Can someone recommend a modular PSU?

[ex_reven]

Im after a modular PSU for the computer i am currently on
See the specs of course, near my username.

It doesnt have to be too powerful, im not into extreme stuff.
However I am running a X1950 Pro graphics card and i do overclock somewhat.

So what im after mainly is a PSU that is TIDY. Which is why im asking for modular PSU.
But I also dont want it to be too expensive, as it is merely to make my case neater.

Can anyone recommend something?
Or even recommend some decent brands.
I was looking at the top of the range modular PSU's but theyr too expensive to justify me buying them.

 

[ex_reven]

*bump*

 

[JC316]

Antec smart power 2.0 500W.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103937

 

[ex_reven]

it has 35 amps on the 5v line
19 amps and 12 amps on the 12v line

dont i need more amps on the 12v line for x1950?

EDIT - i need like 30 amps on one 12v line i think

 

[Frogger]

Prob mega $$ down under but ....http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/power_management/ocz_evostream_power_supply

 

[ex_reven]

Prob mega $$ down under but ....http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/power_management/ocz_evostream_power_supply

my source puts it at $300 lol

an awful lot just for cable management

 

[Azn Tr14dZ]

it has 35 amps on the 5v line
19 amps and 12 amps on the 12v line

dont i need more amps on the 12v line for x1950?

EDIT - i need like 30 amps on one 12v line i think

Well, from the Specifications, it's 17A on 12v1 and 19A on 12v2, which makes it a total of 36A on the 12v Rails combined, so it should run an X1950 Pro fine if it only requires 30A on the 12v Rail(s).

 

[ex_reven]

Well, from the Specifications, it's 17A on 12v1 and 19A on 12v2, which makes it a total of 36A on the 12v Rails combined, so it should run an X1950 Pro fine if it only requires 30A on the 12v Rail(s).

oh ok
this is good

 

[JC316]

Well, from the Specifications, it's 17A on 12v1 and 19A on 12v2, which makes it a total of 36A on the 12v Rails combined, so it should run an X1950 Pro fine if it only requires 30A on the 12v Rail(s).

Yeah, that. You combine the two rails for the total, which is 36A. It powers my system with ease.

 

[ex_reven]

Excellent i can get one delivered for $110
i might shop around and see if i cant find anything similar for a better price

 

[JC316]

$110 AUS, I take it? I got mine for $90USD a few months back.

 

[ex_reven]

or a 500watt one for $130 delivered

No Australian Dollars

 

[ex_reven]

LMFAO
i was about to look for cable ties!
for a MODULAR psu ...im so stuuuupid

 

[AshenSugar]

my advice avoid modular specly with high draw devices, they are less reliable.

you are adding a whole set of new LOOSE connections, by loose i mean non soldered/solid connections, these loose connections make the power delivered less reliable/clean/robust, also if the line gets to high a draw it means there are 2x as many connections that can burn out due to overload.

from my exp with high end and mid range modulars i have gone to totaly avoiding them.

if you absulutly cant stand the thought of having a non modular the kingwin units with screw down connections are more secure/stable then the normal plastic clip in ones.

but as i said, any modular adds another loose connection to the equasion, another weak link that can fail at any time, zipties and cord wraps are cheap and be used to make any psu clean and tidy.

 

[ex_reven]

Ive ordered the unit, but a 500W model.

As for the loose connections. It should be fine, i tend to be a neat freak, but as soon as i organize my cables they stay that way and i usually don't do any more modding.

I'll do my best to ensure that the cables have as good a connection as possible, thankyou for your concern ashensugar

 

[AshenSugar]

well you have been warrned, as i tell my clients, some of them found out the hardway what i ment.

watched a 6800ultra sli system burn off the prongs on the psu side because the video card was pulling so much thru the wires/loos connections, when he tryed to rma the psu they told him (after they had it in hand) that it was "user error" and they wouldnt replace it free, they would however do a repair on it for $35(including shiping back to him), also turned out that it messed up one of the 2 video cards the company(ultra) then told him again it was user error that caused the blowout on the lines and said he would have to talk to the video card maker about a possable rma.
when he asked what "user error" he made they said "you overloaded the cable".........

after that he used conductive glue(liquid solder) to connect the cables to the psu side, oh and had to send the card back to BFG(thankfully they had a good RMA policy) but he still damnaged a 400$ video card(at the time) by using a 80$ modular psu.

work in a shop that deals with this stuff alot and you start to avoid certen things, the kingwin units arent as bad as the normal run of teh mill ones, but still, every time i have to install or order one for somebody i cringe thinking about how i would feel of my psu desided to have a cable FRY at the PSU SIDE and took out my system in the prosess.

 

[ex_reven]

what makes a loose cable draw increased power?

 

[AshenSugar]

its not the loose cable, the draw increses as you game or use a device, heat causes the device to draw more power, more power over a loose connection causes heat, look at what happened to the guy in the video card section who made his own pci-e power converter cable, the connection burnt out, melting some of the sockets plastic.

a loose connection heats up.

thats why they moved to using 6 pin pci-e power plugs from using 4 pin molex connections and its why some cheap 4pin to 6pin adapters burn up, the conections are not solid/secure.

have you ever used a vaccume or other device for a long time then gone to unplug it and the cord been hot at the plug end? same principle.

 

[ex_reven]

ah ok

well il keep that in mind if i ever smell something smeltering lol

 

[Boneface]

This is what im running and i have the 1950xt and th modular part is great http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103940

 

[Frick]

I have a Tagan Easycon and I like it. It doesn't feels as secure as a non-modular psu, but as I don't have lot's of stuff in my system It's almost a must. I had a Chieftech-psu for a while and man was that a mess!

 

[EviLZeD]

hiper type r modular psus are goo but i guess u already ordered

 

[Thermopylae_480]

I have a modular Seasonic M12, the connections are really tight, to the point it can be difficult to unhook them. It seems to be really high quality, it also cost a bit too, so it had better be.

 

[JC316]

its not the loose cable, the draw increses as you game or use a device, heat causes the device to draw more power, more power over a loose connection causes heat, look at what happened to the guy in the video card section who made his own pci-e power converter cable, the connection burnt out, melting some of the sockets plastic.

a loose connection heats up.

thats why they moved to using 6 pin pci-e power plugs from using 4 pin molex connections and its why some cheap 4pin to 6pin adapters burn up, the conections are not solid/secure.

have you ever used a vaccume or other device for a long time then gone to unplug it and the cord been hot at the plug end? same principle.

Yeah, but on 12V, and over such a sort distance, it would really take alot to melt the cable.

The only case I have ever personally seen like that was in a 94 Lincoln Mark VIII. The bower motor cable was loose and it melted the connector, but that was a VERY loose connector and a high draw motor.

 

[AshenSugar]

not the cable jc the connector, 2 diffrent things and i have seen BOXES of these psu's being sent back for RMA because of connector burnout on the psu side, diffrent brands, so many that 2 of the local parts supplyers around here nolonger carry any of them at all when they use to carry 5-8 models/brands b4.