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A Beginner's Guide to Overclocking

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by xvi, Jan 3, 2007.

  1. xvi

    xvi

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    The clock generator depends on the motherboard. You could try using ClockGen to change it from Windows. Most popular motherboards are supported. If you go too far, your computer will freeze. When you reset the computer, your FSB will be back to normal.

    But whatever you do, don't unplug the computer and take out the battery for 10 seconds (and put it back in) because that won't reset the BIOS and it won't clear the password and it won't let you change the FSB. :rolleyes:
    (If you're going to play around in the BIOS, make sure that you're really careful with what you change. These values won't reset when the computer restarts. If you change something and the computer won't turn on (and it might beep a lot too), unplug all the cables and pull the battery out again. The biggest thing you should absolutely not change is any voltages. Everything else shouldn't damage the computer. Also, your parents will know you've reset the BIOS if they try to go in it and find that there isn't a password.)

    Although you haven't told me much, it's probably your memory. Keep in mind that it could also be your processor. My Corsair XMS memory won't do over 207 at their rated 2-3-2-8 no matter how many volts I throw at it. I have to run them at 3-3-3-8 which lets me bring my FSB up around 240. I haven't tried 2.5-3-3-8 yet.

    If your motherboard will let you set a memory divider, set the divider to 5/6 (or 166MHz) and try overclocking again. If you can't get a higher overclock, then your memory is probably not to blame. If you can get a higher overclock, you could try raising your latencies or keep the divider.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  2. freeboy

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    I am running an asus as 8 mobo, xp, 2 gig of Centron ram 2x1gig, a amd 64fx 60 proc.
    500 wats pwr from an ultra. I just brought it to 210 by dropping to 100 Mgh and cranking up the latencies and volts, 2.8 ddr and 1.375 cpu. I do not have a bios "devider" but is not that the same as changing the speed of the chips down to 16 133 or 100?
    my cpu temp also went up considerably.
    Ok, dropped everything but the multiplier back to stck, looks like a good clean 1000 200 3338 14 with no change in volts. 400 on the chipps 200 is the setting! I was surprised buyt the 2.8 ghz until I looked and saw the multi still at 14! So does this point to a cpu issue or a mobo issue aor a chip issue? I think that at these setting running cool and stable.. seems a mobo issue.. odd though the mobo temps where pretty low? But what do I know, I started this only a few days ago! thanks all.
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2007
  3. xvi

    xvi

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    Okay. ClockGen should support that.
    Yep. That's the divider. Try the "166" option.
    Increasing your voltage will do that.
    Double Data Rate. 200 MHz FSB = DDR-400
    Welll, some motherboards might not be able to handle anything over a certain FSB. Asus should be a pretty good brand to go with, though. What temperatures are you getting? You shouldn't be going over 55c. 60c is the absolute maximum you should be pushing.

    Set everything to stock then set your memory to the "166" setting and try pushing up your FSB again. If it doesn't work, then it's not your memory. Set your memory back to stock and lower your CPU multiplier and try pushing up your FSB. If that doesn't work, it's not your processor. If neither of those do anything, check and make sure you have a PCI/AGP lock set. You could also try setting your CPU multiplier up a notch. If that works, your processor should be good. If it doesn't work, it might just be disabled and not mean anything.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  4. freeboy

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    ok the multi works see above.. will try your suggestions thanks ...
    I am trying to keep temps below 50c per another thread.. is that too low? (on the cpu)
    ok,, all at stock save the divider(166) and fsb up to 210 looks good. failed after 220 which was good at 225fsb
    back to stock, dropped multi to twelve, have reached 225fsb.. does that mean the problem is the proc? the post above seem qiurky .. but like I said I am a super noob
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2007
  5. freeboy

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    what is a pci-e lock set?
  6. xvi

    xvi

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    The lower your CPU temps the better. Lower temps make things last longer.

    A PCI/AGP lock will make sure the FSB for the PCI/AGP cards does not change when you change your system FSB. For example, your PCI cards run at 33 MHz and AGP at 66 MHz. When you overclock, old motherboards will overclock your PCI and AGP cards too. Newer motherboards will lock the PCI/AGP card's frequencies so they're not affected by the overclock.

