In need of help diagnosing no boot AMD

[TheMailMan78]

This thread needs BIGGER FONTS

Other then that I would try eidairaman1 advice.

[Serg]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

Ya i did most of that in 2007, Cap and Rotor is the only issue I have with it, i tend to burn them up in a year it seems thanks to trash in the air,

If you dont end up getting something different, next time you tune the cap and rotor up, put silicone rtv around the seal, that will ensure no dust or water will get in. Since silicone is a non conductive material, it will work ideally!

[Serg]

Originally Posted by themailman78

this thread needs bigger fonts

other then that i would try eidairaman1 advice.

i completely agree, the hell with the small font!

Yup i definitely took everyone's advice here, eidaraiman has helped much!

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by Serg

If you dont end up getting something different, next time you tune the cap and rotor up, put silicone rtv around the seal, that will ensure no dust or water will get in. Since silicone is a non conductive material, it will work ideally!

The reason they are like that and have no seal is so the heat can escape because an arch causes heat buildup. I dont believe performance distributor caps dont have a seal either.

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by Serg

Hello guys,

I've come to the forum because I was researching my problem and this forum has came up numerous times in the past and now. So I figured the hell with it, I should register and maybe one of you has a solution or some insight on my problem.

Specs:
970 ASRock Extreme 3
AMD FX 64 Quad 4.2
12Gb DDR3 Kingston RAM
Ati HD 4870
Seasonic SS-500 (500 Watt)
Win 7 Premium Pro (Extreme Edition)

Problem:

Well the specs you see above are my new rig. I upgraded from a stock Acer Aspire mobo and from a AMD Phenom X4 64 2.3. Reason for upgrade was because when I tried turning on my computer it was just stuck in a long BEEP, which means PSU fail, CPU fail or MEM fail or a system short somewhere. Well, I checked my PSU and frankly, it checked out fine. Reseated my RAM and cleaned out the whole case and still no go. I wasnt sure on how to check the CPU so I went ahead and just upgraded.

I ordered from newegg and upon receiving the package I quickly began to install. Everything went smooth, new mobo, new cpu, new mem, what could be better? After everything was set, I ran into a problem; My computer WILL power on, however, upon start I do not get a POST beep, my display is black and my USB ports are dead, although if I remove one of the USB connections, like keyboard or mouse, they will turn on but the computer will shut down. Does that mean that my power supply is not supplying enough power? Also, there are 4 red led lights on my Radeon HD 4870 graphics card, 1, 3 and 4th led stay on without going off. 1 means overheating, 3 means power connector #2 unplugged and 4 means GPU fail. Does this sound like my graphics card is failing and causing the CPU not to proceed into POST upon booting, or is it more of a power issue?

Kudos, mad respect and a grace to whoever knows of this and helps out,

Thank you!

I KNOW WHAT THIS IS I HAD IT !!! believe it or not it's an fing USB 2.0 thing ! you need a USB20C adapater going from the usb 20 header from your case to the motherboard. It's a little black extender that is the same size/shape and pin out as the USB 2.0 header from the front panel. It should have come with your case...

I had the exact same issue and I figured it out because I remembered that when I saw that little adapter on the USB 2.0 header I took it off. When I tried to boot same exact thing you're discribing... lights, camera and no action.. no video... I stumbled on the cause by removing all usb 2.0 connections and rebooting.. Voila video came up fine. I decide to put that little square black USB20C adapter block back on and VOILA .. video worked fine again!

You can test this by removing all USB 2.0 connections on the motherboard and rebooting... if you remove all the USB 2.0 connections and boot fine and you get video .. voila .. that was your problem.. you need that little USB20C adapter.

Ps... this is one of the strangest things I've seen in 10 years of building. Luckly I figured mine out in 10-15min solo.

one more for the road ... VOILA !

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by RigRebel

I KNOW WHAT THIS IS I HAD IT !!! believe it or not it's an fing USB 2.0 thing ! you need a USB20C adapater going from the usb 20 header from your case to the motherboard. It's a little black extender that is the same size/shape and pin out as the USB 2.0 header from the front panel. It should have come with your case...

I had the exact same issue and I figured it out because I remembered that when I saw that little adapter on the USB 2.0 header I took it off. When I tried to boot same exact thing you're discribing... lights, camera and no action.. no video... I stumbled on the cause by removing all usb 2.0 connections and rebooting.. Voila video came up fine. I decide to put that little square black USB20C adapter block back on and VOILA .. video worked fine again!

