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$1100-$1400 to build / buy a computer

Discussion in 'System Builder's Advice' started by Reynardin, Jun 13, 2008.

  1. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    you didnt order until hours after I posted my build for you, the case was in it (scroll back) I took everything into consideration for you air flow, temperature, controller. you should try and sell it $20 shipped and buy a 590.

    - Christine
     
  2. Reynardin New Member

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    I'll see..
     
  3. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    I may be a woman but I have a bachelors in computer science, dropped out my 2nd/3rd year into my masters where I majored in reverse engineering have my mcse, a+, mcts and ccna!

    i'm amazed I remember anything about heatsinks though, I have been on water for the last 6 years :p

    - Christine
     
  4. intel igent

    intel igent New Member

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    so no modding then?
     
  5. Reynardin New Member

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    unless it's a simple one.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    can you turn the lights on, take a picture of the window or better yet with side panel off. want to see inside.

    - Christine
     
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  7. Reynardin New Member

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    bad camera, one sec, i'll find a better one.

    will post a better pic in maybe 10 mins or so.
     
  8. Reynardin New Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    ok, you could probably dremel out a hole for a 120mm fan at the top and probably add another 120mm to the other side of the Xigmatek infact you should purchase 2 new fans the one that comes with it probably isn't very good until then change your rear fan to intake.

    so you would have rear pull, side pull, right side xigmatek pull, left side xigmatek (top, towards power supply) push, top push. sounds right :p

    - Christine
     
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  10. Reynardin New Member

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    so right now, I make the side fan push out, the top fan out, and the back one in?

    EDIT: I'm probably gonna have to re-apply the thermal compound, because it isn't doing its job very well
    right now.

    Also, I'm going to have to wait on getting the extra fans.
     
  11. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    push = exhaust, pull = intake.

    what you have right now is side pull and rear push. change the rear (back) to pull. you should also experiment with the fan on the Xigmatek to see if push or pull works better (can make 1-3'c difference) you could probably find out in a Xigmatek review through google.

    - Christine
     
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  12. Reynardin New Member

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    hm ok, although the way that they cpu cooler was made, it is VERY hard to reverse. The fan is held on the rifle cooling by 4 rubber pieces which lock into place and are almost impossible to put in, let alone take out.
    I was thinking of reversing the cpu cooler, but that doesn't work because the "foiler" which pushes the air down onto the mobo after the fan blows it through is held in place by gravity.

    I'll switch the fans around now, and probably get back in an hour or so.
     
  13. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    yes they are called vibration dampening grommets. they should be removeable.

    - Christine
     
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  14. Reynardin New Member

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    yea, but it's SO friggin hard. I had to drill the holes in the fan bigger because one of the rubber pieces ripped in half. I may be able to reverse it, but I'd get so frustrated that I'd just as likely break the cooler as reverse the fan.

    Did I wire it all-right?

    I haven't switched the fans around yet, but here's a status report:
    Computer started up with the CPU around 56-60C, but after about 30 mins, it lowered to 38-41, which is actually about 6C better than what I was getting before I spread the thermal compound.

    I'm going to do what you suggested with the fans, let it run for a bit, and then post the results.
     
  15. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    not much talk if changing the fan to exhaust is helpful just push-pull talk (2 fans, one intaking the other exhausting) don't worry about it for now just change the rear fan. did you clean it properly? don't use too much and remember you have to let the thermal compound burn in.

    - Christine
     
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  16. Reynardin New Member

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    I don't think that I cleaned it properly, so I'm going to just go ahead and redo the whole process.

    The fan change didn't make that large of a difference, but it made the drop in temp when my computer started up much faster.
     
  17. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    some Lian Li models use rear intake and usually people rave about it but I assume your going to want to buy a new case. nice thing about the Centurion 590 is it holds 8 fans :)

    to clean the processor you can use a tek cloth or qtips use isopropanol, isopropyl (pharmacy) arctic silver remover or acetone (nail polish remover)

    - Christine
     
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  18. Reynardin New Member

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    If I don't use any liquids, will it not clean properly?
     
  19. Reynardin New Member

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    Ok, before I used a piece of cloth to wipe all the thermal compound off of the CPU and the heatsink, I ran Orthos, and my computer shut off automatically due to the heat.

    After that, I completely redid the thermal compound, correctly this time, and I'm testing it out now.
    Everest is showing 38-40C CPU temp, CPU core #1 temp as ~55, and core #2 as 55.
    Chipset is showing 46C, PWN as 41C.

    better than before.

    RealTemp is showing between 33 and 37 currently, usually 34.

    Does anybody know which is more accurate? I'd love to believe the RealTemp one, but it was showing around 60C when my computer shut down, and it automatically does that at 80C

    I haven't run Orthos yet to check the load temp, but I think I'm going to let it burn in first.

    After the compound properly "burns in", should it be good?
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008
  20. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    oh yeah I forgot coffee filters work for cleaning too. you shouldn't use water even though it's not very conductive it won't work.

    - Christine
     
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  21. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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    RealTemp. it will take about 7 days before I would commit to any temps.

    PS, oh look I reached 1000 post because of you :p

    - Christine
     
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  22. Reynardin New Member

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    hm, ok.
    I'm just a bit skeptical about realtemp because my computer shut off far too soon if you go by realtemp's readings

    And, gratz =).

    why are the readings of Everest so much higher than RealTemp's?
     
  23. calvary1980

    calvary1980 New Member

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  24. Reynardin New Member

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    I think that my cooler may not be completely flush with the CPU. I'll have to take the fan off later and make sure all the pins are in all the way (fan makes it hard to do so).
    Ok, my previous Realtemp temps were false, I had the TJ max at 85 for some reason, when the TJ max is at 95, it's showing 46C low when idle, 62C high when on a high load

    I'm going to get some sleep now.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008
  25. Reynardin New Member

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    OK, right now I'm trying to calibrate RealTemp, does anyone know how to change the CPU voltage in the bios which comes with my bloodiron mobo?

    EDIT: i think I'm just going to forget about calibrating RealTemp, it's too big a pain. What is a good "distance to TJ max" in RealTemp on high load?
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008

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