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changed my OC / Q6600

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by imperialreign, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    I'll give that a shot first thing in the morn; If that shows any issues, I might try and raise the BUS to 450 at x8 . . . we'll see. i wonder how hot that would run on air cooling :p
     
  2. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    [​IMG]

    seems stable at 3.6 GHz - been running F@H for over 1.5 hours now. Little warm with all 4 cores running 100%; core temps are averaging 67C-68C . . . I might see how far I can lower vcore while keeping it stable . . .
     
  3. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    67-68 are still OK temps. Quads run much hotter, and withstand the heat well.
     
  4. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    yeah, I figure it can handle more, but considering the 10C jump just by uping the multi and the vcore like that - I don't think I'll be able to come anywhere near 4G on air :ohwell:

    I estimate I can prob snake 3.8 out of it, but that might be pushing it . . .
     
  5. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    If it were me, I'd settle for 3.6 on that cooler for now. An Ultra120Ex would probably let you run 1.5V 24/7, and save you a few bucks over going h2o. But, if h2o is in the budget, why not I say. lol.

    Consult with us experienced water coolers before you settle on buying something tho.
     
  6. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    yeah, I've been even more seriously considering going HOH sometime soon. I also intend to do that with a couple of future GPU's as well - but I want them to be on their own seperate setup.

    TBH, I was at Radioshack the other day, and they had the newer Thermaltake Bigwater 735 kit for $105 on-shelf. Damn tempting price - the only component I wasn't too thrilled with is the water block, though . . . I figured I wanted to do some more research and read up on some reviews of various components first, though . . .
     
  7. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    That's exactly why I said to consult us h2o enthusiasts first. lol. Thermaltake isn't a good brand for water cooling. Restrictive parts and bad pumps. Avoid at all costs. Look to Swiftech for budget h2o. Or save a little more, and go custom.
     
  8. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    yeah, she was a little floozy looking, and the couple of reviews I read were kinda meh on it.

    been looking through some of the stuff at FrozenCPU here and there, just trying to get ideas of what's what. TBH, considering the case I have, I'd like to slap a reservoir at the front, it's not like a Stacker is hurting for airflow :p

    but, anyhow, I was looking at these:

    Swiftech pump
    waterblock
    radiator
    reservoir

    thoughts?
     
  9. Megasty New Member

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    I can pull 4ghz easily with the q6600 @ 1.5v on a simple swiftech rig, even the H20-220 compact is 4ghz worthy. On my custom tri-rad setup I was able to get it to 4.2ghz @ 1.54v. To get it any higher I had to use a closed single loop with the rad from the H20-220, a MCP655, a Apogee GT, & an entire 10" of tubing. That system dissipated enough heat to crank it up to 4.42ghz @ 1.6v. Thermaltake's BW junk won't even cut 3.6ghz which is just sad.
     
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  10. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    Avoid Crossflow rads. They don't cool as well. Pump is excellent. Water block is good, but there are better. Also, try Petrastechshop for components. Usually priced better than FCPU. And for a res, I prefer the Microres, or alternatively, you can get an MCP-350 pump, and a Bitspower Reservoir replacement top for it. (What I run)

    CPU Block
    Rad
    Pump
    Pump Top

    I at least suggest the Rad and block upgrades.
     
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  11. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    have you used that style rad before? TBH, based upon it's length, I think I'd have a hard time mounting in without a headache . . . although . . . a rad that length, I could affix to the bottom of the Stacker, and plumb it through . . .

    thanks for the info and tip, especially on the waterblock. Still kinda leanin on the res, though - reviews have been great for it as well, which is reassuring.

    then comes the medium itself - liquid . . . I think I'll start a new thread for a discussion on liquid differences and whatnot


    <edit>

    what are your thoughts on this waterblock: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=149&products_id=22015

    curious if you've heard anything - the reviews I've read place it in league with the D-Tek FuZion (average 1-3C behind the D-Tek under load, both stock and overclocked), and the price is a bit better . . . but you know how reviews can be, y'know . . .
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2008
  12. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    That block doesn't compete with the Fuzion, especially if you get a nozzle kit for the Fuzion. I run the Quad core nozzle on mine.