You can test this by removing all USB 2.0 connections on the motherboard and rebooting... if you remove all the USB 2.0 connections and boot fine and you get video .. voila .. that was your problem.. you need that little USB20C adapter.

Ps... this is one of the strangest things I've seen in 10 years of building. Luckly I figured mine out in 10-15min solo.

one more for the road ... VOILA !

sounds like a shorting issue to me

the 3800 I know is a V6 but it's another V8 Based Engine like the 4300, same bore stroke timing etc between their V8 counterparts. Buick 3800 is different than the GM/Chevrolet 3800. Year Model 1996-2002 Camaro use the Buick 3800 Series 2/3 Engine. Ive only seen the cast/steel do that because they were not serviced properly coolant or oil wise, other than that they tend to be stronger overall even under performance applications.

The 3600 is in the 2010 Camaro and up and other cars.

Originally Posted by Serg

If you're not too tight on money why not switch your stock ignition to an MSD ignition? Better spark, fuel economy and youll free up some horses. I believe you mistaken the 3800 V8, it is infact a V6 engine. Chevy Impala, and a good bunch of Buicks and some oldsmobiles come with the 3.8 V6. 3.4 is the downgraded version available for cheaper. I wasnt aware that they had a 3.6, which cars are those in now? What are the ratings for that 3.6? Actually I believe my neighbors Monte Carlo has the 3.6. Seem to be okay huh?

Well whilst the cast iron / steel is stronger than aluminum, aluminum can take heat much better without much problems. Many of the older engines end up with cracked blocks and walls. The older Iron / Steel gets, the less flexible it becomes and is prone to cracks. While aluminum holds its composure for most of its life and will only warp under very high heat. Aluminum is a more compact metal and is able to withhold more HP under compression rather than an iron / steel block which usually has to be reinforced and sleeved if you want more power. So there are drawbacks and pros to the aluminum blocks.

[JrRacinFan]

Please double check your CPU
model

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...X62CSBOX).html


Make sure its compatible.

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by JrRacinFan

Please double check your CPU
model

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...X62CSBOX).html


Make sure its compatible.

He has a AM3+ FX he just called it a 64 accidently because thats what they technically are anymore

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

sounds like a shorting issue to me

the 3800 I know is a V6 but it's another V8 Based Engine like the 4300, same bore stroke timing etc between their V8 counterparts. Buick 3800 is different than the GM/Chevrolet 3800. Year Model 1996-2002 Camaro use the Buick 3800 Series 2/3 Engine. Ive only seen the cast/steel do that because they were not serviced properly coolant or oil wise, other than that they tend to be stronger overall even under performance applications.

The 3600 is in the 2010 Camaro and up and other cars.

Sounds like exactly what i has with a brand new case and migration of old board... I put a new heat sink on a H55 and stuck it in a new Aerocool QX-2000 case (which rocks btw)... when i got the case I noticed that the USB 2.0 front header that connects to the motherboard had a wierd extender/adapter block on it that said USB20C... it made the header stand a little higher and frankly it was like putting two legos together.. I never seen that before in my 10 years of A+ and hardware specialist so I took it off and just connected the normal header to the board. When I booted for first time, all lights, no beeps (because no speakers on board probably) and no video. I rest the CMOS, tried one RAM stick did all the normal and still no VIDEO! ... I also noticed my USB keyboard did not work at all so I remembered that little USB20C adapater and basic hardware troublshooting that says .. "when in doubt, disconnect all pluggins to the motherboard except power, cpu and 1 RAm stick"... I basically skipped to the chase though and remember about that USB20C header just completely removed the USB 2.0 header from the motherboard.. and BAM!! video. To further test I took that little USB20C adapter and put it back on the USB 2.0 Front panel cable and BAM! Video came up normal!.. that fixed it for me and a tech friend confirmed it that he knew about it.

He can simply verify this by removing all USB 2.0 front panel connections from the motherboard and trying to boot. If he gets video then that's the problem.. being that he's tried several setups in the same new case and the case is the same factor in each trial and failure the case is the common thread and I bet the USB20C adapter to front panel is the issue.

[eidairaman1]

Most cases I dealt with had the USB 2.0 Pins separate and not in a single block, only PCI bracket or 3.5/5.25 bays had the combined block. Ive taken that course, never got certed but I went back to take a online practice test and I had passed it. Rest of my stuff is hands on experience and what ive seen happen.

