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Bong! Bong! Bong!--56K Warning!

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Naja002, May 25, 2009.

  1. Naja002 New Member

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    Ask not for whom the bell tolls. It tolls for me...



    Bong! Bong! Bong!


    [​IMG]

    Setup a Dual Bong Cooler in my mega-loop. For those not familiar with my WCing system...check out this thread:

    Yes, Another Car Radiator Thread....Major 56K Warning!


    Nothing new in the Bong Cooler--idea has been around a long time and done by many others. [​IMG] So far I am averaging res temps that are 3.3-7C (6-12F) below ambient.

    I've had this bong cooler setup for a couple of weeks now. However, I started it in a tub and moved it into a permanent setup today.

    My current cooling setup is as follows:

    Res> Pump> Manifold> 3 PCs> Manifold> Stacked Dual Car Rads> Bong Coolers> Res

    Each PC is a single loop--Cpu, Nb: 1-1xGpu, 2-2xGpu

    Here's the pix--apologies in advance for the quality of some of them:


    [​IMG]
    That's the big picture. 1/2 of the cooler top is not on in that pic. The housing for the stacked dual car rads and fans can be seen in the background.


    [​IMG]
    Res with the top on completely. I knew that I was going to want/need to look/check/get in there periodically....so I cut the top in half! [​IMG] Anything else would have required me to shut down the rigs and cooling system, and remove the bongs just to get a peek inside. [​IMG] Worked out pretty good. [​IMG] Cheapo $26 cooler from wally-world. [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  2. Naja002 New Member

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    [​IMG]
    I don't have any 12v psu in my out building and have never wanted to set one up out there when 120v is just so much easier to work with....So, after looking around, I decided to give these Walmart clip-on fans a try. They work very well. [​IMG] High is 13w each and low is only 8w. They work so well that I had a misting issue that I fixed with the goofy elbows at the top of the bongs.


    Now it's easy to see that the fans do not fit nice and neatly into the PVC fitting. I pondered for several days on how to make a fan "shroud" that would funnel all of the air into the PVC intake. Tossed around many ideas. In the end I found these cheap plastic bowls at Walmart:

    [​IMG]
    I grabbed a fan off the shelf and took it out of the box to check the fit and....viola! Perfect!

    [​IMG]
    I drilled the large hole through the bottom of the bowl and it fit perfectly with the opening of the PVC intake. Problem is: It didn't work worth a flip. [​IMG] The only thing that I can gather is that instead on funneling the air--it just creates a lot of turbulence inside the bowl. Performance was greatly decreased with the bowls v. without. So, I decided to leave well enough alone and rock-n-roll with it shroud free. But I did need a way to secure the fans:

    [​IMG]
    So I drilled a triad of holes and secured the fans with zip ties. [​IMG]
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  3. Naja002 New Member

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    So, now that that's out of the way, let's take a gander inside the res:
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Mega Prefilter for the pump. It has the course filter with the finer blue filter wrapped around that:
    [​IMG]


    Next--cuz I'm lazy--is the float valve for auto refill. There's simply zero possibily that I will keep up with evaporation, so, uh, yeah:
    [​IMG]
    The water supply line can be seen in the pix above also. Yeah, finally got around to running a 1/2" pvc water line into my out-building. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Finally, just a general view into the res:
    [​IMG]
    The pump is connected to a bulk head fitting--which luckily was long enough to reach all the way through the cooler. Water pumps through the bulkhead and heads to the PCs:

    [​IMG]
  4. Naja002 New Member

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    [​IMG]
    What a mess, huh? After going through the PCs the water returns and comes back up through the floor. It's then sent into the dual car rads and comes out to the bong coolers.


    As stated earlier, I had a misting issue where the airflow was carrying small droplets of water out the top. Over time this was getting everything below wet--including the 120v fans. My fix was simply these goofy elbows--Hey, it works! [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The 4" to 2" fittings on the tops are really not necessary. I picked those up "just in case", but they do increase the air velocity and help push that cooler air up toward the top of the out-building--hopefully helping to keep things a wee bit cooler out there. It's been rainy, cloudy, etc, so it will be a while before I can tell much. Anyway, the double elbows definitely fixed the misting issue. [​IMG]


    In order to get the elbows over the cooling system supply line....I had to whip out the jig saw:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    The blue filter padding helps keep condensation from dripping out and down the side.


