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Amd r9 290 Heat sink surface

Discussion in 'AMD / ATI' started by freeleacher, Jan 15, 2014.

  1. freeleacher

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    I voided the warranty to do this but I plan to fit water cooling anyway.
    My temps dropped by 15c on both my cards by doing this.
    Concave surface not good at all and there was no machining done at all on the contact point on the heat sink only a press tool finish.
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    manofthem, GreiverBlade and RCoon say thanks.
  2. RCoon

    RCoon Forum Gypsy

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    I read somewhere (Was it you in the 290 thread?) about this concavity, and that lapping the contact down could dramatically improve temps. My congratulations to you sir!
  3. natr0n

    natr0n

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    nice.
  4. freeleacher

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    The drop from its highest point to its lowest point the different was .032 thou.
    I new my depth mic would come in handy,
    It had to be done because I new something was wrong.
    The heat just wasn't getting to the heatsink for the fan to disperse the heat.
    Miles better now.
    I had to pop over the road to get some wet and dry and a small stone so ensure its flat.
    Huge mistake because he had me there for 3 hours fixing his Pentium 2 400 computer...
    So be warned don't ask people for tools because they ask for a favour in retualong the long side when replacing heat

    ( when applying the thermal paste be sure only to use a rice size amount dead in the middle.
    To much is detrimental.)
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2014
  5. Solaris17

    Solaris17 Creator Solaris Utility DVD

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    what grit?
  6. freeleacher

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    400 then went right to a 1000 grit stone then 120000 wet and dry.
  7. freeleacher

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    Remember to remove all the thermal pads and place them on the board except the long vrm that will likely snap if you try to remove it.
    You need to do this to avoid getting any crap on them.
  8. Solaris17

    Solaris17 Creator Solaris Utility DVD

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    Oh I know it isnt my first rodeo I was just wondering did you sand with the paper wrapped around the stone? I was going to bake off the copper block so it was easier to work with then use thermal epoxy to put it back on. do you think you had enough room?
  9. freeleacher

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    Yeah just enough room to work with,
    I had a 1 inch block I know is dead flat i wrapped it around that and moved at 45 degree angles for 10 then rotated 4x and kept doing that to rough it down to ensure it remains flat and level.
    I then gently rubbed with my stone that's dead flat 90 degrees to one another then I polished with 12k wet and dry.
    Takes about a hour to do each one.

    I do find it takes about 3x as much time to hit max temp
    Solaris17 says thanks.
  10. cadaveca

    cadaveca My name is Dave

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    best to use double-sided tape and cut sandpaper to match your block. ;)
  11. freeleacher

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    No 6 inch by 1 inch strips then wrap and use when it wears rewrap and use and keep going until that strip is dead and keep it DRY and blow the shit well away from your pcb
    Allow the wet and dry do the work do not rush or you can take out a corner and you do not want that.
    Its copper and will wear it just takes time.
    No need to soften it that's a very bad idea.

    Now and then use higher grit to look for any errors then go back to 400,
    Took me about a hour to do one.


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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2014
  12. james888

    james888

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    I just did some lapping myself. The highest grit I could find in either auto/hardware store was 3000 grit. Where did you get 12k grit?
    Crunching for Team TPU
  13. freeleacher

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    Old man over the road lol
    600 would be fine just rub some together for a few min it will soon soften down.
    You need to have a stone that's dead flat or make something that's flat and use that as a guide.
    I didn't take all of the dip out I left a little there because I was worried I could break into the other side not knowing how thick it was.


    Do not use screw driver to take them apart take your time give it a few min or so to pry them apart they will split but only use your finger tips and don't bend the board any more than 10mm

    don't forget 2 screw at back and 1 on inside if you plan to remove the cover
  14. Divide Overflow

    Divide Overflow

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    Good to see you got some temp drops for your efforts!

    I had been wondering if the GPU die was flat enough to justify such work. (Your results suggest it is) What kind of fingerprint were you getting from your thermal paste?
  15. freeleacher

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    Im using mx3 thermal paste.
    It takes about 3x longer to reach its max temp at a set fan speed.
    Before I was getting 88c @ 65% fan speed,
    Im now getting 81c @ 60% fan speed,
    I figure below 80 @ 65% but haven't yet tested that.
    Its well worth doing.

    @ these settings
    default is 947 core 1250 mem
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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2014
  16. EpicShweetness

    EpicShweetness

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    Wow! take the stock block and sand it flat and the temps are better.....
    Good job AMD :nutkick:

    What paste did you use, that might of contributed to the better temps to
    Again :nutkick: AMD, serious:nutkick:
  17. james888

    james888

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    Since I had all my lapping stuff out the other day I lapped a bunch including my sapphire dual x cooler. That cooler kept my 7970 really quiet and at 70c. Now it sits at 60c almost silent. If you want a quality polished surface you need to do it yourself or go aftermarket. Its not amd' but just cheap manufacturing.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  18. freeleacher

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