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First Water Loop Help

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Zaspera, Jul 21, 2012.

  1. Zaspera New Member

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    I'm looking to do a custom loop for the first time. I'll be running a 2500k. I want to add my GTX680 to the loop as well.

    1) Will 240mm rad be enough for cpu and gpu on the same loop?
    2) What kind of waterblock do I want to look for nickel, copper, acetal, etc)?
    3) Distilled water or UV coolant?
    4) Do I want the rad as exhaust on the top of the case or intake on the top of the case?

    I'll have more questions after I find answers to those.

    *I'm nervous as hell :ohwell:*
  2. radrok

    radrok

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    1) It can and it can't, let me explain: depends on the GPU and CPU in question and size doesn't tell all the story about radiators, you have to mention the thickness too. AVOID ALUMINUM in your loop.

    2) Copper, Nickel and Brass are all fine together in the same loop, acetal(POM) is not a metal and it is not used to transfer heat but just to make tops for waterblocks/pump etc.

    3) I am against coloured coolant but if you want it just buy some good quality high performance or non conductive premixed like Koolance.
    You could also use demineralized water with a silver kill coil or biocide, you don't need an anti corrosion unless you have Aluminum in contact with either Copper/Brass/Nickel.

    4) It doesn't make that much of a difference but seeing that the radiator will be on top of the case follow the air natural path, eg: exhausting.
    Zaspera says thanks.
  3. 20mmrain

    20mmrain

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    1) Will 240mm rad be enough for cpu and gpu on the same loop?
    TO get better temps then Air cooled.... No a 240mm rad will not be enough. You will want at least a 360 Rad if possible for best results.However a 240mm x 2 setup or a 480mm would work as well. I would say a single 240mm rad would work but it would not give you much better temps than if you were air cooled.
    2) What kind of waterblock do I want to look for nickel, copper, acetal, etc)?
    Nickel or copper is fine.... however Nickel needs more maintenance In my experience it gets tarnished quicker. But either will be fine.... Nickel looks a little nicer although copper can look nice if you do it right as well.I would also suggest using all the same type of metal in your loop don't mix and match if you can help it. But if it is unavoidable.... it's not like you will break your loop or anything like that. It could possibly cause some issues. But only possibly.
    3) Distilled water or UV coolant?
    I have had the best results with Just Distilled water. It's easier to just run to the store and by some if you run out too. However it requires something to prevent algae growth in your loop. Remember to get some. UV coolant gives you decent cooling too.... however it has been known to possible cause loop clog from time to time. It also tarnishes your metal in some instances. Both coolants are acceptable just remember to do your research.
    4)Do I want the rad as exhaust on the top of the case or intake on the top of the case?
    In a perfect scenario you want the rad to be mounted at the front of the case as an intake and not interrupt the natural air flow of your case "Front to back". But we all know that is not always possible. Experimenting with fan direction once you have your loop set up is your best bet. For example in my case... I am running a 240mm rad mounted on the bottom and a 360mm rad mounted on the top. Both of my rads are setup to be intakes directly from the outside and I use the exhaust fan out the back. My setup worked best with positive air pressure. Yours may not.

    The best advice I can give is do your research..... and then once setup experiment a little bit. The more you do that.... the better chance you will find the best results for your build. I also would like to add.... that while I talked about tarnishing and corrosive issues in your loop. You should not really have to worry about it too much as long as you do your up keep and maintenance with your loop. I have never had any of these issue happen to me in any of my loops and I have used most of the materials that you have listed above.
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2012
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  4. Zaspera New Member

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    Thanks for the quick answers guys. I'm filling my cart right now at FrozenCPU. I'll update this thread to see what else I need shortly.

    The GPU block I like is for a reference 680. Is PNY VCGGTX680XPB GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5... a reference card? I never really got what that meant.

    Also, what is the difference between compression fittings and barbs?
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2012
  5. INSTG8R

    INSTG8R

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    Yeah looks like reference to me. Reference Card is the "standard" design/layout set out by the Manufacture.
  6. radrok

    radrok

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    I don't know prices for US but isn't that overpriced? I mean looking on that Newegg site you can get a 680 Lightning cheaper which is better on any level compared to that PNY one.
  7. Zaspera New Member

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    What determines this? I know how to build a computer etc but I don't know small things like that. Is this in terms of fans/cooling or do some manufacturers move pieces around on their cards?


    @radrok
    I got this 680 from a friend who used it for less than a month at stock speeds for $350. I just pulled the trigger on it due to it's price. I didn't look at other cards. Since I planned on watercooling this one, I figured the other cards' cooling options etc just didn't matter.
  8. radrok

    radrok

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    Components location on the PCB like GPU VRMs, Memory VRMs, Memory, even display output arrangement.
    Zaspera says thanks.
  9. Zaspera New Member

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    Never knew that. Thank you. Is there an easy way to figure this out so I know for future purchases?
  10. radrok

    radrok

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    Yes, take a look at reviews around where reviewers actually take off the GPU cooling solution and show you the bare PCB so you can take the picture and compare it to a reference PCB.

    W1zzard does this with every GPU he reviews so you can easily see what's onboard :)

    That GPU is very likely to be reference, you should be fine.

