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Is my 5820K this crappy or am I missing something?

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Don't wish to speak too soon but I bumped the RAM down to 2133 and I've had no crashes yet. Exited a few games (which caused crashes pretty consistently) and have restart a couple times, etc. Nothing that's caused freezing before is doing it now. Too soon to tell but that might be the issue.

Oh, running the system at 4.4GHz as well.
 
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Well I spoke too soon. Restarted after typing that just to see and the PC restarted about half a second into the Windows loading screen.

What's weird though is that upon restarting I didn't stop it and it loaded into Windows fine...and did it faster than I've seen it get into Windows so far. I was only at the fully formed logo for like 2 seconds maybe?

So yeah...weird. I really don't know at this point what the problem could be.
 
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I didn't see you mention anywhere that you've tried using the PC without overclocking the CPU.

Why not run it at stock clocks to establish a stable baseline first? It seems like you may have jumped to a high OC too quickly. Take your time and think it out. Baby steps.
 
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disable loadline calibration... or put it to the max, adjust voltages accordingly (with it disabled, you might have to raise your settings)
 
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I didn't see you mention anywhere that you've tried using the PC without overclocking the CPU.

Why not run it at stock clocks to establish a stable baseline first? It seems like you may have jumped to a high OC too quickly. Take your time and think it out. Baby steps.

Also suspecting RAM or PSU now. Just a while ago my system froze on shutting down and that was with everything at defaults/stocks expect the RAM which was running XMP.

Got you covered!
 
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disable loadline calibration... or put it to the max, adjust voltages accordingly (with it disabled, you might have to raise your settings)

I've already tried it both ways...no go.

As said previously though I'm having the same issues at stock clocks...so it's certainly not overclock related. I don't believe at this point.
 

Aquinus

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When I turn on my PC it sits doing nothing other than being on for about 4-5 seconds...then keyboard lights up then immediately after the RAID setup pops up then BIOS screen then to Windows
You just described how my machine boots every time. RSTe waits for all the drives to spin up before the entire OPROM is loaded and it can sometimes take 4-8 seconds for RSTe to detect all my drives. Sometimes it takes 1 second. Once the bootloader is hit, the machine is at login screen within 10 seconds but I'm also booting off SSDs.

Are you booting off that RAID-0 or the SSD?
 
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You just described how my machine boots every time. RSTe waits for all the drives to spin up before the entire OPROM is loaded and it can sometimes take 4-8 seconds for RSTe to detect all my drives. Sometimes it takes 1 second. Once the bootloader is hit, the machine is at login screen within 10 seconds but I'm also booting off SSDs.

Are you booting off that RAID-0 or the SSD?

Booting off a Vertex 4 128GB. Have dual 500GB hard drives in RAID 0.
 

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disable loadline calibration... or put it to the max, adjust voltages accordingly (with it disabled, you might have to raise your settings)
Do you know what LLC does? If you did, you wouldn't make a recommendation like that as LLC helps keep you from killing your CPU at higher voltages. Maybe a description of what it is and what it does is in order:
LinusTechTips said:
Background on LLC:

For those of you who don't really know what LLC is: LLC was a featured added to motherboards several generations ago to combat vdroop. Vdroop is a drop in voltage supplied to the CPU as load increases; basically when you go from idle to load, the voltage would decrease. Given the small voltage tolerance that overclockers are working with (increased voltage is proportional to the CPU frequency/multiplier that an overclock can achieve), a droop in voltage applied to CPU can make a theoretically stable overclock unstable (dropping the voltage below that required to achieve the set frequency). LLC applies additional voltage to the CPU to combat vdroop so that when switching to load, there is sufficient voltage to keep that frequency stable. So LLC is great and you want to turn it on? Yes, but...

For most modern motherboards, there are different levels of LLC that you can set in your bios. At certain levels of LLC (these may be different for each motherboard), the LLC can overcompensate for this vdroop, and actually apply vboost. Vboost is when the voltage actually supplied to the CPU is above the value that you set in your bios. This can be a nice way of ensuring that your overclock will be stable, but you have to be careful, because each CPU has a death voltage (the voltage where, if applied to your CPU, it will likely die). If you are toeing the line near your CPU's death voltage to try to squeeze every last MHz out of your overclock, LLC can bring your actual voltage above this level, which is a great way of killing your CPU (or making it degrade much faster). So although LLC is great for overclockers, it should be used with care, because you may just end up killing your CPU.
Source
Booting off a Vertex 4 128GB. Have dual 500GB hard drives in RAID 0.
Hmmm. Is the SSD on the RAID controller or is it on its own controller? It's entirely possible that TRIM commands aren't getting to the SSD and write performance has gone to crap. How's the SMART attributes look on the SSD and is the SSD close to full?
 
