New monitor, need advice...

[psyko12]

As for hardware parts I'm not good on picking monitors, not really updated on it, coz check my rigs config on the panel, I'm still usin my 11 y/o acer CRT, which right now is giving problems for the past 2 years... The cable or something is loose and sometimes it will be all pink in color or vertical is way messed and turns itself off...

Well as far as my salary goes, I would just want a 19" LCD not wide screen, I got dizzy using 1 of those a 19" Square lcd panel would do me good, but I can't buy online so give me tips on how to choose a good 1, Imma be looking at a surplus shop for pc parts from Korea in our area... Brands don't matter as long as it's good for some years and doesn't ghost and stuff...

Any advices on what to look and check for in buying? We'll uhm what if the dealer doesn't know his stuff... What things should I look into...


EDIT: OH AND BTW,

Uhmm advice on what kind of sound set - up I could do with this onboard realtek audio, please I don't want to get a soundcard funds are limited atm... Been using monitors speakers... But when I change into an lcd panel I'll be needing a speaker...

Ty again
Thanks guys in advance....

[AphexDreamer]

"Response Time: Response time is an unusual preference and always a trade off. Typical response time (TrTf - Time rising, Time falling) refers to the time that it takes the LCD subpixel to twist from the fully "on" position to the fully "off" position and then back again. Response time has absolutely nothing to do with framerate. Pixel response times are independent of each other, and it does not take the entire screen 25ms to refresh if a monitor is labeled as a 25ms response time LCD. The time that it takes the LCD to go from black to white may be 15ms while the time that it takes the LCD to go from black back to white may be 10ms. Furthermore, your monitor is generally rendering a color that is not on end of the color spectrum. The time that it takes your LCD subpixel to twist from one half of a tone to another may be more or less than 15ms. The TrTf response time is normally a pretty useless measurement - but it makes for an easy specification in which to market LCDs."

Click these links to find out all you want to know.

http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_8.html

http://www.anandtech.com/displays/sh...spx?i=2289&p=2

Good Luck with your buy

[psyko12]

Thanks for the quick reply and links mate, I'll study those, any more suggestions guys? And btw is LCD panel less or more on power usage? Compared to CRT's

[Thermopylae_480]

I would try not to go below a 1:500 contrast ratio. I would recommend 1:700 or 1:1000 if you have the money.

[psyko12]

@Thermo, how could I tell those? Uhmm would it be listed on the panels specs or something? I'm totally new to LCD buying sorry for the noobness

[OnBoard]

Originally Posted by psyko12

Thanks for the quick reply and links mate, I'll study those, any more suggestions guys? And btw is LCD panel less or more on power usage? Compared to CRT's

Way less power usage and heat and desk space used =) For gaming I can recommend my LCD, you'll find plenty of reviews, as it was THE LCD when it game out. Little back light bleeding on top&bottonm (you'll notice those against black background). Blacks could be improved, but it's the same for all TN panels. You're not going for wide, so I assume you won't be using it for movie watching, so shouldn't be a problem.

No ghosting, excellent colors, little color banding (again, no gaming monitor is full color, if you see a color fade, like this http://www.house.gov/fossella/welcom1.jpg you'll see horizontal stripes on LCD) You can always go for PVA panels (more expensive and really expensive if you want a 8ms gaming usable), but they are full color and better blacks.

There are drawbacks in LCDs and that is why a few still want CRT, but the goods outhweight the bad. You'll get a nice sharp picture on top of previous mentioned things and you'll never go back to CRT one you've looked LCD for a while.

Also remember to buy one with a DVI connector. Only VGA connector ones are cheaper (because DVI ones are considered television and have a tax) but it's silly to transform a digital signal back to analog and depending on LCD used DVI can reproduce sharper picture. Then there is the fact that you'll need a powerful graphics card, as 1280x1024 is the only usable resolution (native on 19" LCD). Anything else than the native resolution will produce a blurry picture and it looks the same (or worse) than a CRT.

Wonder if 1024x768 was maximum resolution on your old CRT, but if you can put 1280x960 it will give you an idea how your favorite games will run with the new display. Maybe I should wrap it up, all I'll be writing whole day :P Anyways, read almost everything when I bought my previous LCD, 2 weeks of reviews/articles&stuff about CRT/LCD differences and what to expect and how they work. When I got this took "just" a week with different reviews and different panel types, now that the prices were down for other than TN too. Point I'm trying to make, read a lot, it'll get your head spinning, but it's better to know what not to get than to spend 200€+ on something that is not so great. Hope it helped a bit

[OnBoard]

Originally Posted by psyko12

@Thermo, how could I tell those? Uhmm would it be listed on the panels specs or something? I'm totally new to LCD buying sorry for the noobness

Yes they are in the specs. Now there is a new trend to say a dynamic contrast ratio, don't believe those values. They are a marketing gimmick and NO TN panel is over 1000:1. Look in the specs and it should say something like this: Contrast Ratio 700:1 (typ), 2000:1 (DCR).

DRC is the Dynamic Contrast Ratio that they'll advertise and that 700:1 is the real value, that works for every image coming out of the LCD. I'm not saying they don't improve the contrast ratio, but no way a 2000:1 DRC panel will beat a true 1500:1 PVA panel.