    This would be good to add to the guide, come to think of it.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  7. freeboy

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    ok, I now am at 235 and lower multi to twelve.. so was my problem before that I did not use the auto set for volts and tried to use the multi a 14?.. seems the temps are cool too, I will set all to stck, then raise it and see
  8. MrSeanKon

    MrSeanKon New Member

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    Yes you are right.
    I agree :toast:
    For further reading to all overclockers Must have programs and links for overclockers here
    I agree but this is a general approach in the beggining.
    AMD crash temperature in OcBible explains this cos I have made a huge AMD database.
    But this procedure is for advanced overclockers.
    IMHO the thread helps :)
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2007
  9. freeboy

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    ok, what does this all mean then?
    I was able to go up on teh FSB to 220 by changingthe devider.
    I was ablle to go to 235 by lowering the multi to 12
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2007
  10. freeboy

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    best with multiple considerations, stable with all at stock 1 divider, 13 multi 1000
    at 220 fsb. Seems the mem is holding up, also cranked the volts.
  11. MrSeanKon

    MrSeanKon New Member

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    freeboy you mess me. I am not the creator of this thread but I will try to help you.
    I think you don't know some of the basics ----> download Guidemania and you should post more info for your problem.
    12*235=2820 MHz thus your CPU limit seems to be around 2.8GHz.
    But are you sure that your RAM is stable there???
    What's your timings and Vdimm??
    You can increase Vcore but avoid high temps (especially above 50 Celsius).
  12. freeboy

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    I am stable in the 220 fsb range at 13 multi on my sys amd 64 fx 60
    asus mobo 2gig ram.. only able to increase fsb by lowering the multiplier to twelve. changing the timings 2.5 337 or 3338 higher had no noticable effects.I my memory stable, passes sandra burn in and I am using 60 c as my do not pass temp, pushed 48-50 in burn in.
    So changing the htfrom 1000 to 800 no effects. changing the ration, ie 166 133 on the chips settigs in bios does not add higher fsb. The only way I have reached past 230 fsb is the lowering of the cpu multiplier. I have an old version asus bord that supports pci e. But I think my bottleneck is my board. thanks any insights welcom, temps now stable , low thirty c rang at idle and mid forties under game stress all stock settings for htt and chips fsb at 220 and volts increased to chips and cpu. The one item I could not verify was the freq lock mentioned above for the pci e card. Bios settings for this are "auto", "33" and some higher ones, I am leaving it on auto.
    If anyone knows a way past my mobo, or other issue to add fsb speed that would be great, I am sure the cpu will push 3000 3100 range, and the chips seem to be ok, although I know of know way to directly test them. I did as instructed above without clear results.
    Fyi my volts for the cpu are limited in theBios to 1.4 cranked the mem to 2.9 though
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2007
  13. xvi

    xvi

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    Did you have your memory divider enabled when you lowered the multiplier? That actually wouldn't make much sense if you didn't. It sounds like your memory is the first thing holding you back and your processor is the second thing. You might just have a bad processor.

    Ah. So it sounds like it's your processor. You might just have a bad one. Better luck next time.
    Most newer boards lock it automatically. One way you could check is to overclock your computer slightly and load up ClockGen in Windows and check the frequencies in there. If they're off, you know it's not locked. You could always try setting it to "33".
    Crunching for Team TPU
  14. freeboy

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    so what exactluy is happening when my very cool mobo and cpu will not boot?(from oc) Is it failing some sort of self check?
  15. xvi

    xvi

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    Basically. Every time your computer boots, it performs a POST (Power On Self Test). The result of that test is reported with a BIOS beep code. A single, short beep means that everything is OK. Any beep code besides that means the POST completed with errors. No beep (and no video usually) means that the POST did not complete at all.

    When your computer is pushed past it's limits, it starts mixing up it's 1's and 0's. That's why you'll sometimes see a Blue Screen Of Death (BSOD) when your computer crashes. Too many 1's and 0's got themselves jumbled up and it caused a ton of errors. Windows decided to shut itself down to protect your computer (and loose all your work). It's also why the POST won't complete.

    Some motherboards (such as my DFI LanParty UT) will automatically reset themselves after a failed POST and will boot again at normal settings. The BIOS will have all your old settings in it so you can decrease your FSB and try again. I'm not sure how many boards do this.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  16. Kneichion New Member

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    Overclocking

    Hi All, i have been in IT for many years, Its time for me to take that next step Overclocking.
    I have just printed off the above and will read carefully.
    What i have found so far is an awful amount of assumtion that you know what things mean and even worse abriviations.
    My new computer is sitting next to me awaiting its new power supply, Hmm we we learn, My new Old Zalman dosent have the power or the plugs to boot up my New Asus Crosshair, So the Brand new Coolermaster 850pro should be with me tommorrow, Its going to be drafty with the NZXT Zero Case with all the many fans. I have gone for an AMD Dual core 5000.
    2g of OCz 800mg DDR2. Asus EN7900GS PCI-16. all Drives are Sata 2. And Zalman clooler flowers. First Job is get it running stable then look at how to safely overclock.
    I would like to take the 2600 cpu to a 3G.
    My objective its for the system to keep up with what i am doing, fast as possible, i dont have any great graphic loads yet but some video edding at some point.
    So all being well the birth of a new machine tommorrow if the Coolermaster 850 pro turns up.
    So far i have read the manual for the crosshair back to front, I havent a clue with most the settings, I need a manual to explain what they do and why they are needed.

