Discussion in 'Buy/Sell/Trade/Giveaway Forum' started by bmaverick, Nov 19, 2011.
Still working on picking up a pump for my bro's build....
How's about a Bump til then
Thanks for the bump. Still have a few pumps.
Bump for pumps
Hey man, price changed yet for US?
Nope, I've been watching the USPS. The counter people mentioned the change on January 26th. Nothing happened. That is puzzling to me.
So, everything is the same as before.
Bump for you
Sorry, had to. Assuming you've still got a few left?
Yes, a have a few left.
bump for today.
Need a pump or two. A great deal on "overstock" new pumps.
Need a new pump?
Laing DDC-1T aka MCP350 pumps are available ....
I believe I need a pump, Mr. Maverick. Pump me up!
Cool. Will do, see your PM.
A bump for your pumps?
On a non-rhyming and serious note, can you shoot me a PM? Looking at a new smaller system and I think a MCP 350 might be the ticket.
Got a set of pumps, and am very happy so far.
On a side note, if you plan on replacing the head of the unit, make sure to have a T-20 bit to remove the bolts. I went with a combined reservoir head, and was baffled to find the new bolts were Phillips heads rather than the T-20s of the original unit.
Yes, the original screws for the DDC pumps are T-20. They are however slotted T-20s, thus a flat blade will work too in a pinch.
Please don't get the wrong idea, I had no problems. My comment was meant more for the people who don't have access to a decent tool box. T-20 drivers aren't exactly part of most people's basic hardware kits, and I wasn't trying to complain. It was just an oddity.
No matter what head the bolts had, the pump is great. That's all that really matters, right?
As was said, a large flat bladed screw driver will work as well. As you'd be replacing the bolts, no harm done. I'd be more wary if I was reusing them (I've stripped a few slotted bolts like these in my life). Again, no complaints.
No cause for any alarm. Glad you pointed that out for others. The T-20 are better suited anyways since those ensure the proper torque to bottom out causing the o-ring inside to seal evenly. Gong to the phiips causes runout with the screw driver, thus people are fooled thinking the screw bottomed out. Not sure why Laing went philips with the DDC-3 series knowing this tid bit of info. They had it right the first time.
Bump about pumps.
Need a pump ?
Bump for yet another excellent transaction. Finally got everything bolted and wired up on a Swiftech radiator with pump mount. Not sure of the exact model number, but it's similar to this.
I know this isn't related to the sales directly, so first I'll offer a bump for an excellent pump.
Next, has anybody done any modification on these suckers? I ask because it looks like PWM output control is possible.
Allow me to explain myself. The pump, as delivered, has the standard 3 pin adapter. Power, ground, and signal return for pump run data. The question arises because I like gutting everything before completing the install. The circuit board has soldered leads for all four conductors, but the fourth is sliced at the body of the pump.
If you resoldered the conductor, and put a 4 pin end on the pump you've got something truly awesome. A pump with accurate computer controls, that costs less than $100. I'd just like to confirm this works before I spend time procuring the crimp connectors.
No dice. It's not PWM, or at least not conventional PWM. Check Martinsliquidlab's review on the pumps here.
If I'm not mistaken, there was some talk about replacing the electronics from the standard square-tooth drive signal to more of a sine drive which would quiet down the pump, but that was a project by someone on some odd forum with a limited production run check bmav's post below.
I don't have too much experience with other pumps, but I've found the DDC-1T is decently good for noise when running at full speed. It should respond rather well to speed control via voltage as well.
Look up DIYINHK on the web. The Sanyo PCB replacements are still available.
The original PWM is Laing Apple/Dell proprietary based.
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