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Compatible waterblock for the mosfets on a MSI X99S Gaming 9?

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Anyone know of a compatible waterblock that would cool the mosfets and vrms on a MSI Gaming 9 X99s ACK?
I could only find one single block but the board has two heatsinks connected by alloy pipping. Thanks
 
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sneekypeet

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I found that myself earlier and when I go into their configurator they have no blocks for the second smaller mosfet block on the left of the motherboard:



This is the factory heatsink removed. Cant figure out if the smaller piece even makes contact with the board!

 

sneekypeet

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TBH that block that covers the left side of your motherboard looks like it is set way too high to even make contact with anything over there. Looks like it was built more for show than go in that instance. In other words, its a fake block by what I can see....wait for others opinions, but with clearing the Caps there, what is left to touch the motherboard?
 

cadaveca

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it does not contact anything as suggested. There aren't any CPU power parts there...it's merely so that the heatpipe has a colder end all the time, aiding the heat transfer. Even the DIMM VRM is lower, directly under the socket.
 
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So its for show? I thought so after examining my board I could see light under it. Wonder if it could be modded if I add a water block such that I still have a little bling there.. Even better too bad a fan cant be hooked up to it.
Looks over function is the msi way I guess.

Thanks
 

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Basically it covers up the ugly under it, and with that heat pipe connecting it, if the main block gets too warm, it should be able to offload said heat to the second block. With water cooling it won't need a secondary system to cool them.
 

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you do not need to water-cool the mosfets on that board
12X45A is a hell of a lot of power

far more then you could ever pump though the board or cpu (540A theoretical output) tho I would expect to start popping traces if you got anywhere near that
 
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you do not need to water-cool the mosfets on that board
12X45A is a hell of a lot of power

far more then you could ever pump though the board or cpu (540A theoretical output) tho I would expect to start popping traces if you got anywhere near that


I'm sorry I don't understand.. I don't need to water cool the mosfets? How is that? Please explain.

Thanks
 

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I'm sorry I don't understand.. I don't need to water cool the mosfets? How is that? Please explain.

Thanks
because they don't need it
why do you want to watercool them ?
unless you are managing to overheat them (which I highly doubt)
the stock cooler is more then sufficient,more cooling will not get you anything
the power-phase on the board is rated to 125C
the regs are FDMF5823DC there is 8 of them and the tech sheet for them is here
https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/FD/FDMF5823DC.pdf
 
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sneekypeet

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Please explain.

Let me try to help...
The Fets need cooled in some form, air or water.
They do not need the capabilities of water cooling to stay cool enough to function is what @OneMoar was on about originally.
Now if you want to water cool them, that is fine and feel free to do so!

because they don't need it
why do you want to watercool them ?
unless you are managing to overheat them (which I highly doubt)
the stock cooler is more then sufficient,more cooling will not get you anything
the power-phase on the board is rated to 125C
the regs are FDMF5823DC there is 12 of them and the techsheet for them is here
https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/FD/FDMF5823DC.pdf
Needs and wants are usually two different things when it comes to PCs. He never asked if he needed it, he says he wants to find blocks for it. ;)
 
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Well I read on other forums that it's a good idea to cool them if you want the best stable overclock you can get. Now if it won't make one difference in the slightest then I'll take your advice and pass on the extra expense and risk. Will be cooling a 5820k as high as possible.

Thanks.

Side note auto spell check turned cool into cook! Lol.
 

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Well I read on other forums that it's a good idea to cool them if you want the best stable overclock you can get. Now if it won't make one difference in the slightest then I'll take your advice and pass on the extra expense and risk. Will be cooling a 5820k as high as possible.

Thanks.

Side note auto spell check turned cool into cook! Lol.
it won't make the slightest difference not even 0.01%
most 5820k's are lucky if they hit 4.5Ghz with all cores enabled
 

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it won't make the slightest difference not even 0.01%
most 5820k's are lucky if they hit 4.5Ghz with all cores enabled

Damn, consider both of mine lucky then, retail from Amazon too :D Technically one is a 5930.
 