    As far as the rad, you can mount it on the back of the case with a rad box.

    For liquid, I just use distilled water. Has the best thermal properties, with the tradeoff of needing flushed a little more often.
     
  13. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    rad at front or back of case is better? Been up in the air on that one, I can see the pros and cons of either installation . . .

    anyhow, you've never had any issues with distilled h2o? Don't get me wrong, I believe that $30 for a bottle of coolant is ridiculous, and that one could achieve similar performance on the cheap . . . I'm guessing, then, that algae and bacteria growth are more of an issue if you have a large res that allows decent volumes of water to sit relatively still?

    But, IIRC, even with distilled water, you can still run into an electrolosis issue if you have dissimilar metals, especially copper and aluminum . . . changing the fluid more often will abate that, even adding a small amount of ethylene would prolong it; propylene glycol is intended to prevent electrolosis, but is rather thick . . .

    . . . never had an issue with your water picking up a slight voltage, huh?
     
  14. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    Not at all. The components in my loop are copper and brass. The fittings don't seem to effect anything.

    And with the rad box, it won't effect the airflow in your case.
     
  15. warhammer New Member

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    F1 with the Fuzion block. I have my rad inside my case ARMOR it works well.

    Wile E "nozzle kit for the Fuzion this is something new ? do they fit in the nozle and does it make any diffrence?"
     
  16. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    as to the radiator, I'm not concerned with any impact on airflow - not with running a Stacker 830 with 8 fans blowin away :D

    I kinda figured I'd want to install one at the front, so that it recieves the coolest air possible across it . . . I had kinda figured if it was at the back, it wouldn't be as thermally efficient as possible, y'know?
     
  17. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    Well, considering when you use a rad box, it's on the outside of the case, it's just as thermally efficient as a front mount., as both positions will receive fresh air.

    When I actually get around to putting my rig in the case(lol), I plan on having the 3x120mm rad on the back, and a single 120mm front mounted. Or, if I decide to replace the single with a double, I'll bottom mount it.

    One thing I must point out: It's natural to assume that a 120mm rad takes up 3*5-1/4" front bays, just like a 120mm, but it actually takes up 4. The end tank with the barbs protrudes into the 4th slot. It would be 7 slots for a 2x120mm rad.
     
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  18. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    guess a 2x120 rad will be going at the back or the bottom, then - as I've only got 4 slots available at the front unless I relocate the HDD cage. No biggie, I guess.

    Anyhow, though - based on those components (the waterblock and rad you mentioned, and the reservoir and pump I was looking at), and the size of a Stacker, you think that pump is more than enough, or is it overkill as far as flow volume output?

    Also curious, that Swiftech pump I mentioned is rated 50psi max, so I figure it probably won't be maxed out anyhow - but, would that place it into a "high pressure" category or is it still considered "low pressure" (I'm guessing high :p) . . . not sure round about what is considered high and low with CPU components.

    Are there any real big differences or things I should be aware of?




    <edit>

    tried changing the clocks up again . . . think I'm running into some limitations - not sure if it's the board, the BIOS, or the DRAM.

    I can't seem to get the DRAM to boot anything above 1600MHz, no matter what voltage I send their way on loosened timings (highest I went was 2.1v @ 10-10-10-33). But, using the FSB to DRAM strap option and setting it below 400MHz will boot with a BUS of 450, CPU multi x8 and vcore 1.468. DRAM clocks at 1500 that way. SYS was stable for the couple of benches I threw at it the whole 15min I ran at those settings, would require further stability testing . . .