Originally Posted by RigRebel

Sounds like exactly what i has with a brand new case and migration of old board... I put a new heat sink on a H55 and stuck it in a new Aerocool QX-2000 case (which rocks btw)... when i got the case I noticed that the USB 2.0 front header that connects to the motherboard had a wierd extender/adapter block on it that said USB20C... it made the header stand a little higher and frankly it was like putting two legos together.. I never seen that before in my 10 years of A+ and hardware specialist so I took it off and just connected the normal header to the board. When I booted for first time, all lights, no beeps (because no speakers on board probably) and no video. I rest the CMOS, tried one RAM stick did all the normal and still no VIDEO! ... I also noticed my USB keyboard did not work at all so I remembered that little USB20C adapater and basic hardware troublshooting that says .. "when in doubt, disconnect all pluggins to the motherboard except power, cpu and 1 RAm stick... I basically skipped to the chase though and remember about that USB20C header just completely removed the USB 2.0 header from the motherboard.. and BAM!! video. To further test I took that little USB20C adapter and put it back on the USB 2.0 Front panel cable and BAM! Video came up normal!.. that fixed it for me and a tech friend confirmed it that he knew about it.

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

well you havent seen everything per se i have a case here that is like that for USB 2.0 since the pinouts are the same between 1.1 and 2.0, only 3.0 has 20 pins.

Did i say 20 pins ??? never said 20 pins infact i believe it's an 8 pin or 10 pin block with one missing pin
I'll try to find you a picture and honestlly it's like this on the last two cases but the oldest one didn't require the USB20C adapater it just had a USB block.. in fact .. it looks exactly like a AC97 front panel headset and speaker out block.. exactly .. .or like the VIA HD block for VIA front panel audio.. only difference is it says "USB20C" on it

13 years the wrong way if you don't know USB 2.0 has a block header and that Desktop support and field support both are hands on also.

[JrRacinFan]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

He has a AM3+ FX he just called it a 64 accidently because thats what they technically are anymore

But TECHNICALLY there is am2 fx processors. If you are very new to building and don't doo your homework, you may run into compatibility issues. Don't assume, know.

Again, confirm CPU model#.

[Law-II]

Hi

Is there a pic of the "USB20C" that requires attaching? anyone, please

atb (all the best)

Law-II

[Serg]

Okay, the adapter is not the issue. Think of this whole issue as a dying car battery.

Bad PSU not putting out enough juice will cause loss of power to everything, so if the CPU is not going thru the Power On Self Test, that would mean it is not seeing enough juice flowing through. Hence why when I mess with USB Ports, IE taking mouse out and putting it back in, it will turn the mouse ON but the CPU will shut down. Because the PSU cannot supply enough power.

Also, I know its not the 2.0 blocks or adapters you're talking about because I have 6 ports in the back with 2 of them being 3.0. And none are working, my GPU is claiming its FAILING, only reason I can see why it would register as failing is because its not getting enough power. I have also removed all USB connections and still NO video. Thanks for the input though.

[Serg]

I have benched everything on a wooden desk, the case is no longer present. So grounding now is out of the question as well.

I can almost now guarantee that the PSU has shorted out because when I turned on the CPU for the first time, I had the PSU on the carpet, when the CPU turned on it immediately turned off, signifying a short.

And eidaraiman, good to see someone else with knowledge of the good ol' GM!

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by Law-II

Hi

Is there a pic of the "USB20C" that requires attaching? anyone, please

atb (all the best)

Law-II

The case came from Aerocool Qx-2000 case .. maybe there is a picture on their site but it wasn't even in the slack manual the had..
I went to the website and it's not there.. .i'll be home in 20 minutes and installing case fans .. i'll take a picture and upload then.

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by Serg

I have benched everything on a wooden desk, the case is no longer present. So grounding now is out of the question as well.

I can almost now guarantee that the PSU has shorted out because when I turned on the CPU for the first time, I had the PSU on the carpet, when the CPU turned on it immediately turned off, signifying a short.

And eidaraiman, good to see someone else with knowledge of the good ol' GM!

well sorry i tried. on sound alone it sounded just like the issue i had... good luck

[Norton]

Originally Posted by Serg

I have benched everything on a wooden desk, the case is no longer present. So grounding now is out of the question as well.

I can almost now guarantee that the PSU has shorted out because when I turned on the CPU for the first time, I had the PSU on the carpet, when the CPU turned on it immediately turned off, signifying a short.

And eidaraiman, good to see someone else with knowledge of the good ol' GM!

OK here's some Pr0n for GM owners.....couldn't resist!

for GM owners only

what real engines are made of

1970 350 from the 1979 Chevy C10 project in my driveway

[RigRebel]

Originally Posted by Law-II

Hi

Is there a pic of the "USB20C" that requires attaching? anyone, please

atb (all the best)

Law-II

Here's the pictures attached. Comes straight out of my case. They are laying on a sheet of white paper.

