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Old Sep 6, 2012, 09:18 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by AlienIsGOD View Post
not everyone needs the latest and greatest stuff. Why not get an SSD at current prices? prices are right atm and why reinstall Win 7 twice? he only plays D3 and is going to start playing BF3, he's not a HUGE gamer. So the choices i've made or am deciding on are great starting points that he can upgrade in the future. A 120GB SSD makes "sense" for the above reasons and the fact that my friend WANTS a SSD to start with. Im not giving him bad advice in any shape or form.
Your not giving him bad advice, ur just not giving him any fucking advice. He'd be better off going to best buy and having some clueless 17 year old pull shit out of his ass and try to sell him a laptop $500 overpriced and full of shit that doesnt make sense.

But whatever, its ur friend. And fuck it, not like you asked for our help or anything
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Old Sep 6, 2012, 09:20 PM   #27
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money isnt overly a problem, he only has a fixed amount each month to spend and HE wants the SSD now and to grab a 1TB the month after this. Gfx wise, that is what he stated, he may just be satisfied with a 7770 or 550Ti.

He's never had a desktop before and wants to build a good one that will last. The best way to do that is to buy a few pieces at a time each month until its working, he's using a laptop atm with HD4200 gfx so im sure any card will be an improvement anyhow.

Also, the lappy is somewhat beat up... missing some keys, etc. I could always salvage the SATA drives from that and put it in the new rig.
the bigger the hdd or ssd the bigger the loss of data you want to keep. Back ups are a must. Optical disks n other hds/flash drives that are put away help alleviate this problem.

I would just get a Seagate 7200.12 or newer gen hd for the os. My bros machine boots in less than a minute despite being hd based. Heck i had to put in a Uefi/bios boot delay so i could get into it


Hey ShiBDiB you havin a bad day dude?
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Old Sep 6, 2012, 09:25 PM   #28
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Your not giving him bad advice, ur just not giving him any fucking advice. He'd be better off going to best buy and having some clueless 17 year old pull shit out of his ass and try to sell him a laptop $500 overpriced and full of shit that doesnt make sense.

But whatever, its ur friend. And fuck it, not like you asked for our help or anything
Wow man, i think you need to remove yourself from this thread as your not helping at all. Differences of opinions happen sometimes and resorting to above comments only shows your immaturity. Like really, we disagree on a HDD and you go apeshit basically insulting me.... thats not the ShiBDiB i've come to know on the forums........
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Old Sep 6, 2012, 09:31 PM   #29
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Back ups are a must. Optical disks n other hds/flash drives that are put away help alleviate this problem.
Its funny atm externals HDD combos are priced better than standalone HDDs at my store >_< But ya i suppose we could get a 1TB and get the SSD down the road.

As for graphics its better to have a 7770/550Ti than onboard Intel for 4 or 5 months. Its not like my friend wants to put every single dime into this rig month after month. Plan is to get the thing running enough to game daily and then he wants to upgrade down the road in places where he sees fit and I dont see that any different than what ppl do on this site
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Old Sep 6, 2012, 09:50 PM   #30
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My opinion is ; if wants a high end sku(gpu) later this year why don't run the igp until he gets one,
But would keep the the ssd, i have one now for 6monts and i won't go back to a rig without one, hdd are just to slow
Also get a nice i5
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 10:32 PM   #31
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So in 6 days we will be buying the rest of the PC and we have decided to go with these parts: Corsair CX 430w, Antec VSK 1000 case and a Sapphire HD7770. Im going to give my friend a 250GB Sata HDD so he can buy BF 3 this month too.

