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Maximum Overclocker
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WC Inventory
Just wondering what the standard inventory for a typical WC setup is... as far as I know:
resivoir pump radiator tubing waterblock clamps for the tubing to fit on the waterblock am I missing anything? |
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#2 |
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Unpaid Babysitter
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barbs
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#3 |
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fans
coolant or distilled water
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#4 |
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Maximum Overclocker
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#5 |
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seriously?
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#6 |
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They are also known as fittings.
Coolant is not needed. Use distilled water.
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#7 | |
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Quote:
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#8 |
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The Mad Moderator
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I know some will say it's not really needed, and to just use a capful of alcohol. However, A little $5 bottle of PT nuke has lasted me like a year and a half. Here's another little item that is not a total necessity, but I like using it instead of using a paper clip to start the PSU for leak testing.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/atx_p...s-adapter.html
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#9 | |
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The Watchful Moderator
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Or compression fittings~
Quote:
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#10 | |
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That would be very dangerous for your acrylic. Not to mention dangerous on weak orings... and such. I heard of using a tea spoon of iodine, but alcohol? Can u show me who told you this so i can have a good debate on why alcohol? My opinions on silver... its the best for the long run. Why? its a set and forget component that works better as the coolant ages. And your coolant gets filled with nasties as it ages, so it works in time relation to each other. There is no dosing required, no question of did i put in too much or too little. There is no age factor unless your silver disolved completely, which means ur playing with concentrated acid and not water. I do highly recomend a type of antimicrob at the very least. Trust me algae getting stuck in your blocks and radiator, is a painful cleanup. |
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#11 |
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The Mad Moderator
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I've heard several people through the years say they use alcohol without problems. Actually, I may have heard erocker say he's used alcohol, but don't quote me on that, as I'm not 100% sure. I've only used distilled water with PT nuke.
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#12 |
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most vendors will nul your warrenty the moment you use alcohol :P
Alcohol is considered an abrasive coolant. |
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#13 | |
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The Mad Moderator
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Quote:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=359133
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#14 |
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Not at the levels he is taling about. With distilled water that amount of alcohol is pretty much harmless. Also damage is done with alcohol when the fluid is at a stand still, not much it can do in a constant moving state. I have also seen people use a very small amount of antifreeze for wc cooling. I would be more worried with antifreeze over a small amount of alcohol.
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#15 | |
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The Mad Moderator
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Quote:
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"I have found the Iron to be my greatest friend. It never freaks out on me, never runs. Friends may come and go. But two hundred pounds is always two hundred pounds." -Henry Rollins My heatware Save lives by joining the TPU WCG team! |
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#16 |
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Buy at least two silver fittings/barbs and be sure to place one on the "send" and one on the "return" to the reservoir. Silver is inhospitable to life in your loop. For an extra measure you could add one drop of Petra's PT Nuke. If you have any acrylic in your loop, don't use any alcohol, or else you will get cracks in the acrylic.
Silver Barb for 1/2" ID tubing: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1trsi1fi.htm If you want to use the least amount of parts possible, I'd recommend a Swiftech radiator/reservoir combo like this: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl1.html To eliminate (yes, completely eliminate) the need for hose clamps/worm drives, use 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" ID barbs. Simply heat up a cup of distilled water in the microwave for about 2 minutes, then dip about half an inch of the end of the tubing that you want to connect to the barb into the hot water for about 20 seconds. It will loosen the tubing up enough to slide onto the barb easily. The seal will be watertight and you won't need clamps. If you have plastic barbs, it will be slightly harder to slide the heated tubing onto. |
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#17 |
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very informative keep it coming, im thinking getting WC myself
![]() Edit: really digging the silver fitting idea
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#18 |
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Silver is better than alcohol.
You don't need a res, you can also use a T line. |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
![]() The bottom left corner is true silver. The top left corner is silver shining. You can see the true silver is lighter, and thats because its real silver and not chrome/nickle. I also use a 1oz Silver Ingot in an EK Res b4 my pal iandh made kill coils. This idea works great as well: ![]() And this is the traditional Kill Coil. ![]() I love silver.. thank god for silver! ![]() omg gillbot got bored and joined TPU! LOL.... |
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#20 |
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woot
![]() ![]() ![]() Edit: lol can i drop a silver ring in my reserv? hehe im being stupid right now
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#21 | |
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Quote:
![]() The point in silver is water contact over flow! You want the flow over silver because the silver leeches into the water. The Ag+ ions is what causes havok with microbs in ATB synthesis, and prevents them from growing. This is why i said silver works better as the coolant ages, because more ions are present in the water as it ages. |
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#22 |
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I know I remember someone else saying this, but if you plan on draining/filling/reordering your loop often then you shouldn't even bother with Silver as it takes a while for the ions to leech into the water and have a presence worthy of fighting of growth.
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#23 |
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well my WC gonna be crunching 24/7 for months, i think ill be okay
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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