Sorry it says USBOC on it (not USB20C) runing veritcally on the far left pin the way it's showing in the first picture.
Believe it or not, without that little pin adapter on the USB 2.0 Front panel header, the board would not show video and USB Keyboard would not work, num lock light would not come on. I tried everything from switching to onboard VGA output, discrete card, clearing cmos, removing all but one ram. doing no ram etc etc... I even pulled the CPU heatsink back off and verified I hadn't bent any pins on CPU install. Case manual was useless. When I put that little pin block back on the front panel USB 2.0 header everything came up fine and normal with video....It was something I've never seen before, maybe it has to do with the wiring for the fan speed and fan light controlers runing from front panel, idk. Also, the problem I was having sounded a lot like he was "originally" having possibly on the first board so I posted to rule out. Sorry it didn't help .. good luck

[TheMailMan78]

Originally Posted by Norton

OK here's some Pr0n for GM owners.....couldn't resist!

for GM owners only

http://img.techpowerup.org/120430/350 3.jpg

what real engines are made of

http://img.techpowerup.org/120430/350 4.jpg

1970 350 from the 1979 Chevy C10 project in my driveway

350 four barrel?

I had a 1974 full size for years.

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by Serg

I have benched everything on a wooden desk, the case is no longer present. So grounding now is out of the question as well.

I can almost now guarantee that the PSU has shorted out because when I turned on the CPU for the first time, I had the PSU on the carpet, when the CPU turned on it immediately turned off, signifying a short.

And eidaraiman, good to see someone else with knowledge of the good ol' GM!

ok another question did you have the motherboard on the carpet as the powersupply or up on top of the case?

I just hope u didnt have them on either because you increased the chance of shorting the motherboard out too.

btw since we are at it. The CPU you have. Is it an AMD FX (Came in a red and white box)

[Serg]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

ok another question did you have the motherboard on the carpet as the powersupply or up on top of the case?

I just hope u didnt have them on either because you increased the chance of shorting the motherboard out too.

btw since we are at it. The CPU you have. Is it an AMD FX (Came in a red and white box)

No, the motherboard has always been inside the case on top of the spacers and rubber pieces, only the PSU was on the carpet.

Heres my CPU AMD FX-4170 Zambezi 4.2GHz (4.3GHz Turbo) Socket A... FX 4170

[Norton]

Originally Posted by Serg

No, the motherboard has always been inside the case on top of the spacers and rubber pieces, only the PSU was on the carpet.

Heres my CPU AMD FX-4170 Zambezi 4.2GHz (4.3GHz Turbo) Socket A... FX 4170

Well there may be the issue- that chip is almost brand new.... does the BIOS revision on the board support it???

**EDIT just checked... says it does but what revision BIOS does your board have? There are several newer revisions addressing "new CPU code"**
BIOS descriptions: "http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.us.asp?Model=970 Extreme3&o=BIOS"
CPU support list: http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.us.asp?Model=970 Extreme3
Sorry- paste errors??

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by Norton

Well there may be the issue- that chip is almost brand new.... does the BIOS revision on the board support it???

**EDIT just checked... says it does but what revision BIOS does your board have? There are several newer revisions addressing "new CPU code"**
BIOS descriptions: "http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.us.asp?Model=970 Extreme3&o=BIOS"
CPU support list: http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.us.asp?Model=970 Extreme3
Sorry- paste errors??

http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.as...xtreme3&o=BIOS

i think first release supported the FX line.

next one improves AM3+ 1866 ram

[Serg]

Norton, my MOBO is the 970 ASRock Extreme 3, supports AM3+ socket CPU's.

All compatible :/

To be honest Norton, I am not sure what BIOS revision the mobo has. Whatever was written to it from factory specs is what it should have.

I never was able to fully boot the PC up with new MOBO and CPU, as the first time that I turned on the PC, it turned on for a split second and shut off, and that is where I think the PSU shorted out, I have that long fluffy carpet that was just recently put in, so you're telling me the carpet killed my PSU huh?

Otherwise everything has checked out just fine!

Once again what drove me to upgrade was when I turned on my PC, I had no video just a very long BEEP signifying PSU failure? ??

So that is what drove me to upgrade the MOBO and CPU, because at a first glance, I thought my MOBO was gone.

So I ended up getting new RAM, new MOBO and new CPU. PSU, Hard Drives and CD Drive remained the same.