The only question I have is will the CX 430 handle the GFX card along with the rest of the system?
It should work, but that's about it. It doesn't give you much headroom for overclocking or adding other components. 550-watt might be a better option, but that is just me.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 10:54 PM   #32
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No overclocking is planned and he only intends to have 2 Sata drives connected. http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine says 275 w recommended. This is my friend's 1st homebuilt PC so its not inteneded to be a high end gaming rig, just a decent enouh box to play the latest games on REASONABLE settings.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 10:57 PM   #33
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no overclocking is planned and he only intends to have 2 Sata drives connected.
You don't want to get close to maxing out the PSU. I always give myself plenty of headroom ever since a number of friend's computers got fried from over-voltage because it couldn't produce enough current. PSU is one of those things that you never want to skimp on because it is the one that that can kill every part of your computer and provides every part of your computer with power. It's important to make sure that power is stable and reliable. Plus, running PSUs harder makes more heat and heat is a common killer of hardware. I really think that 430 might be pushing it, even if it does work.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 10:59 PM   #34
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can you recommend me one under $60 from this site? http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...&location=KING
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 11:00 PM   #35
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find a psu calculator
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 11:02 PM   #36
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the link i put up 2 post ago was a PSU calculator site it said 225w max output and it recommended a 275w PSU
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 11:12 PM   #37
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get a 550 watter. reason is cuz later he getting faster gc later and a ssd/hdd
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 12:39 AM   #38
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get a 550 watter. reason is cuz later he getting faster gc later and a ssd/hdd
Not just that, but running a PSU closer to max makes more heat which will degrade the device over time. It can also impact voltage regulation on some PSUs. All in all, make sure you have a good amount of overhead just in case. Also keep in mind that as PSUs get used and get older, their ability to produce max output goes down. It is a device susceptible to degrading over time.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 12:53 AM   #39
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what about the thermaltake 600w ? http://www.canadacomputers.com/produ...item_id=040842 or the Coolermaster 525w http://www.canadacomputers.com/produ...item_id=051198 ?
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 02:04 AM   #40
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They both look good. I like the 5 year warranty on the Thermaltake.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 02:28 AM   #41
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550w is more than enough for a mid range rig. 700w might sound good but they aren't needed with all these energy efficient parts we have now to play with ... but at that price I would also go for the 700watter. I just hope the price is still the same when he buys it


The HyperX RAM is 1.65v. Not a huge deal but it'll force your IMC to run at a higher voltage. Just FYI.


Why mATX? You can get a full ATX board for almost the same price: http://www.canadacomputers.com/produ...item_id=047652
Just saw the MSI ATX. NVM.

Everything else looks fine to me.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:37 AM   #42
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so I have decided on a Sapphire 7770 for $120, a Tt V3 case for $45 and a Tt TR2 600w PSU for $55. Im going to borrow him a 250GB Sata HDD for now so he can afford BF 3 today too all in all not a bad 1st rig for someone on a budget
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:12 AM   #43
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so I have decided on a Sapphire 7770 for $120, a Tt V3 case for $45 and a Tt TR2 600w PSU for $55. Im going to borrow him a 250GB Sata HDD for now so he can afford BF 3 today too all in all not a bad 1st rig for someone on a budget
As long as he will be able to play with good enough fps in BF3 with his rig regardless of the amount of eye candy, great budget rig.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:20 AM   #44
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As long as he will be able to play with good enough fps in BF3 with his rig regardless of the amount of eye candy, great budget rig.
for now he will be using my Acer 19" so a mix of low/med settings @ 1366 × 768 should work well for now.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:31 AM   #45
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for now he will be using my Acer 19" so a mix of low/med settings @ 1366 × 768 should work well for now.
You settled for Ivy quad?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:54 AM   #46
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You settled for Ivy quad?
no, I already purchased a Core i3 2120 and B75 mobo last month.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:02 PM   #47
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Help im getting power LED lights and the Green standby power light on the Asus motherboard but nothing starts up... can someone help me?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:20 PM   #48
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Take ESD/Static Discharge Precautions for handling all Circuit boards/Integrated circuits.

bench run the board, take everything out of the case put on non conductive bench or table or even a box off the floor.

read motherboard manual

reset the CMOS/BIOS/UEFI by reading motherboard manual

clear all components of dust via can air or air compressor (take caution of condensation)

re-assure the CPU is inserted in the socket properly- re-apply thermal compound to CPU, if need be remove CPU and air clean the Socket and CPU itself.

remove and air clean ram and ram sockets- reinsert ram

remove and air clean GPU and all PCI E/PCI/AGP sockets- reinsert video card

Air clean the ATX and 4 Pin P4 or EPS 8Pin power connectors on the motherboard, do same on power supply.

hook up psu to Motherboard, power switch, and video card, keyboard and mouse and just see if the system will powerup then with video too.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 12:21 AM   #49
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Help im getting power LED lights and the Green standby power light on the Asus motherboard but nothing starts up... can someone help me?
Start off bare bones just so you can get to the BIOS screen.
So no hdd or optical, no motherboard fan headers used, one stick of ram, unplug reset, rest LED and HDD LED, then try firing it up.
If it still does not work, switch to another ram slot.
But you probably have already read the instructions which state which slot one stick of ram is supposed to go into, so on to trying another stick of ram in the same slot.

Of course double check to see if 8/4 pin and 24 pin power connectors are firmly attached.
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Old Oct 1, 2012, 02:41 PM   #50
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Tried everything and couldn't get it to post, so we took it to the service centre @ Canada Computers. I think the PSU may be faulty, in any case its being serviced under warranty so any parts that need replacing are going to be done when working on the PC. I wrangled that deal as the other parts were bought on Aug 31st and therefore still under 30 day in store warranty
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