    But, oddly enough, once I start hitting settings that won't boot, BIOS gets really funky and won't allow the SYS to boot even at lower, known good settings (even had one failure during POST spit a couple lines of HEX) - resulting in me having to load defaults, boot to WIN, shut down, power off and go back in. Little aggrevating. I'm going to check if ASUS has any newer BIOS versions, and if so, flash and recheck.

    memtest checks out so far (going on 2hrs as of this edit, at 150% coverage), but something is holding me back (kinda bummed I'd have to lower the MEM clocks just to raise either the BUS or CPU further). Need further investigation on my part - keeping my fingers crossed it's just a buggy BIOS version (which I doubt).
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2008
  19. warhammer New Member

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    Heres a review on 6 CPU water blocks http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&number=1&artpage=2882&articID=627

    Here is a stacker case project just to give you some ideas http://www.radiical.com.au/projects/RadUltraandCMStacker.asp


     
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  20. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    although a different Stacker model than what I'm running, still some good info there. I'd go with solid lines as well, if not for how much of a pain in the ass it would be to get all the fabrication straight - doable, but tedious.
     
  21. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    In a cpu only loop, either pump mentioned above will be way more than enough.

    As for your clocks, most Quads don't like a high fsb. This may be the stability issues you're running into. Also keep in mind, the maximus is very hungry for NB voltage. With high speed ram, it can need quite a lot. Instead of trying to push for higher Mhz on the ram, have you instead tried to tighten timings? Perhaps somewhere in the CAS6 1450MHz range?
     
  22. imperialreign

    imperialreign New Member

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    well - the funny thing is, at 1600MHz and 1.8v, I can tighten the timings down to 5-5-5-15 without any headaches. Issue, though, DDR3 doesn't require the same types of voltage that DDR2 does; 2.15-2.2 is quite heavy on stock OCZ coolers, considering that they're spec-ed at 1.9v - which at this point I intend to replace soon as well. These sticks just don't like going over 1600MHz at all, although the quad seems to accept it just fine . . . I merely have to lock the DRAM down to a lower frequency and system boots and runs (still need to do a full stability test, though). 450 BUS was the highest I've gone with it, as I was trying to get the DRAM to break 1600; hell they didn't even want to run 25MHz over :confused:

    Anyhow, I was running quite an outdated BIOS (11-07-07; didn't realise it was the shipped BIOS), so I d/l the most recent update and flashed - I just haven't gotten back around to attempting those clocks again as now I'm duking it out with WIN :shadedshu :banghead:

    Since I activated WIN the other day, the whole OS has been getting stupid on me - I lose i-net connection for no reason at all, although I can still access the router and ping the ISP server. WIN doesn't currently see an audio device, although it's installed in device manager and lists it. I keep getting service errors now and then - and this all happened after the updates that require WIN to be activated before they'll install . . . I've tried running system restore, and going back as far as 3 weeks ago, but the updates are hard-installed into the kernel and the problems are still there; and I can't remove the updates, either.

    effin' WIN :shadedshu

    Looking like I'm going to have to save the activation files on to my other HDD so I can format and re-install WIN XP . . . again. I should keep a counter going at this point -> "x number of weeks without a WIN XP re-install"
     
  23. Nitro-Max

    Nitro-Max New Member

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    Since this i changed my multi to 8 and fsb to 450 "lowerd" the ram to 900mhz i ran preformance level 9 amd set it to moderate.
    this seems alot more stable and has balanced out my memory speeds lovely i think you'll agree for ddr2 only @900mhz this is great not to mention the 1800mhz fsb i lost a small amount of read speed hardly noticable but look at the write and copy speeds now!! :toast:

    it does score higher especially the l2 cache but im running this with other stuff running atm.

    [​IMG]

    Has anyone ever tweaked there computer to the point were windoows questions your licence and blocks your login cos it thinks its installed on another machine lol cos im having this problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2008
  24. Megasty New Member

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    :roll: Yeah, when I cranked my q6600 from 3.6 to 4.2 I left the old ddr2 800 in there like an idiot & it was OC'd to hell & worked perfectly. Too bad windows gave me a stupid error message saying that this copy of vista ultimate cdkey has already been installed in another machine. It was trying to install some windows update junk. I was having such a good laugh when I saw the ddr2 1200 still sitting on my bed. That error message just had to ruin it :rolleyes:
     
  25. Wile E

    Wile E Power User

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    When windows does that with the activation, your OC isn't stable. It means something has been corrupted.

    I've run my cpu all the way up to 4455 from 3000, and everything in between, and never had an issue.
     

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