Tt Xaser Key + X-Fi Cable

[TIGR]

Anybody got an easy way to bypass a Thermaltake Xaser III lock or anyone happen to have a spare key? It's so I can open the front panel and get my X-Fi Platinum front I/O module out! It has been lost and forgotten in there for years, sadly.

Hey while we're at it, I'm missing the cable that goes from the actual sound card to the front I/O module (or "drive" or whatever you call it). That too has been missing for a long time and I recall I was looking for it a while back and it was something like either a floppy or IDE cable, but with an extra pin IIRC. So I'll be looking for a replacement for that too.

Hopefully I can blow off the dust, get it up and running again, and it's not too crappy against today's sound cards?

Edit to add: this is what I want to get out and the pins on the left side in this pic are the ones I want a cable for, to connect it to the card:



Another edit to add: I found the pic below on Google, that's the case in question and you can just see the top part of the lock I need to open, on the bottom right side of the photo, just for clarification:

[overclocking101]

you cant hack it open or anything?

[TIGR]

Originally Posted by overclocking101

you cant hack it open or anything?

I'd rather not break it. I'm looking at Tt's site and I cannot for the life of me seem to find replacement keys. I had found them way back when I first set this case aside and forgot about it, but the site seems to have changed. I just fired off a tech support request so hopefully I'll find something out there.

At any rate, this thing is a tank and I suspect hacking it open is easier said than done. Not like the locks on many cases that have little more than trinket value.

[TIGR]

Good news! Just for future reference in case anyone else needs a solution to either of these:

· Thermaltake Chassis Key Set CS-KEY01 works for the Xaser III (V1000 series) and it's $6 shipped.
· For the X-Fi Platinum, any IDE cable should work fine. All you need to do is punch out the plastic that blocks one of the pins on the connector, and beneath it will be the needed pin, which does connect all the way through. The plastic is thin and can be cut, drilled, or punched out with ease.