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#1 |
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Water cooling First attempt.
Hi guys, im starting this thread as im starting to receive the parts for my first loop. im going to use this thread to hopefully seek advice from others that are alot wiser then me when it comes to water cooling. I hope you can help me with advice and bare with me when i might ask what sometimes will seem like 'stupid' questions to your wise heads in terms of watercooling. Im really getting excited about the loop arriving, i feel like a little kid around Christmas time. Remember some of this stuff may not be top notch compared to what others members have here, but its my first loop so i wanted to keep this standard/simple for me without thinking about what types of fans/ extra items i would need
. So please don't bash what i have bought, im looking for advice and help.Its a new era for me and i have considered going water for a long time, but never had the knowledge or advice. I have decided to take the jump with advice from Members here, i have to give a big shout out to Kenkicker, who has been nothing but help. Also want to thank all the TPU members as i would of never taken the jump to water without everyones input, Tbh my wallet, proberly wouldnt be as light if i wouldnt have found these forums tho . TPU has definitely put my LOVE back into PC's and gaming alike. so THANKS to all ![]() Thanks for reading that... ok now onto what ive got today. Setup XSPC Delta V3 CPU Acetal XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir Pump XSPC Single radiator 120mm 3.8" barbs Awaiting Swifttech MCW70 GPU block Here is what i have received this morning.
Last edited by Reefer86; Oct 15, 2009 at 11:28 AM. |
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#2 |
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You bought nothign but rubbish! Lol, joking, I had to.
I take it you want to hook the GPU and the CPU in one loop, like I did? If yes, do you already have the layout in mind? I can say its a good decision to watercool that 4890. The reference cooler is indeed rubbish and loud, I was very pleased when I installed the blocks on my 4890. And even tho I have two 4890s and an overclocked q6600 in the same loop, the GPU temp are very very low. I'll be following your path to teh h2o temple.
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#3 |
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yes I will be cooling both in the same loop, I have a Phenom 550x2 arriving on Tuesday hopefully also, so that will run alot cooler then my old Athlon x2
![]() I was thinking maybe res/pump (combo) - 240 rad - cpu - 120 rad - gpu - res/pump Any good? And i heard the H20 temple is full of naked ladies and lovely plushy pillows is that right?
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#4 | |
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EDIT: I see you being ok with just a 120mm Double rad, tbh. The 120 single would help some but not as much as you would think. Plus it would add more tubing to the loop which may end up being a nightmare inside your case.
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Last edited by JrRacinFan; Oct 9, 2009 at 03:49 PM. |
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#5 | |
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#6 | |
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Hmm laadies are somehow fascinated by water cooled comps, but its not guaranteed they get naked just because of that.
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#7 | |
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Even my wife was in awe every time I were to open the side panel. Like mesmerized or something. Good luck with your first w/cing venture! ![]() **whispers** Wish I could go back ...... |
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#8 |
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i will be installing a Phenom II 550x2 and same specs as on the right <<<<<
I guess i will try and figure out which way im going to run the loop when i get a feel for where everything will go. Here is a diagram for anyone thats wants to help me have a go ![]() i could put the 120 rad on the bottom of the case, as there is a intake there, just a fyi |
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#9 |
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I think the single rad would do better at the bottom... but then again, it would heat the rig up. But THEN again, if you have it at the back, the rad will get warmer air that it will if its at the bottom. No, I think bottom is the better solution.
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#10 |
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be better for my 'tubing management' as well i think, if thats what its called
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#11 |
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Is there a fan or two at the front of your case? If so then I'd put the rad @ the bottom and let those front fans push the heat to the back of your case.
