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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:22 AM   #51
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I'm not ignoring, I already put the psu in the cart. I'm just asking should I get a better cooler or get different fans for the one I have now.
Basically the better fans in push pull will move a lot more air across the radiator of your H50 resulting in more heat being dissapated resulting in better temperatures. The better TIM wil supply better heat transfer between the CPU and the H50 block. All of which will give you better temperatures.

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take the custom whole water cooling idea and throw it right out the window
first up you need to get your voltage issues "both power supply and motherboard setting related under control)
This as well.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:22 AM   #52
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Alright, but the only reason why I'm asking about the cooling is because I just want to ask all my questions while this post is active.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:23 AM   #53
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Basically the better fans in push pull will move a lot more air across the radiator of your H50 resulting in more heat being dissapated resulting in better temperatures. The better TIM wil supply better heat transfer between the CPU and the H50 block. All of which will give you better temperatures.



This as well.
By how much of an decrease in temps do you think this will do? As in adding the fans. * After I get the psu *
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:23 AM   #54
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Alright, but the only reason why I'm asking about the cooling is because I just want to ask all my questions while this post is active.
this thread will always be active, unless you post asking to close it.

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By how much of an decrease in temps do you think this will do? As in adding the fans. * After I get the psu *
Not sure really. Maybe 10-15c. Your H50 might also be seated incorrectly on the CPU, so if you reseat it with the TIM as well thatll help.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:24 AM   #55
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MAXIMUM voltages for the cpu are as follows

1.420v for the CPU vcore ( You should not need this much voltage most chips only need about 1.38v)
1.220 for the CPU-NB ( you should not need to touch this unless you are rasing your HT link speed)
1.250 for the NORTH-BRIDGE(NB) (you should not need to touch this unless you are overclocking via the Host clock control and or changing your NORTHBRIDGE speed)
1.1150 for the south-bridge ( you should never touch this EVER)
and threads on TPU never die they just sleep
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:24 AM   #56
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Oh, good I'm a little new here and I don't post much.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:25 AM   #57
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provided you can set the core voltages right the h50 should keep it under 65c @ 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v(with the better fans)
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:26 AM   #58
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MAXIMUM voltages for the cpu are as follows

1.420v for the CPU vcore ( You should not need this much voltage most chips only need about 1.38v)
1.220 for the CPU-NB ( you should not need to touch this unless you are rasing your HT link speed)
1.200 for the NORTH-BRIDGE(NB) (you should not need to touch this unless you are overclocking via the Host clock control and or changing your NORTHBRIDGE speed)
1.1 for the southbridge ( you should never touch this EVER)
and threads on TPU never die they just sleep
Well the guy's said not to worry about that until I get a new psu. I've been building for about 3 years but I never paid attention to the products that I've purchased. As long as they were working that would be fine. But now I'm into video editing and I can't stand the slowness of the rendering or lagging.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:27 AM   #59
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provided you can set the core voltages right the h50 should keep it under 65c @ 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v(with the better fans)
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Well the guy's said not to worry about that until I get a new psu. I've been building for about 3 years but I never paid attention to the products that I've purchased. As long as they were working that would be fine. But now I'm into video editing and I can't stand the slowness of the rendering or lagging.
yes but you asked so write it down :P
and if you a are into rendering then you should have bought a core i5 :P
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:28 AM   #60
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Well the guy's said not to worry about that until I get a new psu. I've been building for about 3 years but I never paid attention to the products that I've purchased. As long as they were working that would be fine. But now I'm into video editing and I can't stand the slowness of the rendering or lagging.
Well by the PSU now. You don't exactly have the best CPU for video editting anyways.

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yes but you asked so write it down :P
and if you a are into rendering then you should have bought a core i5 :P
I would even say an i7
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:28 AM   #61
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Well by the PSU now. You don't exactly have the best CPU for video editting anyways.
don't be so mean the 8120 ISN'T THAT HORRIBLE at video editing probably better then what he was using
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:28 AM   #62
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I'll give that a go and just to make sure, the bios temps aren't accurate? I've tested 3 programs and they're all the same except the bios...
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:29 AM   #63
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Well by the PSU now. You don't exactly have the best CPU for video editting anyways.



