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First Water Build, sorta log!

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Ejjman1, Mar 5, 2010.

  1. Ejjman1 New Member

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    This is what I got so far.


    Here is everything laid out. Helps me think clearly.

    [​IMG]

    The next picture is my Apogee XT Waterblock. I had to grind off the top left corner because the huge Mobo Block was blocking it. I think it turned out ok, and I don't think that will defect anything.

    [​IMG]

    This is the motherboard finally complete. I think it looks spiffy, and hopefully my water won't leak from anything.

    [​IMG]


    Is this right? The fans, the way they are faced, will blow through? I think that's right..?

    [​IMG]


    I have run into a few things, though. I am not sure which way to mount the fans on my radiator.

    Another thing, is there anyway to test the system without having the motherboard in the case? Like, I dunno. But if I were to have an obvious leak, then I could fix it right away without taking everything out. Like, sending the pump power without actually turning the computer on, and having the components outside of the case.

    I think I'm doing fine on everything else. Where can I pick up some local distilled water? Like, wal-mart, home depot, etc..


    Thanks!

    EDIT: I threw up a picture of my fans, and curious if they are pointing the right way!
     

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    Last edited: Mar 5, 2010
  2. steelkane

    steelkane New Member

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    were you mounting the rad
    air should come from the outside - in
    build it in the case,, then jump the psu to check for leaks
     
  3. Thrackan

    Thrackan

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    In the last pic, the fans will blow down - through the radiator.
    You can check 2 things for that: the curves on the fan blades or the supports from the fan frame to the rotor (which is always on the exhaust side).

    Next, where will you be mounting your radiator?
    Most common sense for fan placement: Hot air rises. Don't fight that. So for any placement with the radiator placed horizontal, make sure the air blows up.
    When placing it vertical, for instance, in the front drive bays, or behind the case, I'd let the fans blow towards the rear.

    Distilled water: Home depot/Walmart should work, or your local drugstore. I bought mine at the local DIY shop.

    Testing: plug ONLY the pump into the power supply and jumpstart it (connect black to green on the 24-pin). Make sure not to have any cables attached to the motherboard since I killed a motherboard that way once :D
    Just fill up your loop and fire the pump up, let it run for a while.
     
  4. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Haha, jump-start a psu. That sounds awesome, I'll try that out. Thanks so much!

    I mounting the radiator on the top of my case (HAF 932). I have the fans on the bottom, blowing air through the rad, pushing the heat up, out of the case. Do I want it this way?

    EDIT: steelkane says air should come from outside-in, so does that contradict the way I plan to do it?

    EDIT2: Jumpstarting the PSU, can that hurt anything...connect green to black, sounds sketch haha.

    EDIT3: Finally, I don't need to plug the fans in while testing, do I? Since no heat will be generated from the cpu since it's not on..? I mean, it wouldn't hurt, but it's just sucking more power that isn't needed.'

    EDIT4: I swear, last edit! Does this loop sound good? Res>Pump>CPU>Mobo>Rad ? I can't find the best answer for that.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2010
  5. oily_17

    oily_17

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    EDIT: You will always get cooler air from outside the case but if you have good air flow inside the case, it may not affect the temps too much taking air from inside .

    EDIT2: No you will not hurt anything jump starting the PSU you can even buy a connecting block to jump start the PSU.Something like this, if you dont want to DIY it -

    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/pro...d=309&osCsid=785c6096d105a38effcbdd0887771d95

    EDIT3:No you dont need the fans plugged in.

    EDIT4:As long as you have the RES before the pump then you should be good to go.Every case and the way things are laid out will have different routes.Some people like the RAD before the blocks and others will have it after, just what ever suits you best will work.
     
  6. Thrackan

    Thrackan

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    I've had this argument many times now, and never have I seen actual numbers that support a preference for a top-mount blowing down.
    The heated air in the case (GFX card, RAM, harddisks?) rises up, so aiding it out of the case by use of fans would make the most sense.

    Yes, the final saturation temperature of your loop will be slightly higher. So if you only care about cooling whatever you have on water, go ahead and blow top-down.
     
  7. Ejjman1 New Member

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    I decided to have the air being blown up, which makes sense to me.

    The barbs on on the right side, but you can't see them.

    I will wire like this:

    Res > Pump > CPU > Mobo > Rad > Res

    I will post more later, but I gotta head to work now.

