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BAD GTX 760 SLI performance

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OK, just ordered the FX 8350 along with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and the Adata SSD.
Do you think performance will be plenty in SLI with this config?

Another thing is the PSU, do you think that it is enough to run without problem? I am planning to OC this CPU a little to 4500Mhz.

So, is it ok tu run the PSU Sirtec High Power BR12 750W Bronze with these components?

MB: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
CPU: AMD FX-8350 (will be running @ 4500Mhz)
RAM: 8GB DDR3 Corsair @ 1333 Mhz Dual channel / 2x2GB + 2x2GB
GPU 1: MSI GTX 760 Hawk / 2GB
GPU 2: MSI GTX 760 TF Gaming / 2GB (will be clocked at 1111Mhz to match the Hawk)
HDD1 WD 500 Blue
HDD2 WD 320 Blue
DVDRW ASUS
SSD ADATA 64 GB SP900
3 120mm Fans , 1 92mm Fan and for the CPU Cooler the CM Hyper 212 EVO

If you don't want any problems get a 1000W PSU. some will say it's overkill but at least you will have more than enough power to spare. BTW, I'm getting my 2 Gigabyte GTX 760 4GB cards this Tuesday so I may be joining you on this forum with issues lol.. Hopefully not but that's all one can only do...... HOPE lol :D
 
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750W should be fine. If you are planning on OCing the CPU and GPUs , you may want to monitor your power draw then just to be certain.

OC'ed Phenom II x4 940 and dual GTX 570 (slightly OC) and I'm pushing upwards of 700W when running full load. The GTX 760 aren't as power hungry as the 570s, but it's something to keep in mind.
 
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750W should be fine. If you are planning on OCing the CPU and GPUs , you may want to monitor your power draw then just to be certain.

OC'ed Phenom II x4 940 and dual GTX 570 (slightly OC) and I'm pushing upwards of 700W when running full load. The GTX 760 aren't as power hungry as the 570s, but it's something to keep in mind.

"750W should be fine" ???????

I had 750W and had some glitches here and there when I SLI'd my 560Ti's..... After I installed the 1000W PSU, the glitching was gone.... It's up to you dude. I don't know why people are saying that 750W is fine for multi card configurations. Fine, to me is not good enough. There has to be PLENTY of power to spare. It's not like getting a 1000W PSU is gonna break the bank and quite honestly, once you have it, all your power worries will be gone and you can tick that symptom off your list of issues when you have to troubleshoot.
 
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"750W should be fine" ???????

I had 750W and had some glitches here and there when I SLI'd my 560Ti's..... After I installed the 1000W PSU, the glitching was gone.... It's up to you dude. I don't know why people are saying that 750W is fine for multi card configurations. Fine, to me is not good enough. There has to be PLENTY of power to spare. It's not like getting a 1000W PSU is gonna break the bank and quite honestly, once you have it, all your power worries will be gone and you can tick that symptom off your list of issues when you have to troubleshoot.

550w runs single cpu and gpu with some OC fine.
750w will run single cpu and 2 x hungry gpu's fine
1000w is for cpu and triple gpu setups, and is entirely a waste of money for two gpu's that have exceedingly good power economy.
If it were for two GTX 780's fully OC'd to 1.2 plus a heavy overclock on the CPU, then I'd say 850-1000w like I had.

You're talking to somebody who has run all three of such setups.

Just as a note, I had 2 780's plus a GTX 275 all maxed out OC'd plus an intel 3570K with a full OC on it. I barely scratched my 1050w PSU.
 
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Also, we must consider that we don't know what else he is running. Multiple ROMs, hard drives etc. There may be other peripherals and all these things suck up power so perhaps the OP should fill out his system specs eh???? ;)
 
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Also, we must consider that we don't know what else he is running. Multiple ROMs, hard drives etc. There may be other peripherals and all these things suck up power so perhaps the OP should fill out his system specs eh???? ;)

He hasnt replied for a week, so I consider this a moot topic until he replies.
 
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He hasnt replied for a week, so I consider this a moot topic until he replies.


Agreed, moot it will remain until further notice. ;)
 
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Guys go easy on the OP. A better more powerful CPU usually means a new motherboard and a new batch of memory. We're not made of money.

That said, many have mentioned that SLI needs a lot of power from the CPU and they are correct. If the CUP, can't dish it out, the cards won't perform well.

Someone here once told me that I should always built a system in the order of power as in MB and CPU bein as powerful as one can afford, then it's memory and any bottleneck on a new system should be at the vid card. Why you ask? Easy..... Later down the road when you upgrade your vid card, that is all you'll need to swap out. When your vid card upgrades surpass the processing power of the CPU, it's time to budget to an entirely new CPU and MB.