I would even say an i7
I can tell it's a lot better than my 6 core at 3.6ghz the 8 core beats it with stock settings.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:29 AM   #64
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I'll give that a go and just to make sure, the bios temps aren't accurate? I've tested 3 programs and they're all the same except the bios...
Bios temps are never accurate there always a bit on the highside
check with core temp and or real temp
also make sure your fan speed is set to 100% and any smart fan-controls are OFF
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:31 AM   #65
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All my fans are on max, and on stock settings my idel is 21c. Max load is like 35c. When I clicked the turbo button it was at 30+c idel and 65 max so I put it back to norm.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:38 AM   #66
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All my fans are on max, and on stock settings my idel is 21c. Max load is like 35c. When I clicked the turbo button it was at 30+c idel and 65 max so I put it back to norm.
thats because the auto-overclocking(turbo) is pushing way to much voltage

(when you get your new psu in)

Set the CPU-core multi to 1.38(if it fails or is unstable you can try 1.42)
set the core-Multi to 20X
set the Nortbridge multi to 11
set the HT Muli to 11 or 2200Mhz
set the CPU-NB voltage to 1.20v
set the North-bridge(not the same as cpu-nb) voltage to 1.150

disable the following
CE1 state
Turbo boost
Cool and quiet
Spread spectrum
that should put the cpu @ 4Ghz and be stable enough to boot into windows
after you get it booted run either OCCT or Lin-pack on Medium for at least an hour
if it passes that you can bump the the multi to 22.5(4.5Ghz because 200x22.5=4500) and then run OCCT/prime95 or linpack for 2 hours ( if you had success at 4Ghz @ 1.38v you can go ahead and bump it to 1.42v)
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:40 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by OneMoar View Post
thats because the auto-overclocking(turbo) is pushing way to much voltage

(when you get your new psu in)

Set the CPU-core to 1.38(if it fails or is unstable you can try 1.42)
set the core-Multi to 20X
set the Nortbridge multi to 11
set the HT Muli to 11 or 2200Mhz
set the CPU-NB voltage to 1.20v
set the North-bridge(not the same as cpu-nb) voltage to 1.150

disable the following
CE1 state
Turbo boost
Cool and quiet
Spread spectrum
that should put the cpu @ 4Ghz and be stable enough to boot into windows
after you get it booted run either OCCT or Lin-pack on Medium for at least an hour
Nice. Good thing you are an AMD user. Ive only overclocked one AMD system in my life. Way more accustom to intel.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:43 AM   #68
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I'll do that in a few, If the idel goes above 30c should I just reset everything and not mess with it until I get the psu and the cpu fans?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:43 AM   #69
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Nice. Good thing you are an AMD user. Ive only overclocked one AMD system in my life. Way more accustom to intel.
note the name of the system in my specs
I had a 2500k but Lighting killed it (fire out the back)
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:44 AM   #70
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I'll do that in a few, If the idel goes above 30c should I just reset everything and not mess with it until I get the psu and the cpu fans?
Idle temps don't mean shit ignore them
the only thing you need to care about is the load temp
Keep the "cores" under 62c everything else you can flat-ignore
I can't stress it enough that you should resist the Urge to tweak untill you get that suspect PSU replaced
those cheap ones when they go they go out with a BANG
I do my load testing with OCCT because it has a handy function where if the temps go over a set limit it stops the test
http://www.ocbase.com/index.php/download
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:02 AM   #71
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Alright, well thank you everyone. I guess I'll respond back to this whenever I get the psu.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:21 AM   #72
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did you order it?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:25 AM   #73
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I'm going to bestbuy to pick it up.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:27 AM   #74
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I'm going to bestbuy to pick it up.
They don't sell very good power supplies. And unless you live in California, you are going to have to pay tax, and the PSU is on sale on newegg with free shipping.

You are better of buying from newegg. Best Buy has shitty prices.

CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2...

Free 3 day shipping, no tax assuming you dont live in califonia. $129 total. Extra $10 off if you do the Mail in Rebate.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:28 AM   #75
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They have the corsair 700watt
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