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#12 |
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well actually there isnt
i have no room with putting the 2 bay res in there, but im sure i can mod something if thats going to be a good option. Ok i have some noob questions also. Brace yourself im even kicking myself writing them! After I have made my loop, I assume I will test outside the case for leaks etc. any good ways of doing this? How much water do i put in, and how do i know that there is enough? How often do i need to top up my loop? Whats the best way cool my rads, push or pull on them, or both? How do I bleed the loop ? Any hickups that can happen often that can be easily resolved, tricks and tips? Last edited by Reefer86; Oct 9, 2009 at 05:16 PM. |
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#13 |
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Congrats on your first attempt. I remember taking excruciating amounts of time the very first time I put together my loop. I cant justify spending that much time anymore on something I may choose to upgrade on a whim
(happened twice already)I will say that careful planing and preparation do not go unnoticed, so keep the 'noob' questions comming as they are a sign of you wanting to learn prior to making a mistake and leaking water on your MB and ruining your rig! ![]() Leak test option, install the stock cpu/gpu cooler(or whatevers on there already) and just plug in your pump. This will pump the water through the res and all the connections and not come in contact with your sensitives. Water, Distilled Water only! Let me stress it again, DISTILLED WATER it's $1.49 at your local store use it instead of tap water. Maybe a bit of dye or anti-corrosive stuff. Depending on the length of your loop you may use about 1L, but it all depends on your tube lenghts and radiator/reservoir. You can check your reservoir weekly for levels but I dont think youll need to add more until a few months down the road. Rad-Fan setup is a personal preference. I think a fan pulling air in actually makes the fan louder. So I suggest push only on a good fan(1500rpm or 80+CFM). Since your using a single 120 fan I'd go with a 1900rmp Sycthe S-Flex. They are a touch loud but push hella air. I bleed my loop with a bucket and two towels since it's half inside the case, half outside the case.(not for long though )Biggest tip I suggest is using Teflon Tape. It seals the barbs much better, and its super cheap. Also we have a club for the Naturally Inspired Watercooling peeps, come check it out. Tons of details and thoughts shared.
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#14 |
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thanks for the tip mlee, i found the Naturally Inspired Watercooling Club via the search, was a really informative read, took me a few hours to take in all the info.
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#15 |
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You can also leak test like this: Install the loop and everything, but connect only the pump to your PSU (said PSU must be bypassed). If it leaks, it damages nothing, because your hardware is not running.
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#16 |
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+1. That is the only way I leak test. I like this method especially because I like to layout my options first of were everything is going to be within the case. Once I'm happy with how I think the air flow and tidiness is going to be then I set everything up and start leak testing knowing I'm not going to change my mind on how I have everything laid out.
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#17 |
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sounds like a good way to try things and easiest way to find out my lengths of tubing etc.
I need more tubing...... i want to play even if it is only on my desk
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#18 |
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ok im now looking for some fans for the setup i have, there is a diagram of my case in the thread and im trying to decide what fans to use on the rads and case i have.
Im not sure what to buy tbh, i dont want to spend a fortune on them but i have about another £100 to spend on bits on bobs, but i dont want to go buy something that is not needed. |
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#19 |
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Look around for a couple Deltas ......
![]() Just kidding. The MCR220 likes high static pressure 25mm fans. That can be thrown out the window if you find high cfm 38mm fans though. Pretty much you pick-n-choose what you like and everyone will give you there thoughts on it. Personally I like the Scythe Kaze's, CoolerMaster R4's and Antec TriCools. |
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#20 | |
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#21 |
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what about these
120mm Yate Loons @ £5.21 Model: D12SL-12 • Color: Clear/LED • Dimensions: 120 x 120 x 25 mm • Operating Temp: -10 - 65°C • Normal Voltage: 12 V • Rated Speed: 1350RPM (12V) • Airflow: 47CFM (12V) • Noise: Approx. 28 dB(A) (12V) or the xilence red wings @ £5.10 Airflow: 57,91 CFM (12V) Noise: Approx. 21.2 dB(A) (12V) or xilence pro blue @ £5.10 Color: Clear with Blue LEDs • Dimensions: 120 x 120 x 25 mm • Normal Voltage: 12 V • Rated Speed: 1300 RPM (12V) • Airflow: 44.7 CFM (12V) • Noise: Approx. 20.5 dB(A) (12V) • Bearing: Hydro Bearing Im looking at those as im try to keep costs down, as ive already spent a bit on this loop already
Last edited by Reefer86; Oct 12, 2009 at 05:19 PM. |
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#22 |
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Those red wings sound pretty good.
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#23 |
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Those red wings are very nice. Not the shoes, talking about the fans
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#24 |
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Forget to mention/ask
If your radiator is outside your case invest in a good fan controller. I got a Silverstone that has an optional PCI bracket instead of the normal 5.25 or 3.25. If your rad is inside the case then the loudness of the fans may not be as important. Having 3 120mm fans blaring along with the rest of your rig can kinda be annoying.
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#25 |
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so higher the CFM the better, obv i want to keep noise down so keep sound DBA levels down?
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