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Old Sep 14, 2012, 10:54 PM   #239
stren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Widjaja View Post
Monster looking rig will be keeping an eye on this.

Wonder if there will be any room left to cool some beers as well.
Haha I'll need a few when I'm done, or maybe before.... like now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by de.das.dude View Post
http://i.imgur.com/Q1uGth.jpg

i do this too i figured this out the last time i was sleeving and putting on LEDs in my case
plus this way there is no need to insulate the joint
Yes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by popswala View Post
This thing is coming along nicely. Any updates coming?
Actually right now


Another update - big one too!

So this is where we were last time - gaming rig trying to get up and working in a temporary state. Main loop not yet connected:



To finish the main loop we needed to connect the EK400 reservoir with the custom 1" NPT tap to the Iwaki RD-30 pump. First we need to build a T section for the drain port:



These are standard schedule 40 pieces of PVC that I'm gluing together. I took a T junction and two 1/2" NPT reducers as well as a piece of 1" grey electrical conduit for making the 90 degree turn:



This is all based on amuseme's idea except that I'm using 1" pipe instead of 0.75" and I connect to the pump slightly differently. So now we have to connect to the pump:



So we take a 5/8" brass barb from your local hardware store and tape it up with teflon tape:



1/2" tube can be warmed up and stretched over the barb. The idea is that the barb lines up right next to the 5/8" input to the Iwaki giving less restriction to the input feed of the RD30 unlike regular 1/2" tube would. I also added a 2nd barb for the drain tube. This reservoir coupled with the 1" pipe means there is a lot of water that needs draining easily:



Both barbs in:



Now let's hook up the pump:



Add some worm clamps so that nothing flies free when you turn the pump up to 29V:



Now let's add the drain tube, the tube color is temporary for now:



Add the drain port:



Add a worm clamp and we're done for now:



Now it's time to put it in the case. As the reservoir was temporarily mounted we need to fix it first. There's a convenient metal plate in the case that you can unscrew and drill holes in:



Now let's reinstall that in the case:



And done:



The reservoir is fed by two drain ports. When feeding a larger amount of water it's useful to have one for water coming in and another for air coming out:



Now here's the Iwaki Plus feed tube situated in the base. The cardboard box will be replaced with anti-vibration gel soon enough:



Here you see the gap between the Iwaki feeding tube and the tapped base of the EK reservoir:



I cut a piece of schedule 40 tube to size to glue in here:



Later I will paint all of the tubes so it doesn't look so bad The cardboard box doesn't quite raise the Iwaki high enough so we'll need to swap that out:



But here it is fully connected:



And here's the whole side of the gaming case in it's temporary state:



Now we can add the 360 radiator back in quickly (30 seconds) due to the Koolance quick disconnect fittings and the CaseLabs side mount design:



I can't fit a 480 in because of the placement of the radiator and the feed tube. I may move it later, but for now this works. So it's time to fill up with water:

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