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Old Jul 21, 2012, 04:14 AM   #76
OneMoar
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this is a rough gusss
say the res is 1quart
and its 8 incs blah to late for that kind of math
read this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_head
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 05:36 AM   #77
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Doesnt sound out of spec or the like, I've ran T-lines before, which are a bitch to bleed.... best thing is to keep it running, the air will naturally work out.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 05:43 AM   #78
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Doesnt sound out of spec or the like, I've ran T-lines before, which are a bitch to bleed.... best thing is to keep it running, the air will naturally work out.
Res cap on or off?
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 06:01 AM   #79
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Res cap on or off?
off, the air has to go somewhere!
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 06:02 AM   #80
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off, the air has to go somewhere!
Right done! Thanks.

I'll just leave that running then, hopefully I don't knock it or something stupid


( Seems I've ran out of thanks so everyone will get more tomorrow : ])
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 06:10 AM   #81
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keep me posted on everything, water cooling can be such fun with the challenges it gives.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 06:34 AM   #82
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keep me posted on everything, water cooling can be such fun with the challenges it gives.
Thanks man!
It was a lot easier last loop I had I tell you that

Had a
Magicool UV 360
Liang DDC1 with XSPC res top
and a D-tek Fuzion v2 all with 1/2 ID tubing.

All that went together no problem and kept what ever I was using at the time under 40 degrees c at all times. ( I think it was a xeon 3220 but it was ages ago)



Whilst I reckon I'm still going to sell my rig( I've had quite enough of this shitty motherboard it's buggered up this FX chip as well so it no longer does 4.4 @ 1.31v), I'm thinking of keeping the water cooling parts for next time around.

Cept the block, damn thing leaks unless the fittings are tightened to an obscene degree.

That and I still think it may be a bottle neck to performance with this radiator, none of the pipes on the rad ever get warm. ( but touching the block it's noticeably above room temperature, not hot though)


By the by the fin array of the radiator is 85mm not what ever I said it was before, that's total thickness including the shroud.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 04:50 AM   #83
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BUMP!/Update

Okay after how ever many days of the air not clearing I decided "FUCK THIS NOISE!" ( see what I did there )

And fitted the Stock AMD heatsink so I could take apart the pump to have a look at it.

There was a washer that was out of place I refitted that and set up a simple Res/pump loop with the res sat higher than the pump ( using my xspc res instead of the thermaltake one) and well, it works!

Pump is whisper quiet
When I first opened up the pump the blades were touching the casing pretty much, after putting the washer back it left a 1mm gap between the blades and casing.

I'm guessing the ticking type noise was the blades stopping and starting or some such.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 05:21 AM   #84
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Glad to hear its working nicely now
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 05:22 AM   #85
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I would have RMA'd the pump I still would ifthe build quality is that shotty
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 05:31 AM   #86
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I would have RMA'd the pump I still would ifthe build quality is that shotty

Second hand, I suspect the previous owner used to reservoir that attaches directly to the pump and put the thing together wrong when reassembling. ( and obviously it would of worked fine before hand hence them suggesting it was air)

All good though, I should of taken it apart as soon as I get it like I usually do


Just one more thing if you will guys I have this reservoir http://www.xs-pc.com/products/reserv...bay-reservoir/ ( going to use it instead of the TT one) what should side should be the inlet?
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 07:15 AM   #87
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Id go with the one on the side, rather than the one in the middle... its smoother for the air to work its way out of suspension in the water.
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