Best Fluid for Liquid Cooled PC?

[ortizimo]

I'm thinking about PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid but is there one that is better? I have a nickle plated water block and the norm radiator with brass tubes. Pos/Neg comments welcomed! Thnx.

[m1dg3t]

Distilled water & algicide/biocide. The best. Always has been, always will be

[eidairaman1]

ya CPUs dont get hot enough to require Engine Coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Non...owViewpoints=1

[Feanor]

Distilled water with a few silver strips in the reservoir. Nothing more.

A shortcut on a probe once caused a tube to melt anf finally blow up. Water all around in the case. The computer was shut normally (exited windows like nothing was happening). There was water IN the pci-e slot and that is when i learned that distilled water is REALLY non-conductive!

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by Feanor

Distilled water with a few silver strips in the reservoir. Nothing more.

A shortcut on a probe once caused a tube to melt anf finally blow up. Water all around in the case. The computer was shut normally (exited windows like nothing was happening). There was water IN the pci-e slot and that is when i learned that distilled water is REALLY non-conductive!

if it gets contaminated which it does upon opening of bottle and pouring into a reservoir it becomes conductive

[Feanor]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

if it gets contaminated which it does upon opening of bottle and pouring into a reservoir it becomes conductive

Then explain me why my entire pc didn't went up in smoke then? Over 300 mL of water was spilled in the cpu area and on the graphic card in the first pci-e slot. By spilled i mean soaked, not a little drop here and there...

[ortizimo]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

if it gets contaminated which it does upon opening of bottle and pouring into a reservoir it becomes conductive

wait...that doesn't make sense. why sell it as distilled if it gets "contaminated" as soon as you open it? If so, then I'm back at square one!

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by ortizimo

wait...that doesn't make sense. why sell it as distilled if it gets "contaminated" as soon as you open it? If so, then I'm back at square one!

im just gonna say the non conductive is a sales pitch. but yes in all due honesty distilled water costs less than those fluids on the market, they also prevent corrosion/calcification better than non distilled water.

[MasterInvader]

Using this for the past 4 years in all my WC build´s [personal & clients] and never had any problems.

Feser One Cooling Fluid
http://www.tfc-us.com/shop/en/LIQUID...4fb3a610b54814

[ortizimo]

Originally Posted by MasterInvader

Using this for the past 4 years in all my WC build´s [personal & clients] and never had any problems.

Feser One Cooling Fluid
http://www.tfc-us.com/shop/en/LIQUID...4fb3a610b54814

have you used or heard anything about the VS.C version?

[MasterInvader]

Originally Posted by ortizimo

have you used or heard anything about the VS.C version?

This: Feser VS.C° Heat Carrier?
http://www.tfc-us.com/shop/en/LIQUID...arrier-TENPACK

It´s just marketing bs, I tested once and didn't notice any "improvements".

[ReaperX87]

Personally I use Feser One, it is non conductive, and this I know from experience I had a hose leak and it leaked right on time of my GPU, nothing happened I wiped it up and continued to game and what not. Still do this day no issue's with that graphics card. I would recommend Feser One.

[m1dg3t]

You guys will reccomend this stuff untill the first time you service your loop or run into temp problems, I have seen too many gunked up loops to even think about this overpriced junk. Coloured tubing/lights & pure water is the way to go!

[ReaperX87]

I have serviced my loop every 6-8 months no issues no gunking what so ever. I dont know about all that. But hey everyones computer is different and everyone has there own taste in things they use. Since I havent had issue's and computer's I build for other's havent had any issue's with that. I think it is good stuff. But like i said everyone has different taste.

[m1dg3t]

LUCKY YOU! I have seen enough problems to stay away. Not to mention the what, $20/liter pricetag.

I been watercooling since about '04, you want colours? They make tubing & lights for that

Never had a leak, never lost a component, never had ANY problems at all Distilled water & zipties FTW!

[eidairaman1]

Originally Posted by m1dg3t

LUCKY YOU! I have seen enough problems to stay away. Not to mention the what, $20/liter pricetag.

I been watercooling since about '04, you want colours? They make tubing & lights for that

Never had a leak, never lost a component, never had ANY problems at all Distilled water & zipties FTW!

heck even food coloring lmao

[ortizimo]

so you get gunk from glycol?

[m1dg3t]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

heck even food coloring lmao

You could but that would more than likely stain your equipment eventually.

Originally Posted by ortizimo

so you get gunk from glycol?

I never had any issue with Glycol, never used more than 5% in a loop though either.

[MT Alex]

m1dg3t is right, folks. Putting dyed coolant in a loop is like putting pasties on a phenomenal set of hooters - it's just for looks and is a damn sight poorer than the straight up deal.

[theoneandonlymrk]

if you have mixed blocks, alloy and brass/copper a glycol based coolant is worth the money, im using primochill as i have a mixed system( my reservour is a custom made ally thing), i tried distilled water, and got gunk, imho its the mixing of metals that is to blame as i have had all combos mixed metal and not, using glycol and distilled water and mixing alloy and copper is the only thing thats brought on the gunking regardless of coolant(much less so with glycol but i am thinking new res time).

and by a damn sight you mean 1-2 degrees ie not much in fact what type of coolant you put in will make little difference either way in reallity/ un over the top land.

[cdawall]

Originally Posted by eidairaman1

ya CPUs dont get hot enough to require Engine Coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Non...owViewpoints=1

More like most loops do not get cold enough to require vehicle coolant. There are still some of us that run loops that are cold enough to require it...



Overall I wouldn't use a coolant at all in a loop. Run water, biocide and a dye if you want color. Change the coolant out when the dye starts to fade and makes sure to clean the internals of the block. I have been running loops for about 4 years now and that hasn't failed me yet.

[erocker]

Distilled water. Nothing else.

[ZenZimZaliben]

The best...probably Mercury or sodium-potassium alloy. Of course not the most practical, but you didn't ask about that.

But how awesome would it be to have a Mercury cooled PC.

Edit...obviously was being a smarta55, but got me thinking..would this be possible...Gonna take a much bigger pump, and I doubt standard tubing or plexi res would work.

[Feanor]

Originally Posted by erocker

Distilled water. Nothing else.

Quite clear and simple.

Originally Posted by ZenZimZaliben

The best...probably Mercury or sodium-potassium alloy. Of course not the most practical, but you didn't ask about that.

But how awesome would it be to have a Mercury cooled PC.

Edit...obviously was being a smarta55, but got me thinking..would this be possible...Gonna take a much bigger pump, and I doubt standard tubing or plexi res would work.

Good luck pumping mercury. One mL of water weights 1,0 g. Mercury is 13,6 g/mL. Dead pump within hours i would guess is what you'll end up with.