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#26 |
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#27 |
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habe fidem
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Try them out and see. The 120mm case fan from my 650D barely bushes air through a dust filter, can't imagine putting it on a radiator.
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#28 |
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Xspc EX rads seem to be the best slim rads available, worth looking into as they are not expensive.
Some 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon AP15s wouldn't hurt, especially if you have space for push/pull. Bgears Blaster fans also have good static pressure for not much money, as do Yate Loons, Akasa Apache/Viper, and of course Delta/Panaflo/San-Ace 120x38mm fans. |
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#29 |
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Chief Broken Rig
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im gonna have to agree with erocker here, with the pump being not being able to push the 2 rads try just the 240mm fad set fans in Push + pull and see what you get for temps, I would expect to see some kind of improvement, that said as Onedub said the corsair fans are friggin rubbish, at least the ones that come with the case that is. right now id say your custom water is performing worse then a Corsair H100 hands down.
at 1.4v 4600MHz an H100 is showing at load 57 64 60 62 on one forum the guy switched to Coolermaster R4 fans which are terrible at at 4.8 ghz and high volts his temps are better lol i would say its a combo pump cant handle 2 rads and fans are crap. Last edited by crazyeyesreaper; Jun 30, 2012 at 01:10 AM. |
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#30 |
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#31 |
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#32 |
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#33 | |
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Quote:
![]() I'm not a complete noob but, fans and air pressure/flow are not my strongest side.. Last edited by Montalva; Jun 30, 2012 at 04:14 PM. |
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#34 |
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Chief Broken Rig
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he already linked you the best fans, they arent blue but they are still the best overall.
Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM AP15 = best rad fan for the most part. |
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#35 |
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#36 |
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Chief Broken Rig
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then buy whatever fans you want but you just said you dont know what your doing essentially so.... you can either take the best fans available or buy something else your choice. good advice is good advice when followed, you dont have to follow it but if you buy something thats not up to snuff and you end up worse off you'll have some more junk fans that dont suit your needs.
that said could go with solid black Delta's their loud and semi obnoxious but cooling performance is top notch, could go with Corsair High Static Pressure fans and add in the Blue rubber ring or w.e it to customize the appearance to what you want, http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...0x120x25-.html but in the end the Gentle Typhoons are still the best fan in the lineup overall in terms of noise to cfm to static pressure and are cheaper than the corsairs There are higher speed Gentle Typhoons as well but a fan controller would be a good idea using those as they are 3000-5400 RPM variants. GT AP-15 12,99 €* 1850 RPM CFM 58 Static Pressure 2.9 mmH2O 28 Db noise lvl Corsair High Static Pressure 13,99 €* 2350 RPM CFM 63 Static Pressure 3.1 mmH20 35 Db noise lvl if your trying to keep a blue black color scheme why have Memory with grey heatsinks ? lulz the GT-AP15s would at least match those and offer a complimentary color match to said components. corsair fans you can change the outer rim color but as far as BLUE fans with good specs good luck most are shit LED fans It also goes without saying that MANY fans are OVERRATED aka the specs stated by the manufacturer are far far shy of what they specifiy, a good example of this would be my old coolermaster R4 fans they were supposedly 90 CFM etc they pushed less air then my cheapo yateloons mediums which at low speed via fan controller still push more air. So while the GT-APs are on target and im going to guess the Corsairs are as well many cheaper fans of various makes and models are just plain crap. Last edited by crazyeyesreaper; Jun 30, 2012 at 04:36 PM. |
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#37 |
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I find the gentle typoons to be pretty overrated. The AP-15s have 2.05mm static pressure, which is fairly lackluster. They make much more noise when on a rad as opposed to by themselves, as well. I am running 7 GTs now, and I wish I would have stuck with my Panflo L1s.
You need to consider how many fins per inch your rads have before selecting fans. Higher fins per inch mean you need faster fans, not quieter ones. Lower fins per inch, 7-10, are made for slow quiet fans. EDIT: http://catalog.nidec-servo.com/digit...pdf/D1225C.pdf .081 inches in h2o = 2.057mm in h20
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“growing up, i always wanted to be a vet. til i learned there was more to being a vet than just putting down cats all day.” -digibucc Last edited by MT Alex; Jun 30, 2012 at 04:41 PM. |
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#38 |
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Chief Broken Rig
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still better than most of the options available im seeing in his region,
no deltas, no san ace, no panaflo, granted im not familar with all EU sites nor where they will ship to, Corsairs will probably be the easiest to get ahold of though and offer what he wants, aka blue but no leds. could also cheap out with 6 yateloon mediums at $6 a pop he can get 2 for every 1 fan of various other varieties would allow for 6 fans at 36 for push pull combo on the 240 and the 120 rads, for matching sets, compared to 3 at 36 via GTs or Corsairs etc. but Yates can be a mixed bag some are good some are terrible depending on where you buy. but none of the options on he table are... ahem blue regardless lol Last edited by crazyeyesreaper; Jun 30, 2012 at 04:54 PM. |
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#39 |
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Yup, unless his rad is set up for slow speed fans, I'd probably go with your Yate Loons, too. No sense dropping a bunch of cash if you have to run at high speed.
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#40 |
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Chief Broken Rig
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im using 140mm yates their not bad but i can attest if you get a knock off or bad batch they suck balls, out of the 5 i bought 1 was just awful, i ditched it quick had terrible noise profile and whine, the others were fine tho.
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#41 |
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habe fidem
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Prolimatech makes a blue fan, the Vortex 12. If they work well on their dense CPU coolers (Megahalems, Armageddon, etc), they should work pretty decently on a rad.
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#42 |
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When I had my i7 2600K @ 4.5 Ghz @ 1.28v on a XSPC 240Rad RASA I was getting temps of 56 c on the hottest core. So yeah there is something a little odd here.
By any chance is it really hot out side? Do you have air conditioning? If not it could be the ambient air temp in the room. Also like Erocker suggested.... try removing the second rad..... maybe loss of pressure is your issue. I also can see.... that you have a lot of sharp corners in your loop this could help cause this loss of pressure. Since this is a new loop.... did you rinse water through its components before you hooked it up? Maybe one of these components was badly machined and there was some residue left in there causing a plug. I haven't experienced this but I have read about others..... with this issue. Which way are your fans setup..... if they are in lush pull make sure the intake side is pointed to the coldest air. Also what type of fans are you using.... Sometimes fans with very low static pressure will cause temps to be above normal. Look up those specs. Is your water block seated well.... try removing it and re-seating your water block. In the end your temps are not out of control.... your CPU will be fine. However.... you are getting closer to air cooled temp instead of water cooled temps IMO.
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#43 |
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I am here only to observe as I have this case too.
I do have this saved for if I ever decided to go water cooling. Just something I found. http://imgur.com/a/fUWD7 |
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#44 |
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Temps look normal. I have 34c ambient and getting almost same temps
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#45 |
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This maybe of some help its a good review of Rads and what rpm fans to go with them.
If you want a good pump get the Swiftech MCP35X pump or an Apogee Drive II http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=157540
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Last edited by Delta6326; Jul 3, 2012 at 06:20 AM. |
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#46 |
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UPDATE: 2
I think i have come to the limit of what i can achieve.. I removed the CPU-Block and noticed that the base had almost 50% contact to the cpu :P That fixed and new mounting kit/cooling paste New temps Idle c1-31 c2-28 c3-37 c4-32 Load c1-49 c2-50 c3-57 c4-51 |
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#47 | |
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Quote:
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