    To be fair i have to read what looks excellent above before i ask any questions.
    What puzzels me is the board is rated at 2000mhz yet in over clocking it talks about 365.
    Still let me read and try and understand, I need to get my head round the maths.
    As i said my target is 3g is that too much? from a 266 dual core X2 64 cpu?
    In the mean time, any links or advice would be welcome.
    :toast:
  17. xvi

    xvi

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    Sorry! I tried to keep most abbreviations out of it (or at least keep them explained).
    Remember that usually an abbreviation is typed out then abbreviated in parenthesis.
    Come to think of it, I'll add a vocabulary section. (It's bold so I'll easily see it later)

    The 2,000 MHz you're thinking about is the HyperTransport Link speed. Your processor's FSB is most likely going to be around 200 or 266 FSB. Remember that we have a HyperTransport Multiplier that brings this up to 2,000 MHz. I'm not familiar with the Socket AM2 Athlon series, but I can only assume they run at 266 FSB (Nevermind, you just said it above).

    As for your question about how far you can expect to overclock, I've heard that most people expect about 15% extra out of most processors. I was able to get nearly 20% on my Socket 754 Sempron. I was able to add 400 MHz to my base of 2.0 GHz. On my roommate's Sempron (My old Sempron), I was able to add a little over 600 MHz.
    To answer your question directly, I would expect about 400 MHz extra out of your Athlons and wouldn't be surprised to see them higher. Check the extreme overclocking competitions to see some lucky people with lucky processors. You could probably aim somewhere around there.
    I was worried that your memory would hold you back, but OCz is a good brand to go with. Besides, it doesn't look like you went with the cheap stuff. You should be good to go.

    I'll look over the guide for any unexplained terminology. I'm making a mental list of things to change and I'll give it a good revision when I have a little more time on my hands (It's my mother's birthday tomorrow. No time then!)
    Crunching for Team TPU
  18. Kneichion New Member

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    Urgent Help needed

    Thank you for your last post, all is helpul. I am wiser reading the clocking.
    I wont go into the crosshair South and north settings on the crosshair. Humm

    I had a form for years and this probably isnt the place to ask, so bare with me please.
    I got to this forum Via the article i read.

    Same spec almost, and it said i could not install the SATA but with experience got round it.

    I wont go into what i have had to do today a whole day.

    Keeping in simple, I have a brand new SATA 2 300g rate, formatted installed the F6 drivers Via the DVD (Not CD rom) fun when your stripping down your old PC.
    To a Floppy, installed and when it came to run the XP i had the old NTLDR missing crap?
    I had this on my old system thats why i always used an IDE drive to boot from.
    I cant belive in this age and all 100% new A list components that i have had to spend a whole day, useing every trick i know just to get a boot from WIN XP.
    In the end i have had to use my old IDE drive just to get this post up.

    For goodness sake why will it not take a SATA drive for a boot drive, why keep loosing the NTldr file, had my old machine for 5 years, in 2007 why has it not changed???

    All my install files have come up with FATAL error messages. Not very good when you have spent $2000 on all new components beliving you will fix all the old problems, only for them to be all the same.
    I cant blame the hardware as its all brand new??

    Not even got to the clocking yet!

    Please some one advise how i can get a SATA drive Working on the crosshair, Its a brand new 250g SATA 2 drive, USed Crosshair to make the Floppy for the drivers.
    So far the system is running very badly as bad as the old computer.
    Not a happy bunny today, I know i will crack it, but need some wise words.
    :mad: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
  19. freeboy

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    Continuing on my posts from above..

    Couldthe issue be not a bad cpu but under vot? as my mobo litmits v to 1.4?
  20. xvi

    xvi

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    It's odd that it only limits you to 1.4 volts. What's the stock voltage? Does it give you the option to add voltage in percentage? For example, 1.4 volts and then a setting saying "VID * 110%". From what I understand, this means 1.4 volts idle and 1.54 volts under load, although from what I've seen, it simply adds the 110% no matter what.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  21. xvi

    xvi

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    Hmm.. This is a problem with the motherboard or hard drive specifically so I don't think I'll be able to answer it. I'll try, though.

    Are you using the same Windows XP disk to install? Try borrowing a friends CD and use your own serial number/CD Key.
    Did you have any other hard drives in your computer? Any that you took out? Any external drives?
    I had a similar problem. I had a USB flash drive plugged in to my computer when I installed Windows XP last time. Windows put the NTLDR, and other system files on the USB drive, and installed Windows on to my hard drive (even though I had selected the hard drive). When I removed the USB drive, I could no longer boot since NTLDR was now gone.
    When installing Windows XP, I highly recommend that you unplug any extra flash drives, flash cards, external hard drives, and internal hard drives.. except the one you're installing Windows on. This will make sure both NTLDR and the Windows folder are installed to the correct locations.