    Finally, the water enters the Bongs via 2 shower heads that I found at walmart for $2.88 each...plus tax, of course. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. Naja002 New Member

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    Here's an idea of the effect:

    Building temps--high up and lower toward the floor:

    [​IMG]


    Res Temps:
    [​IMG]

    As I said earlier, I've been running this for a couple of weeks...the cooler is what's new today. The temps get much better, but it's been cloudy and rainy with high humidity. Not sure why the 1 thermometer reads 62%--maybe that's accurate...maybe not--I don't know. What I do know is that everything has been very wet around here for a while now. I figure that when it dries up and the sun comes out--things will improve. [​IMG] I've seen 12F below ambient a number of times before this constant raininess. 12F would mean low 80's F (High 20's C) during the heat of the summer. We'll see what happens! [​IMG]


    Cost:

    Cooler $26
    4" PVC and fittings ~$83
    Misc PVC $20 or less
    Shower heads $6
    Clip-on fans $20
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  6. Naja002 New Member

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    Just wanted to add a pic that I forgot to take yesterday:

    [​IMG]
    Both of the bongs have these cutouts to help the cool water get into the res...[​IMG]

    Temps from today--ambient outside is ~23C/73F

    Temps in the out-building:
    [​IMG]

    Temps in the res:
    [​IMG]

    I may need to do a better job of venting the heat out of the out-building. Right now it just has a passive vent on each end. I think a small fan may help. Implementing it is the question though....
  7. Naja002 New Member

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    My initial disinfectant plan:

    I have one of these that I'm not using:

    Turbo Twist 18w UV

    [​IMG]

    Conveniently, it's already setup in "over-hang" format:

    Old Pic:
    [​IMG]



    The UV was initially purchased for the aquatic snakes that I keep and setup to kill pathogens, so the pump is small for a low flow:

    [​IMG]

    This can run 24/7 and pose no risk to myself or others. [​IMG]

    Step 2 is a periodic dose of either bleach, vinegar or both. Apparently mixing bleach and white vinegar increases the disinfectant qualities many fold. [​IMG]

    Here's a quick read:

    Vinegar Increases Killing Power of Bleach
    --very bottom:

    Now there's is no way I could recommend using bleach in a setup like this in an indoor situation. My out-building is just that: an out-building. I don't live out there and generally do not spend a lot of time out there, so it becomes much less of an issue--for me. Additionally, I'm not really looking to apply a shock treatment. We're talking lower levels....like what? A swimming pool or less. I have no intention of pounding this with bleach. Aside from any health hazards are considerations for corroding the items in the building--don't wanna do that! [​IMG]

    The upside to mixing: Distilled water is considered neutral, but is really about pH 7.4....still very neutral, but not quite the 7.0 that most folks think it is....
    The bleach pH 0f 11-12 is just way too high anyway. Vinegar is an acid, so they help neutralize each other to a degree. I've kept planted tanks and my aquatic snakes in pH as low as 5.7--they love it! [​IMG] My only point is the effect on the blocks, tubing, et al....should be a non-issue. [​IMG]

    That particular excerpt "recommends first diluting one cup of household bleach in one gallon of water and then adding one cup of white vinegar." I would guess that I have 5-6 gals of water in this setup these days. So, I'm willing to assume that 1 cup of bleach and 1-2 cups of vinegar would be a reasonable starting point and I think that's what I will try. [​IMG] I just sold off my pH/C02 controllers, so I'll have to whip out the drop kit and check the pH. My water is normally pH 8.0-8.2. Even though vinegar is a disinfectant in itself....that article is focused of the benefits of bleach at a lower pH.

    I'll keep reading around and keep putzing around with things and we'll see how it goes....[​IMG]


    EDIT:

    I emailed Alex Petra about the PT Nuke, ie, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate and he says that the Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate is non-evaporative. That was my instinct and is further supported by Wikipedia:

    Copper(II) sulfate

    I really hope not to be hitting 650C any time soon.....[​IMG]


    I added 1 cup of bleach and 2 cups of vinegar. Went back out there a little while ago and the scent of bleach was a bit more then I prefer. So, I'm going to have to see how long it lasts. I will probably do a periodic bleach dose and focus more on the vinegar, PT Nuke and silver. So, ATM there's 1 cup bleach, 2 cups white vinegar and 40 drops of PT Nuke in the system. EDIT: I was out there several times today and the bleach smell is gone. So, apparently the chlorine evaporated as it is inclined to do....[​IMG] Just means that when I do a bleach dose....I'll need to stay out of there for ~24hrs.

    For the incoming dust, etc from the fan intakes--I cut some of these filter pads and micro-filter pads to fit inside the bottom of the bongs. Just above the opening here:

    [​IMG]

    They are made for aquarium filters. At the rate of flow plus gravity....there shouldn't be any issues. I'll just need to take them out and clean the periodically. How often? I don't know right now, but I would guess no more then once/month. Micro pad on top and 20 ppi on the bottom.
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  8. Naja002 New Member

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    Ok, after swapping some PMs with nub (@OCN) about this and other stuff I decided to make a modification to my bongs. I don't think this is exactly what nub had in mind, but this is what I've come up with. Mind you--it didn't work out quite as well as planned.....[​IMG]

    First start with some pvc fittings and pipe, drill and bits, towel, zip ties and a few other odds-n-ends:

    [​IMG]


    Cut the pipe and mount the fittings, and drill some holes. The very top holes (4x 3/32") are for a "spray" to run down the walls, the smaller holes (8x 1/16") are for wicking:


    [​IMG]


    Drill another set of 1/16" holes (8x) a little further down:

    [​IMG]


    I drilled a single 1/16" hole into each cap just so the water in the bottom part of the tube would not get stagnant:

    [​IMG]


    Cut the terry cloth towel to fit. Zip tied it below the top spray holes and over the first set of wicking holes:

    [​IMG]


    The tubes/wicking will extend all the down to/past the fan input area:

    [​IMG]


    Here's a vid of the function. Too many holes and too big. If I would have use less holes and smaller top spray holes--this would have turned out better:

    [​IMG]

    Live and learn. I may fix it, but I'm not really in the mood right now. I have to shut down the rigs et al in order to work on it.
  9. Naja002 New Member

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    Ok, messed up the bong mod a bit and it took me a minute to figure out a simple way to fix what I screwed up! [​IMG] Once it dawned on me....it was like: well, yeah, DUH! [​IMG] Too many holes and some that are just too big. Here's the fix:

    Cut some pieces of pvc pipe of workable length and then split them:

    [​IMG]


    Add some pvc glue to the pipe and DIY "Collars".....and attach collars:

    [​IMG]


    Drill fewer and/or smaller holes:

    [​IMG]


    Cut a few zip ties in order to get the terry cloth back up over the collars and then re-zip-tie:

    [​IMG]


    Get everything set back up and check the functionality:

    [​IMG]

    So I wound up with 3 rows of 4x 1/16" holes....12x 1/16" holes total...per tube.


    Ok. I'm Happy now. [​IMG]

    Edit: Amazing. Truly Amazing. The Bongs are virtually silent now. Almost zero water noise and the only sound left is the fans. At 13w or 8w....they are not very loud at all. Very Cool.

    Outside ambient is ~83F. Out-building ambient is 95F. Res temp is 85F and HVC temp is 83.5F. I just turned on the car rad fans after having them off for 8hrs. Looking to see what effect that has on the out-building temps and all the others....
  10. Naja002 New Member

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    Just quoting this over here, since turning off the car rad fans will leave the system cooling to the bongs....[​IMG]




    Here's an index to this cooling system:

    Yes, Another Car Radiator Thread--56K Warning!

    Bong! Bong! Bong!--56K Warning!

    Horizontal Volenti Cooler.....56K Warning!

    The Hole--Geothermal Loop--56K Warning!

    Yes, it's all 1 system separable and controllable by the seasonal manifold.....
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  11. Naja002 New Member

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    Just wanted to toss this up here:

    [​IMG]

    i7 @3.4 (and 2 other quads) running on the Bongs and HVC only. Ambient outside is 52F/11C. Last 160hrs the max is 68C--that's bongs/HVC only at night, and bongs/HVC + Rad Fans from 9am until 11pm. Highs outside in the low 80'sF/ ~28C.

    Not too bad really. It's about 90% humidity.

    The i7 will do a whole lot more, of course, but the ApogeeGT block just can't handle it, so I've turned it down probably for the summer.
    Last edited: May 30, 2009
  12. 1Kurgan1

    1Kurgan1 The Knife in your Back

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    Very interesting setup, I like it. But my question is, how hot is the liquid by the time it reaches that third comp?
  13. Naja002 New Member

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    They are parallel, so the temp is the same to each rig...
  14. intel igent

    intel igent New Member

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    that's crazy! i like it :D

    plus the word "bong" is in the title :pimp:

    bong cooling is the cheapest way to get ambient temp's :cool:
  15. Naja002 New Member

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    The lower the humidity....the lower ya go below ambient....
  16. intel igent

    intel igent New Member

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    i think most people (myself included) are put off by the size and amount of work that goes into a bong cooling setup, but if you have the knowledge and desire you can have EXCELLENT temp's :toast:
  17. Naja002 New Member

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    They don't have to be big to be functional. A float valve or refill res takes most/all the work out of it. I laid out a reasonable disinfectant plan that isn't much work. Many folks put more time (unnecessarily) into their standard WCing loops then is actually required with a half decently thought out bong setup.
  18. Beertintedgoggles

    Beertintedgoggles

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    Have you thought about running a dehumidifier out there to bring the temps down even more? Or even better run a dehimidifier inside and modify the bongs to vent the exhaust outside.
  19. Naja002 New Member

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    The out-building is not "sealed", so running a dehumidifier in there would just be an exercise in futility. :D I would actually like to vent the air into and out of the bongs from the outside, but with the car rads in the window--it's not going to happen. I'm not going to be drilling any large holes through the walls or floor. But, yes, it has crossed my mind. The ambient temp inside the building is up to 12F higher than the outside temp. By the time the bongs get temps below the out-building ambient--the res temp is normally about the same as the outside temp. Radiant heat from the sun heats up the building a bit. So, by venting from and to the outside--at least during the day--I would shave another up to 12F off the res temps. But, again, I'm not going to be punching any holes in the walls or floor. [​IMG]

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