DAMM! I forgot this is a moot topic lol
 
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Hey guys! Thank you for your interrest in solving my little dilemmas. I have been out of commission with my pc. Had to change some parts, that's the reason for not showing up here for the last days.
So, here are my specs:
MB: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
PSU: Sirtec High Power Direct12 750W Bronze
CPU: AMD FX 8350 cooled by CM Hyper 212 EVO
SSD: ADATA SP900 64 GB
HDD: WD 500GB Blue and 320GB Blue
RAM: 8GB DDR3 Corsair @ 1333 Mhz Dual channel / 2x2GB + 2x2GB
GPU 1: MSI GTX 760 Hawk / 2GB
GPU 2: MSI GTX 760 TF Gaming / 2GB
Case: Zalman Z11 Plus

Have been noticing some , let's say, issues with SLI, the fact that the top card gets to a 96 deg C ! The bottom card goes to 70~ deg C. That's what Afterburner reports. Any solution to this? A fan or something? And where should I put it in this Zalman Z11 Plus case?

Another issue is that with the current MB I cannot OC to above 4.3Ghz, so I guess this a silly motherboard to play with. It's the Rev 3.0. So, should I keep it or should I buy something else?
If the case of replacing it, should I go with ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 or Crosshair 5 Formula Z ?
 
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AHA!!!!! I had a feeling you were running 2 different cards.

Yeah yeah I know, same GPU same thing blah blah..... Here's something you can try for free. Try changing the bios on both GPUs so they match. This way it will be as if you truly were running the exact same model video card. Mismatching vid cards can cause a lot of problems. Even if they are the same GPU the chips may be a different version hence the issues. Granted they may not be the culprit in this case but at least it's a FREE troubleshooting step you can try before going out and buying extra stuff. There's a lot of info on this forum on how to do it so try it out.

Also I'd like to see how closely you have the cards. They may be starved for air and 1mm between them means at least one of the cards is gonna REALLY HOT under load.
 
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Have been noticing some , let's say, issues with SLI, the fact that the top card gets to a 96 deg C ! The bottom card goes to 70~ deg C. That's what Afterburner reports. Any solution to this? A fan or something? And where should I put it in this Zalman Z11 Plus case?

Does the Z11 plus have a side panel fan? I found with my SLi setup that the side panel fan bringing fresh air to the GPUs made a huge difference.

Also, you could adjust the fan speed on the cards manually in afterburner, that would help reduce temperatures if the fans are not speeding up enough with the factory settings. If afterburner can't do it, you may need to edit BIOS on the cards.

Finally, I'd suggest testing both cards to see which one runs cooler in the top slot.

Hope this helps.
 

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AHA!!!!! I had a feeling you were running 2 different cards.

Yeah yeah I know, same GPU same thing blah blah..... Here's something you can try for free. Try changing the bios on both GPUs so they match. This way it will be as if you truly were running the exact same model video card. Mismatching vid cards can cause a lot of problems. Even if they are the same GPU the chips may be a different version hence the issues. Granted they may not be the culprit in this case but at least it's a FREE troubleshooting step you can try before going out and buying extra stuff. There's a lot of info on this forum on how to do it so try it out.

Also I'd like to see how closely you have the cards. They may be starved for air and 1mm between them means at least one of the cards is gonna REALLY HOT under load.



BAD ADVICE Not all cards are the same and flashing a card with an incorrect/incompatible bios risks bricking the card. Ram timings could be different, VRMs could be different, memory chips could be different. Its not unusual for manufacturers to cheap out when it comes to less costly variations of the card or if its just from a different batch.

It shouldn't matter if their clock speeds are different - They dont need to be matched, in most cases the faster card should default to the speed of the slower card. but thats not always necessary to have SLi work perfectly

Also, if you googled his mobo you will see that his PCI-Ex slots are evenly spaced, theres plenty of room for dual slot coolers.
 
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Also, if you googled his mobo you will see that his PCI-Ex slots are evenly spaced, theres plenty of room for dual slot coolers.

On that note, have we verified that the second card is in the x16 slot and not the x4 right above it?
 
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NOT BAD ADVICE.... IT *CAN* BE DONE.

It's risky yes, but it may be worth it. That is completely up to the OP to decide. If I were the OP, I would do A LOT of research on how best to do this safely and try it if I knew the margin for safety FAR outweighed the possibility of bricking both cards. Techpowerup as in THIS SITE, has all the software and info the OP will need to do it. I've done it with the AMD cards without a hitch and even switched the BIOS back on both cards. I have never done it with Nvidia but given the same circumstances I'd probably try it.
 
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On that note, have we verified that the second card is in the x16 slot and not the x4 right above it?

