know is suddenly the CPU or RAM no longer works.

The fact of the matter is, more CPUs are RMA'ed due to ESD (lack of precautions by the user!) than any other reason. :(

If you do not take necessary ESD precautions, the odds are MUCH GREATER than getting hit by lightning! :(
 
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the 12v cable
8-pin EPS? I just want to make sure we all understand what you're describing.


So the 24-pin ATX connector is plugged in but the 8-pin EPS is not. The 8-pin EPS connector is strictly for CPU power which I would imagine would narrow it down to CPU or PSU.
 
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8-pin EPS? I just want to make sure we all understand what you're describing.


So the 24-pin ATX connector is plugged in but the 8-pin EPS is not. The 8-pin EPS connector is strictly for CPU power which I would imagine would narrow it down to CPU or PSU.

Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.
 

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Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.

If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.
 

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Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.
CPU initialization is failing. You said that you didn't remove the CPU when you redid the TIM? Try reseating the CPU and make sure not to over-tighten the cooler.
If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.
Aren't they keyed differently or is it just a second EPS connector for boards like those dual CPU EVGA boards from years ago?
 

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Aren't they keyed differently or is it just a second EPS connector for boards like those dual CPU EVGA boards from years ago?

They should be keyed the same (99.99% sure)- the 8pin EPS will even fit in a 4pin ATX12V socket as long as there is room for the connector to overhang the socket on the board...
 
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If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.
As I previously stated, I tried both, in vain...
CPU initialization is failing. You said that you didn't remove the CPU when you redid the TIM? Try reseating the CPU and make sure not to over-tighten the cooler.
I will try it and see what happens.
 
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Ok so I removed the CPU and put it back, but it still didn't boot. No pins were bent. I'm getting seriously worried. Could the cleaning with articlean possibly hurt something ?
 
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You know, this might be a long shot, but are you sure you're not getting these two mixed up? I've seen it happen before...... and by a coworker in my IT department, at that.

It could be triggering the short circuit protection.





Edit: Also you may want to check the CPU socket closely for bent pins (this may have been suggested already). I use my cell phone as a flashlight. One pin is all it takes.
 
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You know, this might be a long shot, but are you sure you're not getting these two mixed up? I've seen it happen before...... and by a coworker in my IT department, at that.

It could be triggering the short circuit protection.





Edit: Also you may want to check the CPU socket closely for bent pins (this may have been suggested already). I use my cell phone as a flashlight. One pin is all it takes.
Not a chance , PCI-E connectors are blue. I actually used my flashlight to check for bent pins.
I will post pictures of the cpu and the motherboard so you will see if I am missing something.
 
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Not a chance , PCI-E connectors are blue. I actually used my flashlight to check for bent pins.
I will post pictures of the cpu and the motherboard so you will see if I am missing something.

:clap: We love pix.
 
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