H20 , now 6-7 degrees warmer with new loop?

[gottistar]

Hey guys recently re-done the "loop" just last night, now according to remp-temp its running 6-7 warmer...it used to run 32-33-33-32 on idle, now im getting 37-37-38-35 any ideas?

Should rad fans be sucking upwards or downwards into PC?

It makes more sense to be sucking upwards out of PC to me , yeh?
here are the specs and a pic..

[OneMoar]

air ? fresh TIM ?
why are you worried about 5c ?

[mlee49]

Thats what you get for going pre-built kidding, jokes from the YourPCATM thread...

Usually it's air in the block, TIM/block placement, or you just had a stellar mount the first time.

Try knocking on the block to lossen up any air bubbles.

[DanishDevil]

If you want better temps, have your radiator fans set as intakes. It makes more sense because heat rises to have them as exhausts, but your radiator will be cooled by cooler air if they're intakes. Really your decision.

[gottistar]

Originally Posted by OneMoar

air ? fresh TIM ?
why are you worried about 5c ?

lol, im not OMFG 5 degrees ... it was more like out of curosity...how could the temp change when nothing has changed....

[Whilhelm]

You could try taking the CPU block off and re-applying thermal paste. I have seen variations in temperature similar to what you are seeing from re-mounting water blocks. Are the screws on the ek block all the way tightened? Perhaps there is either too much pressure or not enough pushing the block down.

[AphexDreamer]

Originally Posted by gottistar

lol, im not OMFG 5 degrees ... it was more like out of curosity...how could the temp change when nothing has changed....

Perhaps the weather is getting warmer outside? I notice a rise in temp with my hardware during summer time and then it goes lower during winter.

[phanbuey]

most likely is thermal paste and air temperature variance. Pulling air out of the case is a more stable "worst case scenario" setup. Pulling air into the case will get you 5-10C lower temps depending on what the case temps are.

Cold cathodes/blacklights do generate heat (why non-LED LCD's get hot.), so having one by your rad and another by your resevoir is probably having a minor effect as well.

[trickson]

One thing I see ( I am not sure ) but it looks like your loop needs to be redone , As I would have the pump top pushing into the WB then to the rad . Air flow would be my first guess how many fans you have on the rad ?

[DanishDevil]

Different people have differing opinions on which component should be after the pump. I'm a pump > block guy, but there are plenty of pump > rad guys here, too. I don't think it makes a huge amount of difference.

[Whilhelm]

If you look again it is going Pump > Rad > Block > Res

[lonewolf]

The setup I see here will introduce more heat as the heat coming from the block is going to the res. then to the pump then finally to the rad to get cooled. Not the optimum set up in my opinion.

[Whilhelm]

It shouldn't matter much because after a while the water temperature will reach equilibrium anyway.

[gottistar]

all good now, i switched fans to suck air out of PC from rad, then switched different brand paste (not that i think it made a diff, but hey i have a few different brands) and tightened CPU block tighter.. now i have 33.31.30.34 , back how it used to be...thanks for help

[MT Alex]

It may seem odd, but I always got higher temps with larger fluid capacity when I ran a 655. I spent quite a bit of time and effort trying to incorporate a BP 150 POM into my old loop, only to be greeted by temps that were 3 degrees higher. Same with my Jingway 1200. I special ordered a longer EK multi tube to add capacity to my built in res, and got temps about 2 degrees warmer. Both temp increases, however, were at idle. Load temps seemed to be the same, although I would speculate I didn't saturate as quickly.