Not only that but his PCI slots may not have lots of clearance for air circulation. That's what I'm getting at. Who cares if they're evenly spaced. It's more important for the PCI slots to have 3 or 4 slots in between them so that the fans of the top card are getting enough air to cool the card properly. I have a feeling he doesn't have this luxury which explains the huge difference in temps between the top and bottom card.

On my P9x79 Deluxe. The top PCI slot and bottom PCI slot have 4 slots between them with NO cards in between to screw up air flow. They run nice and cool ;)
 

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NOT BAD ADVICE.... IT *CAN* BE DONE.


Sure... Telling/teaching someone to brick their card is great advice.

According to TPU reviews the cards use different voltage controllers, The PCB is also a different layout.


Im telling you - flashing the card with either bios would brick one of the cards.

Its not the same as unlocking pipelines or shaders. When you unlock those - the cards itself are almost identical but limited by software and not hardware and this here is a hardware issue... Unless the OP can reverse engineer the lesser card to be identical to the more expensive card or the other way round, simply just flashing one of the cards with either one of the bios's WONT WORK
 
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Well, they are in the right channel, both of them. I have posted some pics below. I installed a fan I found in the house. Is a 80mm one . I don't know if I positioned it correctly but after some testing, 2 hours of FarCry 3 ended up with the same results. 96 degrees C for the top card (which is the Haw) and 76 for the TF Gaming.
Any ideas on this one?

What I decided is that I really, really need to change the mainboard. It is a big disappointment for me. Can't OC to higher than 4.2 -4.3 Ghz without getting a BSOD or a freeze . Was thinking about getting the Sabertooth R2.0 or the Crosshair 5 Formula Z. Which one is better when it comes to OC ? Which one has better cooling? Which one better overall? Or better yet, do you have any other recommendation?
 

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Well, they are in the right channel, both of them. I have posted some pics below. I installed a fan I found in the house. Is a 80mm one . I don't know if I positioned it correctly but after some testing, 2 hours of FarCry 3 ended up with the same results. 96 degrees C for the top card (which is the Haw) and 76 for the TF Gaming.
Any ideas on this one?

What I decided is that I really, really need to change the mainboard. It is a big disappointment for me. Can't OC to higher than 4.2 -4.3 Ghz without getting a BSOD or a freeze . Was thinking about getting the Sabertooth R2.0 or the Crosshair 5 Formula Z. Which one is better when it comes to OC ? Which one has better cooling? Which one better overall? Or better yet, do you have any other recommendation?

What is the CPU voltage at?
 

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As far as overclocking goes... you might be doing it wrong...

A guy over at Tek Syndicate managed to get 4.6Ghz on the same board and CPU.

I think you should be able to get the same OC pretty easily but that CPU does create a lot of heat and guzzle voltage when its overclocked. If you want to throw money at it just for a measly few hundred Mhz more then thats down to you to decide.

as for which board to pick the sabertooth has always gotten positive reviews. though personally the price tag is a little too rich for my taste.

I dont think its worth getting a new board unless your current one is faulty - otherwise just do what most people do and make the best of what you got or switch to intel
 
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Cpu voltage is at its defaults, I guess it swings here and there and throttle alot.
When I tried to OC, I used both ways, changing the multiplier and have some options in BIOS disabled, and the other way, by touching the FSB and, again, having some options disabled in BIOS. The Voltage has never been touch.
Maybe I ended up with a faulty MB, or even CPU. I want to eliminat this of my question and get another board , maybe the sabertooth. If again I will have issues then it might be the CPU faulty.

In the meantime, any solution for the hot SLI config?
 
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Memory 6 x 4 Gb Kingston HyperX RAM triple channel 24GB total
Video Card(s) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 G1 4GB x2 SLI
Storage 1 ADATA 512Gb (primary OS) 2 X 64GB Agility 2 SSD in RAID0
Display(s) Benq XL2420T, 24" LED Gaming Monitor
Case Corsair Obsidian 800D
Audio Device(s) Onboard 5.1
Power Supply Cooler Master Silent Power 1000W
Software Win 8.1 Enterprise x64
Benchmark Scores They're good!!!
Sure... Telling/teaching someone to brick their card is great advice.

Don't put words into people's mouths and get over yourself.... READ what I wrote and rebut that if you wish but don't lie to get your point across.
 
Joined
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Location
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System Name EVGA-FX | Lenny (Lenovo Y480)
Processor AMD FX-8320 @ 4.5GHz 1.416v | i7 3610qm
Motherboard Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
Cooling Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Memory 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance @ 1600 | 8gb DDR3 @ 1600
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX780 Classified @ 1228MHz 1.615v | GT640m LE
Storage Crucial M500 480GB, WD Caviar Blue 500GB, WD Scorpio Blue 750GB | Samsung 250GB 840
Display(s) Qnix QX2710 1440p | 42" Vizio 3D LCD TV 1080p
Case CoolerMaster HAF XB Evo
Power Supply Seasonic G-650
Software Windows 6.3.9600
Cpu voltage is at its defaults, I guess it swings here and there and throttle alot.
When I tried to OC, I used both ways, changing the multiplier and have some options in BIOS disabled, and the other way, by touching the FSB and, again, having some options disabled in BIOS. The Voltage has never been touch.
Maybe I ended up with a faulty MB, or even CPU. I want to eliminat this of my question and get another board , maybe the sabertooth. If again I will have issues then it might be the CPU faulty.

