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-   -   Thinking of getting this . (http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97949)

trickson Jun 27, 2009 08:53 PM

Thinking of getting this .
 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...=g30c105#blank

I was thinking of getting this for my system what do you think ?
Will my PSU handle this ? 700W RocketFish .
Is this going to sweat all over the mobo ? Is there a way to prevent this ?
Is it going to take the temps down ? I hit a high of 74c running OCCTPT3.10 line pack ( With current system settings !

What is your take on it ? Price is not the issue here just want your opinion on the things I listed thank you ...

1Kurgan1 Jun 27, 2009 09:07 PM

Interesting, wonder how well that TEC cools over normal WC. Can't be of any help though, I'm not really sure how much power a TEC pulls. But I would think it shouldn't have a problem, your not running dual videocards, you should be fine. But I could be wrong.

trickson Jun 27, 2009 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Kurgan1 (Post 1450789)
Interesting, wonder how well that TEC cools over normal WC. Can't be of any help though, I'm not really sure how much power a TEC pulls. But I would think it shouldn't have a problem, your not running dual videocards, you should be fine. But I could be wrong.

Cool thank you ..

phanbuey Jun 27, 2009 09:12 PM

" If you increase your voltage too much, particularly with "hot" processors like the X6800 or the QX6700 you risk overshooting the TEC limit and getting worse temps than you would with straight water." -from the manual...

ALSO - Requires: 1000+ Watt PSU or 320+ Watt Auxiliary PSU, so I would say that no, your 700W rocketfish will not be happy with that on the 12V line. What is you amperage rating - that thing can (and will) suck down 24A of power.

So erm... its not worth it... What block are you currently using? - there are other ways to optimize an LC loop.

trickson Jun 27, 2009 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phanbuey (Post 1450796)
" If you increase your voltage too much, particularly with "hot" processors like the X6800 or the QX6700 you risk overshooting the TEC limit and getting worse temps than you would with straight water." -from the manual...

ALSO - Requires: 1000+ Watt PSU or 320+ Watt Auxiliary PSU, so I would say that no, your 700W rocketfish will not be happy with that on the 12V line.

So erm... its not worth it... What block are you currently using?

I have a back up 500 w PSU so I guess I can put that in . I have a Dteck fusion 2 but it has been dented on the bottom and I want to get a new one .
I have a Q9650 so I really doubt I will over shoot it like the Q6XX would they are 65nm were as mine is a 45nm .

phanbuey Jun 27, 2009 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickson (Post 1450803)
I have a back up 500 w PSU so I guess I can put that in . I have a Dteck fusion 2 but it has been dented on the bottom and I want to get a new one .

Post a pic of your setup - maybe we can drop your temps for free.

trickson Jun 27, 2009 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phanbuey (Post 1450806)
Post a pic of your setup - maybe we can drop your temps for free.

Look at it there is a link in my sig . But I doubt you can get it lower with fans and the such as I have every fan in the world on this thing LOL !

phanbuey Jun 27, 2009 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickson (Post 1450809)
Look at it there is a link in my sig . But I doubt you can get it lower with fans and the such as I have every fan in the world on this thing LOL !

OK see it now... but anyways here are some ways to drop temps:

1: Have you lapped the processor? No point in getting TEC if you haven't - this is an easy and free 5C drop.

2: Airflow is good - but how hot is the air hitting the rad? If its at the back then you're "cooling" your setup with hot air from the case...

3. Touch the rad - is it hot when you run OCCT? if not then you may have a flowrate issue.

ARE THERE DUST FILTERS ON YOUR RAD!?!?! take those off asap :toast:

http://img22.imageshack.us/i/dsci0004f.jpg/

trickson Jun 27, 2009 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phanbuey (Post 1450812)
OK see it now... but anyways here are some ways to drop temps:

1: Have you lapped the processor? No point in getting TEC if you haven't - this is an easy and free 5C drop.

2: Airflow is good - but how hot is the air hitting the rad? If its at the back then you're "cooling" your setup with hot air from the case...

3. Touch the rad - is it hot when you run OCCT? if not then you may have a flowrate issue.

ARE THERE DUST FILTERS ON YOUR RAD!?!?! take those off asap :toast:

NO I will not take the dust collectors off this home is very dusty and it help's cut down on all the dust that collects on the RAD . If I didn't have them this thing would need to be cleaned every week as it is I can go 1-2 months with out a good rad cleaning .
My CPU is lapped yes .
I don't fell any thing getting too warm as for flow rate it should be more than fine .

phanbuey Jun 27, 2009 09:45 PM

Maybe this will help you
http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi...mcw6500t/3.htm

trickson Jun 27, 2009 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phanbuey (Post 1450846)

HMM seems like a ton of work and a lot of grease ! Isn't there an easy way ?

phanbuey Jun 27, 2009 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickson (Post 1450851)
HMM seems like a ton of work and a lot of grease ! Isn't there an easy way ?

Not if you go the TEC route... You need to do all that stuff or your system

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowIm...wer%20radiator

KH0UJ Jun 27, 2009 09:58 PM

I think its an awesome waterblock bro, waterblock and an active cooling directly on the heatsource:cool: I say if money is not a problem you should get it, dont worry about the 24 A rating, it can only reach 24 amp if supply it 15.2 volts;), A TT drive bay PSU should handle that, if you feel like you`re PSU cant handle

Binge Jun 27, 2009 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickson (Post 1450776)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...=g30c105#blank

I was thinking of getting this for my system what do you think ?
Will my PSU handle this ? 700W RocketFish .
Is this going to sweat all over the mobo ? Is there a way to prevent this ?
Is it going to take the temps down ? I hit a high of 74c running OCCTPT3.10 line pack ( With current system settings !

