![]() |
|
|
#1 |
|
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4 (0.00/day)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Help I have killed two 1950xt's and counting
I need some big help this is my 1st post so go easy?
I had a 1950 pro agp saphire with a EK water block all good then I changed my board and went to a core2 duo intel setup with a asus p5b wi-fi board. I changed the card to a 1950 xt pci and mounted the EK water block to it. Great I thought unitll I powerd up and the new system didn't post. No disply and the beep code suggested the graphics card. Weird I thought so I took the EK block off and put the standard cooler back on tested it again but stil nothing. So I RMA'd the card thinking it must have been faulty. Got the new card sent through but this time I thought I would test it first all good PC posted. Ok now I put the Ek block back on the card pluged it all back in and ARHHH!!!! no post and display. I sent an e-mail to EK Waterblocks and spoke to a guy called Eddy who said the block is compatable with the 1950 xt so that should be fine? I have put a volt meter to the copper of the waterblock when the pc is on and I get a reading of 1.2 volts can this be right? when the card is removed I can take a ohm reading between the copper block and the neutral pin on the power socket and there is a circut it is not a dead short but not insulated either. I put the factory cooler back on and put a meter on the mounting screws and they where the same reading. If I have shorted the card some where is this damage causing these readings or can someone test there card and see if this is normal. I can't risk busting another card as I don't think I will be successful returning this one? Help!!!! Please!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Graphical Hacker
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 7,478 (2.81/day)
Thanks: 798
Thanked 1,174 Times in 834 Posts
|
I am pretty sure you are not installing the cooler correctly and the card is overheating and breaking.
__________________
CPU-Z validation sig pics temporarily blocked |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
![]() |
a voltage on the waterblock means you are shorting out the card to the cooler. you either have improperly mounted the cooler or the cooler is defective. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT install that waterblock onto a new card. Send the waterblock to the company and have them check for problems.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,308 (0.51/day)
Thanks: 80
Thanked 71 Times in 64 Posts
|
Quote:
anything else you need help with?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4 (0.00/day)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Hi guys thanks for your reply’s
In hindsight it is easy to say it is obvious that the cooler doesn’t fit the card put remember I didn’t check the first card so when it didn’t work I generally thought the first card was faulty. It was not until I tested and then broke the second card it became obvious. I don’t think the cooler is faulty as I have had it fitted to a 1950 agp no problem. I am looking for any one who has one of these blocks fitted to a 1950 xt without issues. I am fairly experienced at building PC’s and can confirm the block is mounted correctly. Or can anyone confirm why the screws to the originally factory cooler when refitted shows a resistance which is not infinity on the ohm meter? Thnaks
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|