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So it would appear that something is majorly wrong here. I can't even get the system to boot any longer. It now either freezes at the Asrock boot screen (after the RAID screen) or restarts during Windows loading within a few seconds. This is at stock speeds, RAM running as low as DDR4-800, BIOS defaults, etc.

Going to try and reseat the CPU but I doubt that's the issue.
 

qubit

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So it would appear that something is majorly wrong here. I can't even get the system to boot any longer. It now either freezes at the Asrock boot screen (after the RAID screen) or restarts during Windows loading within a few seconds. This is at stock speeds, RAM running as low as DDR4-800, BIOS defaults, etc.

Going to try and reseat the CPU but I doubt that's the issue.
I've just seen your thread and immediately thought "bad mobo". Reading your OP and the first handful of posts and the last few, especially your last one only confirmed this to me.

Also, as your PSU is old and bought second hand, it's possible that it's faulty. Even a 1KW PSU won't power your system properly if there's something wrong with it and you can see some weird shit very similar to this if it's bad, especially when it's intermittent. I have a handy PSU tester made by Thermaltake bought for the princely sum of £23.99 a few years ago and recommend that you get something similar.

It could be the CPU, GPU, PSU or the RAM perhaps, but it's much more likely to be that mobo, so I recommend getting a new one and seeing if it cures your problem. Make sure that you buy it online so that you can try it first and return it easily for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem. Amazon tend to be my retailer of choice due to their superb customer service and no quibble refund policy.

However, only do this after getting the PSU tester (also from Amazon!) and checking your PSU with it. Don't worry about using that gadget "only once" either, as it's useful in a surprising number of situations.
 
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I've just seen your thread and immediately thought "bad mobo". Reading your OP and the first handful of posts and the last few, especially your last one only confirmed this to me.

Also, as your PSU is old and bought second hand, it's possible that it's faulty. Even a 1KW PSU won't power your system properly if there's something wrong with it and you can see some weird shit very similar to this if it's bad, especially when it's intermittent. I have a handy PSU tester made by Thermaltake bought for the princely sum of £23.99 a few years ago and recommend that you get something similar.

It could be the CPU, GPU, PSU or the RAM perhaps, but it's much more likely to be that mobo, so I recommend getting a new one and seeing if it cures your problem. Make sure that you buy it online so that you can try it first and return it easily for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem. Amazon tend to be my retailer of choice due to their superb customer service and no quibble refund policy.

However, only do this after getting the PSU tester (also from Amazon!) and checking your PSU with it. Don't worry about using that gadget "only once" either, as it's useful in a surprising number of situations.

I think you might be right. When it wasn't booting right now I forgot to mention that I changed the boot SSD to a S_SATA port in order to run it AHCI to see if that would help with boot speed. When I switched it back to it's original port Windows booted again.

HOWEVER...that still doesn't explain, in my mind, why the BIOS screen froze 50% of the time just now. I mean, if it was 100% Windows crashing I could understand because of the port switch (which I read multiple places shouldn't matter?) but it wasn't Windows crashing 100% of the time...

So yeah...this sucks...I just simply don't have the money for this haha! I'm tapped out! Guess I'll just stick to stock speeds, hope my PC boots up after I shut it down, and just deal with it freezing here and there.
 

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That's a shame that you can't try a PSU tester and mobo, as that's really needed to get to the bottom of this. :ohwell: Can anyone loan you the money, perhaps?

Is your mobo still under warranty? If so and you can live without your PC for a while, then perhaps try an RMA?

You can also try a bit of underclocking and see if that helps. If it makes no difference, you could try reducing the voltages a bit, as that would take some pressure off possibly faulty mobo power regulation components.
 
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That's a shame that you can't try a PSU tester and mobo, as that's really needed to get to the bottom of this. :ohwell: Can anyone loan you the money, perhaps?

Is your mobo still under warranty? If so and you can live without your PC for a while, then perhaps try an RMA?

