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Help for a watercooling noob plz

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Krony, Jan 14, 2011.

  1. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    First watercooling build

    Hi, first time at watercooling so i don't know much at all, have read some guides and i will give u some system details and what items i have been looking at.

    Antec 1200
    Antec 850w truepower quattro
    Asus Sabertooth X58
    i7 950 @ 4.2GHz
    Evga GTX 580 SC @ 890|1780|2100 (would like to try get this upto 950ish)

    I was looking for an internal loop if it's possible in my case and to cool the CPU and GPU pretty quietly, also is it really needed to watercool the board too ?
    These are some items i was looking at, not sure if they all go togeather and i am pretty lost on what fittings i would need.

    CPU Block: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=10477&cat=1203&page=1
    GPU Block: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=12685&cat=1208&page=1
    Pump: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3179&cat=1191&page=1
    Radiators: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=7874&cat=1220&page=1 x2
    Reservoir: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5226&cat=1216&page=1

    Thx in advance

    Edit: Changed the blocks for EK ones as advised in a few posts
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2011
  2. Chewers

    Chewers New Member

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    Best parts for LCS would be EK.
    Krony says thanks.
  3. theoneandonlymrk

    theoneandonlymrk

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    :toast:all the stuff looks good, im no expert having only done the 1 wc pc but ive found that not wc the mobo on mine is severely limiting my oc as i too have a 240 rad in the front and it limits airflow greatly to the northbridge and inards and even then the air is obv hotter prev without wc rad my NB system temp was norm 30-40 degrees now its 40-50 both idle temps too so yes its worth cooling the mobo as ive got fans on mine and they are v noisey also ive a single loop with a 240 and 320 rad init adn this! is prob adequate alone for the sys ive got tobe fairly silent ish most of the
    time sys as listed happy to help:toast: welcome to club (in advance)
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  4. theoneandonlymrk

    theoneandonlymrk

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    id also very much recomend a mcubed Tballancer big ng controller to run pumps fans etc as its in OS settable(tho sometimes annoying) and runs everything as you set it and def quieter.
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  5. jellyrole

    jellyrole

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    Krony says thanks.
  6. Inioch

    Inioch New Member

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    The Heatkillers are very good blocks and especially the one you picked. You can find reviews and a lot of other info here.
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  7. mm67

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    EK Supreme HF is about same price at that shop, it performs better and comes with a universal backplate for all current Intel/AMD sockets.
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  8. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Thx for all the replies, i'll swop the blocks for HK ones as advised, main issue now is picking all the fixings

    I have a Zalman fan controller and i was considering using this on the rad fans and pump.
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2011
  9. theoneandonlymrk

    theoneandonlymrk

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    defo not good enough for the pumps it will blow due to the current drawn it would be ok for the fans but you then have to be sure to set the fan speed enough so as not to cook your pc i did similar at first but my recomendation stands a tballancer is the best thing to controll pumps and fans
  10. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Yea i see the pump is 18w, also i see alot of ppl are using 2000+ rpm fans on their rads, surely u don't need to run them at thoes speeds for decent cooling ?, seems a bit pointless to run a quiet watercooling setup and have fans screaming at 2000rpm lol.
  11. Bo$$

    Bo$$ Lab Extraordinaire

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    slower fans = slightly higher temps, you gotta get a balance, use better fans to get more airflow at a lower noise
  12. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    I might go for the 360 rad if i can fit it in my case, should be able to run it quieter with the same cooling.
  13. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Ok bit of an update, no way i can get a 360 rad in my case and i am not sure a single 240 is gonna produce the results i am looking for with cooling both the CPU and GPU, here is 2 bad drawings (was never anygood at this :p) option 1 is full internal using a 240 at the back and a 120 at the top, option 2 is an external 240 on the back and a 240 internal at the top, with any method it's gonna be costomising with brackets and stuff to get them to fit, just asking for some comments really as to which u would choose.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Also i was looking at running this setup in the following loop:

    Res/pump/top rad/cpu/back rad/gpu


    Any comments would be usefull thx.
  14. mm67

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    I don't have that case so I don't know for sure but wouldn't it be possible to use 200 mm rad at top and a 240 standing up in front bays. That way you could keep everything internal and have plenty of rad surface.
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  15. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    It might be possible, also it might be possible to add a 360 in the front but i would have to remove the 3 HDD bays and it would reduce the air flow in the case as the 3 front 120mm fans would be gone. I would also have to find another place to mount my vertex and samsung f1 drives.
  16. mm67

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    280 rad has about same amount of cooling surface as a 360 but it's bit shorter. I have a 280 standing up in front bays and it takes 8 bays, 360 probably takes 9.
  17. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    The 360 will actually take up a bit of the 10th bay also, if i used a 240 inside the back, i could use another 240 in the front which will take up 7 bays which would leave me 5 so i could keep one of my triple HDD cages with the fan and still have room for a fan controller and a DVD.
  18. mm67

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    That sounds like a plan. Should work nice if you use both rads as intake and use top fan as exhaust.
  19. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Updated parts list in first post using a different supplier that appears to have everything in stock atm, some small changes but i think it should all work together.
  20. cdawall where the hell are my stars

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    some AF base
    make sure you get a top for the 355 otherwise you will be trying to figure out 3/8" vs 1/2" tubing.

    this is mine this is the 3rd loop i have set up

    [​IMG]

    my first ones were very messy plan out how you are going to put the loop together otherwise it wont look pretty...
  21. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    What do u mean "top" ? i was gonna use 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD tubing
    Urs looks nice btw.

    Edit: I see now, i could use this one as a res and lose my other res i guess ?
    http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5226&cat=1216&page=1
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2011
  22. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    Subbed...Would like to see how your setup is once it's done because I have the same case.
  23. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Hope it goes to plan :p
    The CPU block and the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850's i can't find in stock atm, other than that i am ready to give it a go :)
  24. cdawall where the hell are my stars

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    yes a top like that they help the DDC perform better as well. other thing to look into i would order a couple of 90 degree fittings as well bitspower makes some nice ones but they saved my ass in this build a couple of times.
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  25. Krony

    Krony New Member

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    Will do, this is the rad layout i am looking at now.

    [​IMG]

    I might lift the front rad up 3 bays to put the triple HDD cage with a fan at the bottom yet, and the rear rad i still need to make some more measurements as it will clear the mobo heatsinks but not sure it wont foul the CPU block, might have to either go for the RS instead of the RX on the back as its thinner or mount it external with 2 fans inside and 2 fans outside.
    Edit: Or mount it inside on the chassis with 2 fans internal and 2 fans external.
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2011

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