In the meantime, any solution for the hot SLI config?

You could try bumping up the voltage a little at a time. I don't personally have experience with that board, but you should keep an eye on the voltage once in windows and may have to mess with the LLC to keep the motherboard from dropping the voltage at load (or in some cases raising the voltage).

Just to give you an idea, my FX-8320 @ 4.6GHz requires 1.44v to run Prime stable (ran for 4 hours, which is good enough for me.)

Your FX-8350, assuming it is a better chip, may not require as much voltage. I'm not sure how high you will be able to go with the voltage before heat is an issue with the Hyper 212 EVO.
 

FreedomEclipse

~Technological Technocrat~
Joined
Apr 20, 2007
Messages
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Location
London,UK
System Name Codename: Icarus Mk.VI
Processor Intel 8600k@Stock -- pending tuning
Motherboard Asus ROG Strixx Z370-F
Cooling CPU: BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 {1xCorsair ML120 Pro|5xML140 Pro}
Memory 32GB XPG Gammix D10 {2x16GB}
Video Card(s) ASUS Dual Radeon™ RX 6700 XT OC Edition
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 512GB SSD (Boot)|WD SN770 (Gaming)|2x 3TB Toshiba DT01ACA300|2x 2TB Crucial BX500
Display(s) LG GP850-B
Case Corsair 760T (White)
Audio Device(s) Yamaha RX-V573|Speakers: JBL Control One|Auna 300-CN|Wharfedale Diamond SW150
Power Supply Corsair AX760
Mouse Logitech G900
Keyboard Duckyshine Dead LED(s) III
Software Windows 10 Pro
Benchmark Scores (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡┻━┻
Before anyone says anything else....

Heres a few overclocking guides for bulldozer based CPUs. I highly recommend you read them - In fact, I INSIST that you read them before doing any sort of overclocking.

because If you're leaving voltage on Auto and trying to OC then clearly you have no idea what you are doing let alone know what you are getting into.

Please read the guides to avoid any damage to your hardware, too much voltage could fry your CPU or the VRMs on your motherboard.

Bulldozer OC Guide 1

Bulldozer OC Guide 2
 

Mindweaver

Moderato®™
Staff member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
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Charleston, SC
System Name Tower of Power / Sechs
Processor i7 14700K / i7 5820k @ 4.5ghz
Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming WiFi D4 / X99S GAMING 7
Cooling CM MasterLiquid ML360 Mirror ARGB Close-Loop AIO / CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i Extreme
Memory CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600 / G.Skill DDR4 2800 16GB 4x4GB
Video Card(s) ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 Ti / ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 V2 OC Edition
Storage 4x Samsung 980 Pro 1TB M.2, 2x Crucial 1TB SSD / Samsung 870 PRO 500GB M.2
Display(s) Samsung 32" Odyssy G5 Gaming 144hz 1440p, ViewSonic 32" 72hz 1440p / 2x ViewSonic 32" 72hz 1440p
Case Phantek "400A" / Phanteks “Enthoo Pro series”
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC4080 / Azalia Realtek ALC1150
Power Supply Corsair RM Series RM750 / Corsair CXM CX600M
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Keyboard Glorious GMMK with box-white switches / Keychron K6 pro with blue swithes
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Software Windows 11 Pro x64 / Windows 10 Pro x64
Benchmark Scores Yes
Guys stop with the name calling. This is a warning next time will not be.
 

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
58,413 (8.21/day)
Location
Oystralia
System Name Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load)
Processor Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core)
Motherboard Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded)
Cooling Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
Memory 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V)
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W))
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s) Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) | Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) | Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144)
Case Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s) Logitech G560 | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
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Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
Cpu voltage is at its defaults, I guess it swings here and there and throttle alot.
When I tried to OC, I used both ways, changing the multiplier and have some options in BIOS disabled, and the other way, by touching the FSB and, again, having some options disabled in BIOS. The Voltage has never been touch.
Maybe I ended up with a faulty MB, or even CPU. I want to eliminat this of my question and get another board , maybe the sabertooth. If again I will have issues then it might be the CPU faulty.

In the meantime, any solution for the hot SLI config?

using automatic settings is a mistake. it tends to aim too high or too low - you DO need to manually test and set up your voltages. doesnt matter what board you have, if you dont take the time to set it up right.
 
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