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That's not exactly true. Mosfets usually run pretty hot and as they get hotter, their capacity of current output starts dropping. The higher the heat, the less amps they'll be able to output, meaning you'll lose stability or overclock capacity/range.

For most users, passive cooled mosfets are fine. Some of us have them actively cooled by a fan. Some prefer them water cooled.

You can read a bit of useful info about mosfets here:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/low-quality-mosfets-on-sabertooth-x99.215799/

I didn't understand them well before, but now I understand them quite well.
 
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Also was just wondering since the x99s msi gaming 9 ack has a "7+2" phase vrm (not sure what that means) does it mean it won't overclock as well a 12 phase vrm?
Have a feeling I got suckered into marketing propaganda from MSI. Maybe I should sell the board on ebay and get a better one?

Thanks
 

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Also was just wondering since the x99s msi gaming 9 ack has a "7+2" phase vrm (not sure what that means) does it mean it won't overclock as well a 12 phase vrm?
Have a feeling I got suckered into marketing propaganda from MSI. Maybe I should sell the board on ebay and get a better one?

Thanks
it doesn't matter
you seem to be getting your hopes up
you need to todo some more research before jumping in headfirst expectations high...
we call it the silicon lottery for a reason there is a very good chance then your chip won't do anything beyond 4.5Ghz without stupid levels of voltage
also the number of phases doesn't mean anything its about the quality of components more then anything
 
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My last major build was a 920 D0 overclocked from 2.66 to 3.8 ghz on an EVGA Classified. So I must have one the lottery eight years ago. Right now the 5820k isn't on water yet. Got it attached to a Zalman cnps9900 cooler for the time being. How can I verify this is a good overclocker too? Not like they come with asic scores like gpus..

Thanks
 

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My last major build was a 920 D0 overclocked from 2.66 to 3.8 ghz on an EVGA Classified. So I must have one the lottery eight years ago. Right now the 5820k isn't on water yet. Got it attached to a Zalman cnps9900 cooler for the time being. How can I verify this is a good overclocker too? Not like they come with asic scores like gpus..

Thanks
see if it it will boot at 4.6Ghz @ 1.25v
if i won't boot at that try 4.5 @ 1.20
if It won't boot at 4.5 @ 1.20 then I would say the chip is fairly avg and 4.6 to 4.7 is going to be the upper-limit even under water generally you should keep them under 1.30v tho you have some flex with that if the temps are low
 
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Was able to boot at 4.5 @ 1.25. Afraid to take it any higher on air. Not even going to try to Stress test it until water.

Thanks
 

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Was able to boot at 4.5 @ 1.25. Afraid to take it any higher on air. Not even going to try to Stress test it until water.

Thanks
it can't be that warm the cps9000 is fairly decent don't be afraid to run it right up to 80-90c
sounds like the chip is fairly avg then so 4.6 @ 1.35v is likely to be the top end
 
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it can't be that warm the cps9000 is fairly decent don't be afraid to run it right up to 80-90c
sounds like the chip is fairly avg then so 4.6 @ 1.35v is likely to be the top end

The board is very perculiar in that running it at a 45 or 46 multiplier or any multiplier for that matter, I couldn't turn off EIST. It kept on re-enabling itself on reboot. I wish I took a screen pic because I know 4.5ghz happened but I couldn't verify 4.6ghz and not sure it even happened at all becuase cpu-z didn't say it did though the multiplier was set to 46 in Bios for sure. I'm guessing some throttling occured maybe built in the bios. Was an exciting experiment. On air at 4.5 ghz I think is pretty cool. Didn't dare stress test it though but the fact I did it on air so easy I think when I get my water loop setup it will go higher.

Thanks.
 
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it can't be that warm the cps9000 is fairly decent don't be afraid to run it right up to 80-90c
sounds like the chip is fairly avg then so 4.6 @ 1.35v is likely to be the top end

At stock like 3.6 + turbo my max temps were no more than 70 degrees while Priming. Not going to risk it in the 80's till winter. Thanks
 
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