Also look for brightness value, something like this: Brightness 300 cd/m2 (typ). Anything over 300 is too much and it will literaly burn your eyes. If it's too high you can't get the panel dark enough to use in dark/black room. If you use your display in a fully lit room, or fluorescent light, then there is no problem, just tune the brightness down. Just don't wonder why it doesn't work, like it used to on a CRT. If you turn down just brightness on a LCD the picture doesn't go darker really that much. You have to weak both contrast and brightness. Same goes if you want to see dark areas by turning up brightness like you would on a CRT, doesn't work either. Picture just gets brighter, but dark areas stay dark

You've used 11years that previous monitor, hopefully you don't expect LCD to last that long :P Backlight gets weaker as time goes by and you'll lose brightness=better for eyes, but once it wears out too much, it will become useless. If I remember correctly the time informed is a half-life (like the example viewsonic display Light Source Long life, 40,000 hrs. (typ)). So it takes 40000 hours to get to 150 cd/m2. That is 4½ years display on nonstop. 150 cd/m2 is not bad at all since the recommended luminance for graphics work is 110-130 cd/m2. That meas that you have to wait 4½years to get it to a good luminance level ;D

So the brightness can't be too high (for eyes, or you'll get a headache), or too low for the longevity of the panel. I wouldn't buy anything under 250 cd/m2 or over 400 cd/m2. Anything that say ULTRABRIGHT, don't buy, every LCD is already bright and I mean more bright than any CRT with full brightness. Mine is @ 30% contrast and @ 10% brightness (very low lit room) and this is a 650:1 / 270 cd/m2 display.

Still I'm forgetting a lot of things to say, but these should get you started

[OnBoard]

Originally Posted by psyko12

EDIT: OH AND BTW,

Uhmm advice on what kind of sound set - up I could do with this onboard realtek audio, please I don't want to get a soundcard funds are limited atm... Been using monitors speakers... But when I change into an lcd panel I'll be needing a speaker...

Ty again
Thanks guys in advance....

Going to a LCD doesn't mean you have to by speakers, there are models with built in ones

http://www.viewsonic.com/products/lc...32wm/index.htm

That is basically a new version of mine with speakers. Not that LCD speakers are any good () but as you already use ones in monitor, they could do for you. You'll miss out on bass, but they aren't any extra, so you can try if the sound is adequate.

I my self use headphones all the time, so that is a good sounding cheap option. I'd think the best thing to get would be a 2.1 speaker system, if you don't like wearing headphones and monitor speakers wont do. Those are in every store and with a wide price range. Subwoofer helps out wit deep sounds, they are not Hi-Fi, but beat every monitor speakers (and even bigger ones) easily. There are very stylish versions too to go with your new LCD display. Look for a one that has wooden subwoofer, blastic ones will rattle.

Really this is my last post, getting hungry writing so much

[psyko12]

Originally Posted by OnBoard

Wonder if 1024x768 was maximum resolution on your old CRT

Yep, It can, about the on board sound, I think the soundmax drivers can configure the 3 ports line in line out and mic to become inputs for center/woofer, left and right... Oh well if all fails I might as well look into some good headphones, Does an altec headset good? Thats what I see on our mall, mostly and others are Phillips but I think those are for audiophiles.... And thanks for writing so much information, you guys have been so helpful... I'm moving out of stone age!!! lol well kind of.. My rig still has antique parts

[peach1971]

THG suggests ViewSonic VP930 here > http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/03/...cd_collection/

[OnBoard]

Originally Posted by psyko12

Yep, It can, about the on board sound, I think the soundmax drivers can configure the 3 ports line in line out and mic to become inputs for center/woofer, left and right... Oh well if all fails I might as well look into some good headphones, Does an altec headset good? Thats what I see on our mall, mostly and others are Phillips but I think those are for audiophiles.... And thanks for writing so much information, you guys have been so helpful... I'm moving out of stone age!!! lol well kind of.. My rig still has antique parts

2.1 speakers don't need woofer plug, the subwoofer is just used to produce the low sounds (low end is directed to it and highs go to satellites). You have to go to a 4.1 or more system to need more than the regular green output.

For headphones, philips are fine and cheap models for the general public too. I have a old set of Philips SBC-HP200 http://www.accessorystore.co.uk/acat...eadphones.html and they sound good. Served me for many years. Only downside for the cheap price is the headthingy that doesn't stay in place, so it's tape ftw!

Current ones are Sony's MDR-XD200 http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=10871 Great and cheap (~25€) headphones. Those should be quite easy to find too. Why I bought these was light weight, low frequency range the strong 40mm neodymium magnet and a really long cord (3,5M), so I don't need an extension cable when watching movies. Oh and the cord is nice and thin only from other side, close as you can go without being wireless (have on of those too with infrared and the hiss is awful).

Your welcome for the information, like to give some back as I've got my self really good info from all the reviews and user input on various parts before purchase

instead of a normal monitor, save up a grand and get a 3d one. i'd do it if i could get shipping for it.