What is your take on it ? Price is not the issue here just want your opinion on the things I listed thank you ...

You need a separate PSU to control the pelt. It is NOT worth it. I think you might start a fire without doing more research. Ask Wile_E about it if you're still into this idea.

I take it nobody in this thread has done Pelt cooling before...

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:05 PM

Have a ultra chilltech CPU cooler and it was fine it never went below room temps . I would like more information on just how to do this yes .
phanbuey That is kind of an old setup and I do not know if all that is really necessary on the newer setups . But again I am looking at it and find this very interesting indeed .
I want to get really low temps and this is the only viable way to do so I think .

KH0UJ Jun 27, 2009 10:05 PM

correct me if im wrong but take a look at the supply connector on the main picture, I think they design it to run on a +5V power, so if that`s the case, no need to insulate something since it cannot reach -temperatures, I think you`re PSU can handle it, it only serve as a form of mini heat pump to accelerate the heat transfer from the CPU surface to the rushing water, very cool Idea with a price



yes im wrong:banghead: im looking at the female connector and the red wire, its a 12 V supply

KH0UJ Jun 27, 2009 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Binge (Post 1450859)
You need a separate PSU to control the pelt. It is NOT worth it. I think you might start a fire without doing more research. Ask Wile_E about it if you're still into this idea.

I take it nobody in this thread has done Pelt cooling before...

I personally tried it bro, but with a +12 volt supply, it can function on a 5 volt but not really that fast to cool with a +12 volt supply, so I think their design is built without a temp controller, cause its only a back-up mini heatpump:)

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KH0UJ (Post 1450863)
correct me if im wrong but take a look at the supply connector on the main picture, I think they design it to run on a +5V power, so if that`s the case, no need to insulate something since it cannot reach -temperatures, I think you`re PSU can handle it, it only serve as a form of mini heat pump to accelerate the heat transfer from the CPU surface to the rushing water, very cool Idea with a price

I am not sure the spec say this .
U Max: 15.2 VDC
I Max: 24 A
DT Max: > 67°C
Q Max: 226.1 W
R: 0.48 Ω
Dimensions: 50 x 50 x 3.1 mm
(L x W x H)
Requires: 1000+ Watt PSU or 320+ Watt Auxiliary PSU
The PSU I have may not be enough that is fine I have a second PSU no problem there .
But what about the rest ? I mean it don't look like it will cause all that much condensation at all .

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KH0UJ (Post 1450869)
I personally tried it bro, but with a +12 volt supply, it can function on a 5 volt but not really that fast to cool with a +12 volt supply, so I think their design is built without a temp controller, cause its only a back-up mini heatpump:)

So you had one ? Did you have any problems with condensation ? and how well did it cool your CPU ?

Binge Jun 27, 2009 10:17 PM

You should still insulate the CPU area. I just want you, sir, to know that pelt cooling dumps a HUGE heat load into your water loop and you need a water cooling setup that would go above and beyond your normal heat load in dissapation. Aside from the power issues... the Pelt (if overloaded) on the hot side will become an insulator and your chip will burn up if the pelt has too much heat that can't be taken away on the hot side.

My bit about the separate PSU... you don't really NEED it but it's a personal preference. You have to be ready at all times when you're running the pelt to unplug everything to prevent a fire or melting. It's become pretty common knowledge that pelts are not the best way to cool something actively. They require a lot of power, and it's hard to keep your system from overloading a pelt over a long period of load. Bottom line, they are not for 24/7 use.

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Binge (Post 1450878)
You should still insulate the PSU area. I just want you, sir to know that pelt cooling dumps a HUGE heat load into your water loop and you need a water cooling setup that would go above and beyond your normal heat load in dissapation. Aside from the power issues... the Pelt (if overloaded) on the hot side will become an insulator and your chip will burn up if the pelt has too much heat that can't be taken away on the hot side.

My bit about the separate PSU... you don't really NEED it but it's a personal preference. You have to be ready at all times when you're running the pelt to unplug everything to prevent a fire or melting. It's become pretty common knowledge that pelts are not the best way to cool something actively. They require a lot of power, and it's hard to keep your system from overloading a pelt over a long period of load. Bottom line, they are not for 24/7 use.

Well my computer is never on 24/7 any way .

So take a look if you will at my water cooling setup ( Link in sig ) and please tell me if you think this will be enough to keep it cool if you would please .

Binge Jun 27, 2009 10:20 PM

What kind of funky Custom WC loop are you using that lets your CPU get to 74C under OCCT?

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Binge (Post 1450881)
What kind of funky Custom WC loop are you using that lets your CPU get to 74C under OCCT?

It is not the CPU per-say it is the CPU CORE that gets this hot . the CPU never gets above 40c .

KH0UJ Jun 27, 2009 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickson (Post 1450874)
So you had one ? Did you have any problems with condensation ? and how well did it cool your CPU ?

on a P4 2 GHZ set-up on idle it can drop the temps to 5 C on my thermocouple sensor, on load it hovers between 15- 22 C still enough for the moisture in the air to condensate on the sides of it though,

trickson Jun 27, 2009 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KH0UJ (Post 1450887)
on a P4 2 GHZ set-up on idle it can drop the temps to 5 C on my thermocouple sensor, on load it hovers between 15- 22 C still enough for the moisture in the air to condensate on the sides of it though,

So just how did you keep the condensation for being a big problem ?


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