    EDIT:

    Yes that is reference

    pic taken from W1z's GTX 680 reference review
    [​IMG]

    If you take a look at the backside of the PCB on the newegg picture it's identical.
  11. MT Alex

    MT Alex

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    Compression fittings have a sleeve that slides over the tubing and screws into a barb. They are mainly for looks, don't waste the money unless that's what you are after.

    Decide what kind of fans/how much noise you want your loop to make before selecting a rad, as they are made for one type of fan or the other, fast or slow.

    Also, is all of this going into your Haf X? Google images of watercooled cases like your own for the best ideas. The Haf isn't great for multiple rads.
  12. Zaspera New Member

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    [​IMG]

    That is what I have picked out so far based on reviews and what I liked. Both blocks seem to be copper. I have 20ft of tubing in the card. I have no clue how much I need. Should I get a cutter? As to the case, this is for a brand new build that isn't finalized. I looked up cases that can support 360mm without modding and came across the HAF X and the Switch 810. Since I like change, it looks like I'm going with the Switch 810 at this point in time.

    Can someone help me pick out barbs please? Do I need/want any angled barbs or anything? What fans are best for cooling radiators? I don't mind a bit of noise, but I don't want my desk to be a runway for a jet engine or anything.

    edit: I picked out the radiator based on reviews and I assume thicker is better. I don't know how good that pump is or what to look for in pumps. All I know is I need it to be a pump/res bay combo. I love the way it looks. I see people have tube reservoirs and I think those are the ugliest things ever.
  13. MT Alex

    MT Alex

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    The GTX rad is made for super high speed fans, just so you know. Also, there are some really nice looking HAF X cases with a 360 rad mounted in the top.

    There's no pump on your list, and as far as barbs go, they make bright chrome, or nice shiny black, so it's up to you. I prefer the barbs with multiple ridges as opposed to the single large ring.
  14. INSTG8R

    INSTG8R

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    I think that looks like a pretty good list. 20ft of tubing may be a bit overkill tho.
  15. radrok

    radrok

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    That radiator you picked has a high FPI and you'll need high speed high CFM fans to push air through it, you should't pick anything less than 1850 Gentle Typhoons if you want to go with that radiator.

    That is only a bay reservoir, you will need to buy a separate pump for it and it is compatible with any D5 design ( Koolance PMP450, Swiftech MCP655, Alphacool VPP655, Laing D5).
    The D5 itself is a very good high flow pump.

    For barbs I don't know which are good, I always used compressions.
  16. Zaspera New Member

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    I've seen some nice HAF X rads too. I jut like change so I want a new case. I thought the res had a built-in pump. :ohwell:

    @radrock
    The res was in the res/pump combo section. What's that thing in the res if it isn't a pump? Bah, I'm confused
    edit: "Note: Fittings and Pump are NOT included and required for use!"
    OHHHHHHHHHHHH
    edit: I'll need 8 barbs, correct? I really have no clue what I'm doing. Thanks for all the help guys.
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2012
  17. radrok

    radrok

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  18. Zaspera New Member

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    Now I have 3 choices for pumps that come pre-installed.

    Alphacool VPP655 Variable Pump - Included
    Swiftech MCP655-B - Included
    Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed ($15.00)

    Have any of you personally used any of these pumps?
  19. radrok

    radrok

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    They are the same pumps, just pick one of the variable speed.

    On a side note, can I suggest you a DDC pump instead of D5? They are more compact and have more head pressure which is better for WC loops.
  20. Zaspera New Member

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    I'm just trying to make this as easy as possible which is why I was looking at pre-installed pumps. How easy/hard are they to install? If they're easy, I'll grab a DDC pump.
  21. MT Alex

    MT Alex

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    Agreed. The MCP35X is the new power house.

    I think before you get too excited about putting things in your cart you should slow down a touch and do an hour or so of research. Don't worry so much about components, we can help with that, just decide on how you are going to mount all your things in your case, any weird angles you may encounter, that kind of stuff, so you can order the right stuff and not have to wait a few days for a 45 or 90 degree fitting to arrive. If not, throw a couple of angle fittings in your cart, too, they are pretty handy.
    cadaveca says thanks.
  22. radrok

    radrok

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    I have one question for you Alex, is the MCP35X using the same design as the standard DDC 18W?

    Aquatuning hasn't imported them to Europe so I still use Koolance PMP400s and I hope they will one day.
  23. Zaspera New Member

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    Well my problem is I don't like to order single parts here and there. I like to order all my parts at once, get some big boxes from USPS, and start building. I don't have the case yet so don't know what kind of angles I'll encounter etc. I can throw some in there though. Are any angles used more than others?
  24. MT Alex

    MT Alex

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    The design is a touch different, most notably the PWM and a different motor, but it has the same footprint as the DDC. I often wonder about using a bay res with one, though, because the top it comes with helps with head.
  25. Zaspera New Member

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    For 7/16 x 5/8 tubing, I'm going to want 1/2" barb fittings, correct?

    The XSPC rx360 extreme comes with compression fittings. Are these standalone fittings or do they just go over the barbs (that's what it looks like to me)?

    With the RX360 radiator, it says 8 fins/inch. What is a good rpm on rad fans for it? 1650?
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2012

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