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Antec VP550w v2 less amperage than v1

Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by NdMk2o1o, Jan 28, 2013.

  1. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    I'm seriously pissed right now, I bought an Antec VP550w v2 as a mid-term temporary replacement for my Fatal1ty 750w (loose lead connector) on Amazon and was shocked to find that instead of the dual +12v 30a rails that combine to 45a (540w) on the v1, it has the same dual +12v 30a rails that only combine to 444w, that's nearly a 100w difference for the same (albeit updated) model, and it's not widely advertised either I had to wait until I unboxed it today to find out.

    Now I am seriously having doubts this will comfortably run my overclocked rig and have to go through the hassle of contacting Amazon and making a complaint as it wasn't even listed as the V2, bloody dodgy if you ask me trying to palm it off as the VP550p when it is the VP550p V2, makes you wonder what else they cut out and skimped on.

    If I had wanted a bloody 450w PSU I would of bought an Corsair builder for less!
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013
  2. tokyoduong

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    Corsair is excellent value and quality especially the ones that are seasonic rebrand.
    I bought my CX430 on sale for $30. I don't think anyone can pass that up. The thing that people should take note is that always have a PSU on hand. It makes diagnosing hardware problems so much easier and you won't be pissed off when your PSU takes a dump. Newegg and other sites have good PSUs on fire sales every couple months. It's always a good idea to have one on reserve.
     
  3. erocker

    erocker Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Do you mean the "BP" version? Only VP version I can find is 400 watts.

    Do you think it may be possible that the V1 version's ratings weren't correct and they rebadged it V2 with correct specs?
     
  4. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    No, VP550p, here is the product manual for VP550p http://www.antec.com/pdf/flyers/VP550P_EN.pdf it clearly states "+12V1-2 maximum combined output: 540W (45A)"

    The version I have is VP550p V2 here: http://web.antec.com/pdf/manuals/VP550P_V2_manual_EN.pdf , you'll notice on this it shows dual +12v rails though conveniently doesn't mention the combined which I only found out after opening 37a
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013
  5. Jack1n

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    Well if its only temporary just run your rig at stock for the time being.
     
  6. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    It's not temporary as in a few weeks, possibly a few months as money is tight, though my OCZ Fatal1ty still works fine here is the issue, see the connector where the power lead goes in has come loose from the back of the unit? it seems to work fine as long as it doesn't get knocked but is making me nervous:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. McSteel

    McSteel

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    What you have is VP550F, and the one with the 540W on 12V is the VP550P. Both the old one and the new one are made by Delta Electronics, the new one being based on a CAA-550AT/A platform (compare 80plus reports, Antec, Delta). I'm not sure about the P variant's base platform. Might even be a custom-order one.

    I know none of this solves your problem, but this PSU just might do the trick for you, or you could insist on returning it and getting a refund, on account of the difference in model specifications not being clearly represented. Be advised, though, that the fact this is a VP550F and not a VP550P rev.2 certainly won't help with your complaint.
     
  8. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    You are wrong, did you look at my links? both are VP550P only one is denoted V2 which is what I have. The fact it was advertised as a VP550P and the box also says it leads me to think these are correct and you're mistaken.
     
  9. Jack1n

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    Just keep using your 750,the worst that could happen is your system will suddenly power down(if your working on any important projects,ect then use the 550).

    EDIT:you can pour super glue around the edges and glue the thing back in.
     
  10. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    A lot of people might jump on this statement butin all honestly this is what I have been doing up until now and it seems stable unless I knock/wiggle the connector, my only fear is if it does get knocked and blows it may well take other parts with it, and with a £100 mother board, £150 CPU, £250 GPU and £150 SSD amongst other things I really don't know if I can take that risk. That said I did dig out some superglue from t6he back of the cupboard earlier to do exactly as you said but it had leaked and dried up lol :laugh:
     
  11. Jack1n

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    Maybe you can take it apart and take a picture of the inside so we can be sure that just super gluing it will be enough?
     
  12. NdMk2o1o

    NdMk2o1o

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    Well it's still running my 2500k at 4.5ghz stable even when gaming, though I don't fancy opening it up and possibly cause more damage, I think the less I mess with it the better lol :laugh:
     
  13. Jack1n

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    Well its really simple to open up a PSU but its not a big deal if you dont want to,im pretty sure it will run fine,you should see about securing that inlet though.
     
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  14. Geofrancis

    Geofrancis

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    I would take the 750w apart and check there is nothing loose inside it apart from the mains socket. If its just the socket that's loose and the wires are intact I would just epoxy glue it back in place and keep using it.

    There are usually only 4x screws holding a power supply together and they are usually pretty open inside just make sure you drain the capacitors first by powering on the computer without the mains lead in it ( you will usually hear a click) before you take it out.

    A decent 500w psu will run any CPU and single graphics card no matter how far it's overclocked. My antec 500w ran my x6 and hd4870x2 without issues and that card sucks down nearly 300w alone
     

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