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Old Jan 30, 2012, 11:34 PM   #19401
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Originally Posted by douglatins View Post
Yep 120 usd fittins (t line, fill port, valve, drain line, angle, rotary and barbs)
200 pump + res (is that koolance acetal thingy, bummer i got rev 1.3 and 2.0 just released, i almost dup bought)
100 rad
60 block
30 tubes
100 shipping (yep, check location)
100 fans
misc things $xx
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Damn dude, shipping killed you man.
I knew there had to be m04r to it! I feel for my south american brother's, they have been killing you guy's with shipping/import taxxes fee's for year's!

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Just lost an R2E but I got a good friend that owns the local HW-shop so ... you get the rest.(BTW it was his phase and insulation job)

Hobbies is good to have but I don't have time for so many these days, to much work, so I'm left with PC's, soccer and my family(got a grandson 2 yrs old soon to be, man I'm old)

If you can I it's a good thing to do and doesn't cost that much either, you'll be amazed how much $50 a month is over there.
Lucky you have a friend in that posistion and the mistake was his! Still suck's but could alway's be worse. Without hobbies i think i would be more crazy lol Help's to keep my mind clear & calm (for the most part) I've been semi retired for the last 5yrs (not by choice) no wife, no kid's (that i know of), no grand kid's. 1 niece (6mths) and 1 nephew (8yrs) only. Don't really have many responsibilities other than cost of living. I would donate but i think they steal too much money from the charities, i would rather go there and help them. People been sending aid to Africa for more than 30yrs and not much has changed, so sad really. Beautifull country, good people, bad situation (corrupt government's). Just think up until mid '90's they still had the Apartheid in south africa and civil war is constant. The world is messed up, we're all brother's & sister's.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 01:51 AM   #19402
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I know the shipping is expensive but still is loads cheaper than any offering here, and since no one i know sells it, he who does would stab me excessively.
I get better service in the US and all around i prefer so send money there.
So that shipping is not that bad at all. Also i divided in 2 packages.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 02:26 AM   #19403
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Now back on topic, here's another of my PC's

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4696/img0587sa.jpg

And a SB setup in a good old Lian Li Cube case, very clean I think.

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/619/img0585sk.jpg
Nice and clean!
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 07:05 AM   #19404
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I'll take some more when I get my GPU

I just took the corsair ram back out and sent to newegg for a refund. Rocking the Samsung 30NM DDR3 @ 2200Mhz w/1.5v @ 9-10-10-28. Will fine tune later on for tighter timings xD

http://img.techpowerup.org/120129/IMAG0249.jpg
those ram modules match beautifully with the rest of you mobo!
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 11:24 AM   #19405
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E8400 @ 4GHz , Gigabyte HD 6850 GPU core@923MHz , Memory@1150MHz .

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/2640027

I Would liked to see P4k, but it is already better then the stock P3250 ..

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Old Feb 1, 2012, 01:57 AM   #19406
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Originally Posted by boomstik360 View Post
I'll take some more when I get my GPU

I just took the corsair ram back out and sent to newegg for a refund. Rocking the Samsung 30NM DDR3 @ 2200Mhz w/1.5v @ 9-10-10-28. Will fine tune later on for tighter timings xD

http://img.techpowerup.org/120129/IMAG0249.jpg

That looks like the P8Z68 I just bought for my new rig
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:30 AM   #19407
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Originally Posted by boomstik360 View Post
I'll take some more when I get my GPU

I just took the corsair ram back out and sent to newegg for a refund. Rocking the Samsung 30NM DDR3 @ 2200Mhz w/1.5v @ 9-10-10-28. Will fine tune later on for tighter timings xD

http://img.techpowerup.org/120129/IMAG0249.jpg
Welcome back with a boom (no pun intended)!
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:37 AM   #19408
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:37 AM   #19409
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Gotta love open setups
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:39 AM   #19410
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Gotta love open setups
I really should just buy a bench...maybe some other time lol
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:41 AM   #19411
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I really should just buy a bench...maybe some other time lol
Lots of cheap open cases out there man, they do the job and so easy to swap components.
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:57 AM   #19412
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Lots of cheap open cases out there man, they do the job and so easy to swap components.
Suggestions? or links? Might just build a bench.
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 04:04 AM   #19413
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Like this:

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=66317
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 02:31 PM   #19414
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That is nice t-ski
@MGF, I have one of these, effective and cheap.

http://www.highspeedpc.com/
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 03:04 PM   #19415
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Picked up this little guy yesterday. Switched cases and blew both my ssd and my 640 WD black.



New SSD with 3 core controller does make me happy though.

