paulieg's first watercooling adventure, help wanted!

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by DaMulta

U used the tubes that leak hard core!!!!

But they don't bend very easy, I liked using them just beware.

I've put teflon tape around all of the fittings, and the tubes are going to be replaced very soon. How does everyone feel about compression fittings? Oh, and all constructive criticism is welcome!

[tigger]

The bp compression fittings are very nice,i'm considering trying them myself,though it will cost me £35($70ish) for enough to do my loop.I'm running my loop with a t-line now,its pretty good,temps are exactly the same with a res.

[Wile E]

Originally Posted by Paulieg

I've put teflon tape around all of the fittings, and the tubes are going to be replaced very soon. How does everyone feel about compression fittings? Oh, and all constructive criticism is welcome!

Most compression fittings hamper flow a little. If you want good fittings, I'd just go with the bitspower fittings all around, and use stainless steel worm-drive clamps.

Also, I wouldn't personally use the reinforced 1/2 ID tubing. The ID actually tends to be a hair larger than 1/2", and can be a pain to keep from leaking. I would just use plain old clear vinyl tubing. Super cheap and effective. If you want a nice tight seal, use 7/16" ID tubing. It'll squeeze onto 1/2" fittings nice and tight. So tight in fact, that most of the time it won't leak, even without clamps (but still use the clamps. lol)

Your loop order is fine. I prefer putting the rad just before the res, but others say to do it the way you have it. Doesn't really make a whole lot of difference.

[Whilhelm]

Really nice job for your first watercooling adventure. You kept the tube lengths to the minimum and the layout is very good. I originally planned on using tubing like that but it was way too stiff and difficult to work with. If you intend in replacing it and the fittings I would say don't bother with compressions because they are way too much money once you add them all up. I would say 7/16th masterclear with either EK, Bitspower or Danger Den 1/2" highflows would be the cheapest setup that would give you the best flow and the tightest seal. I can vouch for the masterclear stuff it is cheap flexible and lasts pretty well.

Other than that I would say it looks sweet and great job .

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by Wile E

Most compression fittings hamper flow a little. If you want good fittings, I'd just go with the bitspower fittings all around, and use stainless steel worm-drive clamps.

Also, I wouldn't personally use the reinforced 1/2 ID tubing. The ID actually tends to be a hair larger than 1/2", and can be a pain to keep from leaking. I would just use plain old clear vinyl tubing. Super cheap and effective. If you want a nice tight seal, use 7/16" ID tubing. It'll squeeze onto 1/2" fittings nice and tight. So tight in fact, that most of the time it won't leak, even without clamps (but still use the clamps. lol)

Your loop order is fine. I prefer putting the rad just before the res, but others say to do it the way you have it. Doesn't really make a whole lot of difference.

I don't really have the option to move to 1/2" fittings, unless I want to replace the Asus NB Fusion block on my Maximus Formula. There is no way to to replace the NB barbs They are built right into the block (I'm not interested in using adapters which seem to create more leak potential). So, I'm really just looking for better 3/8" barbs and tubing.

Cyberdruid is recommending these EK fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21944

[tigger]

barbs-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=724
or
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=683

Tubing-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=686

tigger

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by tigger

barbs-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=724
or
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=683

Tubing-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=686

tigger

From the advice I'm receiving, I'm probably going to stick with traditional barbs, either the EK's or Fat boys.

[tigger]

I'm using mostly ek barbs,1/2" though.

[Whilhelm]

If you want to go to 1/2" barbs I have a swiftech MCW30 that I used on the NB and a replacement SB heatsink if you are interested.

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by Whilhelm

If you want to go to 1/2" barbs I have a swiftech MCW30 that I used on the NB and a replacement SB heatsink if you are interested.

Thanks for the offer man. I think I'll wait awhile before I dive any deeper into this. I'll just enjoy my loop for awhile!

[lucasweir]

how much did your cpu and NB temps fall?

