Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

[calvary1980]

by the way love the thread but the plastic hose clamps on page 1 are horrible they can shift around or even come off and they are not necessary for 7/16" tubing often system builders will buy a pack of cables ties usually 4" black or white for cable management or fans they work great as clamps. I would also stay away from 90' fittings it will just add more restriction with Tygon Tubing you don't need Smart Coils or Fittings because the Tubing has a good bend radius. Pump is fine

- Christine

[MKmods]

I use the MCP 355 with the Koolance top (better porting and more choices on hose posistion)
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=466

[philbrown23]

Here's my kit!
1 D-tek FuZion with pro mount and accelerator nozzle kit
2 swifteck Mcpsomthing pump
3 3/8 id tubing with reducers for pump
4 swiftech mcr220/res soon to be fillport I'm just too lazy to drill the hole lol
and future switchout/addon of the mcr320 rad
2x yate loon 90cfm fans (Idon't mind the noise)

[intel igent]

Originally Posted by Wile E

It's a MCP-350/DDC-1. But I have no idea how that top is gonna perform

have a look at my last post, i think its in there

what rad is the single 120? what fans? shroud or no shroud?

[DaMulta]

I am using this pump on 17v with my meanwell
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed





With the meanwell I can tell a huge differance in the way my pump runs.I just let it run 24/7 because it's not hurting anything. It sounds like a fish tank LOL.

[intel igent]

@ DaMulta : D-5b? there is some question as to the actual setting of the pump as they are reported to be fixed at setting 4 but there have been a few instances reported of performance identical to setting 2, so be carefull

i think the heat dump from yor pump at 17v would offset the perormance increase, 13.5v-14v is the sweet spot for your pump IIRC, 18v for an IWAKI

@ phillbrown : get rid of the reducers and run 7/16th tubing with 1/2" barbs

[EastCoasthandle]

Originally Posted by Wile E

Ok guys, I've narrowed my cpu block choices down to either the D-Tek Fuzion, or the EK Surpreme. According to OC3D's review, the EK performs better on an OCed quad, but is much more restrictive. Like, almost as restrictive as the Storm.

And what are the recommendations for a gpu block? Never really did much research into them. MCW60 and Maze5 pop to ming immediately, but are there any better block for the price?

I would get the d-tek FuZion. I've tried a few in my time and the d-tek is a better WB IMO. The storm was a good block for a single die CPU and I loved it but it doesn't compare to the FuZion.

Originally Posted by MKmods

First to EastCoasthandle, that is the best first post I have ever read, excellent job!

to Wile E: with that huge case run dual setups.

I just built a Carbonfiber SLI LAN box (made my own GPU blocks)

Thanks
Not bad on the WB, are you a metal worker by trade?

Originally Posted by calvary1980

by the way love the thread but the plastic hose clamps on page 1 are horrible they can shift around or even come off and they are not necessary for 7/16" tubing often system builders will buy a pack of cables ties usually 4" black or white for cable management or fans they work great as clamps. I would also stay away from 90' fittings it will just add more restriction with Tygon Tubing you don't need Smart Coils or Fittings because the Tubing has a good bend radius. Pump is fine

- Christine

I know you can use 7/16" tubing on 1/2" ID barbs without the fasteners (at first). However, over time the tubing begins to "mold" itself into the shape of the barb and it may keep it's seal however in my experience it can fail, losing it's seal and dumping a hard stream of water onto your PC. If you remove your tubing from the barb after a few months it typically will not reseal itself like it did the first time you tried it (when the tubing was in new condition). You will see the end of the tubing taking on the shape of the barb making a air/water tight seal impossible.

This is why I never recommend nor suggest installing tubing without fasteners. This is why the plastic fasteners are just fine, if they are loose and your hand is not strong enough to tighten it down, use a pair of wide moth pliers. If the plastic fasteners are to big/small then get the metal kind. However, these are a bit difficult to tighten down or un-tighten once the PC is put together for the video card and CPU WB as screwdriver is typically to long to properly maneuver. The plastic tighteners have an advantage in this avenue.

[Fitseries3]

i've got a d-tek fusion currently as well as a DD MC-TDX and a swiftech apogee gt and the d-tek is the best overall in performance.