    Windows will look at the boot priorities of your computer and install NTLDR and other similar files to the first boot drive. SATA drives often come last. If you have any PATA (aka: IDE) drives, Windows will see those first and install NTLDR to the first drive on the list. The order goes something like this.

    1: USB
    2: IDE/PATA
    3: SATA (and SATA II)
    4: SCSI
    5: RAID
    6: Anything that you had to install drivers from a floppy for. (I think)
    (USB might come second or third. I'm not sure. I know it's before RAID, though. Especially when you have to install your own drivers.)

    And tell me if I understand you correctly. You had an old computer that would loose the NTLDR file after a while, and now you're having the same problem?
    If this doesn't answer your question, it may be a software problem. Even if it's not, it would be better to ask this in a different section of the forum. Good luck!
    Crunching for Team TPU
  22. freeboy

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    yep, no setting other than "manual" or auto.. the auto overclock SUX,
    manual no other volts modifier..and since it is such a cheap old board, bios 2005 I was hoping ot find a new bios or other fix, I am sure in my own mind it is a mobo issue.. that 1.4 thing if nothing else.
    It is a asus A8S-x 939 pci-e board. Anybody know of any bettter board for reletively cheap?
    Must use ddr as I have 2 duel channel 1 gig sticks?
    Or some way to tweek an asus BIOS
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2007
  23. Kneichion New Member

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    Problems

    I have a huge experience of computers and for my sins worked in a corporate company looking after 18 units accross a campus. Stress we wont go there lol

    I didnt have any problems with my old pc as i used an IDE as i could not get sata drives to boot, same problem as i have now.

    I set the bios to standard install and it let me put in my old boot drive with XP. Its all messed up tho, so next i try the above and remove all the other hard drives as i have loads.
    It was a work of art wiring up this system. Normal PC's i do all the time and is easy.
    My computer is never simple.

    I always manage to find a way around things some how, going to do a search on the net see if i can find any articles on SATA problems with ASUS boards. :confused:

    One thing i have had a brief play with is the AI Nos, very simple to play with and when it over clocks the machine it comes alive and gives the kind of responce i am looking for, I am not the fastest person out there, but i do want the comp to keep up with me.
    I over clocked it to over 3g with out a problem at all, so its looking hopefull.
    The DDR2 OCz ram overclocked again not a sniff of a problem it came up as 5.5.5.15 wich i belive may be good, still learning, Not played with Volts yet.
    First job is to get a system working sharp and clean.
    So lets see how things go, I hope its not another stress filled day.
    Anyway many thanks for your help :toast:
  24. MrSeanKon

    MrSeanKon New Member

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    Man don't be confused it is a total different the burn-in process and system stability.
    You must check your system using e.g. SuperPi 32M (not very sensitive for Intel CPUs but good for RAM) or Prime95/StressPrime 2004, OCCT S&M (very good for AMD owners).
    You may post some screen captures of your BIOS cos I also have ASUS mainboard and I have not seen +VID everywhere (this option is common for DFIs).
  25. freeboy

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    right, I do realize there is a difference between stability and burn in, at 220fsb these are my settings
    1000
    220fsb
    200 So the memory is running faster
    1:1 ratio
    13 cpu multiplier
    1.4 v on the cpu
    2.8 von the mem
    mid 2800s mghz should easily hit low 3000's
    so the issue is this as best research idicates..
    AND PLEASE do not say I need to lower the devider etc, perhaaps in teh future with the mem stressed, but now everything is Super stable rock solid and a nice little 11% increase or so.

    The issue is the ASUS older A* series was poorly designed, they had a known issue and these where "dumpped"
    I cannot find one thread in any of 6 power up tyrp forums for this board A8S-x.. like it never was released but several other a8 models including a thread about ASUS not supporting volts over 1.4 for the CPU.

    So I called Asus support, they basically told me to screw, they would not help me and they do nopt support there own features!
    NEVER EVER will I get anything from them, I cannot return the board to the place tha sold it to me, although I will call them, because the board is working, no defects just shitty design.

    Rant over, and I know Asus provides some good boards, but integrety says if you have a bad design u do not dump it on an unsuspecting public! ok now rant over!

    Spoke to another knowledgables Asus techrep, sho then sent me to the VM of their BIOS expert, finger crossed, but at this point have read enough to see next board will be a DFI UT Ultra-D if issue with ASUS A8S-x note resolved. thanks again guys
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2007

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