[Paulieg]

I traded my Asus Maximus, and now have a DFI x48. So, I'm reworking my WC loop. This time I've decided to mount my rad to the bottom, and move the psu to the top. I've also moved the pump to the bottom of the HDD bays. I cracked my micro res, but I'm planning to mount a new res a 5 1/4" bay or in the bottom of the 5 1/4" bays w/ double sided tape. Thoughts on what res to get? It needs to be fairly small.



Cable management comes later.

[Paulieg]

Newtekie1 suggested that instead of a new res, that it would be easier to add a T Line instead. Anyone have thoughts on this?

[Sonido]

I'm guessing you went against the NB loop for now?

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by Sonido

I'm guessing you went against the NB loop for now?

Yeah, I don't have a NB block right now. That will come later.

[Hayder_Master]

see this maybe got some tips from it
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/

[Wile E]

Originally Posted by Paulieg

Newtekie1 suggested that instead of a new res, that it would be easier to add a T Line instead. Anyone have thoughts on this?

T lines are a bit harder to bleed. I prefer using a res, personally.

[tigger]

I had mine on a t-line before i put my xspc restop back on,and it took nearly 2 days to bleed the air out of the t-line,and a couple of hours to bleed with the res top.

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by tigger

I had mine on a t-line before i put my xspc restop back on,and it took nearly 2 days to bleed the air out of the t-line,and a couple of hours to bleed with the res top.

I think I'm going to stick with a res. I just think it looks better, and less of a hassle to bleed it.

[CyberDruid]

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22012

PPC used to have a "Tanky" branded acrylic Reservoir $10 cheaper than this with no brass inserts for the screws. I have not used XSPC stuff but I have used a number of these type of bay reservoirs.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekmure2.html

I have used lots of the EK 250 cylinder reservoirs. The make a shorter 150mm one too. The base has two side mounted ports which will often eliminate a tight bend and one bottom mounted port which can be a drain or a supply to the pump.

Rather than choose between reservoir and T Line I use both Seriously. And I usually use a Female-to-Female G-1/4 fitting to join the pump and res to eliminate one more tube. But the idea is you run the T line to the top of the case above the EK res and use a DD Delrin FilPort and now you do not have to open the case or undo the mounting screws or leave extra slack in the lopp to access the fill on the reservoir. Plus it bleeds really really fast. You simply leave the filport uncapped with some fluid in the line and air will pass up the line.

The clips that hold the cylinder can be mounted internally where you now have your 24 pin power cable. The FilPort can be located directly above in the top panel. The DB-1 pump (if that is what I see there) can be attached directly to the res and resting on a Gel Pad or a patch of velcro to absorb the sound.

So paulie, any updates on this new res situation?

I hope you realise your the one thats making me spend £150 odd on a WC loop myself, yours looked so good i just had to write up some plans

[p_o_s_pc]

Originally Posted by Wile E

I alway run res>pump>cpu>rad>res.

In my old setup, I had the Rad front mounted on my Stacker, but mostly, I wanted to show you my pump and res setup, you can put your rad wherever it fits best.

http://img.techpowerup.org/070812/WileE2900.jpg

The pump is bolted to the floor of my case, and the res is bolted to the side of the drive bays, slightly higher than the pump.

thats sexy and gave me an idea for my case thank you

[cdawall]

i just got dual magicool 150mL res's off XS have you looked at just getting a used one?

[Paulieg]

Originally Posted by cdawall

i just got dual magicool 150mL res's off XS have you looked at just getting a used one?

I bought a DD 5.25 drive bay res from HET. I also had a friend here at TPU send me another Micro Res for free all the way from Scotland (you know who you are). I think I like the micro res better. It may sound weird, but the pump seems quieter when I use the Micro res.

[CyberDruid]

IT's quite possible. Gabe put a lot of thought into that design. I modded several by porting the bottom and retapping them to G-1/4 (1/4BSPP). I like to use about a 10" fill tube on the top port and I like to tap the bottom and use a short run direct to the pump inlet. The sideports I use the bottom for a return and just capoff the other. That little angled piece in there had one design flaw that Gabe has since corrected...it tends to trap a bubbleof air. He now makes them with alittle hole there to let the air up and out and () he now ports thebottom and has the ports tapped G-1/4.

Hmmmm.