[EastCoasthandle]

slight update to OP

[DaMulta]

Now my CPU voltage should read 1.56V.
My setup

DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed

MEANWELL S-320-12
Black Ice GTX240
Copper TDX Block for AMD AM2 Processor
Chrome Version MAZE4GPU
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir

[DaMulta]

I also use tubing with nylon in it.



It's harder to fight leaks with it, but no crinks in the tubes.


Also I have found it easier to just get one of these to bleed the system.
It's faster and easier by far.

[Wile E]

Originally Posted by EastCoasthandle

I would get the d-tek FuZion. I've tried a few in my time and the d-tek is a better WB IMO. The storm was a good block for a single die CPU and I loved it but it doesn't compare to the FuZion.

I wasn't looking at the Storm, I was looking at the EK Supreme. It's been tested to cool better than the Fuzion, but it's about as restrictive as the storm.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/eksuuncpuwa1.html

Review here: http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.p..._water_block/4

I'm still torn on which block to get, Fuzion or EK, but I have decided to commit to running my cpu in it's own loop, so I don't think the restriction of the EK block will be an issue.

[EastCoasthandle]

Originally Posted by Wile E

I wasn't looking at the Storm, I was looking at the EK Supreme. It's been tested to cool better than the Fuzion, but it's about as restrictive as the storm.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/eksuuncpuwa1.html

Review here: http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.p..._water_block/4

I'm still torn on which block to get, Fuzion or EK, but I have decided to commit to running my cpu in it's own loop, so I don't think the restriction of the EK block will be an issue.

I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction. IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.


DaMulta:
That's not a bad setup. How long have you had it?

[Wile E]

Originally Posted by EastCoasthandle

I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction. IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.

Yeah, you're probably right. Guess I'll just get the Fuzion. And not only that, I was thinking more about it, and they didn't test it against a jetted Fuzion. So with tweaks, the Fuzion will likely pull ahead again anyway.

[DaMulta]

Originally Posted by EastCoasthandle

I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction. IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.


DaMulta:
That's not a bad setup. How long have you had it?

I have had most of it from about September. I bought it when I was running two 180Watt Tecs on X1950XTX cards. It would idle at -2c, so the TECs was kept plenty cool.

[intel igent]

just when i thought i was done

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post2809060

it just keeps getting better

[sneekypeet]

ok fellas here is my question. I am using some older parts and it seems to be working well enough for my E6400.

I am using an older TDX waterblock with the restricter placed over the fins on the inlet side.

I am also using a Hydor Seltz L30 which even at the 2 foot head to the rad will run 4.6Gal/minute.
will removing the "cats eye" restricter, will temps go up or down?

[intel igent]

4.6 GPM how did you get this? using Martinm210's flow calc?

flow calculator/estimator:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151627

the purpose of the nozzles/plates is to create turbulence which in turn increases cooling efficiency, i think your temps would increase by removing it.

[sneekypeet]

Originally Posted by intel igent

4.6 GPM how did you get this? using Martinm210's flow calc?

http://www.overclockers.com/articles672/

I did the math based on 275GPH @ 2foot head. Its 4.5888888GPM

Also with the original TDX which DD doesnt show anylonger, they had like a 5 piece kit. Different sizes and one to do yourself, but they also said to try without.

[intel igent]

put your pump in a loop and those #'s will change because you've added restrictions, the #'s you're posting are free flow #'s.

i posted the flow estimator for you incase you were unaware of its existence it is very helpfull

what else is going in the loop?

when got into W/C the 3 barb blox were king

i remember most of those early days including somethings about the TDX

[sneekypeet]

just what is in the specs....no Graphics just CPU

I dont see a flow estimator...could you repost...also most of the estimators dont use my parts in thier lists!

[intel igent]

leave the plate in there for reasons i mentioned earlier

do you have any of the other plates?

theres the link to the estimator in post #104

[sneekypeet]

nope it would be with or without.

[intel igent]

Originally Posted by sneekypeet

nope it would be with or without.

with the plate, check my previous posts if you missed something

[sneekypeet]

Version 2.5 doesnt have my pump and I couldnt seem to get rid of the GPU block!