Now if hdd prices can drop a bit I can afford to replace my 640 WD black.
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 03:07 PM   #19416
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Picked up this little guy yesterday. Switched cases and blew both my ssd and my 640 WD black.

http://img.techpowerup.org/120201/IMAG0336.jpg

New SSD with 3 core controller does make me happy though.

Now if hdd prices can drop a bit I can afford to replace my 640 WD black.
What did you do to make them blow?
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 03:26 PM   #19417
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That is nice t_ski
@MGF, I have one of these, effective and cheap.

http://www.highspeedpc.com/
That's actually what I used to get my measurements, then made mine. Of course, I customised it do I could add a rad and pump off to the side.
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 03:36 PM   #19418
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I did notice it was slightly similar. Now I know why. . I have a loop on mine too.
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Old Feb 1, 2012, 03:42 PM   #19419
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What did you do to make them blow?
I looked at the SSD connection, and the sata power connector had broken just on the lip that bends down. I think I may have hooked up my power supply connector backwards to the drives.

They are unrecognizable with any sata port and even in an enclousoure. The WD doesn't even click, spin, or get hot. It just sits there telling me what a failure of a human being I am.

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Old Feb 2, 2012, 02:17 AM   #19420
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I looked at the SSD connection, and the sata power connector had broken just on the lip that bends down. I think I may have hooked up my power supply connector backwards to the drives.

They are unrecognizable with any sata port and even in an enclousoure. The WD doesn't even click, spin, or get hot. It just sits there telling me what a failure of a human being I am.

http://mizpuddle.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/marvin.jpg
oh...bad luck man =.=
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 04:58 AM   #19421
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I looked at the SSD connection, and the sata power connector had broken just on the lip that bends down. I think I may have hooked up my power supply connector backwards to the drives.

They are unrecognizable with any sata port and even in an enclousoure. The WD doesn't even click, spin, or get hot. It just sits there telling me what a failure of a human being I am.

http://mizpuddle.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/marvin.jpg
you may have blown a small safety fuse on the circuit board. they can look almost like a Surface mount cap or resistor. early nintendo ds's had 3 on the main boards and if you hooked up powers wronge or battery backwords these would blow really easy. LOL i used to buy the dead ones and fix them and than resell them. best way look around the power connector
1
Turn on the multi-meter and set it to "x1" ohms. This is the lowest resistance rating, and is used to make sure that an electrical component has a continuous connection.

2
Attach the red and black alligator clips to the fuse. Attach the red clip to one end of the SMD fuse, while you attach the black clip to the opposite end. Alternatively, if you do not want to remove the SMD fuse from the circuit board, you can use pin leads and touch the red and black leads to opposite ends of the fuse.

3
Check for continuity. If your fuse is working correctly, the needle in your analog multi-meter will show a reading. If you have a digital multi-meter, you will see the numbers increase. If there is no change in the reading, the SMD fuse is bad and will need to be replaced.
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 05:01 AM   #19422
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Think you can spend quite a lot of $$ on WC-parts it all depends on how much you want to do with it.

It's not a pretty setup but I can run run it with both CPU's @ 4,8GHz with the radds and the chiller and it cost way more than $800.
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/4267/019iy.jpg
Rollercoaster of pc tubing right there.
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 05:54 AM   #19423
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Originally Posted by angelhunter View Post
you may have blown a small safety fuse on the circuit board. they can look almost like a Surface mount cap or resistor. early nintendo ds's had 3 on the main boards and if you hooked up powers wronge or battery backwords these would blow really easy. LOL i used to buy the dead ones and fix them and than resell them. best way look around the power connector
1
Turn on the multi-meter and set it to "x1" ohms. This is the lowest resistance rating, and is used to make sure that an electrical component has a continuous connection.

2
Attach the red and black alligator clips to the fuse. Attach the red clip to one end of the SMD fuse, while you attach the black clip to the opposite end. Alternatively, if you do not want to remove the SMD fuse from the circuit board, you can use pin leads and touch the red and black leads to opposite ends of the fuse.

3
Check for continuity. If your fuse is working correctly, the needle in your analog multi-meter will show a reading. If you have a digital multi-meter, you will see the numbers increase. If there is no change in the reading, the SMD fuse is bad and will need to be replaced.
All multimeters I know have a "beep"-mode for checking continuity
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 05:32 PM   #19424
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All multimeters I know have a "beep"-mode for checking continuity
but if your working with a really bad hangover its better to watch a display than to listen to an annoying beep!
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 07:55 PM   #19425
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but if your working with a really bad hangover its better to watch a display than to listen to an annoying beep!
I tend to stay away from small electrics when I'm hung over
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