    [​IMG]
     

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  8. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    Something looks kinda familiar. Looking good so far!!
     
  9. steelkane

    steelkane New Member

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    Maybe think about it this way,, you have a car with an engine, under a hood,, the engine heats up, way hotter then the inside of a pc case,, the car has fresh air coming in from the outside in,, heat still rises but fresh air always comes from the outside in. you want the rad to have the coldest freshest air possible for maximum cooling,, your not blowing this hot air from the rad into the case onto heatsinks,, because the cold water is inside the blocks keeping your overclocked hardware cool.
     
  10. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Just to be clear then, you are suggesting I have the fans on top, blowing down into the case then, correct?

    Items not on water cooling, such as my GPU, will then heat up instead. My overall case temperature will rise.


    How drastic is the change in degrees? I don't see it being more than 3 degrees switching to that way.

    EDIT: Put the motherboard back in, very slowly. It weighs way more, but didn't have too many troubles. Tomorrow is the big day!!

    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Mar 6, 2010
  11. oily_17

    oily_17

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    I have a P120.3 cooling my i7 and the air leaving the RAD is not even really warm, so as you say it may not affect overall temps too much.

    If you are going to worry about every last degree in temp then remove the RAD from the case altogether.
     
  12. steelkane

    steelkane New Member

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    the fans can be turned around at the bottom,, air will be pulled down
    also heat will never rise back out through the fans that have a down air flow
    heat will find the easiest way out
     
  13. MT Alex

    MT Alex

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    Nice to see a fellow Montanan on TPU!

    It looks like you're off to a great start, I wouldn't change anything. If you are really worried about your motherboard, you could leak test your system like I did:
    [​IMG]

    Seriously, though, If you can do simple things like change a compressor fitting or minor plumbing, there is nothing to worry about with water cooling. One thing, use teflon tape on your fittings. Not many people talk about it, but it works for sure. That's why plumbers use the stuff.

    Also, a paper clip works just fine for jumping your PSU. Nothing at all to worry about, just don't put it in your mouth. And don't use any stupid dye in your loop like I have in my pic. I got rid of that junk before I installed my motherboard.
     
  14. oily_17

    oily_17

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    You dont use any tape on BSPP (G) fittings, you only need tape for BSPT (R) fittings.

    Your water cooling fittings will be G1/4" type fittings and probably use a rubber ring to complete sealing.
    If you use tape with these fittings, especially on acrylic, you run the risk of cracking it when tightening it.

    EDIT:BSPP fittings have straight threads and BSPT have tapered threads.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_standard_pipe_thread
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2010
  15. Thrackan

    Thrackan

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    Your car doesn't have the rad on top, plus it travels at quite the speeds. I hope your case doesn't, or you have real good wireless keyboards and mice :D

    Ah well, I'd need to have a WC loop again to find out what works best, and I don't.
     
  16. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Thanks for the comments!


    Finally got everything wired with the help of my dad. I put water in it, and finally got it bled!! I can't imagine doing that with a T-LINE!!!

    Anyway, I am gonna have it run for some hours now. I don't feel anything wet so far, and finally got it bled. I hope it stays this way!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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  17. Thrackan

    Thrackan

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    Put some paper in your case, you'll see the smallest drops if it leaks :)
     
    Ejjman1 says thanks.
  18. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Ok, will do!


    If anyone knows where I can get a G1/2" thread 1/2" OD Barb, that'd be nice. I want the fillport to go to the top of my Res, but the hole is huge.

    In fact, it might even be a G3/4" because my 3/4 OD tubing can fit through it...Hm...

    EDIT: a side note, I might have no idea what I'm talking about up there. :D
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2010
  19. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Up and running!


    Idling at 27-30C, Load at 40C!

    That is an improvement of 10C and 30C, respectively!
     
  20. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    Great to see you up and running. Taking your time and getting advice along the way really pays off with water cooling the first time. Congratulations on a successful project!

    Oh, and I'm guessing you like the rad?:D
     
  21. Ejjman1 New Member

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    Ya. It was a little beat up, but I think it'll work great!


    Now, time to read guides to OC'ing.. :roll:
     
  22. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    YHPM
     
  23. Ejjman1 New Member

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    All solved :cool:


    Ah, this is so cool!

    [​IMG]
     

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