You can also try a bit of underclocking and see if that helps. If it makes no difference, you could try reducing the voltages a bit, as that would take some pressure off possibly faulty mobo power regulation components.

Yeah I can go without for a little while. I bought it used and through PayPal so I can probably just get my money back. We'll see what happens.
 

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I am going to tonight before starting the process of motherboard return. Meant too last night but spent the night elsewhere.
 

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Yeah I can go without for a little while. I bought it used and through PayPal so I can probably just get my money back. We'll see what happens.
Ah, that explains a lot.

I am going to tonight before starting the process of motherboard return. Meant too last night but spent the night elsewhere.
It doesn't hurt to try it, but note that memtest is hardly definitive when interpreting its results. The takeaway message is that if it picks up errors then you have bad hardware, but if it doesn't then you may still have bad hardware as it can't pick up everything.

I know, because this happened to me with some new memory sticks I bought some time ago for one of my old Athlon 64 systems. I bought 1GB DDR2 x4 but when all 4 sticks were plugged in, Windows would freeze solid from anywhere between 30 seconds to 5 minutes, at random. Maddening. I tried different combinations of sticks and they all worked - except all 4 together. The PC worked fine in the BIOS too and memtest gave it a clean bill of health, even when run overnight. I tried a different installation of Windows on a different HDD and that did the same thing.

I eventually got it to run stable by setting "weak drive" in the BIOS memory settings, but that didn't last. I gave up in the end as the fault could have been in the mobo or the memory sticks so I just went back to my old memory sticks (2GB).

I recently tried those 4 sticks in a vintage system belonging to a friend of mine as he wanted to upgrade it and lo and behold, this time one of the sticks definitively showed up as bad since the PC wouldn't even post - no beep, nothing, just fans spinning, even when plugged into a different slot and on its own. Remove it and all was fine.

If I could have had a definitive result like this back then, I would have returned the faulty stick for a refund. Alas, it's been years now and hence too late.

Treat memtest "good" results with skepticism!
 

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Ah, that explains a lot.


It doesn't hurt to try it, but note that memtest is hardly definitive when interpreting its results. The takeaway message is that if it picks up errors then you have bad hardware, but if it doesn't then you may still have bad hardware as it can't pick up everything.

I know, because this happened to me with some new memory sticks I bought some time ago for one of my old Athlon 64 systems. I bought 1GB DDR2 x4 but when all 4 sticks were plugged in, Windows would freeze solid from anywhere between 30 seconds to 5 minutes, at random. Maddening. I tried different combinations of sticks and they all worked - except all 4 together. The PC worked fine in the BIOS too and memtest gave it a clean bill of health, even when run overnight. I tried a different installation of Windows on a different HDD and that did the same thing.

I eventually got it to run stable by setting "weak drive" in the BIOS memory settings, but that didn't last. I gave up in the end as the fault could have been in the mobo or the memory sticks so I just went back to my old memory sticks (2GB).

I recently tried those 4 sticks in a vintage system belonging to a friend of mine as he wanted to upgrade it and lo and behold, this time one of the sticks definitively showed up as bad since the PC wouldn't even post - no beep, nothing, just fans spinning, even when plugged into a different slot and on its own. Remove it and all was fine.

If I could have had a definitive result like this back then, I would have returned the faulty stick for a refund. Alas, it's been years now and hence too late.

Treat memtest "good" results with skepticism!

Not really memtest is great at detecting errors with memory. TIs common knowledge that fully populated channels stress the NB and or memory controller more which is probably why your 2x2gb worked fine. In that case I am certain it was a motherboard issue. But thats exactly what memtest will do just that. If the memory passes fine the error is elsewhere.
 

qubit

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Not really memtest is great at detecting errors with memory. TIs common knowledge that fully populated channels stress the NB and or memory controller more which is probably why your 2x2gb worked fine. In that case I am certain it was a motherboard issue. But thats exactly what memtest will do just that. If the memory passes fine the error is elsewhere.
No, because I confirmed the bad memory in another mobo, which gave me that verify. Until then I couldn't be sure.

I initially had 4x512MB in there not 2x2GB that you assumed, so that is perhaps what confused you?

And yes, I know about populating all slots putting more physical stress on the memory controller, bu that's not the issue here. I should also stress that there was no overclocking involved.
 
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